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Thread: 2017 Tuono RF Hot Temp Stalling

  1. #1
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    2017 Tuono RF Hot Temp Stalling

    I just took delivery of my tuono 2017 rf this weekend. Trying to put some miles on her. It runs really hot compares to other bikes I have owned. 220f to 225f. The problem I kept having it is when I am approaching to a stop. I downshifted from second to first. The bike just stall and dead. I am cruising to the stop. And try to fire back up. It won't hold the idle and stall. And it keep choking a bit and dead.she won't fire up again until maybe a couple tries. I always have to rev up just so the engine won't choke and die. Anyone else experience this problem? I live in Texas so the heat is probably not helping but I am not sure if this the root cause. Any input would be nice.

    She had about 150 miles. I am a little upset with Aprilia. I am taking her back to the dealer tomorrow but I kind of wanted to hear from real owner about this. I have a couple of video recorded by go pro. I will try to upload them and update the thread.
    Last edited by TuonoHtown; 10-09-2017 at 02:07 AM.

  2. #2
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    There is a map update for the stalling...make sure the dealer does it. If you are in Texas I would go to AF1 and be done, lol. As far as the heat goes, the bike does not like stop and go traffic and it will get hot. Its a high performance bike that needs airflow.

  3. #3
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    Just took delivery of my 2017 Tuono in Houston and rode it to lake Travis in Austin. It stalled 4-5 times on my way to destination (about 3.5 hrs), mostly in jammed Friday afternoon traffic in Austin at about 10-20 MPH. Annoying to say the least, the bike has 200 miles or so right now. In one place in Austin there was a bad jam and a bit uphill I think, the bike got up to 243F with temperature indicator flashing and red warning light on. Not very pleasant feeling. It was balls hot today, probably in the 90s (33 C), but it is an ordinary day in Texas summer and fall..

    coming from S1000R these issues are new to me, I am loving the bike so far and getting used to it more and more, but these things will need to be resolved especially stalling. The plan is to go Akra with race ECU after 600 mile, hopefully the new map will fix some of it..

  4. #4
    apriliaforum expert Akumu's Avatar
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    It amazing to me that dealers just sell off these bikes without updating the map to the latest version that's been out for, oh, say, MONTHS NOW. (They fix the stalling issue.) Just...staggering.

  5. #5
    apriliaforum expert Jaybe's Avatar
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    Is not the map that is causing the hot stall its the charcoal/evap canister I had the same problem on mine after the map removing the charcoal fixed it and also cured my fuel tank pressure problem.
    Current bike

    V4 1100 Factory 2017

    If you have anything good to say shut the fuck up!

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jaybe View Post
    Is not the map that is causing the hot stall its the charcoal/evap canister I had the same problem on mine after the map removing the charcoal fixed it and also cured my fuel tank pressure problem.
    Is there a guide to removal Jay, tried search but did not find anything.. seen plenty recommend so seems the way to go, or is it just a simple remove and join hoses??

  7. #7
    apriliaforum expert Akumu's Avatar
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    It seems the map is the problem for some stalling, and I guess the charcoal can for some others. (Many can attest to this on these forums for the former, the latter seems to be something fewer have to deal with.)

  8. #8
    apriliaforum expert Jaybe's Avatar
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    CRFan1

    apriliaforum JunkieJoin DateJul 2017LocationNorthwest IndianaPosts492


    Originally Posted by Blackfin
    I've looked at my 17 Factory and often wondered if part of the reason the thing runs so hot in traffic is because of the placement of the canister on the left-side and the exhaust servo on the right side; both seem to effectively block airflow from the back-side of the rad.

    What steps were required to remove the thing?



    The servo on the right and the canister on the left, IMO, definitely play a part in the lack of cooling on this bike especially with the fans on. There is just nowhere for the air to go!

    Basic steps were the following:

    - Remove front and rear seat
    - Remove left tank side cover
    - Remove left front side panel
    - Unbolt canister holder assembly from frame
    - Cut ty-wraps holding canister to holder assembly
    - I cut the lines above the clamp on the canister
    - Remove canister and pop the clamp on the rear most vent hose on the gas tank and pull hose off the nipple
    - Curse, cuss and swear as you try and pull the vent line with the check valve out from the rear.
    - Put a bolt in the smaller line that was on the canister and clamp it or use a ty-wrap. Make sure the bolt fits snugly. route the line and secure with the wires that are there.
    - Remove the connectors from the canister holder and secure connectors neatly with the other wires in the area.
    - Cut vent line to appropriate length and re-install on tank vent nipple and route straight down with the fuel overflow vent. I routed it right behind the sprocket guard behind the sprocket cover (perfect place) and secured with a couple ty-wraps.
    - Cut the majority of the canister holder (I just used a hack saw) and leave the part that mounts under the frame bolts that says V4 on it and maybe a bit that goes around the frame (it will be self explanatory).
    - Put everything back together and enjoy a cooler running, non-tank pressurizing bike, lol.


    Current bike

    V4 1100 Factory 2017

    If you have anything good to say shut the fuck up!

  9. #9
    apriliaforum expert Jaybe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by freddy871 View Post
    Is there a guide to removal Jay, tried search but did not find anything.. seen plenty recommend so seems the way to go, or is it just a simple remove and join hoses??
    Took me 30 seconds to find and I know there are more ! You must try to search harder

    Current bike

    V4 1100 Factory 2017

    If you have anything good to say shut the fuck up!

  10. #10
    apriliaforum expert Jaybe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Akumu View Post
    It seems the map is the problem for some stalling, and I guess the charcoal can for some others. (Many can attest to this on these forums for the former, the latter seems to be something fewer have to deal with.)

    There are differences from UK to Euro to USA etc also different fuel quality etc. I personally had a few hot stall start issues from new and also every time I filled up I put the key in and turned and the cap popped off. My dealer looked at the routing of my breather pipes as theyve had a few nipped into the fairing bolts before but after leaving my bike for a day back in July they installed the latest update and confirmed that the charcoal can was my issue. No problems since no popping fuel cap. Unless you are going to be prosecuted for removing it I would get well rid!

    Current bike

    V4 1100 Factory 2017

    If you have anything good to say shut the fuck up!

  11. #11
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    My plan is to go catless Akra, race ECU and canister delete at 600 miles. I get it this will fix the issue of stalling and hopefully help with the overheating

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by thorny View Post
    Just took delivery of my 2017 Tuono in Houston and rode it to lake Travis in Austin. It stalled 4-5 times on my way to destination (about 3.5 hrs), mostly in jammed Friday afternoon traffic in Austin at about 10-20 MPH. Annoying to say the least, the bike has 200 miles or so right now. In one place in Austin there was a bad jam and a bit uphill I think, the bike got up to 243F with temperature indicator flashing and red warning light on. Not very pleasant feeling. It was balls hot today, probably in the 90s (33 C), but it is an ordinary day in Texas summer and fall..

    coming from S1000R these issues are new to me, I am loving the bike so far and getting used to it more and more, but these things will need to be resolved especially stalling. The plan is to go Akra with race ECU after 600 mile, hopefully the new map will fix some of it..
    Take it back to your dealer before you mod anything. There is a difference between running hot and overheating. These bikes run hot, but overheating is not normal. Stalling is not normal either. I hope dealers are reporting these problems and Aprilia is investigating, because excessive heat and stalling seems to be a frequent issue with 2017 models.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by sportyrider View Post
    Take it back to your dealer before you mod anything. There is a difference between running hot and overheating. These bikes run hot, but overheating is not normal. Stalling is not normal either. I hope dealers are reporting these problems and Aprilia is investigating, because excessive heat and stalling seems to be a frequent issue with 2017 models.
    Yes, definitely. I will have the dealer do the checks and mods afterwards.

  14. #14
    apriliaforum Junkie Blackfin's Avatar
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    Mine stalled a couple of times when new as I rode it home from the dealer. I was a a little nonplussed but it soon stopped doing that on its own.

    To me this suggests the ECU is "learning" an idle parameter or two (or ten), sort of like how your car might idle a little oddly after replacing the battery. Once learned, the ECU is better able to control the throttle plates when, say, coming to a stop and the stalling stops. It just seems to take a while to happen.

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