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Thread: North of England - Wheel Building

  1. #1
    apriliaforum prov-nov
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    North of England - Wheel Building

    When I was washing the Capo last week I noticed one of the spokes in the front wheel sticking out through a hole in the front disc. I thought that I heard something go 'plink' on a ride a few days before - oops! I know that there is a guy who comes recommended in Devon who builds these kind of tubeless wheels. The wheel seems generally okay, though one or two of the spokes either side of the missing one do offer a duller sound than they should when tapped with a spanner. I have got hold of some spare spokes, nipples and dowels via a supplier - is there anyone in the North that could attempt inserting the new spoke and tightening the others? I've tried to extract the old nipple but it's seized solid with rust, even after a dousing with GT85 won't budge a milli. Might have to invest in some maul grips. I suspect that the other nipples on the front wheel are in a similar state; nipples in rear wheel in a much better cond thanks to regular dousings with Scottoil. Wheel still seems fairly true as a whole, but i don't want to ride it too much in its current state. Thanks in advance for any leads.

  2. #2
    apriliaforum expert nerald's Avatar
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    There is a grub screw in the end of the nipple which may hamper removal, although i think its there to lock the spoke tension. You may need to punch the nipple out from the hub side if its really stuck.
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  3. #3
    apriliaforum expert haga lout's Avatar
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    When I did my wheels I had ss nipples made as it's the only bit that's crap

  4. #4
    apriliaforum prov-nov
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    Thanks guys. I'll have a go at bashing the nipple out with a hammer when I'm next at home - my favourite way of fixing machinery. I hope it works out better than my previous work on the bike with this tool. S steel nipple rebuild for the whole wheel would be nice, but I'd probably go there only if the whole wheel was irrecoverably knackered - if i do I'll make sure every surface is doused with GT85 and / or grease before assembly. I have mortally rounded off the grub screw with my allen key wrench, so some form of brute force will be required now I think, cheers ...

  5. #5
    apriliaforum expert haga lout's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Krooko View Post
    Thanks guys. I'll have a go at bashing the nipple out with a hammer when I'm next at home - my favourite way of fixing machinery. I hope it works out better than my previous work on the bike with this tool. S steel nipple rebuild for the whole wheel would be nice, but I'd probably go there only if the whole wheel was irrecoverably knackered - if i do I'll make sure every surface is doused with GT85 and / or grease before assembly. I have mortally rounded off the grub screw with my allen key wrench, so some form of brute force will be required now I think, cheers ...
    Drill down the middle of the Allen screw that's how I got some of mine out

  6. #6
    apriliaforum expert brmbrm's Avatar
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    Have you tried a spare torx drive?
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  7. #7
    apriliaforum expert BigSteve's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Krooko View Post
    Thanks guys................ I'd probably go there only if the whole wheel was irrecoverably knackered - ...
    Have PM'd you.
    (2003 Infinity Blue Capo) - Leo Vince x3 Cans/K&N Air filter/Snorkle-less/Catfish Map/ZX-6R FH016 Mosphet Rectifier/Front Coils re-located/Metal Fuel CRC Fixings/Brown Connector-less/Hyperpro Springs F&R/Rear Hugger/R&G Heated Grips/Krauser Alloy Panniers/Givi G45 Box/BMW GS1150 HandGuards with Touratech Extensions/Kawasaki Z1000 Mirrors/CREE LED's/Wilks Raid Rep Sump Guard & aprilia Crash Bars + Lots of Stickers..
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  8. #8
    apriliaforum prov-nov
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    Thanks again for the tips. Will have another go at the seized nipple with a torx drive, having bought a set for my SEAT car, hadn't thought of that and a drill - failing that it'll be maul grips or the hammer. The episode has reminded me of the need to tap around the spokes with a spanner after every long ride to see if any are failing to give a proper ring - this way I'll hopefully spot any issues before spokes end up lodged in my front disc again. Next year I may be taking a trip to Devon if more intervention is required ...

  9. #9
    apriliaforum prov-nov
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    Well, the seized nipple responded to a new set of Stanley maul grips from the builders merchant down the road - marvellous things, if a little pricey. New nipple, spoke and dowl installed, doused in 3-in-1 - new spoke tuned to play a similar note to those around it. I'll know how to tackle this in future if it happens again.
    Now to move on to a replacement number plate light - the original one fell off the bike. Have bought a new wire connectiion also as the old one has rotted away. Is the connection under the rear top plate / under the tool kit compartment? I thought i'd ask before removing my Givi top box rails, which I'd rather leave in situ. Thanks in advance for any pointers, and sorry again to ask the obvious.

  10. #10
    apriliaforum Junkie bkmo's Avatar
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    If you remove the two top bolts holding the rear fender you can usually pivot it down to access the connections. I have factory side case brackets that are attached to the top bolts, but do not keep you from moving the fender down.
    2002 Capo Wilbers rear shock, Wilbers front progressive springs, Metal fuel connectors, polaris sh775 series regulator direct wired, silicone vacuum lines, catfish map, CNC clutch slave, autoelectrics coils (2)sides, Triumph Denso 3990's centers, k&n air filter, all LED lighting, SS brake and clutch lines, Givi tall screen, Triumph tiger 955i mirrors, dual horns. Pure copper 4 gauge battery cables. Rox risers.

  11. #11
    apriliaforum prov-nov
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    Quote Originally Posted by bkmo View Post
    If you remove the two top bolts holding the rear fender you can usually pivot it down to access the connections. I have factory side case brackets that are attached to the top bolts, but do not keep you from moving the fender down.
    Thank you Bkmo! I will investigate this. I have been riding the old girl around without the number plate light and I really need to get this sorted now that the light is geeting worse in the pm. Annoyingly also, the brake light sensor on the front handlebar lever is sticking so the light often stays on even after the lever returns on its spring - I have to push the brake lever away from the bar manually after braking to turn the light off, grrr. This may sort itself out when the pads wear down a little hopefully, we'll see ...

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