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Thread: Erratic idle/rough running (apols for vagueness)

  1. #1
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    Erratic idle/rough running (apols for vagueness)

    Good afternoon all.

    Iím afraid Iím in need of some advice/assistance please.

    The bike is a 2008 Caponord (second generation I believe, indicators on stalks, not faired in Ė in case that makes a difference) on just over 34,000 miles.
    The bike has been running quite poorly at tickover, the revs are quite erratic as can be seen on this video the bike would sometimes stall of its own accord.



    I figured that the bike needed a good service and hoped that would sort it - new plugs, oil and filter, cleaned the K&N filter and checked the valve clearances (all well within tolerance) but the problem continues.

    I bought the bike from Sloth/Diablo when it had just over 30,000 miles on it. Iím told the bike has the Catfish map, along with twin Remus end cans. Iím reluctant to think the map/cans are the cause because theyíre not new to the bike and the bike was running fine up until 600 miles ago.

    Also when idling, the bike sounds like itís coughing or gasping for air. Not a backfire, just persistent Ďsucksí from the exhausts for want of a better term.

    Appreciate this is like shining a torch into a cave but if anyone has some ideas on where I should start looking I'd be very grateful.

    Thanks,


  2. #2
    apriliaforum expert nerald's Avatar
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    Sounds like an in leak of air somewhere. Not too helpful I know, but check all the vac hoses for cracks, slippage. May be as well replacing with silicone as the pipes will be 10 year old plus by now and a few metres of pipe won’t brake the bank.
    08 ETV 1000 Caponord
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  3. #3
    apriliaforum expert Leanit's Avatar
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    I've chimed in with this largely useless story a few times in response to identical queries:

    I don't know what it is. My 2003 used to do it intermittently -- as in, daily for a couple months, and then return to normal. During these periods I would change nothing to cause the lumpy idle nor to bring about its cure. A few years ago, it seemed to just stop. I think it's electrics related, but I don't have any usable info other than, "Yeah, that's a thing."

    I'll get my coat.

  4. #4
    apriliaforum expert northernkiwi's Avatar
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    I have had a post with similar problems, have changed vac hoses, cleaned steper motor, injector flanges and seals, plus injector relay. Also had coils and leads checked .it now runs better and doesnt cut out at low revs, or stop while idling at normal temps. It does hesitate,splutter when given the gun at low revs in 1,2 or 3rd gear. I have learned to live with, and do not live close enough to an afficianado like grant or aprilia performance. If my health permitted i would try these avenues, first get a full check in regards to an air leak and then get grant to remap, check the mapping. Do not know enough about it to know if the mapping can go out of sinc or what.
    Current:
    2004 capo - the grey one
    Oberon clutch slave, 4cm extra foam in riders seat, RR back shock , Hagon progressive front springs, 4 techauto coils, AF1 fuel line and metal connectors, both brown connectors replaced with direct wiring, kappa racks and Big Husky 46l cases, hepco becker junior top case,mandatory capo stickers, cbr honda mosfet rectifier. Grant of watford,s map.
    Previous:
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    knees in the breeze is my only disease

  5. #5
    apriliaforum expert Kennibear's Avatar
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    Sync the throttle bodies.
    One if the bleed screws should be fully seated (screwed down all the way) and the other cracked open to balance the vacuum at idle. If they are both open somewhat the engine will lope around and the idle will be erratic.
    Some of these bikes have cracks develope in the throttle body to cylinder head boot and the CanAm replacements work. Those cracks can be tough to find.
    The suggestion to change all your vacuum lines to silicone just because is sound advice. They live in the hottest part of the bike so a good idea methinks.

    KB

    Sent from my E6833 using Tapatalk

  6. #6
    apriliaforum expert
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    At idle, spray some WD40 on the boots. If the idle settles down they are likely cracked. A quick check without having to take them off.
    ETV stands for Extra-Terrestrial Vehicle. The only thing better than having one is having two.

  7. #7
    apriliaforum expert northernkiwi's Avatar
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    good advice guys, shall check that out NeXT year, season pettering out here, and i live With it.thanks.
    Current:
    2004 capo - the grey one
    Oberon clutch slave, 4cm extra foam in riders seat, RR back shock , Hagon progressive front springs, 4 techauto coils, AF1 fuel line and metal connectors, both brown connectors replaced with direct wiring, kappa racks and Big Husky 46l cases, hepco becker junior top case,mandatory capo stickers, cbr honda mosfet rectifier. Grant of watford,s map.
    Previous:
    Honda CB 360
    Kawasaki Z1 900
    86 Yamaha xj 900
    knees in the breeze is my only disease

  8. #8
    apriliaforum newb
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    Hello folks. Apologies for not checking back into this thread for the last couple of weeks - school holidays and kids got in the way.

    thanks for all the replies so far, theyíre appreciated, even Leanit - no need to get your coat, all experiences are helpful.

    Quote Originally Posted by nerald View Post
    Sounds like an in leak of air somewhere. Not too helpful I know, but check all the vac hoses for cracks, slippage. May be as well replacing with silicone as the pipes will be 10 year old plus by now and a few metres of pipe wonít brake the bank.
    Good point. When we were servicing the bike a few weeks ago we did find a vac hose that had perished on the end. We simply cut the perished end off and went on our way.

    Any idea what the internal diameter is of the vac hoses?

    Quote Originally Posted by Kennibear View Post
    Sync the throttle bodies.
    One if the bleed screws should be fully seated (screwed down all the way) and the other cracked open to balance the vacuum at idle. If they are both open somewhat the engine will lope around and the idle will be erratic.
    Some of these bikes have cracks develope in the throttle body to cylinder head boot and the CanAm replacements work. Those cracks can be tough to find.
    The suggestion to change all your vacuum lines to silicone just because is sound advice. They live in the hottest part of the bike so a good idea methinks.

    KB

    Sent from my E6833 using Tapatalk
    To be honest, we didnít sync the TB as part of the service, for my part I didnít even think about it so thatís on the to-do list for next weekend.

    Quote Originally Posted by CapoEVT View Post
    At idle, spray some WD40 on the boots. If the idle settles down they are likely cracked. A quick check without having to take them off.
    Excuse my ignorance but when you say boots........

    Thanks again.

  9. #9
    apriliaforum expert timcrasher's Avatar
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    The vac hoses are mostly 5mm internal diameter. The two clear hoses for the balancing take off are 6mm. I also replaced the larger hoses which are 10mm. Most folk replace the hoses with silicon hose.
    The boots referred to are the intake manifold rubbers between the throttle bodies and the intake ports. These are getting on a bit even on the newest bikes and can develop cracks causing air leaks.
    http://www.youtube.com/user/timcrasher

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    2001 Aprilia Caponord: gone but not forgotten
    2016 Ducati Multistrada DVT ( or should that be PMT ) Flirted with an Italian bella donna but she left me for another lover
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  10. #10
    apriliaforum expert
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    Yes, boots are the rubber pieces that connect the throttle body to intake.

    When replacing hoses it is important to remember there are two kinds, those that contain pressure and those that hold vacuum and using the wrong kind leads to problems. When some thin silicone hoses are used they can collapse from vacuum so insure if you use them to ask if they are suitable for that purpose.

    One of the best hoses are sold by Honda, they are of the correct size and come in bulk, just cut to length. Using the old hose as a pull strings, the new hose can then be cut to the length needed instead of cutting first and then finding out it's just a bit short.

    Search and you'll find the Honda part#. You won't need to replace them again.

    Also, gasoline degrades silicone hoses, the rubber kind ala Honda are made to function even if they contact gasoline. Silicone is a great material but gas turns it into goo.
    ETV stands for Extra-Terrestrial Vehicle. The only thing better than having one is having two.

  11. #11
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    Tim, CapoEVT,

    Thanks as always.

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