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Thread: Valve check/adjustment procedure

  1. #1
    apriliaforum Member Skipbarberman's Avatar
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    Valve check/adjustment procedure

    I'm sorry.....I've looked all over, searched for hours, every link seems to be broken. I 've bought the manuals (that I seem to continually struggle with), the Aprilia specialty tools (not sure how to even use AP0240880), and have everything including the TBs out of the way. I've done this on a multitude of shim-under-bucket bikes, so not afraid to 'dive-in', but want to use my purchased tools and do it correctly, so I can learn the 'Aprilia way'

    Can anyone help a brother out.....I'm really irritated. Thanks in advance for anyone who can lend a hand.

  2. #2
    apriliaforum Member Skipbarberman's Avatar
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    I know there is no dedicated section on HOW TO DO VALVE CHECK/ADJUSTMENT, but there should be. V990 Engine manual 3.8.8 tells me next to nothing.

  3. #3
    apriliaforum expert northern phil's Avatar
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    That special tool is the crank locking pin, and unnecessary for checking shims.
    remove valve cover, rotate engine by hand to get cam lobes pointing away from buckets. insert feeler guage, if ok hurrah. If not remove cams, remove bucket, change shim, reassemble, recheck clearances. Done, put back together

  4. #4
    apriliaforum expert Janky's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by northern phil View Post
    That special tool is the crank locking pin, and unnecessary for checking shims.
    remove valve cover, rotate engine by hand to get cam lobes pointing away from buckets. insert feeler guage, if ok hurrah. If not remove cams, remove bucket, change shim, reassemble, recheck clearances. Done, put back together
    Exactly...
    .

    Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk
    Janky

  5. #5
    apriliaforum expert locknload's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skipbarberman View Post
    I'm sorry.....I've looked all over, searched for hours, every link seems to be broken. I 've bought the manuals (that I seem to continually struggle with), the Aprilia specialty tools (not sure how to even use AP0240880), and have everything including the TBs out of the way. I've done this on a multitude of shim-under-bucket bikes, so not afraid to 'dive-in', but want to use my purchased tools and do it correctly, so I can learn the 'Aprilia way'

    Can anyone help a brother out.....I'm really irritated. Thanks in advance for anyone who can lend a hand.
    Dont know if there is anything in this that will help

    https://youtu.be/yc2rog63YFU

  6. #6
    apriliaforum expert TeddyG's Avatar
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    A word of advice about that video- do not advance the engine from the rear wheel and instead use a 14mm hex on the crank for a smoother controlled rotation. At TDC on each head the crank locking bolt will seat into a grooved channel on the flywheel and will lock the engine in place- you'll feel the bolt tip seat into position very slightly. Take pictures of everything, note the odd firing order, label the parts, and of course stuff a rag into the open engine cavity if you adjust the valves. I have the shim kit in case you need some. Amauri is the man and posted info on the adjusting procedure and the factory engine rebuilding manual also helps.
    Last edited by TeddyG; 03-11-2019 at 11:17 AM.

  7. #7
    apriliaforum Member Skipbarberman's Avatar
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    TeddyG - THANK YOU. I did watch that video, and while he seems like a nice and knowledgeable gentleman, I'm not to inclined to view that video as the 'de-facto standard'. I figured out from one of the posts I re-read, the AF1 crank lock tool had a picture on the page, and figured that piece out. I very much appreciate the detail on what to look/listen for when using the tool.

    I bought a shim kit from AF1 last year, as I have a Futura with 25k miles on it that is next in line after this, but sincerely appreciate the offer. Odd firing order?...it's a twin. I must be missing something there, thinking LT1, LS1. Already have the TBs off, cleaned them up, and rags stuffed into the intake ports....will do the same on the engine. The thought of pulling a motor apart because you dropped a shim in a crankcase has always scared the hell out of me.

    While I know Amauri is 'the man' and helped me many times, I'll have to revisit his posts to find the procedure piece. I found the posts where it appears he helped you, maybe go revisit those again. Thanks again for the reply, very much appreciated.

  8. #8
    apriliaforum expert kzmille's Avatar
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    This is America. Use your turn signals or WE WILL KILL YOU - remember Sandra Bland

  9. #9
    apriliaforum Member Skipbarberman's Avatar
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    It's all becoming clearer now. Thanks TeddyG. Reset, re-read the posts below, feeling a lot better about this now. Just had to acclimate. Once I complete this the first time, I'm sure it'll seem simple. That cam template tool was a bitch to figure out, and doesn't seem to actually 'fit' over the lobes. Probably because the tensioners are still in/on

    https://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/...lve+adjustment
    https://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/...alignment+tool

    Exhaust seem to be tighter than intake @9900 mi, (.008 - .009) I suspect it's never been done before.

  10. #10
    apriliaforum expert TeddyG's Avatar
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    I was careful as possible while doing mine but neglected to photo the rear head after doing the front head, so after doing both I had no way of being certain the timing was still good (turns out it wasn't). After doing the front I forgot to reinsert the timing chain tensioner and the chain must've slipped as I advanced the motor and caused the timing problem. The odd firing sequence Kzmille correctly posted added to my confusion and I had to suffer the humiliation (and cost) of taking into a shop. I'm sure you'll do fine-

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