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Thread: EFI problems - error codes (FULL list)

  1. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by futer?
    I have had my RST for a year and 13k now. Since day 1 with ignition on, run switch off, the EFI light will flash. As soon as I turn the run switch on and the fuel pump pressurizes the system the light goes off. So I assume the EFI flashes
    because there is no fuel pressure. The bike does have the most recent map.
    Does anyone know what the settings of the EFI is? TPS, fuel mixture, there is another adjustment that a shop can do but I can't recall what it was. At least that is what Moto Intl, of Seattle says.

    Andy
    Actually the EFI light flashes because the kill switch is off. It is not generally recommend to use the kill switch to stop the bike as it can/will wear from usage leading to failure.
    Never wrestle with a pig... you get dirty and the pig enjoys it...

  2. #62
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    EFI Code

    Maybe this helps. I used to get the EFI code on my 2000 RSV, but after I followed the start procedure: Ignition on, then Engine Cut-off on, Pause for the fuel pump to charge the injector, then Starter Press. When I follow that I don't have a problem. If I skip one step the EFI indicator will come on.

  3. #63
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    Code 3?

    I am getting a code 3 on the console - the bike turns over on the button but won't keep running.

    Any ideas please ?

    Thanks,

    jon

  4. #64
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    Sorry Jon ... just spotted this, we are usually a bit quicker so it must be a public holiday around here

    Anyway ....... code 3

    To the best of my knowledge there is not one.

    I recall something in the archives that suggests a low battery, well low, and the bike struggling to start can cause all sorts of fault no.s as the ECU was starved of power.

    Anyway, it might be easier to sort the symptoms .......
    Have you got the bike running yet??
    Does it turn over OK?
    Etc Etc .......

    Rab

  5. #65
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    A new battery has cured it!

    I put a new Yuasa YTZ14S in it and it has been fine ever since.

    BTW... The battery was £50 from a Honda dealer - that sounds as if it might have been a good deal - ordered using the Honda part number.

    Thanks :-)

  6. #66
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    Great news ...... and that ties in with the theory of "low on power"
    £50 is the best price I have heard of for the YTZ that is indeed good, and handy to know

    Enjoy .... and hope to see you at a meet one day

  7. #67
    apriliaforum Member Smok3's Avatar
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    I read in this topic that errors number is 1 at the throttle position sensor,
    how this sensor are set to be 0 ...someone help me....pls

    This error appears when I start the engine the next day it was cold,engine starts and stops 2 seconds,shock does not start automatically... engine no longer jumps to the 3000 RPM at startup.... everything is in order I need to keep my gas pulled...

    I want to mention the spark plugs are new, battery is new
    and I have the Wiring Mod


    thanks

  8. #68
    apriliaforum expert deefred's Avatar
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    Code 1 is not a real fault code. You get "1" or "-1" depending of the position of the kill switch.

    You need to check the operation of the idle motor installed on the RH side of the airbox at the bottom.
    When you turn ignition to OFF you should be hearing some strange noise coming from this unit proving its alive.
    2001 RST Futura in stream Silver.
    Mods: Modified Öhlins fork from mille R, EBC 320mm brake discs, HEL front brakelines, Carbon RS 250 front fender, Wiring mod for charging. Engine related:05 map, Iridium plugs, tuneboy, derestriced intake, old mille airboot, staintunes exhaust. Lambda bung hardbrazed in the "breadbox". Öhlins mille R rear shock with 110N/mm spring and the integrated hydraulic preload adjuster. LED Voltmeter installed inside the dash for monitoring charging. Duc 999 radial m/c for brake and clutch.
    NWS hugger. Equipment: Famsa tankbag,
    CBR 600 -07 MOSFET R&R FH008EE providing stable 14.4 - 14.5 V (with my wiring mod). Daytona heated grips with mccoi pwm controller and automatic chain oiler

  9. #69
    apriliaforum Member Smok3's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by deefred View Post
    Code 1 is not a real fault code. You get "1" or "-1" depending of the position of the kill switch.

    You need to check the operation of the idle motor installed on the RH side of the airbox at the bottom.
    When you turn ignition to OFF you should be hearing some strange noise coming from this unit proving its alive.
    I read in the manual about the sensor on the airbox.....
    please tell me if you can hear the sound without having to lift the tank ,and if that problem is what to do?
    can directly repair or replace?

  10. #70
    apriliaforum expert deefred's Avatar
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    You can hear it without lifting the tank.

    Mine goes like this bzzzzzzzzz, dock, dock, dock, bzzz

    It can be the wiring or the motor failing so you need to troubleshoot.

    Here is some help for cleaning.
    http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/s...47#post1962247
    2001 RST Futura in stream Silver.
    Mods: Modified Öhlins fork from mille R, EBC 320mm brake discs, HEL front brakelines, Carbon RS 250 front fender, Wiring mod for charging. Engine related:05 map, Iridium plugs, tuneboy, derestriced intake, old mille airboot, staintunes exhaust. Lambda bung hardbrazed in the "breadbox". Öhlins mille R rear shock with 110N/mm spring and the integrated hydraulic preload adjuster. LED Voltmeter installed inside the dash for monitoring charging. Duc 999 radial m/c for brake and clutch.
    NWS hugger. Equipment: Famsa tankbag,
    CBR 600 -07 MOSFET R&R FH008EE providing stable 14.4 - 14.5 V (with my wiring mod). Daytona heated grips with mccoi pwm controller and automatic chain oiler

  11. #71
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    start fist tme seconed time it runs ruff has someone got a fix ? plues new

  12. #72
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    new battrey and plugs still the dos it ?

  13. #73
    apriliaforum Member Smok3's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by deefred View Post
    You can hear it without lifting the tank.

    Mine goes like this bzzzzzzzzz, dock, dock, dock, bzzz

    It can be the wiring or the motor failing so you need to troubleshoot.

    Here is some help for cleaning.
    http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/s...47#post1962247
    thanks for the advice ,I cleaned, I measured (I give the values in manually, it's ok) and I put it back but still not happy how it goes....I`m curious if you had problems with it after you clean ?

  14. #74
    apriliaforum newb Jroolz's Avatar
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    EFI Problems Fault Code 35

    Hi all,
    I have a problem that's driving me insane. Basically I get the EFI light flashing constantly. Ok so I have connected the diagnostic connectors and I get error code 35 on the dash. Happy Days ! the front cylinder side plug coil is busted......errm not.

    I have performed a resistance test and the coil is within tolerances. I have swapped the coils around so that I have tested 2 other coils ( which I have also tested on the multimeter ok) in its place and still I get the error message.

    I have swapped the wiring around so that the front center wire is plugged into the supposedly faulty coil and front side is in the other (I was expecting to see the fault jump to a different number indicating a wiring fault). Still I get error 35.

    I have changed the plugs to new iridium ones still get the same error.

    The bike runs perfectly no misfires etc and if you take the plugs out theres a nice colour of burn on the plugs (sort of greyish brownish not black).

    Has anyone experienced anything like this? I have heard that some problems a reset by having the ECU updated to the latest firmware ...is this such a case?

    Any advice is gratefully received at the moment I'm running around with the diag plugs connected so I dont have to stare at the flashing light its that or electricians tape over it.

  15. #75
    apriliaforum expert deefred's Avatar
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    It has turned out more than once that even coils which pass the resistance check can be faulty. With engine running disconnect the low tension lead from the coil and check that the engine does not start to run on one cylinder only. Do this for all coils.

    It can also be that you have a problem somewhere in the wiring from the ECU to the ignition coil connector which the ECU senses.
    That would explain that the code does not change despite swapping coils.
    2001 RST Futura in stream Silver.
    Mods: Modified Öhlins fork from mille R, EBC 320mm brake discs, HEL front brakelines, Carbon RS 250 front fender, Wiring mod for charging. Engine related:05 map, Iridium plugs, tuneboy, derestriced intake, old mille airboot, staintunes exhaust. Lambda bung hardbrazed in the "breadbox". Öhlins mille R rear shock with 110N/mm spring and the integrated hydraulic preload adjuster. LED Voltmeter installed inside the dash for monitoring charging. Duc 999 radial m/c for brake and clutch.
    NWS hugger. Equipment: Famsa tankbag,
    CBR 600 -07 MOSFET R&R FH008EE providing stable 14.4 - 14.5 V (with my wiring mod). Daytona heated grips with mccoi pwm controller and automatic chain oiler

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