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Thread: Alternative speed sensor?

  1. #16
    apriliaforum expert dobbi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mudhog View Post
    Speed sensor is reading zero on the dash when I spin the back wheel.

    But bizarrely in the ecu parameters mode the main relay is clicking away.

    ECU actuation mode the relay continues to click
    Then select coil and switching engine switch to stop then run the message will not change????
    Actuations work on all other options
    Injector
    Ais solenoid
    Main relay
    Fan relay
    Head light relay

    Sent from my F3311 using Tapatalk
    That says to me that teh speed sensor is not working, but, I can't see it being a total stop sort of fault.

    Have you tried squirting ezstart into the airbox and turning it over? if it turns over for a few seconds,it will at least tell you if your ignition material are working right?

    its also worth checking wiring to the relays as these get a bit of a shower and often become correded, even though thing seem good here.

    Keep your findings coming, we'll get there eventually!
    “If it looks like a duck, and quacks like a duck, we have at least to consider the possibility that we have a small aquatic bird of the family anatidae on our hands.” Douglas Adams

  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by dobbi View Post
    That says to me that teh speed sensor is not working, but, I can't see it being a total stop sort of fault.

    Have you tried squirting ezstart into the airbox and turning it over? if it turns over for a few seconds,it will at least tell you if your ignition material are working right?

    its also worth checking wiring to the relays as these get a bit of a shower and often become correded, even though thing seem good here.

    Keep your findings coming, we'll get there eventually!
    What will eze start prove? I don't understand

    The bike spins over fine just no spark.
    All relay wiring has been checked out all good. And I have Swapped relays over to make sure that they are ok

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  3. #18
    apriliaforum expert dobbi's Avatar
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    run a line from the battery straight to the positive coil terminal. this prevents any interference from bad connections if they are there.

    if still nothing check plug or leads/

    ez start is a good way to see if there is a fuel issue but I see that we aren't really looking at that.
    “If it looks like a duck, and quacks like a duck, we have at least to consider the possibility that we have a small aquatic bird of the family anatidae on our hands.” Douglas Adams

  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by dobbi View Post
    run a line from the battery straight to the positive coil terminal. this prevents any interference from bad connections if they are there.

    if still nothing check plug or leads/

    ez start is a good way to see if there is a fuel issue but I see that we aren't really looking at that.
    OK new speed sensor gives the same output.

    I have two questions (for the moment)

    When the ignition is on should the sas solenoid get hot after a couple of minutes?

    Pin 1 out of the ecu that runs to the coil - violet/white - should this be 12 volt as well as the orange/red 12.9 volt both disconnected from coil.

    And yes coil tested OK and sparks on another bike

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  5. #20
    apriliaforum expert dobbi's Avatar
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    I can't get to my bike at the moment but there is one lead, i think it is the orange and red which always holds a current even if the bike is off. it is the one which comes from the ignition switch not the one connected to the ECU. I would suggest that the ECU terminal is suspect because I wouldn't think that it would have 12V running through it as I'd exect the ECU to switch off completlely when they key is out and not have any current running through it.

    Obviously the negative of the coil goes straight to the bodywork, and the final violet and white goes to the ECU where it will connect to the switch which allows the spark and the condensor.

    No you are going to need someone who really knows what they are talking about to confirm this, but the condensor is there to catch all of the back EMF coning back fron the coil when the primary coil is swithced off and the secondary coil fires the spark.

    If the condensor is broken then damage to the switch is enevitable.

    I would imageine the switch and condesor are within the ECU but, I would imagine are fairly easily repairable. I'm sure Spiros could do it if there is no one here in the UK.

    However, before you trust my macinations, get soneone who knows aobut such things to confirm it!
    “If it looks like a duck, and quacks like a duck, we have at least to consider the possibility that we have a small aquatic bird of the family anatidae on our hands.” Douglas Adams

  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by dobbi View Post
    I can't get to my bike at the moment but there is one lead, i think it is the orange and red which always holds a current even if the bike is off. it is the one which comes from the ignition switch not the one connected to the ECU. I would suggest that the ECU terminal is suspect because I wouldn't think that it would have 12V running through it as I'd exect the ECU to switch off completlely when they key is out and not have any current running through it.

    Obviously the negative of the coil goes straight to the bodywork, and the final violet and white goes to the ECU where it will connect to the switch which allows the spark and the condensor.

    No you are going to need someone who really knows what they are talking about to confirm this, but the condensor is there to catch all of the back EMF coning back fron the coil when the primary coil is swithced off and the secondary coil fires the spark.

    If the condensor is broken then damage to the switch is enevitable.

    I would imageine the switch and condesor are within the ECU but, I would imagine are fairly easily repairable. I'm sure Spiros could do it if there is no one here in the UK.

    However, before you trust my macinations, get soneone who knows aobut such things to confirm it!
    Yes permanent live is good - I've stripped down the wiring harness to check for shorts and all good. There is heat damage on the wires from the starter relay but all still intact.
    I suspect this all started with a damaged wire on the fuel pump and it has found an alternative 12v supply like dodgy trailer lights. This inturn probably upset half of the sensors which all seemed out of spec.
    Can't count the number of times I have doubted myself or the test meter or the spare test meter!

    I might have a look at the ecu once I have a better better idea what to expect.

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  7. #22
    apriliaforum expert dobbi's Avatar
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    That looks frustrating!

    Fuel pump is not connected to the sensor relays or takes power from same sources so this should help you to narrow the search. Have you got a pin from block removed? I find mine so useful for removeing pins from blocks, both round a flat for checking and cleaning. they are about £3 off ebay. A burn through in a connector is a likley place for one to occur, especially in the wet.
    “If it looks like a duck, and quacks like a duck, we have at least to consider the possibility that we have a small aquatic bird of the family anatidae on our hands.” Douglas Adams

  8. #23
    apriliaforum expert dobbi's Avatar
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    The scary thing is, Ive spend so much time under the tanks, I look at each of those connectors and I know where they are from!
    “If it looks like a duck, and quacks like a duck, we have at least to consider the possibility that we have a small aquatic bird of the family anatidae on our hands.” Douglas Adams

  9. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by dobbi View Post
    The scary thing is, Ive spend so much time under the tanks, I look at each of those connectors and I know where they are from!
    I found the damaged wire on the fuel pump all fixed even though it was still working! Must of back fed current through the earth

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  10. #25
    apriliaforum expert ytc1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mudhog View Post
    I found the damaged wire on the fuel pump all fixed even though it was still working! Must of back fed current through the earth

    Sent from my F3311 using Tapatalk
    Whoo hooo !

    Sent from my Moto G (5S) using Tapatalk
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  11. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by ytc1 View Post
    Whoo hooo !

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    Steady on. I found the broken wire and fixed that but ecu still fubar'd

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  12. #27
    apriliaforum expert ytc1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mudhog View Post
    Steady on. I found the broken wire and fixed that but ecu still fubar'd

    Sent from my F3311 using Tapatalk
    Booo hooo

    Sent from my Moto G (5S) using Tapatalk
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  13. #28
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    Check out the recent thread from the guy in Bulgaria who had an ECU with several suspect solder joints on the pcb. It's not uncommon, even on cars. Use a magnifying glass and see if any look iffy. Could be what you have.

  14. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by glopro View Post
    Check out the recent thread from the guy in Bulgaria who had an ECU with several suspect solder joints on the pcb. It's not uncommon, even on cars. Use a magnifying glass and see if any look iffy. Could be what you have.
    Cheers - yes saw that about dry joints, I'm over it tonight but might have a look later in the week. I'll take a few pictures when I get into it.

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  15. #30
    apriliaforum expert dobbi's Avatar
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    Yep look for a bigish capacitor when you open up the ecu, if its attached to ecu1 then this will be your condensor. somewhere will be a switching unit attached to it. These two might be damaged. replacement capacitors are easy to source, lots of good electonic component retailers on the web. I repaired the very screen I'm using here with about 12 of them for £5. The switching unit might be a bit harder to find.
    “If it looks like a duck, and quacks like a duck, we have at least to consider the possibility that we have a small aquatic bird of the family anatidae on our hands.” Douglas Adams

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