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Thread: 15/44 Gearing - 2010 RSV4 Factory

  1. #1
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    15/44 Gearing - 2010 RSV4 Factory

    Hey guys, I know this has been talked about a ton but I haven't seen anything specifically to the 2010 and pre APRC. Anyone in here running 15/44 on the '10 Factory for track riding? It seems to be a popular combo on the 11-12 models, but not sure this stays true for the 2010.

    Anyone in here have experience? Thoughts?

    Thanks!

  2. #2
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    15/42 is the way to go!




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    apriliaforum Member SlamDunK's Avatar
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    Tried it on my 2009, now have a 2011 and run 15/42.

    For the street it was much improved but the shortened wheelbase felt horrible, the bike lost a lot of it's stability.
    If I was to do it again I'd get a longer chain.

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    If you had a longer chain, would you have enjoyed it more?


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    Quote Originally Posted by SlamDunK View Post
    Tried it on my 2009, now have a 2011 and run 15/42.

    For the street it was much improved but the shortened wheelbase felt horrible, the bike lost a lot of it's stability.
    If I was to do it again I'd get a longer chain.
    If you had a longer chain to keep wheelbase the same, would you recommend?


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  6. #6
    apriliaforum expert flobrandx's Avatar
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    I ran 15/42 on my 2010 and was happy with it.
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    On the SSTK we ran most circuits at 15/ 41/42/43 like Le Mans

    now on the ‘18RR its 16/44 for most and back to 42 for Magny Cours F1 where we clock 300kph

    The later model swinging arms have two dowel pin locations for the rear brake torque arm, so you can drastically reduce the wheelbase. 16/44 requires it in the front position, going down to 15 on the front returning the dowel back to the original position and 41~44 rear sprockets available on normal chain length

    https://www.gearingcommander.com/
    Previous bikes : AR50 - AR80 - CB250N - RD350LC - RGV250 - VT400 - TDR250 - VIRAGO 535 - RF600 - RF900 - CBR600 - GSXR750 - TL1000R - T160 TRIUMPH - R1 - PIAGGIO - R6 - RC30 - 916SPS - VFR800 - 675 DAYTONA - CBR600RR - TL1000R - YZF750 - RSV4 FACTORY.

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    Depends on what your application is....if you want to ride wheelies then going up to 44 in the rear will make it much easier, if your tracking it then you'll need to figure the best combination for that particular track....road riding I think going up two from stock is best as you still can power wheelie and still have decent top end. Just my $0.02 worth.

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    apriliaforum prov-nov
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    Thanks all! I ride on small, tight tracks 80% of the time so I think 43 or 44 in the rear may be the ticket. I also went with a little longer chain to keep the wheelbase as long as possible. Hopefully this will help keep the front wheel down!


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  10. #10
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    I ran 15/44 on my old bike for a day before changing back to 15/42. NZ tracks are tight too but the 44 rear was too short for me. Also made it a little harder to utilise the torque of the engine as it revved up super fast. Just my experience.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by das134 View Post
    I ran 15/44 on my old bike for a day before changing back to 15/42. NZ tracks are tight too but the 44 rear was too short for me. Also made it a little harder to utilise the torque of the engine as it revved up super fast. Just my experience.
    Thanks for the feedback. Worst case scenario I drop it down to a 42. We will see


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    15/44 Gearing - 2010 RSV4 Factory

    Now iím worried I shouldíve went to 42 rear. Hoping I donít have to change the chain length going from 44 to 42 rear. Oh well, live and learn!


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    Quote Originally Posted by Viper1 View Post
    Depends on what your application is....if you want to ride wheelies then going up to 44 in the rear will make it much easier, if your tracking it then you'll need to figure the best combination for that particular track....road riding I think going up two from stock is best as you still can power wheelie and still have decent top end. Just my $0.02 worth.
    With the swinging arm in the lower position the 16/44 tooth gives less ‘squat’ plus a 60 section SBK slick Pirelli instead of a 55 gives a 63 increase in tyre circumference, there’s no more wheelie, in fact Better drive & top speed is reinstalled

    Old rule use of thumb was 1 tooth front equals 2 at the back, but that now depends on gearbox ratios.
    my old SuperBikes would pull 100kph plus in first then the average 30kph delta between gears
    Previous bikes : AR50 - AR80 - CB250N - RD350LC - RGV250 - VT400 - TDR250 - VIRAGO 535 - RF600 - RF900 - CBR600 - GSXR750 - TL1000R - T160 TRIUMPH - R1 - PIAGGIO - R6 - RC30 - 916SPS - VFR800 - 675 DAYTONA - CBR600RR - TL1000R - YZF750 - RSV4 FACTORY.

  14. #14
    apriliaforum Member SlamDunK's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ac792 View Post
    If you had a longer chain to keep wheelbase the same, would you recommend?


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    For the street, yes.
    Track though, depends on how much outright speed you need.
    For general riding the gearing was way too tall on the '09, the '11 is a little better but still requires a lot of clutch feathering on slow speed corners

    If you've already bought the stuff and fitted it, at worst you'll know for sure if it's the right decision.
    Also you can experiment with the original front and the 44 rear.
    Amauri recommends such a setup to reduce chain wear.

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    15/44 Gearing - 2010 RSV4 Factory

    Quote Originally Posted by SlamDunK View Post
    For the street, yes.
    Track though, depends on how much outright speed you need.
    For general riding the gearing was way too tall on the '09, the '11 is a little better but still requires a lot of clutch feathering on slow speed corners

    If you've already bought the stuff and fitted it, at worst you'll know for sure if it's the right decision.
    Also you can experiment with the original front and the 44 rear.
    Amauri recommends such a setup to reduce chain wear.
    Thank you for the input! I already fitted the setup. Worst case scenario I throw a 42 on the rear or even a 16 on the front.


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