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Thread: Rear wheel bearing.

  1. #16
    apriliaforum expert RAS's Avatar
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    And at the cost of those Koyo bearings, may as well just swap 'em out for new with every new chain.

    I opened my rear hub up pretty early on, so it came apart w/o fuss. That was the 1st time I'd touched the cush hub nut - the weight of the wrench alone was enough to unscrew that big nut, so I was pretty lucky the axle was not at all damaged.

  2. #17
    apriliaforum prov-nov
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    And what guys are you thinking about possibility of using a complete hub from other bikes with a single sided swingarm?
    Ducati, Honda VFR, Triumph?

    I saw, some Honda VFR owners have used hubs from Ducati.
    English is not my native language, so please be kind to my mistakes.

    Remember, this is an Italian bike with an Austrian motor, it isn't like the GSXR you use to own...

  3. #18
    apriliaforum expert RAS's Avatar
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    Having a working speedo/odometer would still be an issue. Would also have to transplant the brake rotor as well as caliper that would take one into some big dollars.

    Not sure why anyone would swap a Ducwaddy single sided swinger for the one already on a VFR. I think the VFR SSSarm wheel assembly doesn't need any more than everyday sockets to remove the back wheel. The Fut's, using that internal chunk of 22mm hex is also far easier than dealing with the monstrous big nut that's also fairly shallow on most Ducati sss rear wheels.

  4. #19
    apriliaforum Member Skipbarberman's Avatar
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    So stupid question.....how much of a 'wear item' is the rear bearing, and how long are they good for?

  5. #20
    apriliaforum expert RAS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skipbarberman View Post
    So stupid question.....how much of a 'wear item' is the rear bearing, and how long are they good for?
    Well, in the end, it's a wheel bearing. I've replaced them on Japanese bikes in 25k miles, never replaced them on my BMWs that saw all manner of ugly weather (one with 65k miles) and my Fut is still on my OE bearings, both front and back. Don't point pressure washers at them, and get inside now and then to clean/grease, they'll last a long, long time. There was a guy who lived out west (think it was Arizona) who had a very long daily commute. I wanna say he reported getting 70 or 80k from his 1st king bearing - iirc, his daily commute involved long stints at 80+ mph. Been a while, but I think he was well over 120k when he stopped posting.

    Even though the factory service manual makes absolutely no mention of it, the torque on the cush hub nut is absolutely critical for the life of the king bearing - to say nothing as to the ability to remove the axle easily to clean and regrease it and the needle bearings on the wheel side. The nut can't unscrew due to one of those 3 screws thru the face of the nut locking into one of the splines on the axle, but stuff inside the cush assembly will compress enough for the nut to become loose. This allows the entire assembly to wobble about inside the king bearing. That bearing has a single outer race, but 2 inner races. If the axle is allowed to moved about, it gets deformed between those 2 races. When that happens, it takes destructive force to remove the axle.

    Mine has been apart twice in 30k miles. I know that mine will come apart w/o more than a lil push on the axle. Water does get inside that eccentric somehow. We've all seen rust on the center part of the axle that does nothing as the factory saved pennies on grease - Guzzi are worse from what I read. But I had the advantage of reading horror stories from guys who just wanted to do some service and wound up needing 5lb hammers to get it all apart and then new parts to put it back together - and that was 13 or more years ago,

  6. #21
    apriliaforum Member Skipbarberman's Avatar
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    uh-oh......guess I better have a look...

    Just bought this (2001) a year ago, and haven't really ridden it more than 200 mi. Has ~25,000 on the clock and the guy hadn't done a valve clearance check since 6,000mi. I had planned to do that, just finished my 2008 RSVR.

  7. #22
    apriliaforum expert RAS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skipbarberman View Post
    uh-oh......guess I better have a look...

    Just bought this (2001) a year ago, and haven't really ridden it more than 200 mi. Has ~25,000 on the clock and the guy hadn't done a valve clearance check since 6,000mi. I had planned to do that, just finished my 2008 RSVR.
    The valves in these Rotor motors have been very stable. Combine that with the more sport tour nature of the Futura, wouldn't be a surprise to find them all in spec.

  8. #23
    apriliaforum Member Skipbarberman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RAS View Post
    The valves in these Rotor motors have been very stable. Combine that with the more sport tour nature of the Futura, wouldn't be a surprise to find them all in spec.
    Understood, and would agree. I'm all about the check, check and re-check school. I don't ride as many miles as some, but I don't like it when things fail. If I can avoid it via preventative maintenance, I tend to go that route. I need to start searching the forum and investigate. Thanks RAS

  9. #24
    apriliaforum prov-nov gubby07's Avatar
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    Ehhh...my axle has never been apart at 45k miles. I know it needs to be done, but I'm scared since the king bearing is no longer available. I guess if the axle doesn't come out easily, just reassemble from there and try to find a used bearing? Bike rolls fine now. No play in the back.

    Sent from my LG-K450 using Tapatalk
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  10. #25
    apriliaforum expert RAS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gubby07 View Post
    Ehhh...my axle has never been apart at 45k miles. I know it needs to be done, but I'm scared since the king bearing is no longer available. I guess if the axle doesn't come out easily, just reassemble from there and try to find a used bearing? Bike rolls fine now. No play in the back.

    Sent from my LG-K450 using Tapatalk
    You should at the very least, find and remove the one long screw of the 3 in that cush hub nut and then put a big torque wrench on it that nut to make sure it's at 110 ft-lbs.

    Gonna recommend this done at every rear tire change - the big clicker wrench is out of the tool chest anyway

    rick

  11. #26
    apriliaforum Junkie Hansb's Avatar
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    The sensor can be placed like this.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_20190901_170003 (1000 x 750).jpg 
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    Hans

  12. #27
    apriliaforum expert Kennibear's Avatar
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    Are the magnets set alternating poles or all the same on one side? Seems alternating poles is the logical choice.

    KB

    Sent from my E6833 using Tapatalk

  13. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by RAS View Post
    You should at the very least, find and remove the one long screw of the 3 in that cush hub nut and then put a big torque wrench on it that nut to make sure it's at 110 ft-lbs.

    Gonna recommend this done at every rear tire change - the big clicker wrench is out of the tool chest anyway

    rick
    Hi Rick,

    Any chance of a photo of the screws and nut which needs to be torqued? I have changed the rear wheel once, the whole rear axle due to a crack in the aluminium, and the rear brake disc (without removing the hub), but have never touched anything on the opposite side of the swingarm than where the rear wheel is. I once looked at the workshop manual as I would have wanted to change the cover to the unscratched one on my cracked swingarm, but it stated huge torques to some minuscule screws so I didn't want to touch anything as there was nothing to do.

  14. #29
    apriliaforum expert RAS's Avatar
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    You don't need a pict. In the center of the cush hub on the left side - opposite the wheel's big nut on the left - is another internal hex driven nut with 3 small hex cap screws. iirc, the big hex is 17mm and the small ones take a 2.5mm wrench. That assembly slides onto the left end of the axle - and that has splines to drive the wheel. 2 of those small screws are dry short and are there to fill the holes not used by the 1 longer screw. That 1 screw is inserted into an available spline and acts as a lock screw. It must come out before putting a wrench on the big nut. If the big nut moves when tightening, you'll likely find that long screw will now need another hole to thread in. Easiest thing to do is take a 2mm allen wrench and poke it ind the house until you find one where it slides in.

    You replaced the whole rear axle due to a crack in the aluminum? Did you mean to say you replaced the entire swing arm complete with eccentric already installed. You cannot remove the axle (it's steel btw) w/o taking that cush hub off.

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