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Thread: Futura Information/Repairs

  1. #46
    apriliaforum expert Futura's Avatar
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    I am also considering LED head lighting as an upgrade from HID.

    I have been running 3 HIDs for years now. The acrylic lens still seems OK, but I only have 25k miles.

    I appreciate the instant-on of the LEDs and the color purity.

    Also, the weight of 3 big ballasts is crimpin' my wheelie style.

    Most of the aftermarket LEDs suffer from poor design, in that the LEDs do not replicate the OEM halogen filament placement very well, and the result is a poor beam shape.

    Has anyone found a not too expensive successful LED kit?

  2. #47
    apriliaforum expert old git's Avatar
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    I did LED's swap over 1 year ago.
    I don't ride at night, so only wanted th 'white' light to be more visible and give me the lower effort on the stator.
    To 'solve' the problem of the heat, I used what I would call an 'old' style LED wiht the built in fan & mounted them through the rubber water/dust cover so it should be drawing heat out of the headlight itself. Ones I used has a built-in controller so no extra ballast as in the box.
    I didn't measure / test / evaluate the beam pattern, but it passed the government road test again 6 weeks ago, so either its OK or they didn't look to closely.
    For me at least, it was a success.
    Something very much like this, can't post exact link as its expired from my evilbay.
    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/H8-H9-H11....c100005.m1851
    Last edited by old git; 05-05-2019 at 03:43 AM.
    Fire Red Falco, my 1st Love.
    sidestand mod (Hayabusa), charging mod, larger sealed airbox, Gabro chip lower Buell rider pegs, braided lines, custom rider seat, home brew hard panniers, OHlins bouncer
    Add Two Tone RS Touring Futura'04, knock-off levers, charging mod, 05map, NWS hugger, Ohlins shock, 12v socket, lowered rider pegs, 848 twin exhausts, revamped plate hanger with pannier support.
    What's not to love!!.er

  3. #48
    apriliaforum newb
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    Dear Futura friends, I recently bought a second Aprilia Futura.
    During the disassembling of the bike I came across this:

    Name:  Aprilia RST 1000 Futura 1.jpg
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Size:  96.1 KB


    When I had the tape removed, I came across this. Are those plummer parts?

    Name:  Aprilia RST 1000 Futura 2.jpg
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Size:  95.6 KB

  4. #49
    apriliaforum expert deefred's Avatar
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    For sure its not the original plastic or the newer metallic quick disconnect.
    2001 RST Futura in stream Silver.
    Mods: Modified Öhlins fork from mille R, EBC 320mm brake discs, HEL front brakelines, Carbon RS 250 front fender, Wiring mod for charging. Engine related:05 map, Iridium plugs, tuneboy, derestriced intake, old mille airboot, staintunes exhaust. Lambda bung hardbrazed in the "breadbox". Öhlins mille R rear shock with 110N/mm spring and the integrated hydraulic preload adjuster. LED Voltmeter installed inside the dash for monitoring charging. Duc 999 radial m/c for brake and clutch.
    NWS hugger. Equipment: Famsa tankbag,
    CBR 600 -07 MOSFET R&R FH008EE providing stable 14.4 - 14.5 V (with my wiring mod). Daytona heated grips with mccoi pwm controller and automatic chain oiler

  5. #50
    apriliaforum expert RAS's Avatar
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    or any kinda quick disconnect for that matter. lol. Yep, look like bits from the plumbing dept at the home store.

    At a minimum, you should consider replacing those hose clamps with ones meant for fuel lines - like these https://www.autozone.com/collision-b...amp/940355_0_0
    should be easy enough to find.

  6. #51
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    The funny thing is, I expected it to leak but it did'nt! There was one thing that scared the sh%t out of me.
    I had decided to transfer the bike in a small truck to my place. After a short test drive I placed it in the truck.
    When I got home and checked the rear tire I saw the rear-wheel was mounted in a wrong way. The previous owner
    had mounted the rear-wheel beside the three pins which lock the wheel in place. The rear-wheel had been so tightly locked up
    I had to use a special lenght ratchet.

  7. #52
    apriliaforum expert RAS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Farfalloni View Post
    The funny thing is, I expected it to leak but it did'nt! There was one thing that scared the sh%t out of me.
    I had decided to transfer the bike in a small truck to my place. After a short test drive I placed it in the truck.
    When I got home and checked the rear tire I saw the rear-wheel was mounted in a wrong way. The previous owner
    had mounted the rear-wheel beside the three pins which lock the wheel in place. The rear-wheel had been so tightly locked up
    I had to use a special lenght ratchet.
    With the back wheel on properly, and set to 125 ft-lbs of torque, it takes more than a "std." length wrench to overcome the friction and torque applied to that large flat surface. I use a 3ft long pipe slid over top of a 3/4 drive breaker bar and it still takes a pretty good push while holding the brake pedal down and using the passenger grab rail for support.

    More perfectly good wheels have been ruined by mounting them wrong like that. Doesn't seem all that hard to get it right, but people are always in a hurry. There's never time to do things right the 1st time, but there's always time to do it over. sheesh

  8. #53
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    According to the workshopmanual is has to be 170Nm. I always manage it with my "standard" 70cm long 1/2" ratchet on my Aprilia.
    But this Aprilia was something different. I was afraid it had been too tightly locked up and some damage had been done to the screw-theard.
    Luckely enough it did'nt. And yes, how simple could it be? It is all in the instruction manual, step by step. On the other hand, you learn a lot
    working on a bike like this.

  9. #54
    apriliaforum expert RAS's Avatar
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    170Nm = 125 ft-lbs And your 70cm wrench is 27.5", so shorter than the 36" I've used, but still a lot bigger than what I would consider std. size for any wrench. My biggest torque wrench is about 70cm, but it's not advised to use a clicker torque wrench to loosen

    Anyway - hopefully the wheel was not damaged.

  10. #55
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    Hi all,

    I've come across a pretty strange phenomenon lately.
    Upon intensive throttle inputs the bike's ignition just shuts off. Here's a demonstration video below

    It does not always do it but it does sometimes happen during riding which is extremely annoying and dangerous.
    Once or twice the bike shut down when idling at red light.
    I'm fiddling with the light switch in the video because I noticed that the ignition switched off once even when I was only adjusting the lights. The bike wasn't even running yet.

    Any ideas? Probably a contact problem with an earth or a wire somewhere or it could be the ignition switch itself but I'm not sure where to start looking.

    Thanks!
    B

  11. #56
    apriliaforum expert RAS's Avatar
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    Aside from the speedo being out for lunch, to my eye, your idle speed is too high by about 300 RPM. That's where mine idles until the temp gauge has numbers showing. At that point, just touching the throttle brings the idle down to 1200-ish, where it should be. Yours is already in the operating range, so 1500 is too high suggesting you might have an air leak in one or more of the hoses. And generally - whacking the throttle wide open like that on a big twin motor will never be met with happiness - even when everything is running perfectly.

    Have you tried wiggling the side stand up and down to get it to stall?

    You're assuming the ignition is shutting off. It's not so easy to know. The side stand switch and the tip-over safety will shut both ignition and fuel off. ,

    Have you looked for any error codes. Not a reliable indicator, but sometimes.

  12. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by RAS View Post
    Aside from the speedo being out for lunch, to my eye, your idle speed is too high by about 300 RPM. That's where mine idles until the temp gauge has numbers showing. At that point, just touching the throttle brings the idle down to 1200-ish, where it should be. Yours is already in the operating range, so 1500 is too high suggesting you might have an air leak in one or more of the hoses. And generally - whacking the throttle wide open like that on a big twin motor will never be met with happiness - even when everything is running perfectly.

    Have you tried wiggling the side stand up and down to get it to stall?

    You're assuming the ignition is shutting off. It's not so easy to know. The side stand switch and the tip-over safety will shut both ignition and fuel off. ,

    Have you looked for any error codes. Not a reliable indicator, but sometimes.
    Thanks for the quick response.
    Yeah after I recorded this I was telling myself that I shouldn't have had the bike on side stand because of the safety mechanism so I will give it a go again tomorrow.
    I know yanking the throttle wide open like that isn't ideal but this is how I was able to get the issue on tape, I don't have onboard footage of the issue while riding but I might put my gopro on and try to get it on camera.
    The speedo was acting up like that before this issue started so I don't think they are related. The bike was fairly cold, has not been started for about a week or so, that could be the reason of the idle however there might be an actual issue I can't tell. Probably end up having to visit my mechanic anyway he knows his stuff when it comes to these Aprilia V twins

  13. #58
    apriliaforum expert RAS's Avatar
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    When it happens while riding, have you noticed if the dash reads OFF?

    As long as it's in neutral, the side stand will not be an issue. There are 2 circuits with the stand - one that lights up the light and another that actually shuts the bike off if the stand is down and you put it in gear. There's actually a bypass for the switch that will allow the light to remain working, but not shut the bike off. Do a search for that bypass + kzmille to see how it's done.

    Sidestand switches have a bad reputation for causing bikes to stop - especially if they are all gummed up with chain lube or you ride in the rain a lot. I think that if the ignition switch misbehaved, you'd likely lose lights as well. U might also try opening the right side switch clamshell and spray some contact cleaner at the kill switch and give it some work.

  14. #59
    apriliaforum Member Skipbarberman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RAS View Post
    Aside from the speedo being out for lunch, to my eye, your idle speed is too high by about 300 RPM. That's where mine idles until the temp gauge has numbers showing. At that point, just touching the throttle brings the idle down to 1200-ish, where it should be. Yours is already in the operating range, so 1500 is too high suggesting you might have an air leak in one or more of the hoses. And generally - whacking the throttle wide open like that on a big twin motor will never be met with happiness - even when everything is running perfectly.
    That looks to me like a lean condition and I would be checking for a vacuum leak. Spraying carb cleaner is a good test - near the TBs - and if the idle surges, it indicates that there is a leak somewhere.

  15. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by RAS View Post
    When it happens while riding, have you noticed if the dash reads OFF?

    As long as it's in neutral, the side stand will not be an issue. There are 2 circuits with the stand - one that lights up the light and another that actually shuts the bike off if the stand is down and you put it in gear. There's actually a bypass for the switch that will allow the light to remain working, but not shut the bike off. Do a search for that bypass + kzmille to see how it's done.

    Sidestand switches have a bad reputation for causing bikes to stop - especially if they are all gummed up with chain lube or you ride in the rain a lot. I think that if the ignition switch misbehaved, you'd likely lose lights as well. U might also try opening the right side switch clamshell and spray some contact cleaner at the kill switch and give it some work.
    No the dash does not say OFF when this happens. I put the self-diagnostic circuit's connectors together so that I might see the EFI code but so far I only got 1 and -1 which indicates no issue. I will have to check with the mechanic if he could look at historic errors in the computer, maybe that'll tell us something. I don't have the equipment to do this.

    I don't think the problem is related to the side stand sensor as the issue I'm having is -as far as I can tell- are related to throttle inputs while already in gear and riding. It just happens that I was able to record the video while standing.
    About 2-3 weeks ago I was out on a long and intense ride to the countryside and back with no issues all weekend long (put around 400 miles on the clock) except for the last one or two miles when I got back to the city I live in. I got into a traffic jam due to a construction site and I had to navigate carefully between the cars and a barrier. I was slowing down to a stop when I forgot that I was in gear (silly) and the bike stalled. When I started the bike up again the EFI light came on and stayed on during the short remainder of my ride. (This happened once before when I also stalled the bike not long after I got it so I didn't pay much attention to this because the last time it went away after the next start up.) So with the EFI light on I was going through the city in heavy traffic and about 5 minutes after stalling I noticed for the first time that the dash went dark then turned back on with all the lights flashing and then going back to normal, also at the same time choking when I was pulling the throttle, almost losing my momentum completely and stalling. When the dash came on the bike started to respond to the throttle again.

    Quote Originally Posted by Skipbarberman View Post
    That looks to me like a lean condition and I would be checking for a vacuum leak. Spraying carb cleaner is a good test - near the TBs - and if the idle surges, it indicates that there is a leak somewhere.
    My mechanic was working on the vacuum hoses because the previous owner's mechanic messed the whole thing up, it was attached in the wrong order and my mechanic said he fixed it and the hoses were old so put on new ones as well. There might still be a leak though so I will get that checked.

    Thanks
    B

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