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Thread: Pressure oil Lights up

  1. #31
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    Hm ... i am wondering for 2 things
    1the smoke that came from the air hoses and
    2 for the noise that the starter does

    It's seems to me that there is a head gasket problem with losing water inside the cylinder causing the starter to spin with difficulty

    Ps the smoke came out of the air hoses i bet that is water or paraflu

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  2. #32
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    Hi,

    The head gasket is new and the head has been repair and tested, but we never now...

    There is a easy way find if water is inside of cylinder?

    regards
    Last edited by samuelpsousa; 03-14-2019 at 04:59 AM.

  3. #33
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    Hello,

    one more help please in tdc lock the flying wheel is in the correct position see in photo.

    Untitled by Samuel Sousa, on Flickr

    Camshaft position
    Untitled by Samuel Sousa, on Flickr

    Camshaft movement


    The noise is my air compressor working

    Regards,
    Last edited by samuelpsousa; 03-14-2019 at 04:36 PM.

  4. #34
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    Take out the spark plug and look down the hole with an endoscope. They're very cheap to buy as an attachment for your smart 'phone these days.

    If your crank is locked in the TDC position, something is not correct with your cam timing. The lines on the cam sprockets should be absolutely parallel with the top of the cylinder head. I suggest you may be one tooth out... whatever the cause though, something is not right.

    Cheers... Paul

  5. #35
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    Thank you again!

    I will see this and try align the sprockets.
    And the flying wheel is ok?

    Regards

  6. #36
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    Update

    Hello,
    Bike works.. But when i stop the engine it only start when i take off the spark and put again nothing do more.
    Any ideas?The carbs have been cleaned.

    Regards,

  7. #37
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    I suggest you consider replacing your spark plug, cable and plug cap. Something isn't right!

    Cheers... Paul

  8. #38
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    Exactly

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  9. #39
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    Hello,

    The spark is new, but the cable and spark cap no.

    I will try this.

    Can you tell me the resistence off spark cap?

    Regards,
    Last edited by samuelpsousa; 03-29-2019 at 05:50 AM.

  10. #40
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    1KOhm nominally.

    Don't discount the possibility that the plug is faulty even if it is new. I've bought NGK parts before which failed immediately. It's rare, but it happens... and more so if you've fitted something silly like a Brisk 'racing' plug. Once you've replaced the cable and cap, if the problem is still there, try an old plug, or another new one, just to eliminate the possibility of issues there.

    Cheers... Paul

  11. #41
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    Hello,

    after a long journey my Pegaso start again.
    The trouble was only the battery.
    Thank you again for help you have giving to me without this the bikes nevers start again.

    the last thing I need to do is fine tuning the mixture of carburettors. Need some help here, I read somewhere something like this to fine tuning warm up the bike, start with 2 turns of mixture screw regulate the idle to 1500 rpm rotate the mixture screw until bike stay at to 2000 rpm now regulate the other to 2500 rpm and put the idle into 1500 rpm again. Is like this?
    regards

  12. #42
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    It's funny to re-read your earlier comment about non-starting. For me, 'starting' means to make the engine run by itself. For you, I think starting means cranking... or turning the engine with the starter motor. Not the same! With your definition, your earlier statement makes total sense... but it also makes sense with my definition! Which led me to suggest a new spark plug... which was clearly wrong if your real problem was the engine would not crank unless the plug was out.

    As for idle adjustment, your target is to have a stable and smooth idle speed at 1400rpm. No misfires, a good response to opening the throttle, and a quick return to idle when you close the throttle. There are many ways to do this. I normally adjust the throttle stop to give the target idle speed and 'blip' the throttle. If it is too lean, you will normally have a short hesitation on opening the throttle and a slow return to idle on closing the throttle. So open the fuel screw a little to avoid the problem. This may reduce or increase your idle speed, so return it back to the target speed and blip the throttle again. Keep making it richer until the hesitation goes away, and it returns to idle quickly. Too rich is more difficult to spot easily. If you suspect it is too rich at idle (you never need to use choke when cold, black smoke at idle, 'fluffy' throttle response at low throttle openings when riding to give a few examples of the symptoms), try closing the fuel screw a little, adjust back to the target idle speed then blip the throttle. If it accelerates well, and doesn't take a long time to return to idle, close the fuel screw just a little more. Keep doing this in small steps (1/8 turn of the fuel screw each time is usually OK) until you begin to get hesitation on throttle opening or a slow return to idle... then go back to your previous setting.

    On the Pegaso, the mixture screws on the base of the carbs adjust the AIR quantity, not fuel quantity at idle. The principle is the same though. Start the procedure with the air screws set to 2 turns out from fully in, then always adjust them the same amount each time you make a change.

    Cheers... Paul

  13. #43
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    Hi to all
    I head the same problem as regards the pressure oil light with exactly the same symptoms and eventually the problem was solved when i setup the mixture correctly

    It was too rich 13ltr/100klm causing the unburned fuel mixed with the oil because it can not be compressed so it was finding way out through the lower space of the piston causing the viscosity of the oil to fail

    Pegaso 650ie 2001

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