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Thread: Latest coil recommendations?

  1. #46
    apriliaforum expert deefred's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Sweden, Linköping
    Quote Originally Posted by Motech View Post
    No, not a ballast resistor, an internal resistor. Don't know where it's at, never had desire to cut one open, but it's pretty significant if I recall.
    Have you seen a solution like that for any stick coil?
    Seems like a piss-poor design to use a resistor for a stick coil.
    Then the coil and ECM is poorly matched together from the beginning.
    2001 RST Futura in stream Silver.
    Mods: Modified Öhlins fork from mille R, EBC brake discs, HEL front brakelines, Carbon RS 250 front fender, Wiring mod for charging. Engine related:05 map, Iridium plugs, tuneboy, derestriced intake, old mille airboot, staintunes exhaust. Lambda bung hardbrazed in the "breadbox". Öhlins mille R rear shock with 110N/mm spring and the integrated hydraulic preload adjuster. LED Voltmeter installed inside the dash for monitoring charging. Duc 999 radial m/c for brake and clutch. EBC 320mm brake discs
    NWS hugger. Equipment: Famsa tankbag,
    CBR 600 -07 MOSFET R&R FH008EE providing stable 14.4 - 14.5 V (with my wiring mod). Daytona heated grips with mccoi pwm controller and automatic chain oiler

  2. #47
    apriliaforum expert rblue02's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Blueridge GA, USA
    Well, the primary coil winding has a real resistance as a function of wire diameter and length.
    This resistance is mostly parasitic and would not normally impact primary current until the primary inductance saturates.
    The primary resistance is not normally used to limit coil current. (maybe ancient ign's)
    This is done via dwell timing (called ramp & fire) or by active current limiting at the coil driver.

    Therefore, a better 'coil primary' parameter for finding an alternate coil is max current before saturation.
    Unfortunately, nobody provides this spec.

    It would be great if someone O-scoped the primary current of a CBR coil in a Futura.
    If the primary current charging ramp stays nearly linear, then we would know at least the coil primary
    won't damage the coil driver.
    Last edited by rblue02; 12-03-2017 at 11:09 AM.

  3. #48
    apriliaforum prov-nov Kennibear's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Washington State USA
    Try MagnaCor for wires to hook up the AutoElectric coils as they make specific sets for the Futura and Capo to use these coils directly. Very plug and play and they are the Rolls Royce IMHO of ignition wires. Mine were $85 delivered and their tech line is knowledgeable and will set you strait on what you need. The Tech I talked to knew all about the Ape's with AutoElectric coils. These coils are direct mount to the spark plug normally so the wire end is unique. I am too time short to fool with ignition wire mods to hack a solution. My spare time is better spent fabricating an exhibition laser stop light projector to illuminate to ground behind me with three diffraction grating 30mw lasers to startle the stupid four tire types following me too close.....


  4. #49
    apriliaforum newb
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Northern Virginia
    I see that Magnecor (I think that's who you meant, with an 'e' -- offer those wires in three sizes: 7mm, 8mm, and 8.5mm. What size did you purchase/did they recommend?


  5. #50
    apriliaforum prov-nov Kennibear's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Washington State USA
    I believe the Aprilia sets are 8mm maximum as stocked. As I recall the 8.5mm wires are custom order. I bought the largest in stock wire they had.


  6. #51
    apriliaforum prov-nov Kennibear's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Washington State USA
    Just checked my purchase records and it was set #2596 for the '01-'07 Capo. That is a 8.5mm wire set. I was mistaken, it is the 10mm that is custom. I stand corrected.


    Sent from my E6833 using Tapatalk

  7. #52
    apriliaforum prov-nov FuturaWales's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Neath, Wales
    Just by way of update. Finally fitted the coils I fettled from a PSA V6.
    They work great, although time will tell how long they last. Combustion feels much tighter and stronger than before so they were clearly playing up and I hadn't even noticed! Suppose that's a handy feature.

    The old coils do just break apart and you can retrieve the copper contact. This presses into place in the new coil easily but needs to be held in place due to different design. I opted for JBweld for now. I'll see how it holds up to the vibration.
    I also used fiat HT leads, which I cut down on the end so that they fit over the shorter coil nose.

    I transferred the plastic LT head of the original coils to the new ones as well. Instead of trying to trim the plastic. That has worked great. And similarly as you need to break the plastic tabs to get the head off I just JBwelded that back on too.
    All taped up with electrical insulation tape now for waterproofing, as I think that's what's killed the old ones.
    Of the 4 used coils I bought, 2 got destructed whilst figuring all this out. So now I'm going to buy 2 brand new v6 coils from ECP, and do the same mods to those. I fitted the 2 good ones I've made to the front cylinder and put it all back together with just 1 old coil running the top plug at the back. It ran pretty well. So with the 2 new ones at the back it'll be spot on and I'll finally be able to ride again.

    Bike has been parked up since November sadly because of this so now I need to give it a once over and get it back on the road for spring. I'm not a fair weather biker by any stretch but part of me is glad it's been off the road because it's been absolutely foul here in South wales lately.

    Goretex or not, I'd have been wet, or sliding on ice lol.

    Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk
    2002 Flame red RST1000 Futura
    StainTunes Exhaust
    Wilbers Rear Shock (high/low rebound and preload adjustable)
    Brown plug removed - 13.9v currently
    05 map (staintunes with baffles)
    DIN/Hella 12v power outlet
    X-grip phone holder with built in charger

  8. #53
    apriliaforum Member Ollie B's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Newcastle-Upon-Tyne, UK
    I've also just finished replacing the coils. It was easier than I was expecting. I used the tried and tested method of the Citroen/Renault V6 coil as above, but used a 30mm length of threaded copper rod secured with JB weld to the contact at the business end of the coil.

    HT leads from a fiat fit directly and securely on to that and replaced the stiff and crunchy originals. This way you can keep a couple of the old coils as backups as the fiat leads also fit to the standard coils.

    Many thanks to those of you who did the investigation into what fits and how.
    2003 Futura, blue.
    Mods: metal fuel QD, FH020AA R/R, K&N, airbox mod, GPR exhausts, R&G, starter solenoid upgraded, FPR mod, top box rack, side stand, 05 map, fuel tank drains plugged, ignition coils and leads, Oxford heated grips.
    Previously: ZX6R 636, Firestorm VTR 1000, ZZR600, KR-1.

  9. #54
    apriliaforum prov-nov bisy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Melbourne, Australia
    Quote Originally Posted by Motech View Post
    I am in total agreement. There's a reason these systems were designed with diode-suppressed coil primary circuits, and as the ECU pulls that trigger, the diodes are likely to protect it. I shudder to think that all those CBR coil upgrades might be slowly killing the ECU coil drivers, and one day could cause a glut of ECU demand.

    You think the king bearing price rape is bad...
    Yes my dealer quoted $2400.00 for a new ecu

    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

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