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Thread: Bike electrically dead ish, only 3V reaching ignition/clocks

  1. #1
    apriliaforum Junkie
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    Bike electrically dead ish, only 3V reaching ignition/clocks

    Hi all,

    15 months/15k miles later and after having spent 3 weeks touring Croatia, bike decided to let me down today!! Was joining the motorway doing 70mph and all of a sudden, lost power,... initially thought I had blown a fuse as it was unexpected but once I stopped, noticed the clocks/lights were flickering with power on and off.

    1. Got the multimeter out of the tool kit, 12.7V on the battery, however when I turn the key to the ON position, battery reading less than 1V!!!!
    2. Took the screen off and check voltage on ignition and had just over 3V.
    3. Disconnected R/R positive and negative that go straight to battery, just in case it was down to earth, and same thing, 12.7V with ignition OFF and less that 1V with ignition ON.
    4. Check continuity from positive battery to ignition positive behind clocks and all good, check most positives behind positives and same again - healthy continuity

    What ideas lads?

    a) Last issue I had was with loom on right hand side, there were 3 splices and I addressed them both, soldered all and head shrink all connections there; see post https://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/...=1#post4408060
    b) After a bit of research I remember seeing this post a while back and don't remember addressing this joint, so think it's "well hidden": see post https://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/...=1#post2954332
    c) I'm thinking it might be worthwhile checking this one on the left hand side of the harness first: https://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/...=1#post4164485

    A bit tired and pissed as just been recovered home - however my little brain is struggling to understand why an issue on the loom would "short" the battery (12.7V with ignition OFF and less than 1V with ignition ON),... Am I being thick?!?

    Thanks in advance... time for a beer.

  2. #2
    apriliaforum expert
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    12.7 does not mean your battery is good. Simple things first. Have you checked the battery other than using the energized circuits with ignition on?
    ETV stands for Extra-Terrestrial Vehicle. The only thing better than having one is having two.

  3. #3
    apriliaforum expert haga lout's Avatar
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    Battery’s gone mate I had one go last year worked fine stopped for petrol switch off came back no power was 12v at batt but under load it was toast

  4. #4
    apriliaforum Junkie
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    Quote Originally Posted by CapoEVT View Post
    12.7 does not mean your battery is good. Simple things first. Have you checked the battery other than using the energized circuits with ignition on?
    Nope - what do you suggest?

    Quote Originally Posted by haga lout View Post
    Battery’s gone mate I had one go last year worked fine stopped for petrol switch off came back no power was 12v at batt but under load it was toast
    Haven't been in the garage today but I did try and jump the starter solenoid when I stopped but couldn't quite get anything and I thought I wasn't bridging both connections - so you might be right, never had that before so will nip to Halfords in the morning and get one! Everyday is a school day and all that.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jose View Post
    Nope - what do you suggest?



    Haven't been in the garage today but I did try and jump the starter solenoid when I stopped but couldn't quite get anything and I thought I wasn't bridging both connections - so you might be right, never had that before so will nip to Halfords in the morning and get one! Everyday is a school day and all that.
    Poor man's load test. Disconnect the battery and tape up both cables just to make sure they can't touch the battery terminals. Connect a 12 vdc device to the battery and measure voltage. A light, a small cav vac, tire inflator etc. If the voltage drop like a lead brick you'll know with reasonable certainly the battery is shot.

    Don't try jumping the solenoid unless you want to fry it. The low voltage and current will just encourage it to fail since you might wait for the starter to spin.

    Bad batteries are the root of many electrical problems and they can cause lots of components downstream to fail.
    ETV stands for Extra-Terrestrial Vehicle. The only thing better than having one is having two.

  6. #6
    apriliaforum Junkie pugwash's Avatar
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    I had a very similar problem a couple of years ago that left me stranded at the side of a German autobahn, my Yuasa battery failed and as soon as any load was applied to the battery its voltage dropped to near zero. I managed to jump start the bike with a boost pack but the electrical system is not capable of running the bike without a decent battery.

    I had a theory that one of the internal links cell to cell or posts had failed but was unable to investigate further as I had to get recovered and source a new battery to continue our tour.

    Pugwash
    Remember, you cannot outrun a motorola!

    2003 Caponord
    2007 FJR1300AS
    2010 KLX250

  7. #7
    apriliaforum Junkie
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    Damn, new battery on and good as new - wouldn't have believe it without seeing it!!

    Thanks guys

  8. #8
    apriliaforum newb
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    Just curious about average battery life on the 990 caponord? Just replaced mine but bike is new to me so I have no idea how old it is. It is a YTX Yuasa. I've just bought the Yuasa GYZ but have not got it up and running yet as I'm updating the wiring from the regulator. Wondering also what others have done in this area? Links please? Thanks. Jim in Wisconsin

  9. #9
    apriliaforum expert
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    No such thing as average battery life. There are too many variables. For example, if you usually ride short routes and do a lot of starts in a day that will impact battery life if it's not properly maintained. Leaving a deeply discharged battery without charging it promptly also degrades its life.
    ETV stands for Extra-Terrestrial Vehicle. The only thing better than having one is having two.

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