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Thread: Futura rear brake rotor

  1. #1
    apriliaforum newb
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    Futura rear brake rotor

    I bought my 2003 Futura in 2008. It has served me well and has not been scarily expensive to maintain. The experiences shared by other Futura owners in existing threads have been valuable many times over the years. This time, I have to ask. I checked the rear brakes and found that the friction surface on the rotors was worn. Not very deep but somewhat uneven. My fault for not checking frequently enough. My photo shows me putting a straight edge up against it and shining a torch light underneath. First question - does anyone have an opinion on what's next? From others threads, I'm assuming a new rotor is next. Next question, does any one know where to get one? I found an ad from a supplier in Spain selling NG rotors, but looking at the specs, it says diameter is 220mm. That's RSV, not RST diameter. From my research thus far, it seems that unlike the front rotors, which are shared by many other makes/models and readily available, the rear rotors are unique to the RST Futura, and new ones are hard to find.

    , and it seems that replacement rotors for this bike are


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  2. #2
    apriliaforum expert Argh Oh's Avatar
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    If they're ok in thickness personally I'd just de-glaze and go with new pads. What kind of riding do you do? The rear brake usage is pretty minimal, yes?
    01 Blue #84, 11/12 with: HeliBars, foam grips, 05 map, Borla cans (Replaced by 2" pipe)/stock silencer, derestricted, metal QD, dash socket, wiring mod. Me: Ford relay +10awg & grd, fuel pump rewire, FPR, vac hoses. Evap gone, CBR coils/harness+ Magnecor, clutch switch bypass. S.S. clutch & front line, RaceTech Gold fork, Cogent rebuilt Sachs, tapered head bearings. Added LED run lights/indicators/brake. All signals also run lights. All lights but Hi/park/brake on dash switch. Hi beam mod, vest plug, wiring block, blue dash SMD's/Red V meter, Tune IFT, PCIII gone. Stripped/polished rims, vented screen, rear petal disc. FH008 soldered DC plug/added grd/hard soldered AC. L/R dash indicator lights, RG frame/fork sliders, vented screen.

  3. #3
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    Galfer - Discs, pads, hoses.


    Braking - Discs, pads, radial pumps, hoses


    EBC - Discs, pads, hoses


    TRW Lucas - Discs, pads and other things


    Brembo - You know

    AP Racing - UK


    SunStar - Discs, sprockets, chains.


    NG - Discs.


    Delta Braking - Czech - Discs, pads


    PFM -Discs, pads... http://www.west-performance.com/services/pfm-brakes/


    MOTO-MASTER - UK - Discs


    ABE - Discs

    I am sure you'll do the rest. There's plenty of options to try and I am sure your rear disc is waiting for you. Good luck!
    Futura's future depends on you, please sign the petition.I am planning to collect as much as signatures possible and send an official email to Aprilia asking them for a statement.

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  4. #4
    apriliaforum expert RAS's Avatar
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    I don't hardly ever use the back brake - if it's within spec, gonna agree with Argh - deglaze and move on.

    And the real big ugly - unless you cut the thing off, you'll have to remove the axle to replace it. Do you feel lucky?

    I think there's an EBC rotor for the Fut.

  5. #5
    apriliaforum expert spesnaz's Avatar
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    The original Futura rear rotor shows as available in 6_8 weeks from AF1. List price is $75, not too bad. I would recondition the existing disc and plan on ordering a spare.

    Dammit! Yet another spare to add to my AF1 goody list...

    Bob

  6. #6
    apriliaforum expert Argh Oh's Avatar
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    Wow, that's a huge price drop. It was $267 not long ago.
    01 Blue #84, 11/12 with: HeliBars, foam grips, 05 map, Borla cans (Replaced by 2" pipe)/stock silencer, derestricted, metal QD, dash socket, wiring mod. Me: Ford relay +10awg & grd, fuel pump rewire, FPR, vac hoses. Evap gone, CBR coils/harness+ Magnecor, clutch switch bypass. S.S. clutch & front line, RaceTech Gold fork, Cogent rebuilt Sachs, tapered head bearings. Added LED run lights/indicators/brake. All signals also run lights. All lights but Hi/park/brake on dash switch. Hi beam mod, vest plug, wiring block, blue dash SMD's/Red V meter, Tune IFT, PCIII gone. Stripped/polished rims, vented screen, rear petal disc. FH008 soldered DC plug/added grd/hard soldered AC. L/R dash indicator lights, RG frame/fork sliders, vented screen.

  7. #7
    apriliaforum expert RAS's Avatar
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    They figure in order to get at the disk, we'll be needing an axle and king bearing, so the disk just becomes a lost leader.

  8. #8
    apriliaforum expert Argh Oh's Avatar
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    Given the current cost of KB you may be correct. That's why mine comes apart a few times a year.
    01 Blue #84, 11/12 with: HeliBars, foam grips, 05 map, Borla cans (Replaced by 2" pipe)/stock silencer, derestricted, metal QD, dash socket, wiring mod. Me: Ford relay +10awg & grd, fuel pump rewire, FPR, vac hoses. Evap gone, CBR coils/harness+ Magnecor, clutch switch bypass. S.S. clutch & front line, RaceTech Gold fork, Cogent rebuilt Sachs, tapered head bearings. Added LED run lights/indicators/brake. All signals also run lights. All lights but Hi/park/brake on dash switch. Hi beam mod, vest plug, wiring block, blue dash SMD's/Red V meter, Tune IFT, PCIII gone. Stripped/polished rims, vented screen, rear petal disc. FH008 soldered DC plug/added grd/hard soldered AC. L/R dash indicator lights, RG frame/fork sliders, vented screen.

  9. #9
    apriliaforum expert spesnaz's Avatar
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    Indeed, economies of scale I guess. This weekend it's time to PM the rear end, as the wet season approaches.

    My rear rotor is fine, with Ferodo Platinum back there. Wanted to be gentle with this rotor considering the previous price...

    Bob

  10. #10
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    Thanks all. Lots of good info to work with. Regarding my rear brake usage, maybe I use it more than I thought I did. I think I use it most when I'm in congested traffic, with lots of speed variation, and soft stops. Something I should pay more attention to. So should I give the king bearing thread a good read before taking this on?


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  11. #11
    apriliaforum expert Argh Oh's Avatar
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    Yes, read it thoroughly.
    01 Blue #84, 11/12 with: HeliBars, foam grips, 05 map, Borla cans (Replaced by 2" pipe)/stock silencer, derestricted, metal QD, dash socket, wiring mod. Me: Ford relay +10awg & grd, fuel pump rewire, FPR, vac hoses. Evap gone, CBR coils/harness+ Magnecor, clutch switch bypass. S.S. clutch & front line, RaceTech Gold fork, Cogent rebuilt Sachs, tapered head bearings. Added LED run lights/indicators/brake. All signals also run lights. All lights but Hi/park/brake on dash switch. Hi beam mod, vest plug, wiring block, blue dash SMD's/Red V meter, Tune IFT, PCIII gone. Stripped/polished rims, vented screen, rear petal disc. FH008 soldered DC plug/added grd/hard soldered AC. L/R dash indicator lights, RG frame/fork sliders, vented screen.

  12. #12
    apriliaforum newb
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    Does anybody know the full specs of the rear disc - number, size and diameter of bolt holes? All I know is the outer diameter. I am trying to find if there is another bike that uses an identical spec rear disc.


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  13. #13
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    As I stumbled upon this thread many times, I will add the link to my findings:
    https://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/...oving-the-axle

    I summary, outer diameter 255mm, the inner diameter which goes through the holes is 133mm, 6 holes. With this you can search for discs. I went down 10mm on the overall diameter, to 245mm, and then you can find a lot of discs, as it's the same as many ducatis (ie. monster 600) and yamahas.

  14. #14
    apriliaforum Member kokomoto's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2wheelsurfer View Post
    Thanks all. Lots of good info to work with. Regarding my rear brake usage, maybe I use it more than I thought I did. I think I use it most when I'm in congested traffic, with lots of speed variation, and soft stops. Something I should pay more attention to. So should I give the king bearing thread a good read before taking this on?


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    I recently removed my rear axle for the first time after 54,000 miles. Mine slid out easily. Removed the KB very carefully, and serviced it prior to reinstalling it. The only thing I found sketchy was a small blemish on the race.The big needle bearing looked fine, so I put some fresh grease in it. I'll be removing the rear axle every winter to keep an eye on it. The rear shock linkage bearings were mostly shot, so I replaced them all along with the shock. They're inexpensive from AF1. Repacked all of the bearings with high quality grease. I read every post that I could find on the subject prior to disassembly. In addition to KB posts, check out the cush drive thread. Proper torque on the cush drive and axle are crucial to keeping your rear axle and KB in good shape. Keep track of the order of components as you remove them. There is a compression washer on the cush side. Note the orientation when you disassemble it.Buy good grease and use antiseize. You'll need to buy 2 good quality, large retaining ring pliers. I mean, large. As in, you probably won't find them at any local tool shop. If I remember correctly, the right side uses external, and the cush side requires internal. Breadbox removal required some persuasion, and reinstalling the swingarm was a bit frustrating. It was a relatively easy job. Hope yours is too. Some folks have had not been so fortunate.
    Walt Steele

    '02 Ash Black Futura (Wilbers, derestricted, wiring mod, FPR mod, HID headlamp, John Deere not-as-quick disconnect, Powerlet, hugger)
    '18 Royal Enfield Himalayan
    '67 Triumph TR6R

    ďSome people will tell you that slow is good Ė but Iím here to tell you that fast is better. Iíve always believed this, in spite of the trouble itís caused me. Being shot out of a cannon will always be better than being squeezed out of a tube.Ē Hunter S. Thompson

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