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Thread: Disassembling Stock Connectors

  1. #46
    apriliaforum expert bikpaintr's Avatar
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    I use a standard fluxless solder as I have a large quantity of flux on hand; others use a flux core solder. You will need to clean the wires at the crimp to get the solder to penetrate. I apply flux, heat until it bubbles & flush with contact cleaner. Do this a couple times, reapply the flux & the solder should penetrate completely through the wires.
    John B.
    02 Ash Black w/Staintunes, PC3 w/custom map, Evo Filter, Mille Air Boot, derestricted air box, Heli-Bars, Wilbers shock, new rectifier, Scottoiler, heated grips, T'meister, c/f frt. fender & hugger.

  2. #47
    apriliaforum Member federal5186's Avatar
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    Thanks what would you recommened cleaning the crimp/wire with alitlle simple green maybe?

  3. #48
    apriliaforum expert bikpaintr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by federal5186 View Post
    Thanks what would you recommened cleaning the crimp/wire with alitlle simple green maybe?
    No, Simple Green is corrosive & needs to be rinsed with water. Use a fast evaporating contact cleaner. Napa has plenty of contact cleaners on the shelf.
    John B.
    02 Ash Black w/Staintunes, PC3 w/custom map, Evo Filter, Mille Air Boot, derestricted air box, Heli-Bars, Wilbers shock, new rectifier, Scottoiler, heated grips, T'meister, c/f frt. fender & hugger.

  4. #49
    apriliaforum Member federal5186's Avatar
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    I just ask all of the stupis questions for the benefit of everyone else...

  5. #50
    apriliaforum expert bikpaintr's Avatar
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    I don't consider your questions stupid so don't worry about it. It's better to ask before you screw something up then to find out after the fact.
    John B.
    02 Ash Black w/Staintunes, PC3 w/custom map, Evo Filter, Mille Air Boot, derestricted air box, Heli-Bars, Wilbers shock, new rectifier, Scottoiler, heated grips, T'meister, c/f frt. fender & hugger.

  6. #51
    apriliaforum Member federal5186's Avatar
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    thaks excuse my spelling im at work on my car computer

  7. #52
    apriliaforum prov-nov
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    White connector burnt-Question

    I was going to solder my connectors yesterday and found the white connector on the rectifier to be burnt-The bike still ran, but was having low charging volts at idle-12.9-13V with the Borella rectifier.

    I soldered the brown connector and installed the old rectifier and the bike started much more quickly than it ever did.

    My question is...Has anybody used the terminal spades (soldered of course) from the white connector but removed from the connector and taped up for insulation? I would like to ride my bike this week and get the connector sorted out later.

    I guess I could use the old rectifier, but am afraid of weakening the battery.

    Any feedback?

  8. #53
    apriliaforum expert bikpaintr's Avatar
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    Shouldn't be a problem although heat shrink tubing would be more durable.
    John B.
    02 Ash Black w/Staintunes, PC3 w/custom map, Evo Filter, Mille Air Boot, derestricted air box, Heli-Bars, Wilbers shock, new rectifier, Scottoiler, heated grips, T'meister, c/f frt. fender & hugger.

  9. #54
    apriliaforum expert RobC's Avatar
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    nearly - I used standard auto spade connectors when I first fitted a rectifier from John. The oem unit had been soldered, and I didn't want to cut the connectors off John's untill I knew it made a difference. It ended up like that for several thousand miles until I needed to take the panel off anyway.

  10. #55
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    Ok I will ask a stupid question then, is this procedure the same for all the connectors. I need to remove part of the connector from my headlight wires. Seems when the grips were wired in it was close to the plug on the side closer to the harness. When I cut it it didnt leave me much wire to splice together, so I figured I would remove that section, attatch the connector to the other end commign from the harness and would be good to go.

    tom

  11. #56
    apriliaforum expert bikpaintr's Avatar
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    Most of the connectors are going to be similar to the white connector as far as how the male/female spades are held in place. Just look into the connector from the front & you should be able to see a locking tab sticking up.
    John B.
    02 Ash Black w/Staintunes, PC3 w/custom map, Evo Filter, Mille Air Boot, derestricted air box, Heli-Bars, Wilbers shock, new rectifier, Scottoiler, heated grips, T'meister, c/f frt. fender & hugger.

  12. #57
    apriliaforum expert 01Futuraman's Avatar
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    I just cut the connectors out and soldered the wires together, shrink wrapped them and then wrapped them all individually in black electrical tape

    does this sound like a good idea?

    my bike would not start, got to reading about things on this forum, replaced the starter relay and the bike fired up, but then to help things out for the future I did the "mod" of cutting the connectors out and just connecting the wires directly to keep the voltage up

    my neighbor who is an engineer said he'd seen the same issue for many years in many of his bikes, that being they use wires that are too small and connectors for production and assembly but that it kills the voltage and that he'd done a similar mod to many of his bikes in the past

    you think they'd learn by now, they being all bike builders

    oh well

    do you think the cut and solder directly was a good idea?

    thanks

    BTW, the bike has ran fine since the new relay and wire mod



    Quote Originally Posted by bikpaintr View Post
    Most of the connectors are going to be similar to the white connector as far as how the male/female spades are held in place. Just look into the connector from the front & you should be able to see a locking tab sticking up.
    Mods:rectifier replacement, soldered wires, derestricted airbox, QDC replacement with metal one, capped holes on fuel plate, basically just the standard stuff we have to do to be safe and keep them running well
    Road: 01 Aprilia Futura
    Track: 05 Triumph Daytona 650
    Dirt: 06 Honda CRF230F

  13. #58
    apriliaforum Junkie Astroboy66's Avatar
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    Welcome from the other side of the pond

    Im guessing you have checked that your getting a higher reading for charging now you have done the mod?

    I had the same problem recently even though I always keep my Fut on a trickle charger.
    It seems that prior to me carrying out the mod.... like most have discovered charging is a weak spot for the Fut I swapped the solenoid for a new one with higher rating and did the mod on there by adding wires.

    Im lucky my battery seems fine but it may be worth keeping an eye on it it just in case its shot too.

    Although Fut's have a few niggles and annoyances overall the bike is a great machine and rewards you each time you ride it.
    ---------------------------------------------------
    Darkness Black , Staintune cans -H pipe - Derestricted airbox - Mille boot - MPL slave cylinder - Scotoiler - Hugger - Dual Star heated grips - Fast brain implant* slow body (owner not bike)

  14. #59
    apriliaforum expert bikpaintr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 01Futuraman View Post
    I just cut the connectors out and soldered the wires together, shrink wrapped them and then wrapped them all individually in black electrical tape

    does this sound like a good idea?

    my bike would not start, got to reading about things on this forum, replaced the starter relay and the bike fired up, but then to help things out for the future I did the "mod" of cutting the connectors out and just connecting the wires directly to keep the voltage up

    my neighbor who is an engineer said he'd seen the same issue for many years in many of his bikes, that being they use wires that are too small and connectors for production and assembly but that it kills the voltage and that he'd done a similar mod to many of his bikes in the past

    you think they'd learn by now, they being all bike builders

    oh well

    do you think the cut and solder directly was a good idea?

    thanks

    BTW, the bike has ran fine since the new relay and wire mod
    You won't see much of any gain in your charge rate because all you did was eliminate the connectors. You still have the lame stock rectifier which is the real issue on this bike, not wire size.

    To bring up your charge rate either do the real Wiring Mod which requires adding wires or replace the stock rectifier with the aftermarket unit which does not require extra wires to give a proper charge rate. Start by checking your charge rate @4k at the battery with a digital voltmeter.
    John B.
    02 Ash Black w/Staintunes, PC3 w/custom map, Evo Filter, Mille Air Boot, derestricted air box, Heli-Bars, Wilbers shock, new rectifier, Scottoiler, heated grips, T'meister, c/f frt. fender & hugger.

  15. #60
    apriliaforum prov-nov Griffer's Avatar
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    Clarification:

    Quote Originally Posted by bikpaintr View Post
    You won't see much of any gain in your charge rate because all you did was eliminate the connectors. You still have the lame stock rectifier which is the real issue on this bike, not wire size.

    To bring up your charge rate either do the real Wiring Mod which requires adding wires or replace the stock rectifier with the aftermarket unit which does not require extra wires to give a proper charge rate. Start by checking your charge rate @4k at the battery with a digital voltmeter.
    First, let me say this is a great forum the knowledge and information posted is fantastic. With that in mind I need to ask for clarification, sometimes the simplest things baffle me.

    John, from your post, I am reading that to fix this charging problem on the Futura we can either do the modification to the wiring by adding additional wires from the rectifier + side to the fusebox next to the battery and add additional wire from the - side to the - battery terminal.

    OR

    Replace the rectifier with an aftermarket and soder the connections in the white and brown connectors.
    Am I understanding this completely and correctly?

    If so, I would like to purchase an aftermarket rectifier. Where should I look?

    My connectors do get hot but have not melted yet and if the bike is not on a trickle charger it has trouble starting. Thank the gods I have not been stranded yet but its been close a few times.

    Thanks
    Griffer

    Griffer
    2004 Silver Futura, John B. Rectifier & crimps soldered, Power Commander and custom map, De-restricted airbox, Mille boot, K&N airfilter, R&G frame sliders, Taylormade exhaust and RSVR mirrors, Falco forks w/Ohlins internals, 320mm Mille brake rotors, Scott Oiler, ABM superbike kit.

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