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Thread: Bar end stuck

  1. #16
    apriliaforum expert RAS's Avatar
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    Not having done this, I'm only going on picts and what I've read.

    The bolt threads into a long inner piece. That bit has a roll pin (see pict from sprocket's post 5 above). The weight keys into that cross pin to keep that pin from turning when you unscrew the bolt. If you left that pin out the last time you did this, there's snow nothing to prevent the inner rod from turning.

    I've no idea what holds that inner rod in place. Judging by how easy my weights will turn, the inner rod will also turn freely.

    You might have to cut away some of the weight to get at that big nut. It seems to have threads, but I've not seen anyone say it has to be unscrewed - just puled out.

    A high speed drill on that bolt might also help break it free from the inner rod

  2. #17
    apriliaforum expert RAS's Avatar
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    found another thread. Page down to post 12 https://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/...bar+end+weight

    looks like the whole unit does unthread from the inside of the bar using the large nut that's exposed when the out weight is removed. The weight has a notch in the back end that mates up with that spring roll pin that's pressed thru the inner shaft. If that's still there, push the weight inward to try and prevent the rod from turning with the screw.

  3. #18
    apriliaforum Member StreetCred's Avatar
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    GOT 'EM OFF ! ! ! I had to fashion a tool to hold the nut that's on the inside of the handle bar. I was able to back out the screw and then tap out the rest of the assembly. Once I got them both out I took the bike for a spin. The vibration is still there, just at a different RPM range. Now, it's from 3K to 4.5K. Just puts my hand to sleep in a couple of minutes.

    Not sure what to do next. I could get some heavy bar ends or try the Bar Snake or I've read where people have used lead shot or even packed the handle bar with RTV/Silicone.
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  4. #19
    apriliaforum expert RAS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by StreetCred View Post
    GOT 'EM OFF ! ! ! I had to fashion a tool to hold the nut that's on the inside of the handle bar. I was able to back out the screw and then tap out the rest of the assembly. Once I got them both out I took the bike for a spin. The vibration is still there, just at a different RPM range. Now, it's from 3K to 4.5K. Just puts my hand to sleep in a couple of minutes.

    Not sure what to do next. I could get some heavy bar ends or try the Bar Snake or I've read where people have used lead shot or even packed the handle bar with RTV/Silicone.
    Good news, congrats.

    This nut inside the bar that you held - are you describing that 22/24mm nut that's just inward f the black bar end? That nut does not turn when I rotate my bar end weight.

    Does that part thread into the handlebar or does friction hold it?

    Yep, changing the weight will change the resonant frequency of the bar and where in the rev range that'll happen. If anything, going heavier would help more with the tingles than removing that assembly. There are aftermarket end weights or you could fill the space with lead shot - if you can find it anymore. You could also try changing the grips to a softer, thicker rubber.

    My K1100RS put my hands and my feet to sleep. Never had that issue with any of the twins I've owned - in 3 different motor configurations - 2 R bikes, my parallel twin FZ7 or the Fut.

  5. #20
    apriliaforum expert RAS's Avatar
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    I put BarkBuster hand guards on my FZ7. To this I had to remove the stock end weights. Between being lighter and only fastened at the bar end, the swap to the guards resulted in way more bar vibration. Fortunately, BarkBusters also sells weights (junks of steel) that can be added to the assembly and that brought the bikes under control again.

    It's always somethin

  6. #21
    apriliaforum expert RAS's Avatar
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    these are stainless and likely pretty heavy. With a longer bolt, you might be able to swap out the OE ends for these https://www.hvmp.com

  7. #22
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    I replaced my stock bar ends with these w/ good results (for me).

    I went with the regular, not extra heavy set. I reserve the extra heavy set for my Guzzi.

    I've made heavy bar ends w/ a lathe at work, but by the time I find some stock and spend time machining and subsequently painting (if it's not stainless steel), these don't seem so expensive.

    https://www.hvmp.com/

    Edit: RAS, you beat me to the punch by 2 minutes....

  8. #23
    apriliaforum expert RAS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by vtduc View Post
    I replaced my stock bar ends with these w/ good results (for me).

    I went with the regular, not extra heavy set. I reserve the extra heavy set for my Guzzi.

    I've made heavy bar ends w/ a lathe at work, but by the time I find some stock and spend time machining and subsequently painting (if it's not stainless steel), these don't seem so expensive.

    https://www.hvmp.com/

    Edit: RAS, you beat me to the punch by 2 minutes....
    hah, watched a vid Monday where a guy replaced the stock ends with these on an FJR Yamaha. I'd have beat ya by 3 minutes, but it took me a lil extra time to search my browser history, lol

    Good to hear they work.

  9. #24
    apriliaforum Member StreetCred's Avatar
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    Click image for larger version. 

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    Here's a pic of the bar end. Not sure how much it weighs. The end is made out of steel. Checked with a magnet. Not sure what I'm going to do. The ends from hvmp.com look nice!
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  10. #25
    apriliaforum expert RAS's Avatar
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    Iirc, someone in one of those threads I linked to mentioned that there was a design change at some point (maybe it was kzmille). That set-up looks different from all the drawings I've seen. W/o even removing mine, it's different in that there's no large nut up against the inside edge of the weight.

    With that small end nut well into the bar, how did you hold it from turning? I suspect an air impact wrench would have spun the bolt fast enough (think mine spins at 8k RPM if there's no load) that even with little tension on the nut, it would have unscrewed

  11. #26
    apriliaforum Member StreetCred's Avatar
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    I have aftermarket handle bars and they have a small hole on the opposite side from the grip end. I was able to fashion a tool that fit through the hole and capture enough of the nut to hold it while I backed out the screw.

    The weight seems to be free floating. I think the way this is supposed to work is the large,, black rubber part would expand to hold the assembly in the bar and the small O-ring keeps all other part from touching the handle bar. The weight is free to bounce around and counteract the vibration. This is just a guess on my part.
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  12. #27
    apriliaforum expert RAS's Avatar
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    yep, that cone will expand the black rubber piece and that's what holds the assembly inside the bar. If that Oring on the aluminum piece is not very snug inside the bar, that might allow the whole thing to move inside the bar. You could try a fatter one into the slot.

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