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Thread: Rear grip

  1. #1
    apriliaforum expert
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    New Zealand

    Rear grip

    Having an issue with rear grip on my 16 RSV4.

    I was running the wheel base quite long (at end of adjustment) and we shortened it 15 mm in the pursuit of more agility.

    Iíve had a lay off of 6 months but back in the bike with this new setting Iím noticing a big lack of rear grip at lean angle getting back on the gas.

    Wondering if this change is the contributor to this. Anyone have opinions?

  2. #2
    apriliaforum Member dazo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Minneapolis, MN
    It seems reasonable to me that a shorter wheelbase would do that.

    I recently switched from the Dunlop 200/55 to the 200/60 and a lot of other riders who made the same switch had to change the geometry of their bikes to get rear grip again with the new profile putting the bike on its nose, taking weight off the rear. Some of the changes they made were lowering the rear and raising the front. I would try those options if lengthening the wheelbase is no longer an option.

  3. #3
    apriliaforum expert
    Join Date
    Nov 2016

    on the ‘16 bike, we ran lengthened swinging arm plus fork extensions.

    basically we made a long and high bike, long as in wheelbase then lifted the whole bike up to get back some agility due to the higher CG

    if you are switching out rear sprockets depending on track this could influence the setup, we found all season that 41/42/43/44 rear and stayed with 15 front, this only effected wheelbase by 5mm roughly and so we did not need to play with the height via the shock length, we did this with the links,

    you can also get some duel linkage rods built up from a machine shop with +/- 0.5 variable length from stock, it’s a faster switch out than the shock’’

    Many people jack up the rear and have the bike on its nose, but extreme cases you can be scrubbing the front due to bad geometry like dazo,is saying too with the profile

    Previous bikes : AR50 - AR80 - CB250N - RD350LC - RGV250 - VT400 - TDR250 - VIRAGO 535 - RF600 - RF900 - CBR600 - GSXR750 - TL1000R - T160 TRIUMPH - R1 - PIAGGIO - R6 - RC30 - 916SPS - VFR800 - 675 DAYTONA - CBR600RR - TL1000R - YZF750 - RSV4 FACTORY.

  4. #4
    apriliaforum expert
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    New Zealand
    Thanks guys for the info. This site is great.

    We ended up keeping the shorter wheelbase but dropping the rear shock length right down to 313mm, with 4mm showing on the forks.

    Not a typical setup for these bikes, but the turning is excellent and we are getting grip back. Will be interesting to see where we end up.

  5. #5
    apriliaforum Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    I have found my 16.5 that grip and steering is better with the wheel in right in the middle. Of course the rest of the geometry also plays into it. I run 116mm shock length, 2 lines on forks and 25mm offset with old shock links. Will be trying the red links in a few weeks, weather permitting

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