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Thread: Carbon Canisterectomy

  1. #1
    apriliaforum Junkie rmandzij's Avatar
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    Post Carbon Canisterectomy

    My Evaporative Emission System has been dealt a crushing blow. The carbon canister and associated miles of tubing have finally been removed. This is how I did it. Of course, I do not advocate removing EPA equipment and harming your enviroment, so if you choose to do it, don't blame me.

    Here we go:
    1.) If you purchased your CN anywhere outside of the USA, stop now, you don't have this system strangling your CN.
    2.) For anyone with a US CN, turn to page 12 and 13 of your use & maintenance book (mine is a 2002 edition) and take a good look at the diagram describing the emissions system.
    3.) Remove the carbon canister number 9.
    4.) Remove purge valve number 7.
    5.) Remove the following numbered "T" and "Y" tees: 13, 25, and 27.
    6.) Remove the following numbered tubes: 8, 10, 12, 19, 24, 26, 28, 29, 31, and 32.
    7.) Remove one way valve number 30.
    8.) Remove roll-over valve number 5 and replace it with a 1/4" straight thru connector (available at your local auto parts store) so that now tube number 4 connects to one end and tube number 6 connects to the other end. Now your tank will vent to the outside without ever having to deal with a stuck roll-over valve and tank vacuum.
    9.) Take tube number 26 that you already removed and place it into the warm air inlet where tube number 24 used to go. You now have a nice and long drain line from the air box. Run this new tube down the front portion of the engine a let it drain somewhere below. You will now never have to unplug the contaminent drain line as it will now drain on its own.
    10.) Leave tube number 2 in place as is.
    11.) Plug the opening at "X" tee number 15 where tube number 12 used to go into.
    12.) Plug the opening at "T" tee number 20 where tube number 19 used to go into.
    13.) Leave electric purge valve number 11 plugged in and in place, otherwise if this is removed your EFI dash light will remain lit. This is nothing more than a sensor and will not effect how your CN runs. Plug each end of the electric purge valve is you wish.

    What is now left in place:
    1.) Rear manifold vacuum port number 17 is connected to tube number 16. Tube number 16 is connected to "X" tee number 15. "X" tee number 15 is connected to tube number 16, 34, 36, and a plug where tube number 12 used to go. Tube number 36 remains connected to your clutch. Tube number 34 remains your rear cylinder synchronization line.
    2.) Front ported vacuum port number 22 is connected to tube number 21. Tube number 21 is connected to "T" tee number 14. "T" tee number 14 is connected to tube number 21, 37, and 38. Tube number 38 is connected to "T" tee number 20. "T" tee number 20 is connected to tube number 33, 38, and a plug where tube number 19 used to go. Tube number 37 remains connected to your clutch. Tube number 33 remains your front cylinder synchronization line.

    That is it! You have now removed your evaporative emissions system. Last thing to do is synchronize your cylinders, since the vacuum characteristics have changed. I hope this was not too confusing. It really is quite simple to remove once you study the diagram. Besides having to synchronize the cylinders, no other adjustments needed and my CN has not missed a beat.

    Good Luck,
    Last edited by rmandzij; 05-27-2005 at 10:29 PM.
    2003 Silver/Black Falco

  2. #2
    apriliaforum Member
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    Weight?

    How much weight did you take off?
    Live for Today, the present is really all you have.

  3. #3
    apriliaforum expert montereyrsvr's Avatar
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    It Ain't The Weight

    Quote Originally Posted by idahoskiguy
    How much weight did you take off?
    It's all about trunk space...
    "Crystal Mountain, North Cascades & Jackson Hole in 2009"

    '98 GSXR 750
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  4. #4
    just another Aprilia fanatic amauri's Avatar
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    It's not mounted in the rear trunk area like it is on other Aprilias.
    Removing the canister only facilitates servicing the bike, no performance gains and maybe 2-3 lbs weight saving.

    Nice of you to take the time to document the procedure.
    Never accept mediocrity, always demand competence.

    Certified Aprilia Moto Service in Southern California
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  5. #5
    apriliaforum Junkie rmandzij's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by amauri
    Nice of you to take the time to document the procedure.
    Amauri, now I know why you said it was difficult to relate how you did it over this forum. It did take quite a bit of writing/directions didn't it? My reason for taking it off was exactly the reason you stated, for easy servicing of the bike. Just doing an oil change and having to remove the sump guard with that canister and all its tubing attached was a hassle. Now 4 screws and the sump guard comes off no problem! Weighing all of it, saved 4 pounds. The engine area looks cleaner without all the tubes getting in the way. Bike runs just as good without it.

    Cheers,
    2003 Silver/Black Falco

  6. #6
    apriliaforum expert QuickSilverCapo's Avatar
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    Thanks Roman......

    Ill be doing this soon...And printing your instructions!!

    Bill

  7. #7
    apriliaforum expert
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    What beats me with all manufacturers is the performance figures and wieght etc that gets quoted in the brochure is the same for all models in all countries.

    How can a bike with cats and all that emissions gumph be the same wieght and produce the same power as one with out any of it.

    I guess i will be able to report for sure soon because my mate Jo has just got a capo with cats on . Will be good to ride a standard bike again to compare .
    Exspert?? Ex = has been, spert = a drip under pressure.

  8. #8
    apriliaforum expert QuickSilverCapo's Avatar
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    Throttle Body sync

    Roman,

    What sync. tool did you use for the throttle bodies? I have a Morgan Carbtune, and Im not sure what reference point to use. The shop manual says to adjust to "0". It says to close both screws...Then adjust one until both are at 0 (in the middle) and keep the other screw fully closed. It doesnt tell you which screw to use for adjusting...Maybe it doesnt matter?
    My Carbtune doesn't have a 0 reading. Did you just adjust until both were equal?

    Thanks,
    Bill

  9. #9
    apriliaforum Junkie rmandzij's Avatar
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    Bill,
    I made a manometer unit that basically looks like this: http://www.powerchutes.com/manometer.asp I use red colored fork oil as the liquid, since if by accident it gets sucked into the throttle body it wont harm anything. You only need to measure the vacuum difference in the cylinders, no need for any exact numbers. The process once you have your manometer hooked up is easy. Start your engine and warm it up (176-212F per service manual). Close both bypass screws completely. At this point one column on your manometer will be higher than the other, non-synchronized cylinders. You will only need to open one screw about 1/2 turn with your screw driver. It does not matter which cylinder, you will need to try both to see which one will equalize your manometer columns. On mine, the front bypass screw was opened 1/2 turn to equalize. That's all there is to it. You will notice the smooth idle once you get them synchronized.

    Good Luck,
    2003 Silver/Black Falco

  10. #10
    apriliaforum expert QuickSilverCapo's Avatar
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    Thanks Roman!! I may tear into it this weekend. That ugly-ass can has gotta go!


    Ride safe,

    Bill

  11. #11
    apriliaforum Junkie RedRider's Avatar
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    Emission System Diagram?

    The canister does have to go ... but I've checked and rechecked both the pdf and hardcopy '03 Use & Maintenance book and can not locate the emissions system diagram.
    If any of you guys have the diagram file and would send it to me I sure would appraciate it. Thanks.

    Wayne

  12. #12
    apriliaforum Junkie rmandzij's Avatar
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    Wayne,
    Go here http://www.serviceaprilia.com/public...000%20caponord and download the ETV mille ABS USA 2004 service manual. Go to page 12 and 13 for the diagram and list of parts (with numbers I quote in my description on how to remove it). My 2002 manual is identical to this 2004 manual. Even the pages, 12 and 13, are the same for the "Evaporative Emissions System." I'm not sure why you don't see it in your 2003 manual?

    Good Luck,
    2003 Silver/Black Falco

  13. #13
    just another Aprilia fanatic amauri's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RedRider
    The canister does have to go ... but I've checked and rechecked both the pdf and hardcopy '03 Use & Maintenance book and can not locate the emissions system diagram.
    The emissions system diagram is on the white sticker located on the right side of the swingarm, near the frame pivot.
    All USA bikes have this sticker when delivered.
    Never accept mediocrity, always demand competence.

    Certified Aprilia Moto Service in Southern California
    Call me at 714 892-4056 for appointment

  14. #14
    apriliaforum Junkie RedRider's Avatar
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    Got it!

    Thanks Roman & Amauri. Now to have at it!

    Wayne

  15. #15
    apriliaforum expert QuickSilverCapo's Avatar
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    Roman,

    Thanks alot for the detailed instructions!! I just finished the can removal, and TB sync. Everything went smooth .
    Bike looks great without the extra crap..... And she's running smooooth after synching the throttle bodies

    Heres a few pics:





    Thanks again,

    Bill
    Attached Images Attached Images    
    Last edited by QuickSilverCapo; 06-25-2005 at 04:23 PM.

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