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Thread: 08 Tuono randomly stalls/dies

  1. #31
    apriliaforum newb
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    beernutt- how's that pump holding up? I know i saw a thread a while ago about a Walbro pump that may work too - anybody have thoughts? cycleworks from AF1, the walbro, or the quantum. My bike is doing the same thing as described in the thread - when it gets warm. hoses all changed in tank ... she runs great for 10 mins....

  2. #32
    apriliaforum prov-nov beernutt's Avatar
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    Marshall, my fuel issue turned out to be voltage related. My bike would run long enough for the battery voltage to drop low enough to shut the bike down because the stator was fried. The pump was not the issue. Having said that, the Quantum pump is working great, and they have excellent customer service.

    Check your voltage at idle using either a multimeter or the dash voltage reading. If you're not getting at least 13V at idle it might be time to check the reg/rec or the stator. Common problems on these bikes.

    Good luck!

  3. #33
    apriliaforum expert jess67's Avatar
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    The pump failing when it gets hot maybe an issue with the fuel pump harness. Do a search on the harness, there are a few threads regarding this.

  4. #34
    apriliaforum Junkie dfoustou's Avatar
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    not bad for the stator to last 17K; the same like mine. I installed T12 but I kept the stock regulator.
    Dionysis

    79 CX500C
    07 RSV1000R
    08 WR250R

    IBA#58777

  5. #35
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    There's a fitment thread. Just search SH847 fitment

  6. #36
    apriliaforum newb alpha_sum's Avatar
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    Is anyone aware of a rectifier test?

    My 07.5 Tuono 1000 has stalled twice recently, similar to what I have read here; decreasing throttle coming up to a traffic light. Both times I have pushed the bike to the side, key'd it off then back on and on the first push it sounds like a dead battery struggling to turn the crank. But wait a minute and it fires right up and has gotten me home both times. I guessed charging system related so accessed the brown connector, but alas, the brown connector was gone with a gob of melted electrical tape and stick-em me thinks. Anyway it looks like someone attempted the mod but instead just pulled the factory brass spade connectors out of the brown connector and reconnected them direct. It was not good workmanship and there was a lot of corrosion and build up on the electrical connections. I ended up cleaning it all up and putting butt splices in to connect the stator side of the wiring to the rectifier side of the wiring. I disconnected the wires and completed the factory stator test and all is well 65 - 72 Vac on each phase between 4000-4500 rpm. One ohm of resistance between the phases and open circuit from each phase to ground. So buttoned it all back and am wondering if the corrosion may be the culprit. See this on car battery terminals all of the time.

    Nothing to do now but take a ride close to home, but I would like to test or maybe just replace the rectifier with the preferred SH847.

    Thanks in advance!

  7. #37
    apriliaforum expert kzmille's Avatar
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    Check your voltage at the battery with the engine running. With everything in good order these bikes can show 14 volts or more. 14.25 is achievable. Mid to upper 13's is passable but 14+ is better.
    This is America. Use your turn signals or WE WILL KILL YOU

  8. #38
    apriliaforum newb alpha_sum's Avatar
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    Thanks for the tip kz! I did that test already right at the battery tender pigtail. A solid 14.2 Vdc. I would like to load test the battery but do not have much confidence in the local auto parts store. I am wondering if the battery is having an issue (no idea of how old it is as the previous owner did not have any solid records), each time the Tuono has stalled has been at low rpm. Another odd coincidence is that the stalls (twice) did not occur until after I started using the battery tender. I do not see how that could be related but just thought it odd coincidence.

    I am hoping that the build up of corrosion on the stator to regulator spade terminals may have been enough resistance to limit the current passing through.

    Sort of a head scratcher! Any other ideas and I will test them out...

  9. #39
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    If the problem started after you messed with it, likely it has to do with whatever you messed with.

    Check to make sure your battery leads and tender leads are tight. If the nuts are loose, it can cause intermittent issues.

  10. #40
    apriliaforum expert jess67's Avatar
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    You can load test the battery on the bike. Pull the plug leads or disconnect the fuel pump so it won't start. Put your multimeter on the battery and spin the motor over for a while and see how it responds - if you get big fluctuations it maybe an indicator it's toast.

  11. #41
    apriliaforum expert kzmille's Avatar
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    Yeah, don't crank the engine with the plug leads not grounded. The easiest and safest way is to energize the starter relay remotely and do the test with the key off. Connect a volt meter across the battery and crank for 5 seconds. A healthy battery should hold 10.5 volts or more for five seconds of cranking. If it drops to near or below 10 volts the battery is weak.
    This is America. Use your turn signals or WE WILL KILL YOU

  12. #42
    apriliaforum newb alpha_sum's Avatar
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    Out of town for the week...but will try that test this weekend. You guys rock!!!

  13. #43
    apriliaforum newb alpha_sum's Avatar
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    Sorry, never followed up to close my case. Turns out the battery had a bad cell - despite testing it and thinking otherwise.

    Problem resolved with a
    Shorai LFX18A1-BS12 Extreme Rate Lithium Iron...

  14. #44
    apriliaforum expert kzmille's Avatar
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    Good deal. So many electrical problems start with a weak battery.
    This is America. Use your turn signals or WE WILL KILL YOU

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