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Thread: Front forks

  1. #1
    apriliaforum newb
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    Front forks

    Hi Guys
    just a quick question , can I fit Dorsoduro 750 gold adjustable forks onto the Mana
    I have read that they are the same ?

  2. #2
    apriliaforum expert AndyT's Avatar
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    I did a bit of research and confirmed that the Dorso forks are the same diameter but thatís as far as it goes. The bike is 70mm taller than the Mana so the forks are longer and have longer travel as you would expect from a supermoto. Various members have replaced Mana forks with Tuono legs from various sources, but they need Tuono brakes as well due to different fittings.
    The Mana has asymmetric forks with compression damping in one leg and rebound in the other. They seem to be acceptable as long as you are close to the design rider weight of about 70kg however they are really too soft if you are heavier. Because of the asymmetric damping it is possible to change the rebound rate by using heavier fork oil in the rebound leg (sorry I canít remember which it is) and Iím sure somebody has done this, but canít find the post.
    I fitted adjustable Andreani springs and dampers in my GT and there is a post about how I did it. The Andreani set up was cheaper than Aprilia stock components, easy to fit and adjust and came with the correct springs for my weight/bike combination.
    2009 Mana GT ABS; Andreani fork cartridges with uprated springs; Dorsoduro hand guards and heated grips; 30mm handlebar risers; Digital tachograph: Modified woodcraft folding brake pedal; R&G frame sliders

  3. #3
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    Cheers Andy for the reply I appreciate your input , back to the drawing board ����

  4. #4
    apriliaforum expert pete roper's Avatar
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    TV 2 forks drop in. You need to change brakes though. I opted for Gen 2 forks which require 100mm radial calipers but I have several sets of them knocking about so it wasn't a problem for me.

    If you want a cheaper option go for the Gen 1 forks. Same fork essentially but they tale axial mount calipers which are also available cheaper than radial mount items and will work every bit as well with the right pads.

    I can't state strongly enough that the BEST bang for your buck improvement you can make to a Mana is upgrading its wretched, poverty-pack, suspension. It's frame is lovely, it's brakes are OK but upgrading is betterer! There isn't a lot you can do to improve the mapping for either the ECU or TCU but they work well enough.
    Professional Goat Burster.

  5. #5
    apriliaforum expert dadsafrantic's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pete roper View Post
    TV 2 forks drop in. You need to change brakes though. I opted for Gen 2 forks which require 100mm radial calipers but I have several sets of them knocking about so it wasn't a problem for me.

    If you want a cheaper option go for the Gen 1 forks. Same fork essentially but they tale axial mount calipers which are also available cheaper than radial mount items and will work every bit as well with the right pads.

    I can't state strongly enough that the BEST bang for your buck improvement you can make to a Mana is upgrading its wretched, poverty-pack, suspension. It's frame is lovely, it's brakes are OK but upgrading is betterer! There isn't a lot you can do to improve the mapping for either the ECU or TCU but they work well enough.
    so those are pre vr4 tuono forks? sorry for being a bit slow. there are several on fleabay now. the new brake calipers would match-up with the rotors? sorry, still slow.
    Last edited by dadsafrantic; 04-28-2019 at 12:35 PM.
    Dadsafrantic

    2015 Red Caponord #64
    2008 Mana Grey #81, hyperpro springs and shock, gpr furuore, rigid lights, bark busters, kaoko throttle lock, puig touring screen

  6. #6
    apriliaforum expert pete roper's Avatar
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    Yup. Off the old Rotax engined Tuonos. Discs are common or garden 320mm, offset the same.
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  7. #7
    apriliaforum expert dadsafrantic's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pete roper View Post
    Yup. Off the old Rotax engined Tuonos. Discs are common or garden 320mm, offset the same.
    nice info. thanks pete. i may have to go that route. i have about 43k miles and hope to get another 50 or so. the concern at the moment is the bike had a crash and the tube on the front of the frame that holds the stem and triple clamps is a bit off. no cracks or anything but it's off enough that the steering lock misses the hole now. the fork tubes aren't bent either. i've put at least 12k miles since the little episode and the bike seems ok. i'm going to check the bearings in a few weeks when i get a little time.
    Dadsafrantic

    2015 Red Caponord #64
    2008 Mana Grey #81, hyperpro springs and shock, gpr furuore, rigid lights, bark busters, kaoko throttle lock, puig touring screen

  8. #8
    apriliaforum expert pete roper's Avatar
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    Steering lock engages with the top yoke doesn't it? Probably just twisted. Support bike so weight is off the front, undo all the pinch bolts on top and bottom yokes and give it a tweak in the required direction so that the lock engages. Then tighten up the pinch bolts. If the bars are no longer straight it's either bent bars or bent fork tube. Take the wheel out. If the spindle is tight and when it comes out it all goes 'Splang!' And you can't get it back in again? It's a bent leg.
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  9. #9
    apriliaforum expert AndyT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dadsafrantic View Post
    i've put at least 12k miles since the little episode and the bike seems ok.
    Could the misaligned steering lock be due to a bent stop that is allowing the max turn angle to go too far? It seems odd that you could put another 12k on the bike and not see adverse effects if anything was bent or twisted.
    2009 Mana GT ABS; Andreani fork cartridges with uprated springs; Dorsoduro hand guards and heated grips; 30mm handlebar risers; Digital tachograph: Modified woodcraft folding brake pedal; R&G frame sliders

  10. #10
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    The V4 forks are the same length as the V2 forks (730 mm), excluding some Ohlins which won't fit through the lower clamp anyway, and possibly some of the most recent models.

    The early bikes, up to 2011 I think, had similar black anodised Showas to the V2s. Afterwards they switched to the gold coloured Sachs items, which are said to be a more modern design internally. All of these forks could arguably be undersprung for the Mana, though, at around 0.95 kg / mm.

    The Gen 1 V2 (axial brake caliper mount) forks will not fit your clamps, the fork legs on those are 53 mm top and bottom - yours are 51 mm top and 53 mm lower like the Gen 2s and V4s, and the Shiver (same triples).
    All Ohlins for Aprilias are 51 mm top and 56 mm bottom.


    I think the Dorsoduro has forks upwards of 780 mm long and the clamps are 51 mm top and 55 mm bottom.
    The Shiver forks are 765 mm long, and have a similar separated damping setup to the Mana; different weight oils in each leg do indeed help to tame the damping on that bike.
    Does anyone know how long the Mana forks are?

    Luckily the front axle is the same on all of these bikes, and the discs are the same mount as well (different offset for bikes with the axial calipers).


    I would suggest that it would be easier to get cartridges unless you really want the brake upgrade.
    2009 Shiver (White) | UK

  11. #11
    apriliaforum expert AndyT's Avatar
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    There seems to be some sort of synergy going on as I saw a Mana GT on the Aprilia Mana 850 Facebook group with Dorsoduro 1200 forks in it. I've no idea what mods have been done to make the swap and they seem to be set at full height so must make the bike feel very reluctant to turn in due to the height increase at the front and therefore the longer rake, but the guy says the bike is more comfortable as a result.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    2009 Mana GT ABS; Andreani fork cartridges with uprated springs; Dorsoduro hand guards and heated grips; 30mm handlebar risers; Digital tachograph: Modified woodcraft folding brake pedal; R&G frame sliders

  12. #12
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    Possibly a Dorsoduro 750 lower clamp.

    The 750 factory used the 1200 forks, but didn't have unique triples - they were the same as the standard 750.

    The 1200 uses different head bearings to accommodate a larger 35mm diameter stem, the same as the Gen 2 RSV and V4s have. The Mana and Shiver / Dorso 750 are all 25 mm stems. The Shiver and Mana triples are the same parts, so it's possible the Dorso 750 stem is the same length - if not, you could always press out the Dorso stem and press in a Mana / Shiver one.


    An "adventurised" Mana would have been so easy for Aprilia, and it doesn't look bad at all!
    2009 Shiver (White) | UK

  13. #13
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    Changing oil in the Mana forks to alter damping is not all that effective.

    I changed the left (Rebound) damping side to 10w, and kept the right (Compression) damping side at 5W as originally supplied.

    The rebound damping is stronger, but still not enough. Unfortunately, the Rebound side does not have enough oil flow-through under compression, as this change to heavier oil has also increased the compression damping. The upshot is that when you hit a concrete seam the front end still rises up or extends AFTER the bump, which is a sign of insufficient rebound damping.

    The increased compression damping is noticeable when travelling over small ripples. Where the previous, factory set-up of 5W in each side would result in the softly-sprung fork absorbing those bumps, now it does not, you feel every one. ;-)

    I imagine that two Rebound cartridges would be just right - you must have more rebound than compression damping, in the order of 2 or 3 times the compression damping effect, to stop that wallowing effect.

    The rear shock, although it is adjustable for damping, gives a similar result because adjusting the Rebound damping using the slotted adjuster also affects the Compression damping. Because the ratio between the two is not great enough you also get a similar wallowing effect at the rear.

    The upshot is that the bike has predictable, wallowy suspension at both ends. It's OK for a Tourer, but is not quite good enough for a Sport-tourer.

  14. #14
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    With my Shiver (similar setup) I started at 15w in the rebound leg (7.5 in the comp. leg), then 20w (back to 5 comp.) and would have gone further if I hadn't swapped to V4 forks. Each change was an improvement.

    The compression circuit unfortunately is very crude; even though it was improved, mine was a bit crashy until it warmed up a bit some miles into a ride, but the rebound damping would fade away almost completely on track (needs a track-spec fork oil, like a shock oil).

    The Shiver's shock has a similar imbalance to the damping, from what you're saying, and it should really just be replaced.
    2009 Shiver (White) | UK

  15. #15
    apriliaforum prov-nov Gdaz's Avatar
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    I wrote up my Mana front end Gen 1 Tuono version a couple of years back. Search the forum using the title below for the how to and the things you'll need to do;
    Mana and Gen 1 Tuono front end conversion
    2013 Aprilia Shiver 750, Pearl white ABS - stock for the moment. Before that;
    Mana 850
    Moto Guzzi V11
    Moto Guzzi V7 Racer
    Moto Guzzi Le Mans MkIV 1000

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