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Thread: Track day tire pressure

  1. #16
    apriliaforum prov-nov Kenai's Avatar
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    I had the images reviewed by Dave Moss who is a suspension setup and tire wear guru.

  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kenai View Post
    I had the images reviewed by Dave Moss who is a suspension setup and tire wear guru.
    Indeed he is! At least you have something to personally work towards next time out.

    We probably ought to have invoked Dave a little earlier:



    Starting with what you're already familiar with and extrapolating from there is just sensible, I'd say.

    And remember we're talking about road tyres that warm up quickly and operate at a cooler temperature anyway.
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  3. #18
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    well first track day complete.

    Already bumped to level 2 (out of levels 1,1.5,2, and 3) and scraping pegs.

    Thinking about getting a 190/60 for my next rear since I'm running the entire rear to the edge compared to the front.

    Also need to look at getting foot peg risers or stiffening suspension all the way around.

    Had a great time!
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  4. #19
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    oh yea.

    I ran 28r 30f cold. On the Metzeler m7rr. Never had an issue all day. Hooked up great!

    It was a coldish (for texas) day on the track too.
    Don't be a jerk... jerk

    2016 KTM 250 xc
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  5. #20
    apriliaforum expert maddad's Avatar
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    Great result ,remember the front will always wear different to the back .long as you had a good time it's the most fun I have had the track is a great place.

  6. #21
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    Next is Circuit of the Americas!
    Don't be a jerk... jerk

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  7. #22
    apriliaforum prov-nov Kenai's Avatar
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    A little advice on grinding foot pegs, check your suspension and learn how to lean off the bike. That will solve the peg grinding.
    Not so sure about the bigger tire.

  8. #23
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    Footpeg strike was one thing reviewers picked up on with this bike. Radical appears to be getting off the bike OK (given the ergo setup) from the pics he shared in the "what you done" thread. Hanging off even more has more benefit the heavier you are, or if you're already at MotoGP lean levels. Speaking generally, a smaller guy on a tall bike isn't going to have much impact (except, again, tipped right over), and the high handlebars make it pretty sketchy anyway.

    A quick fix for both the pegs and the tyre could come from adding more rear preload - do it a bit at a time and keep one eye on the steering feel. It's only marginal in absolute terms (a few mm at the pegs), but it should make a noticeable difference.
    Reducing tyre deformation can sometimes bring a bit of margin back, depending on the tyre. It's possible the lower tyre pressure hasn't helped in that regard.


    On the other hand, it might not even matter. If it feels OK banked over, then all's good. My old Z8s felt squirmy on the edge, and would go over, but that was more a result of the comparative lack of carcass stiffness.
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  9. #24
    apriliaforum expert jay dub's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kenai View Post
    A little advice on grinding foot pegs, check your suspension and learn how to lean off the bike. That will solve the peg grinding.
    Suspension will not help peg grinding..

    Click image for larger version. 

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  10. #25
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    stiffer suspension at a 50 lean angle will increase the peg clearance to the ground by ~ SIN(50) (marginal improvement). Now we just figure out if stiffening her up all round will make things better/worse/same for handling.



    Also about leaning off the bike. Instructor said I look great except I need to get my head to the side and lower more. Hips and legs looked fine.

    I definitely only had 1 ass cheek on the seat lol.
    Don't be a jerk... jerk

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  11. #26
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    Cosine, surely? So yeah, halve it.

    Putting more weight on the front keeps the pegs higher more of the time, too (they're closer to the rear wheel) - hence my suggestion of adding rear preload only.
    2009 Shiver (White) | UK

  12. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by IndelibleInk View Post
    Cosine, surely? So yeah, halve it.

    Putting more weight on the front keeps the pegs higher more of the time, too (they're closer to the rear wheel) - hence my suggestion of adding rear preload only.
    ummm it depends which angle ur taking? SIN = Opposite/hypotenuse. Relative to the road it's SIN. relative to bike up/down it's COSINE

    ANYWAYYY

    I think we can all agree peg risers would probably be the best option! haha


    Slight uphill left hand turn... the bike didn't want to turn as well. Kinda felt like maybe the front was pushing/plowing a bit. Maybe increasing rear preload would help a bit as well with that.

    I have 1 trackday under my belt. I'm a pro.
    Don't be a jerk... jerk

    2016 KTM 250 xc
    2013 KTM 350 xcf ---------------SOLD
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    2009 Dorsoduro 750
    2003 KLX 400R
    2009 YZ450 -----------------------SOLD
    2007 ZZR600 ----------------------SOLD
    2006 CBR600RR ------------------SOLD
    2009 Ninja 250 -------------------SOLD

  13. #28
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    Cosine starts at 1 for zero angle, i.e. upright. So any vertical distance from the ground plane to a fixed point on the bike is reduced as per the cosine of the angle as the bike tips over. Still, even a few millimetres is not to be sniffed at, especially if it stays higher more of the time as well. This really is more for anyone else reading.


    It does sound like you could do with more weight on the front wheel, which is common for naked bikes in general. Adding rear preload tests that theory; if it works, consider raising the forks / dropping the clamps to a similar degree - then footpeg risers would indeed be useful.

    Others have done this already, so it's a common response to a handling need the bike presents in certain situations; i.e. track work. It'll just feel better on the road as well in all likelihood, more assured.
    2009 Shiver (White) | UK

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