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Thread: Clutch Oil Jet Modification

  1. #16
    apriliaforum expert spesnaz's Avatar
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    Currently running Shell Rotella T5 in the machine, Deefred. Tried Motul, Repsol, Castrol, and the base Rotella T. She's been pretty consistent, clutch drags a wee bit more come change time.

    Bob

  2. #17
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    Canít select neutral

    Hi guys, i also canít get my falco in neutral. Is it worth changing the jet on a 2003 Falco?
    iím just getting the bike back on the road after 10years in storage, iíve Flushed and replaced all fluids except the coolent. I used Shell 15w-50 T4 oil and dot4 brake/clutch fluid (I know I should change to dot 5.1 and have some on order). I also had the gear linkage off, itís all moving fine but it may not be exactly where it was before as I forgot to mark it. Iíve also adjusted the clutch lever as the clutch was dragging.
    Anything I could try to get it back in neutral?

  3. #18
    apriliaforum expert RAS's Avatar
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    You are having trouble finding neutral or it won't go at all? Generally, you'll find that tapping the lever down from 2nd gear makes it easier especially while the bike is still moving a tad.

    There's no reason why just sitting would change the adjustment of that actuator pin in the hand lever. It's more likely you have air in the line somewhere - likely near the master at the banjo. Tipping the bike to the right or having a bleeder there helps

    Do you know if the clutch slave or lever have been replaced with aftermarket?

    There's really nothing wrong with Dot 4 fluid - especially in the clutch.

    As for that jet, never felt a need personally.

  4. #19
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    I can’t get get it in neutral at the moment, the lever and slave are stock items not aftermarket. I’m currently trying to change out the jet but having difficulty unscrewing the old jet. I have recently changed the clutch fluid and bleed it so could possibly be some air trapped but I didn’t see any bubbles i
    left in the bleed tube

  5. #20
    apriliaforum expert deefred's Avatar
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    I you cannot get it in the neutral at all. the oil jet is not your problem.
    2001 RST Futura in stream Silver.
    Mods: Modified ÷hlins fork from mille R, EBC 320mm brake discs, HEL front brakelines, Carbon RS 250 front fender, Wiring mod for charging. Engine related:05 map, Iridium plugs, tuneboy, derestriced intake, old mille airboot, staintunes exhaust. Lambda bung hardbrazed in the "breadbox". ÷hlins mille R rear shock with 110N/mm spring and the integrated hydraulic preload adjuster. LED Voltmeter installed inside the dash for monitoring charging. Duc 999 radial m/c for brake and clutch.
    NWS hugger. Equipment: Famsa tankbag,
    CBR 600 -07 MOSFET R&R FH008EE providing stable 14.4 - 14.5 V (with my wiring mod). Daytona heated grips with mccoi pwm controller and automatic chain oiler

  6. #21
    apriliaforum expert RAS's Avatar
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    hopefully it'll go into neutral easily with the motor off. If not, well, we've not had uses with worn out shift drums as far as I can remember, but

    yep, you might still have air n the line. It seems to get trapped right at the banjo connection at the master cylinder. Never been an option for me as I'm not big/strong enough, but guys will tip the bike to the right to get that bubble to get back into the reservoir. A bleeder there is a better answer.

    The other thing that we have seen that will make finding neutral very difficult is a broken throwout bearing in the clutch. You'd have to remove the right side case cover and then open the clutch to know for sure

  7. #22
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    I use a "reverse bleeding" method on the clutch and rear brake to avoid air bubbles and that works best for me. Instead of tie-raps I use some hose clamps to seal the connections from the hose to the seringe and the hose to the slave clutch. See also: https://youtu.be/yvAAKdcFQz8

  8. #23
    apriliaforum expert spesnaz's Avatar
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    Indeed, getting the last wee bubble from the clutch can be a real pain. Problem's made worse by the tiny capacity of the reservoir. With the handlebar rotated to the right, and by filling it about two-thirds with fluid, you'll have the best chance at success.

    Loosen the 5mm hex bolts a bit, and you can rotate the clutch master assembly a smidgeon, so it's level. Then, make use of the bypass passage. If you lightly and slowly cycle the lever from fully released, to that point where you feel a bit of resistance, you'll see the return flow from the bleed port in the reservoir. Just don't get too aggressive, as this little Vesuvius eruption of brake fluid is nasty on your plastic, paintwork, end the old eyeballs.

    The trick is to cycle that lever lightly, and you'll be rewarded with a few little bubbles, the last of the air in that line. I tried a few times a few years back, intentionally adding air into the line, just to see how much trouble folks were having in getting that clutch bled fully.

    Sorry, there's a Saint Bernard reading the screen with me, his slobbery chops occasionally end up on the keyboard. He wants walkies, methinks. I digress...

    The trick here is to use beer in addition to the brake fluid. Works every time. Fill the reservoir, and have a drain bottle with hose connected to the bleed port at the slave cylinder. To keep air from entering at the bleeder, I use a rubber hose and run it to the bleed bottle...with about an inch of fluid at the bottom. This way, as the hose is filled, any reverse flow will draw back from fluid, and not the air. Lightly pump the lever with a finger, and you'll see the fluid intermix, darkening the new fluid in the reservoir.

    The real trick here is the beer. Set your frosty beverage on the seat, and have a taste each time the reservoir is ready for refilling with fresh brake fluid. Patience, Grasshopper. With the lever squeezed just to the point where you feel resistance, open the bleeder a wee bit, and it will flow into the bottle. Keep it fully squeezed before lightly seating the bleeder, so you are sure to press fluid in the needed direction.

    Here's the best method I've seen: you can leave the bleed nipple open if you want to John Wayne the system clear, forcing bubbles out and down faster than they can make their upward spawning run, or you can lightly seat the bleed nipple and cycle between squeezes, then go to that beer. The latter method seems to work quite well.

    Once you're close to being fully bled, then lightly cycle the lever and watch for any remaining bubbles. Don't look too closely if you aren't wearing safety goggles, mind you. That bleed port can shoot to the ceiling if you try.

    Almost forgot, that silly diaphragm. Notice that, when installed, you have just a few CCs of fluid space in the reservoir. The fluid fill window is absolutely useless once the diaphragm is installed. So, how much fluid then? Fill to the window center with the top of the reservoir dead level. That's just about perfect. Be sure to clean the condensation on the topside of the diaphragm, and the underside of the cap.

    Bob
    Last edited by spesnaz; 05-20-2019 at 11:54 AM.

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