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Thread: Upgraded starting/earth leads

  1. #1
    apriliaforum expert the_toe_cutter's Avatar
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    Upgraded starting/earth leads

    Nothing below that hasn't been done before or done better (hi Karl) but I reckoned I'd throw up a few pics and my findings. Might help a fellow numpty to fit them or decide to.


    Flexible despite the thickness.


    Pulled the tank, dropped the sump guard, displaced the coolant and oil res.
    Oil res hid a straight shot at my main engine earth. When pushed aside slightly you can get it. Funny, seems to be varying earthing points on various capos. Mine was here and seemed to be from factory.
    The coolant res hides the starter motor connection which snakes up along the frame rail and into the subframe to the starter solenoid behind the positive battery terminal.





    And the main earth on the lhs.


    Here she is hooked up with the new kit.


    Bent the stock terminal flat and bolted the new lead on so I could pull it through




    Routing follows under the the subframe and over the slave to the front cyl.


    Copper washers and grease!


    You cut the two wires from the 30amp fuse and solder these in. Cut so length are as stock.


    Soldered one shorter somehow lol. Used straight butt connectors using 2.5mm x 2, crimped, soldered, greased and heatshrunk.


    Stock lengths.


    Kit has additional threaded comnection points for ancillary shit, which is nice!
    With my wiring and associated fuse holders for the rr loom, drl's and pc3 thats about ss tidt as I can get the snake pit.

    Kit is from John Walker as fitted by our Karl.
    http://caponord.co.uk/2017/06/john-w...und-cable-kit/
    I'd always had the odd hot starting reluctance to fire, sometimes even having the starter fail to turn her if at near tdc. Every couple yrs I'd pull the earths and clean em and convince myself that helped but lately i noticed it twice on one spin and said fook that. A recent post from Nerald where he cited this as a contributory reason as to why the clocks shit the bed was enough for me.

    Starting is way more urgent and the battery bug confirms a healthier starting performance. The cranking rate is actaully quite alarming and testament to both the undersize oem cables and the high quality units John produces. Glad i did this.
    I paid 75 quid delivered, contact John at
    copperkits@yahoo.com
    Brum Brum

  2. #2
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    Always nice to see how someone else does it. Nice and tidy.

    Watch those copper washers though. Copper and aluminum don't play nice together which is one reason the terminals are often plated with another metal like zinc or tin. The copper washers don't contribute to better conductivity unless they separate multiple terminals.

    Nylox is really good for copper to aluminum contact.
    Last edited by CapoEVT; 08-11-2019 at 12:05 PM.
    ETV stands for Extra-Terrestrial Vehicle. The only thing better than having one is having two.

  3. #3
    apriliaforum Junkie pugwash's Avatar
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    I fitted such a kit to my bike last year and second the quality of the cables, while fitting mine I took the opportunity to move all my auxiliary equipment positive cables to the battery post of the starter solenoid to just leave the battery cable to fit at the battery.

    Anyway I see you've been working in the guest bedroom again TTC! Any plans for another Ireland ride out some time?

    Pugwash
    Remember, you cannot outrun a motorola!

    2003 Caponord
    2007 FJR1300AS
    2010 KLX250

  4. #4
    apriliaforum expert AndyB's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CapoEVT View Post

    Watch those copper washers though. Copper and aluminum don't play nice together which is one reason the terminals are often plated with another metal like zinc or tin. The copper washers don't contribute to better conductivity unless they separate multiple terminals.
    I guess you are referring to the difference in valancy between copper and aluminium, which can lead to "dissimilar-metal corrosion". You can reduce this effect considerably but smothering the whole lot in something to keep the air and, more importantly, any moisture out. Yes, I'm talking about ........VASELINE, that well-known electrolyte and rival to duct tape as a general purpose fixer.



    Did you hear about the newly-weds who didn't know the difference between putty and vaseline?
    .
    .
    .
    All their windows fell out.

  5. #5
    apriliaforum expert nerald's Avatar
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    All their windows fell out.

    How come?
    08 ETV 1000 Caponord
    NC705X DCT - The Blue Toad
    Honda PCX125 - White Lightning

  6. #6
    apriliaforum expert the_toe_cutter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nerald View Post
    All their windows fell out.

    How come?
    Lol they reached for the wrong tube lol ya dirty fecker Andy!
    You know now if my clocks do release the smoke i can hold you responsible Nerald

    Nah it was on my mind as the very odd time (maybe three times in my ownership) the rev needle would do a wee dance on a bad start attempt. I'd be like "look at that you little bastard!" Suppose it would be wise to send the clocks to Motoabruzzo for him do the electronic equivalent of sacrificing electrical chickens in its name before it does something fancier than the tacho twitch again. Actually is Karl still doing clocks lads?

    I'd half forgotten you'd fitted them Jim. Do you do it when you did major works in a thread a yr or so ago? Man you did everything in that service! Fair play, that capo is whipped into shape by god; )

    Etv, and there I was fitting them copper washers for you lol. I was half pished there a couple months ago some friday night reading a thread about capo owners trying to make electrons going in straight lines to where they were supposed to and copper washers were what i took from it haha. As andy says i have a penchant for vaseline on my electrical connections but Ms Cutters connections aint so good for some reason..?
    Brum Brum

  7. #7
    apriliaforum expert the_toe_cutter's Avatar
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    Actually, question for ya lads...
    I have an aftermarket Hitachi solenoid in her but once removed i failed to note the particular sides the starter cable and battery terminal end bolted to. For about ten seconds i pondered the job a solenoid did and said well it shouldn't matter as its a switch. My brain started smoking so i consolled myself with "sure you have a 50% chance of getting it right" and drove on lol. So is there a wrong order there? There were no markings on the terminals.
    Thick question i know but I'd be thicker if it were not asked.
    Brum Brum

  8. #8
    apriliaforum expert falcojake's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by the_toe_cutter View Post
    Actually, question for ya lads...
    I have an aftermarket Hitachi solenoid in her but once removed i failed to note the particular sides the starter cable and battery terminal end bolted to. For about ten seconds i pondered the job a solenoid did and said well it shouldn't matter as its a switch. My brain started smoking so i consolled myself with "sure you have a 50% chance of getting it right" and drove on lol. So is there a wrong order there? There were no markings on the terminals.
    Thick question i know but I'd be thicker if it were not asked.

    Hi Colum

    nice to read your post!

    as far as i know theres no polarity to a starter solenoid. others may advise differently but from the workings i cant see how there would be.

    the solenoid on my old car has a spade connector on the upstream (battery side of the switch) to which the fuse box is connected for everything else but thats old 1960s Lucas stuff.

  9. #9
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    There is no polarity, it's a switch. I wouldn't connect accessories to it though, other than the starter. Run a dedicated connection to a distribution box for other accessories. Do the same for the ground and fuse anything drawing from the battery. Connection accessories like drls to the solenoid just makes things complicated if your solenoid fails and remains stuck open.

    In that way you have a very clean connection at the battery and if an accessory isn't working, checking the distro box fuses is a simple affair as is replacing a bad solenoid.

    BTW, if you put vaseline on the connection for the ground at the cly head, note that Vaseline melts at just over 100 degrees F. Vaseline also burns readily so silicone based dialectric grease is better around anything that gets hot.

    Want to start a fire? Dab some vasaline onto a stick and hit it with a match, it will burn really hot for quite a while even if the wood is soaking wet.
    Last edited by CapoEVT; 08-13-2019 at 10:08 AM.
    ETV stands for Extra-Terrestrial Vehicle. The only thing better than having one is having two.

  10. #10
    apriliaforum newb matisse's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by the_toe_cutter View Post
    Nah it was on my mind as the very odd time (maybe three times in my ownership) the rev needle would do a wee dance on a bad start attempt.
    Mine does this now all the time?! Tacho jumps to ~7k and right down at crank, but the bike starts quick and easy (wire mod, mosfet RR, John Walker's proper cables). What could be causing this and should I worry?

  11. #11
    apriliaforum expert the_toe_cutter's Avatar
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    Tracking in board of the clocks? Bad earth on/to the board?
    Beyond my paygrade mate. I stay ahead of the curve problem wise with her but for the most part I'm standing on the shoulders of the smart lads.
    Maybe email Karl. Hell if he's on for it I would love to send him mine just to do some of his fancy unit conversion to Celsius etc and replace that wee gizmo that always goes on them with a better one.
    Have a read of his site, he outlines how and why they mostly fail. Man knows his shit.
    Brum Brum

  12. #12
    apriliaforum expert the_toe_cutter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by falcojake View Post
    Hi Colum

    nice to read your post!

    as far as i know theres no polarity to a starter solenoid. others may advise differently but from the workings i cant see how there would be.

    the solenoid on my old car has a spade connector on the upstream (battery side of the switch) to which the fuse box is connected for everything else but thats old 1960s Lucas stuff.
    Hey Jake! Long time buddy! How'r you and yours keeping man?
    So my initial gut reaction was right so lol. I should learn to trust my instincts.
    Jake iirc you repaired your clocks, whats the skinny on em again?

    Quote Originally Posted by CapoEVT View Post
    There is no polarity, it's a switch. I wouldn't connect accessories to it though, other than the starter. Run a dedicated connection to a distribution box for other accessories. Do the same for the ground and fuse anything drawing from the battery. Connection accessories like drls to the solenoid just makes things complicated if your solenoid fails and remains stuck open.

    In that way you have a very clean connection at the battery and if an accessory isn't working, checking the distro box fuses is a simple affair as is replacing a bad solenoid.

    BTW, if you put vaseline on the connection for the ground at the cly head, note that Vaseline melts at just over 100 degrees F. Vaseline also burns readily so silicone based dialectric grease is better around anything that gets hot.

    Want to start a fire? Dab some vasaline onto a stick and hit it with a match, it will burn really hot for quite a while even if the wood is soaking wet.
    Beasthonda made those boxes and I should have bought one!
    Brum Brum

  13. #13
    apriliaforum expert nerald's Avatar
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    Hopeful they won't go pop then TC.
    I think the age of these clocks and components now would see them failing on their own now without assistance, so a full refurbishment would be they way to go. I think Karl would have too much on his plate to offer such a service so we would be stuck. I have the skills to do most of it but not the inclination unless my own go tits up, but currently I have other things on my mind!!
    If stuff improves for me and I can get out of working for a living I might change my mind but it'll be a couple of years yet.
    Nature of the beast I am afraid, old electronic components in a harsh atmosphere with constant vibration during use - Never a good idea. (sounds like me at work)
    08 ETV 1000 Caponord
    NC705X DCT - The Blue Toad
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    Member darota successfully grafted on a 3rd party LED gauge cluster to completely replace those OEM jobs. The result sure looked good as well as being updated. I had hoped to catch up with him on my last trip to Germany but it wasn't in the cards. From the explanation though it seems like not too difficult a thing to do and it might be worthwhile to go that route just to avoid future failures.

    It's not cheap to do but less than the hassle of finding used gauges or buying a new set for around $1000.
    ETV stands for Extra-Terrestrial Vehicle. The only thing better than having one is having two.

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