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Thread: Wiring Mod for charging issues.

  1. #961
    Honest always, feared often Micah / AF1 Racing's Avatar
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    Wanted to run this by you guys, please respond ASAP as this is a bike I’m currently working on. Replacing stator on 03 RST despite it not being bad, bike has been tested on dyno and road, charging system rock solid.

    The version here of the wiring mod i have id I have not seen before? Out of the regulator both positive wires are cut and terminated to a heavy gauge brown wire running direct to battery positive terminal, however instead of T-ing into red/blue pair the red blue pair from the harness side is simply terminated?

    obviously it works but I want to only do this job once...seriously it’s been a rough freaking few weeks. Does this seem OK or would it be a very wise time to make a 5 way T connection, both red/blue wire sets plus heavy brown direct to battery or leave alone?
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    Diminished expectations is the key to happiness in life.

    Micah Shoemaker
    AF1 Racing
    9900 IH35N
    Austin, TX 78753
    micah@af1racing.com
    @ShoemakerMicah
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  2. #962
    apriliaforum expert deefred's Avatar
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    The solid blue wires must be the new ground wires for the R/R and as long as they have a good ground point, it should work.
    If the positives goes to the battery directly without a fuse, its risky.
    2001 RST Futura in stream Silver.
    Mods: Modified Öhlins fork from mille R, EBC 320mm brake discs, HEL front brakelines, Carbon RS 250 front fender, Wiring mod for charging. Engine related:05 map, Iridium plugs, tuneboy, derestriced intake, old mille airboot, staintunes exhaust. Lambda bung hardbrazed in the "breadbox". Öhlins mille R rear shock with 110N/mm spring and the integrated hydraulic preload adjuster. LED Voltmeter installed inside the dash for monitoring charging. Duc 999 radial m/c for brake and clutch.
    NWS hugger. Equipment: Famsa tankbag,
    CBR 600 -07 MOSFET R&R FH008EE providing stable 14.4 - 14.5 V (with my wiring mod). Daytona heated grips with mccoi pwm controller and automatic chain oiler

  3. #963
    apriliaforum newb
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    Hi guys just unwrapped my fut from it's winter baggy, started first time , checked oil which still looked virginal ,took it it for a small run before a strip and clean . Where I found the dreaded melted brown plug problem , so went to the store bought some crimps and cable ,cut out molten plug and and about 3 inches of molten wire goo! Crimped in new cable to regain the length . Put things back together and she doesn't fire up , all I got was a healthy starter solenoid click ! What have I done wrong ?

  4. #964
    apriliaforum expert deefred's Avatar
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    If the lights doesnt dim much its the starter solenoid not making electrical contact.
    2001 RST Futura in stream Silver.
    Mods: Modified Öhlins fork from mille R, EBC 320mm brake discs, HEL front brakelines, Carbon RS 250 front fender, Wiring mod for charging. Engine related:05 map, Iridium plugs, tuneboy, derestriced intake, old mille airboot, staintunes exhaust. Lambda bung hardbrazed in the "breadbox". Öhlins mille R rear shock with 110N/mm spring and the integrated hydraulic preload adjuster. LED Voltmeter installed inside the dash for monitoring charging. Duc 999 radial m/c for brake and clutch.
    NWS hugger. Equipment: Famsa tankbag,
    CBR 600 -07 MOSFET R&R FH008EE providing stable 14.4 - 14.5 V (with my wiring mod). Daytona heated grips with mccoi pwm controller and automatic chain oiler

  5. #965
    apriliaforum newb
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    Quote Originally Posted by deefred View Post
    If the lights doesnt dim much its the starter solenoid not making electrical contact.
    Ok lights don't dim too much , starter solenoid was replaced last summer for an upgraded one could it have conked out so soon . It worked and started for first start up after winter and started first time ,been on an optimate over winter , I noticed the broken molten plug after a short ride out and decided to swap it out ,I was wondering if resistance through the crimps was stopping things starting ?

  6. #966
    apriliaforum expert deefred's Avatar
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    The brown connector has nothing to do with the starter circuit once the solenoid is energized.
    Check the resistance over the starter relay when it's energized " clicked". Should be zero.
    2001 RST Futura in stream Silver.
    Mods: Modified Öhlins fork from mille R, EBC 320mm brake discs, HEL front brakelines, Carbon RS 250 front fender, Wiring mod for charging. Engine related:05 map, Iridium plugs, tuneboy, derestriced intake, old mille airboot, staintunes exhaust. Lambda bung hardbrazed in the "breadbox". Öhlins mille R rear shock with 110N/mm spring and the integrated hydraulic preload adjuster. LED Voltmeter installed inside the dash for monitoring charging. Duc 999 radial m/c for brake and clutch.
    NWS hugger. Equipment: Famsa tankbag,
    CBR 600 -07 MOSFET R&R FH008EE providing stable 14.4 - 14.5 V (with my wiring mod). Daytona heated grips with mccoi pwm controller and automatic chain oiler

  7. #967
    apriliaforum newb
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    Thumbs up

    Quote Originally Posted by deefred View Post
    The brown connector has nothing to do with the starter circuit once the solenoid is energized.
    Check the resistance over the starter relay when it's energized " clicked". Should be zero.
    I left it for a couple of days ,then squirted some lecky contact cleaner over starter switch and starter solenoid and hey presto , we have life . Thanks for your help Deefred.

  8. #968
    apriliaforum expert deefred's Avatar
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    Unless you do more maintenance it can happen again.
    I would at least remove the cable at the starter and fully clean it. Its a known area for corrosion. If it looks very corroded report back here before removing it. Starter can be damaged if the stud spins.
    2001 RST Futura in stream Silver.
    Mods: Modified Öhlins fork from mille R, EBC 320mm brake discs, HEL front brakelines, Carbon RS 250 front fender, Wiring mod for charging. Engine related:05 map, Iridium plugs, tuneboy, derestriced intake, old mille airboot, staintunes exhaust. Lambda bung hardbrazed in the "breadbox". Öhlins mille R rear shock with 110N/mm spring and the integrated hydraulic preload adjuster. LED Voltmeter installed inside the dash for monitoring charging. Duc 999 radial m/c for brake and clutch.
    NWS hugger. Equipment: Famsa tankbag,
    CBR 600 -07 MOSFET R&R FH008EE providing stable 14.4 - 14.5 V (with my wiring mod). Daytona heated grips with mccoi pwm controller and automatic chain oiler

  9. #969
    apriliaforum prov-nov
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    Finally swapped the brown connector for 3 crimps even though there was no sign of trouble . 13.8-14v at idle now and I feel better even though she went 16666 miles issue free.

  10. #970
    apriliaforum Member StreetCred's Avatar
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    Years ago I did a mod to the regulator/rectifier where I mounted a terminal block to the aluminum plate that the regulator mounts to. Then I cut the connectors off, soldered on ring terminals to all the wires and connected them through the terminal block. I would still get charging issues and would have put the battery on a trickle charger several times throughout the riding season.

    Flash forward a bunch of years and I now have one of Ricks regulators. My problem(s) is/are:

    1. I have to cut the connectors off the new regulator. I don't have the mating connectors anymore.
    2. I don't know what to do with the 3 yellow wires. I know they go to the stator.
    a. Do they need to be in any certain order?
    b. If so, how to figure out which lead is which?
    StreetCred

    2003 Silver, wiring mod, fuel line mod, de-restricted airbox, HoMade exhaust.

  11. #971
    apriliaforum expert deefred's Avatar
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    The yeĺllow wires have no order, that's why they have the same colour.
    2001 RST Futura in stream Silver.
    Mods: Modified Öhlins fork from mille R, EBC 320mm brake discs, HEL front brakelines, Carbon RS 250 front fender, Wiring mod for charging. Engine related:05 map, Iridium plugs, tuneboy, derestriced intake, old mille airboot, staintunes exhaust. Lambda bung hardbrazed in the "breadbox". Öhlins mille R rear shock with 110N/mm spring and the integrated hydraulic preload adjuster. LED Voltmeter installed inside the dash for monitoring charging. Duc 999 radial m/c for brake and clutch.
    NWS hugger. Equipment: Famsa tankbag,
    CBR 600 -07 MOSFET R&R FH008EE providing stable 14.4 - 14.5 V (with my wiring mod). Daytona heated grips with mccoi pwm controller and automatic chain oiler

  12. #972
    apriliaforum Member StreetCred's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by deefred View Post
    The yeĺllow wires have no order, that's why they have the same colour.
    Thanks for the input!

    I was thinking that. I just wasn't sure if the wires needed to be in some sort of sequence. From what I can tell they go to 3 sets of windings on stator.
    StreetCred

    2003 Silver, wiring mod, fuel line mod, de-restricted airbox, HoMade exhaust.

  13. #973
    apriliaforum newb
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    Dear Futura friends, I recently bought a second Aprilia Futura. Mainly as a back-up for spareparts. Even in the EU it is getting harder
    to find specific parts for our beloved Aprilia. Parts that Aprilia does'nt make any more or are costing a fortune on the used market.
    During the inspection of the bike I came across this. I just wanted to share this with you guys.


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    When I had taken off all of the black tape, I got to this.
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    Looks like some one did'nt pay attention to the basic of electronics.
    Rest of the bike looks OK. So far.....

  14. #974
    apriliaforum Member Ollie B's Avatar
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    So a while ago I replaced the R/R with an FH 020 AA and re-wired to and from the R/R.
    R/R to battery is 12 AWG and stator wires to R/R (red arrow on photo) is 14 AWG.

    I connected the Aprilia stator wires (blue arrow on photo) to the new R/R wires with crimps and push fit connectors and heat shrinked (shrunk?) them individually instead of using a 3 pin connector. No sure if this was a good idea or not but my thinking was I could easily have a look and see if they're overheating instead of having to extract them from a connector block.

    Anyway, I checked them tonight as I'd noticed my charge volts have dropped from around 14.2 to 14.0, and they are indeed overheating.
    When the bike is running they are too hot to handle.

    My question is what's the best way to stop the pesky things overheating?

    I presume they're heating up due to the resistance of the connector (you can see in the photo that the heat damage is only around the connnector from the small original wire) and soldering is the way to fix this.
    I'd originally avoided soldering them together as the different gauges made it awkward to do but I could persevere and do that.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Thanks in advance.
    2003 Futura, blue.
    Mods: metal fuel QD, FH020AA R/R, K&N, airbox mod, GPR exhausts, R&G, starter solenoid upgraded, FPR mod, top box rack, side stand cutout, 05 map, fuel tank drains plugged, ignition coils and leads, Oxford heated grips, 12V socket, Hagon shock.
    Previously: ZX6R 636, Firestorm VTR 1000, ZZR600, KR-1.

  15. #975
    apriliaforum expert kzmille's Avatar
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    It is highly possible the resistance is in the blade connection. Eliminate it. Use adequately sized but connectors. Avoid ones with a split barrel.
    This is America. Use your turn signals or WE WILL KILL YOU - remember Sandra Bland

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