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Thread: Tutorials And Info On Rs125

  1. #16
    apriliaforum expert AndyS_RS's Avatar
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    Front brake pads

    Here is the same stuff but for the front. I didn't actually intend to change my pads yet but while I had the tools and camera out I decided to go through the motions.

    First thing to do is remove the e-clip


    And cover


    Pull the pin out


    Note the method used to keep the pads centered is different than the one at the rear


    Pull the pads out


    Yes they are probably illegal but I want to get my money's worth out of parts, no sense in throwing them away yet. I check them every other time I wash the bike so I'll know when they need doing.


    Once again Minimum thickness is stamped on the disc


    Mines well within limits


    At this point you need to slacken the resevoir cap and push all 4 pistons back in before you can fit your new pads. Once they're fitted send the pin through


    Re-fit the e-clip and cover. Tigthen the resevoir cap and its JC.

  2. #17
    apriliaforum expert AndyS_RS's Avatar
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    Wiring Diagrams And Electrical Info

    Wiring diagram for 123 engined bike



    Here is the wire codes and components list to go with above





    Here is a diagram for latter shape bikes with 122 engine and sidestand switch



    And the codes and component list for above diagram



    Here are some detailed diagrams for new shape bike with 122 critical systems











    The following diagrams apply to both old and new bikes






  3. #18
    apriliaforum expert Brain_stew87's Avatar
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    Painting Front Caliper

    Painting Front Caliper PART 1

    Before you start to take the calliper off the bike make sure you hav plenty of 'DOT4 Break Fluid'


    Tools

    Small Flat End Screwdriver
    5mm Allen Key
    10&11mm Spanner

    Other Bits

    Nitromors - or any other paint stripper
    Small container
    paint brush
    Rubber Gloves
    Paint colour of your choice
    Clear Laquer

    On Bleeding the Break Line see HERE How To's Number 5 - Fitting Braided Lines written by AndyS_RS.

    with the break line now bled the caliper can now be removed from the bike, along with the break cable, some find it easier to losen the 4 allen key bolts and Break Line before the calliper is removed.

    now the calliper has been removed from the bike with the Break Line(break line can be left on the bike tho)


    With the 10mm spanner remove the bleed nipple, becareful when removing the bleed nipple as there is a small ball bearing DONT LOSE IT. With the Bleed Nipple Cover i placed the small ball bearing init and push'd it on over the end of teh bleed nipple show bellow.




    Removing Font Break Pads See HERE Written by
    AndyS_RS

    Now the Pads hav been removed we can remove the 4 Allen Key Bolts, If you did not loosen them before the calliper was removed from the forks you will need to hold it in a vice as these bolts may be seized in due to them being steel and calliper being alloy.

    With them all lose remove the 4 bolts, when taking the calliper apart becareful not to lose the small o-ring washer(this will need replacing when putting back together)


    Now comes the fun part stripping the paint off the calliper.

    I have gone for nitormors.


    With some nitromors in a small pot using the paintbrush dab the nitromors onto the calliper after a few minutes the paint should start to bubble.

    The paint on the image bellow did not bubble as it was fresh paint yesterday and has'nt hardened yet.


    Keep dabbing nitromors onto the caliper
    untill all the paint looks loose, you can either use a old rag or a compressor to wipe/blow the lose parts of paint off. TRY NOT TO GET NITROMORS ON YOUR SKIN IT BURNS.

    Now the caliper is nice clean of all the old paint, let to dry for 5mins and wipe over again.


    The caliper is ready for painting.

    Choose your paint, i hav gone for a gloss black you can get small cans from halfords. you can either use an undercoat(best option) or spray a very light coat of paint. let it dry untill touch dry or place infront of a heater for 20mins or so.

    1st coat(undercoat)


    Now the 1st coat/undercoat has been done and dried you can goahead with the second coat of paint, leave around 30-40mins before doing thurther coats

    2nd Coat



    Mark Zuckerberg
    "With just a little bit of capital, a company can grow to hundreds of thousands of users,"
    Quote Originally Posted by Cheeseweasel View Post
    It seems to me that your upset and frustrated at something, if you wanted a cuddle and reasurrance then go speak with mummy, after all your here little super trooper.
    Now that is fucking amuzment


  4. #19
    apriliaforum expert Brain_stew87's Avatar
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    Painting Front Caliper PART 2

    Painting Front Caliper PART 2

    In part 1 we left the paint to dry with its 2nd coat of paint, a thurther 2 coats of paint were applied and 3 coats of clear laquer. to speed up the drying process the caliper was places infront of a heater.

    This is what they looked liek after a couple of coats of laquer


    Now the caliper can be put back together. as the paint only has a hard outta shell and will take a few weeks to harden fully its a good idea to lay a soft cloth under it for the next section of work


    now its time to put the caliper back as one piece, remember that o-ring well here is were the replacment comes in, its recomended its replaced each time. place the o-ring into the small indent shown below


    Put both parts of the caliper together trying not to nock the o-ring out of place, its also a good idea to put copper grease on the bolts so they dont seize in.


    with the bolts back in and the breaks put back it its tim to put the bleed nipple back in and attach the caliper back to the bike. remember to put the small ball bearing back in before putting the bleed nipple on.



    now the caliper is back on the bike its time to put the break fluid backin, just follow the remaining steps of AndyS_RS tutorial
    HERE.

    A tutorial for the rear caliper will follow soon, If you hav any questions or if you belive i hav missed something out message me, ill be happy to help


    Mark Zuckerberg
    "With just a little bit of capital, a company can grow to hundreds of thousands of users,"
    Quote Originally Posted by Cheeseweasel View Post
    It seems to me that your upset and frustrated at something, if you wanted a cuddle and reasurrance then go speak with mummy, after all your here little super trooper.
    Now that is fucking amuzment


  5. #20
    apriliaforum expert AndyS_RS's Avatar
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    Top End Rebuild With Pics

    TOP END REBUILD WITH PICS



    Tools:

    3mm allen key - fairings
    4mm allen key - fairings
    5mm allen key
    6mm allen key
    6/7mm socket/combination spanner - to tighten jubilee clip
    8mm combination spanner and socket
    10mm combination spanner and socket
    11mm ring spanner (cranked)
    13mm ring spanner/socket
    Pair of dogs. aka footprints, big pliers, grips
    Standard pliers
    Needle nose pliers
    A squirty oil can or some similar dispenser
    Mole grips - exhaust springs
    Spark plug socket
    Flat head screwdriver
    Phillips/posidrive screwdriver

    Before you can begin the job, there are several other preliminary operations to perform.

    Remove the fairings and tank, I have a fuel filter inline for easy disconnecting


    Remove the exhaust

    Remove the air box and carb


    I tape the oil line up so its kept out of the way and so that no oil escapes


    Remove powervalve

    Drain the coolant. With the resevoir cap removed, you can undo the drain bolt as pictured below with a 6mm allen key


    Give everything a good clean and remove the top brace



    The coolant hose needs removing, use the pliers as shown, but with the plug removed so they can be held horizontally. You will need to replace this clip with a jubilee clip


    Seal up the inlet with a rag, and use the 11mm ring spanner as detailed to crack the rear nuts loose, only crack them loose


    The front nuts are accesible as shown, a cranked spanner is essential, crack these loose too, before working round each nut in turn until there is no pressure exerted by them on the cylinder


    With all nuts fully loose you can remove them. Before removing the cylinder I like to have the piston at BDC so it can drop forward. Removing the flywheel cover gives you someway of turning the crank.


    Here is my cylinder, I don't bother removing the reeds and manifold or exhaust manifold (whats the point?) Clean it up exteriorly though and get all the carbon out of the exhaust port and manifold


    Turning our attention to the bottom end there is still work to be done here


    Using a CLEAN rag under the piston has advantages

    1) It steady's the piston
    2) prevents foreign matter (and circlips) falling into the crank case



    Using the needle nose pliers (and very often a thin screwdriver) remove one circlip and proceed to remove the gudgeon pin. If it is tight, tap it while holding against the force


    Here is my removed piston, put the gudgeon pin and clip somewhere safe (in the piston is good)

  6. #21
    apriliaforum expert AndyS_RS's Avatar
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    All traces of the old gasket need removing from the crank cases, I used a stanley knife at a shallow angle to get underneath the gasket

    I have now removed the water jacket by removing the 4 5mm allen bolts from the corners of the cylinder. The 5 13mm head bolts can now be removed, gradually and in sequence


    Here is a view of the inside of my cylinder. You can see the honing marks, and the blackened ring at the top is showing how far up the bore the rings come


    Get everything as clean as possible


    As with the crank cases, all traces of base gasket need removing from the base of the cylinder.


    You can now fit the new base gasket

    And the little end bearing, oil this


    Going back to the piston
    The rings need fitting, oil up the whole top of the piston and the rings, and gingerly slip the rings over the piston. With the lower ring DO NOT attempt to get it straight into the lower groove, go for the upper groove, then slip it down to the lower.
    I have also fitted the left side circlip now

    The piston must be free of dirt (mine has some specs on which where later removed)


    Now refit the piston to the conrod, with the arrow pointing toward the exhaust port, the best way to deal with the circlip is to take your time and do it smoothly to avoid 'ping'.

    The piston once fitted, can be re-oiled all over and the bore also should be lightly oiled. Align the rings up with their pins in the piston to prevent them rotating.
    Carefully bring the cylinder down onto the piston, making sure the rings do not snag, if you feel it isn't going well, re-align the rings and try again. It is also crucial to keep the centres of the piston and bore in line.

    Once fitted




    You can now tighten the cylinder down, tightening the nuts in a diagonal fashion, and in gradual steps.

    With the new O-ring fitted for the head insert tighten this down too, oce again following a diagonal sequence.

    Fit the new o-rings for the water jacket, both in the jacket itself and on the head round the plug hole.

    Re-assembly is the reverse of dissasembly

    And this, is the powervalve stem seal, which goes inside the housing, along with that other o-ring you cant figure out
    Last edited by AndyS_RS; 03-23-2007 at 04:42 PM.

  7. #22
    apriliaforum expert priller's Avatar
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    Last edited by priller; 03-31-2007 at 09:07 AM.

    Kickstart Motorcycles | Peter Knight | jap4performance | URL cloaking

    01 RS125, JL SS&CF single, 34mm carb, PiperX panel filter, carbon reeds,cdi mod,SS braided hoses, ebc HH pads, 16/39 gearing

  8. #23
    apriliaforum expert samRS's Avatar
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    Top Yoke Removal:

    This can be used for replacing your top yoke with another one, or for if you want to take it off and polish it/ re-paint it. Its a 5-10 minute job.

    1)Remove the front brake fluid reservoir bolt, on mine this in an 8mm bolt, as circled below in red. And place the reservoir to the side out of the way.


    2)Remove the two handlebar bolts with an 8mm allen key, as circled in red below. Place both of the handlebars out of the way.


    3)Remove the two pinch bolts on the top yoke with a 6mm allen key, as circled in red in the picture below.


    4)Now using a cross head screw driver remove the two small screws holding the lower part of the ignition barrel on. The screw to remove is circled in red. at this stage ignore the green circle.


    5)Now using what i believe is a 30mm socket or a big spanner remove the top bolt on the yoke, as circled below in red.


    6)The top yoke should now be ready for removal. Give it a good tug upwards, if this is unsuccesful a rubber mallet will have it off no problems!

    7)It is now neccesary to remove the ignition barrel if you are replacing the yoke, this step isnt neccesary if you are only polishing it. This is held on with one allen head bolt, as pictured below in the red circle, and one security bolt, pictured above in the green circle, which will need a slot grinded into it so you can remove it with a screwdriver.


    7)Once you have removed the two bolts then you can put the ignition barrel on the new yoke. You may want to use a normal allen head bolt instead of the now useless security bolt. And reverse all the steps above.

    Sam

    My Rides:
    2001 RS125 | 1989 VFR400
    ITS PEANUT BUTTER JELLY TIME!

    You got to have a dream, If you don't have a dream, How you gonna have a dream come true?

    Visit SportsBikesUK.com

  9. #24
    apriliaforum expert Vale's Avatar
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    For 34mm carb people this is a better diagramm with lables
    http://www.smellofdeath.com/lloydy/d..._VHSA_VHSB.htm

  10. #25
    apriliaforum expert V6jules's Avatar
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    you can replace those clips on the coolant hoses etc without having to resort to using jubilee clips by using a pair of pliers and a small allen key like so

    Modifications; 34mm carb, Foam filter, Carbon reeds, 16-40 Renthal sprockets and Gold O-ring chain, Dominator twin Headlight, Mini alloy indicators, Single seat alloy tail fairing, Shotgun rear lights, Wavey disc, Arrow exhaust (got JL but its wank so took it off) Polished stainless bolts everywhere

  11. #26
    apriliaforum expert Brain_stew87's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by V6jules View Post
    you can replace those clips on the coolant hoses etc without having to resort to using jubilee clips by using a pair of pliers and a small allen key like so

    pair of wirecutters and normal plliers and some patiance, they are fucker to put back on i've changed all my rad hose's to jubilie clips.

    i've used smaller versions of that clip on my new 2T pipe, takes a bit of time to get them on properly and tight
    Mark Zuckerberg
    "With just a little bit of capital, a company can grow to hundreds of thousands of users,"
    Quote Originally Posted by Cheeseweasel View Post
    It seems to me that your upset and frustrated at something, if you wanted a cuddle and reasurrance then go speak with mummy, after all your here little super trooper.
    Now that is fucking amuzment


  12. #27
    apriliaforum expert kd sweety's Avatar
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    i find a hose clip is a better replacement
    If i ever offend add "I am a little girl, spare my feelings" to the thread to save any tears and red/yellow cards...

    lol! funny guy

    Quote Originally Posted by jameskrs50 View Post
    if u want a harley, buy a harley, dont buy a Chingwung Buttplug 200.

  13. #28
    apriliaforum expert Brain_stew87's Avatar
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    I Will be adding to this post O-Ring Size's And possibly all bolt size's required for the engine



    Mark Zuckerberg
    "With just a little bit of capital, a company can grow to hundreds of thousands of users,"
    Quote Originally Posted by Cheeseweasel View Post
    It seems to me that your upset and frustrated at something, if you wanted a cuddle and reasurrance then go speak with mummy, after all your here little super trooper.
    Now that is fucking amuzment


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