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Thread: Futura Information/Repairs

  1. #16
    apriliaforum expert Argh Oh's Avatar
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    There are a number of threads about the King Bearing, though sadly it seems this last "Batman" is the most hideous and there have been a lot of good hints given. The usual suspects that are always helpful with their insight and experience. When it's finally all done I'll do kind of a recap.
    Last edited by Argh Oh; 03-07-2014 at 02:27 AM.
    01 Blue #84, 11/12 with: HeliBars, foam grips, 05 map, Borla cans (Replaced by 2" pipe)/stock silencer, derestricted, metal QD, dash socket, wiring mod. Me: Ford relay +10awg & grd, fuel pump rewire, FPR, vac hoses. Evap gone, CBR coils/harness+ Magnecor, clutch switch bypass. S.S. clutch & front line, RaceTech Gold fork, Cogent rebuilt Sachs, tapered head bearings. Added LED run lights/indicators/brake. All signals also run lights. All lights but Hi/park/brake on dash switch. Hi beam mod, vest plug, wiring block, blue dash SMD's/Red V meter, Tune IFT, PCIII gone. Stripped/polished rims, vented screen, rear petal disc. FH008 soldered DC plug/added grd/hard soldered AC. L/R dash indicator lights, RG frame/fork sliders, vented screen.

  2. #17
    apriliaforum prov-nov
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    Hi All
    Just wondering if here is a post for the headlight mod to keep all lights on in high beam would like to do that

  3. #18
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    Added the high/low beam switch mod.
    Added the helmet locks/hooks mod.

  4. #19
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    Added Evoluzione clutch slave fix.
    Added a link to the Futura fork servicing article.
    Added emperorluigi's Givi MonoKey custom mount.

  5. #20
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    Added vacuum line check valve part numbers
    Added vacuum line check valve repair
    Added rear bag mount rubber attachment repair

  6. #21
    apriliaforum expert Argh Oh's Avatar
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    Thank you!
    01 Blue #84, 11/12 with: HeliBars, foam grips, 05 map, Borla cans (Replaced by 2" pipe)/stock silencer, derestricted, metal QD, dash socket, wiring mod. Me: Ford relay +10awg & grd, fuel pump rewire, FPR, vac hoses. Evap gone, CBR coils/harness+ Magnecor, clutch switch bypass. S.S. clutch & front line, RaceTech Gold fork, Cogent rebuilt Sachs, tapered head bearings. Added LED run lights/indicators/brake. All signals also run lights. All lights but Hi/park/brake on dash switch. Hi beam mod, vest plug, wiring block, blue dash SMD's/Red V meter, Tune IFT, PCIII gone. Stripped/polished rims, vented screen, rear petal disc. FH008 soldered DC plug/added grd/hard soldered AC. L/R dash indicator lights, RG frame/fork sliders, vented screen.

  7. #22
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    Added ground connection repair (with pictures!)

  8. #23
    apriliaforum newb Chawkster's Avatar
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    Is there a cam timing "how to"?
    2003 Aprilia RST1000 Futura, rebuilt & repainted BMW Imola Red. De-restricted, wiring mod, metal QD, FPR mod with silicone vac lines, home-made H-Pipe, R1 end cans, CBR coils + Magnecore leads, timing set to 103/106, flywheel weight removed, '05 map, RSV forks, RSVR 320mm front discs, Brembo radial clutch and brake master cylinders, custom HEL brake lines, RSV mirrors, heated grips, GIPRO gear indicator & sparkbright battery monitor integrated in dashboard, HID headlight with lightswitch mod, LED sidelight, hazard lights, Audi horn, powedercoated wheels and side castings
    KTM 453EXC enduro/supermoto

  9. #24
    apriliaforum expert northern phil's Avatar
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    Cam timing, plenty on here. Do a search for cam timing.

    There are lots of threads and discussions, read it all twice or more till it sinks in. It takes a bit of getting your head around and doesnt all make full sense untill you dive in.

    It takes me a good week of 3hrs per night do time up a motor.

    You need to be methodical. If it goes wrong!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ouch.

    Slotting the cam wheels is the hardest part.

    For a futura 103/106 is the accepted setting.

  10. #25
    apriliaforum expert Argh Oh's Avatar
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    ^^^^^^ A slotted gear kit is available from AF1.
    01 Blue #84, 11/12 with: HeliBars, foam grips, 05 map, Borla cans (Replaced by 2" pipe)/stock silencer, derestricted, metal QD, dash socket, wiring mod. Me: Ford relay +10awg & grd, fuel pump rewire, FPR, vac hoses. Evap gone, CBR coils/harness+ Magnecor, clutch switch bypass. S.S. clutch & front line, RaceTech Gold fork, Cogent rebuilt Sachs, tapered head bearings. Added LED run lights/indicators/brake. All signals also run lights. All lights but Hi/park/brake on dash switch. Hi beam mod, vest plug, wiring block, blue dash SMD's/Red V meter, Tune IFT, PCIII gone. Stripped/polished rims, vented screen, rear petal disc. FH008 soldered DC plug/added grd/hard soldered AC. L/R dash indicator lights, RG frame/fork sliders, vented screen.

  11. #26
    apriliaforum newb Chawkster's Avatar
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    Thanks, just struggling to find info and method all in one thread!
    I'm prepared for the time and awkwardness of the task, have timed cams in before but not on a bike. Its just small things like can i trust the TDC notches to be accurate? I have now bought a TDC tool to get it 100% accurate. And its a v engine...
    Slotting cam wheels is easy for me - luckily i work in engineering and have a supplier who can machine them for me.
    Biggest concern is the cam cover bolts, plenty of corrosion on the cam cover so i think i may have problems removing them...
    103/106 is interesting as the RSV boys seem to go for 106/106. I guess this gives better mid-range more suited to the character of the Fut
    Wish me luck and thanks for your help
    2003 Aprilia RST1000 Futura, rebuilt & repainted BMW Imola Red. De-restricted, wiring mod, metal QD, FPR mod with silicone vac lines, home-made H-Pipe, R1 end cans, CBR coils + Magnecore leads, timing set to 103/106, flywheel weight removed, '05 map, RSV forks, RSVR 320mm front discs, Brembo radial clutch and brake master cylinders, custom HEL brake lines, RSV mirrors, heated grips, GIPRO gear indicator & sparkbright battery monitor integrated in dashboard, HID headlight with lightswitch mod, LED sidelight, hazard lights, Audi horn, powedercoated wheels and side castings
    KTM 453EXC enduro/supermoto

  12. #27
    apriliaforum expert Argh Oh's Avatar
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    Keep us posted. I chickened out on this one.
    01 Blue #84, 11/12 with: HeliBars, foam grips, 05 map, Borla cans (Replaced by 2" pipe)/stock silencer, derestricted, metal QD, dash socket, wiring mod. Me: Ford relay +10awg & grd, fuel pump rewire, FPR, vac hoses. Evap gone, CBR coils/harness+ Magnecor, clutch switch bypass. S.S. clutch & front line, RaceTech Gold fork, Cogent rebuilt Sachs, tapered head bearings. Added LED run lights/indicators/brake. All signals also run lights. All lights but Hi/park/brake on dash switch. Hi beam mod, vest plug, wiring block, blue dash SMD's/Red V meter, Tune IFT, PCIII gone. Stripped/polished rims, vented screen, rear petal disc. FH008 soldered DC plug/added grd/hard soldered AC. L/R dash indicator lights, RG frame/fork sliders, vented screen.

  13. #28
    apriliaforum expert Fox Fader's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Argh Oh View Post
    Mine was TALLER than stock but fits. Mostly.
    Check that. The YTZ14S is shorter than the OE ytx12-bs
    2007 Tuono 1000R Factory - 22K miles
    Cored OE Racing CansMap2Pazzo Shorty Knock-offs15-40AF1 Link PlatesAprilia Sliders
    Laminar WindscreenLowered PegsLED City and Tag Lights
    ProTaper Universal LowClear Signal Lenses

    2017 Z125 PRO in Candy Lime Green
    Many mods

    2001 Futura in Silver - Sold, after 8.5 years of service.

    Retired - DJ, Turntablist, MC, Creator, Video Editor and Mixologist.
    Cored OE Cans vs Leo Vince Titanium Vid
    Slammin' Tunes!

    HF152, 10-26954
    HF564 .024-.028


    Chrome extension to see photobucket blocked pics.

  14. #29
    apriliaforum expert Argh Oh's Avatar
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    Honest, it's taller. Sorry, YTX 14-BS. ​My bad.
    01 Blue #84, 11/12 with: HeliBars, foam grips, 05 map, Borla cans (Replaced by 2" pipe)/stock silencer, derestricted, metal QD, dash socket, wiring mod. Me: Ford relay +10awg & grd, fuel pump rewire, FPR, vac hoses. Evap gone, CBR coils/harness+ Magnecor, clutch switch bypass. S.S. clutch & front line, RaceTech Gold fork, Cogent rebuilt Sachs, tapered head bearings. Added LED run lights/indicators/brake. All signals also run lights. All lights but Hi/park/brake on dash switch. Hi beam mod, vest plug, wiring block, blue dash SMD's/Red V meter, Tune IFT, PCIII gone. Stripped/polished rims, vented screen, rear petal disc. FH008 soldered DC plug/added grd/hard soldered AC. L/R dash indicator lights, RG frame/fork sliders, vented screen.

  15. #30
    apriliaforum expert Motech's Avatar
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    Thank you. A very useful thread.
    No Matter Where You Are, There You Go!

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