Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 20

Thread: How to clean copper wires that have corroded black

  1. #1
    apriliaforum Junkie
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Offenham Worcestershire
    Posts
    293

    How to clean copper wires that have corroded black

    I found this, tried it and it works.

    How to perfectly clean wires in minutes!!!
























    Here is an old ham radio operators trick for cleaning wires for soldering that are old and corroded. It is hard to find this technique printed anywhere! I am a ham, NH7ZE, and learned it from my elmer (mentor). I am passing it on. I hope it helps people who need to clean wires:P Please vote!!!

    Normally, if you strip a wire, and see it is corroded, there is not much you can do to restore it's shiny new conductive properties. There is scraping and scratching which comes to mind, but you'll never get it to the solderable slickness it once was long ago. After laboring and fretting over the corroded pieces of wire for a long, long time, you see that your sweat coming out of your palms and fingers are corroding the copper AGAIN!!!! Oh, dear. NOT TO WORRY!!!!! Give yourself a pat on the back, because what you will pull out of your bag of tricks now, will send all the corroded copper wires scurrying and scampering away in fear!!!! Here is how to clean any corroded wire without even touching it, in 30 seconds!! And what's more, you can even solder it!!!

    This process uses two solutions, one is regular table salt and vinegar. Any kind of vinegar will work, from balsamic, to rice, to white vinegars. Its the acidity and corrosiveness of the salt and vinegar together that you want. The other solution is Sodium Bicarbonate, or baking soda, and water. This is used to neutralize the corrosive properties of the other solution, and to further clean the wires.

    Step 1: Strip the wires to be cleaned.

    Step 2: Get 2 containers, one for each solution. They can be paper cups, plastic, glass, bowls, whatever you can find. I have vials, because I am a professional electronics installer and I use these solutions out in the field.

    Step 3: Get 1 tablespoon of raw salt, and put it in one of the containers. Fill up the rest of the container with vinegar, and stir the both together. As a general rule of thumb, put as much salt in the vinegar as will dissolve.

    Step 4: Get 1 tablespoon of Sodium Bicarbonate, (baking soda) and add it to the other container. Fill up the rest with water, and stir well. Add more baking soda to make it cloudy. The amount is not important, as long as it is alkaline to cancel the acid of the vinegar solution.

    Step 5: Put the stripped end of the wire in the vinegar solution, and stir the solution with the wire. any wire you want cleaned needs to be under the solution. Movement of the wire in the liquid speeds up the process.

    Step 6: After 2 minutes or so, the wire will look very shiny and new in the vinegar solution. The acid and salt in the solution is etching away the oxides, exposing the bare metal. Make sure the metal is uniformly shiny. Leave it in longer if it is not perfectly clean throughout.

    Step 7: Once the wire is satisfactorily clean, remove the wire from the vinegar, and plunge it into the baking soda solution to neutralize the acid's corrosive properties. If the wire was exposed to the air, without neutralizing the acid first, it would quickly corrode again. The baking soda keeps it clean and shiny. Swish the wire around in the baking soda water for about 10 seconds, and then you are done!! Shiny new wire ready for soldering, and conducting once again!!

  2. #2
    apriliaforum expert BigSteve's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Melksham, Wiltshire, UK
    Posts
    7,607
    Nice one Marcus....Top of the Class for you this week with extra Merit Marks for being the Swot of the week...

    Marvellous cure for the Black wire virus that can afflict any bike, not just Capo's, I have saved it away for future use should I need it...

    (2003 Infinity Blue Capo) - Leo Vince x3 Cans/K&N Air filter/Snorkle-less/Catfish Map/ZX-6R FH016 Mosphet Rectifier/Front Coils re-located/Metal Fuel CRC Fixings/Brown Connector-less/Hyperpro Springs F&R/Rear Hugger/R&G Heated Grips/Krauser Alloy Panniers/Givi G45 Box/BMW GS1150 HandGuards with Touratech Extensions/Kawasaki Z1000 Mirrors/CREE LED's/Wilks Raid Rep Sump Guard & aprilia Crash Bars + Lots of Stickers..
    (1990 Kawasaki ZZ-R 1100C1) Remus Innovation S/S Full System, Double Bubble Screen, ZXR750 full lift Carbtops & RenTec rack.
    (1997 Kawasaki KLR 650 C3) In Kwacker Green.

  3. #3
    apriliaforum Junkie
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Offenham Worcestershire
    Posts
    293
    Thanks Steve.
    Here is a bit more information.
    I found the statement "it only takes minutes" is little inaccurate. What I had to do is place the wires in the vinigar/salt solution for about 10 minutes, then dip it into the baking soda solution for 10 seconds, then back into the Vinegar solution for a further ten minutes, then back into the baking soda solution. I found this cleaned the cables really well as below.
    It's better to use white vinegar as you can see it cleaning the cables.
    BEFORE:


    AFTER!!

  4. #4
    apriliaforum expert GRUMPYGIT's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    NEWPORT SHROPSHIRE UK
    Posts
    2,678
    Nice one mate , i was going to suggest something acidic as we know how ordinary Coke can clean a penny. Sounds like your on the home stretch

  5. #5
    apriliaforum expert northernkiwi's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Horten; Norway
    Posts
    1,343
    Good one, always handy to have a solution that does not require any other ingredients than whats in the cupboard. I figure a salt and lemon/ lime juice would also the trick. In the pacific we use it to cook fish without using heat. Also your vinegar salt solution works.
    Current:
    2004 capo - the grey one
    Oberon clutch slave, 4cm extra foam in riders seat, RR back shock , Hagon progressive front springs, 4 techauto coils, AF1 fuel line and metal connectors, both brown connectors replaced with direct wiring, kappa racks and Big Husky 46l cases, hepco becker junior top case,mandatory capo stickers, cbr honda mosfet rectifier. Grant of watford,s map.
    Previous:
    Honda CB 360
    Kawasaki Z1 900
    86 Yamaha xj 900
    knees in the breeze is my only disease

  6. #6
    apriliaforum Junkie
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    280
    Whilst on the subject of cleaning......Only this week I have tried using electrolysis to remove some rust from an exhaust off of a small digger. I wish I had tried it before, its bloody brilliant.......old blue plastic tray filled with water, an old sprocket to use as a sacrificial anode and some washing soda. chuck the soda into the water about 2 tablespoons per gallon , connect battery charger to anode-positive to old sprocket (can be any old scrap ferrous metal) Connect negative to your item to be cleaned, make sure the two don't touch though. Switch on and watch it bubble............2-3 hours later rust all attracted to the positive sprocket, nearly all rust gone left a bit longer and all done. I even earned brownie points with the boss, put our chrome cooker shelves in to try, came out like new. Pressure washed them off as a rinse easy peasey.All burnt on carbon gone and no chemicals used........best done out side though as the process gives off hydrogen gas -very small but still dangerous in confined spaces........give it a go, you'll be amazed.

  7. #7
    apriliaforum expert Precis's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia
    Posts
    5,940
    Quote Originally Posted by camonc8 View Post
    Whilst on the subject of cleaning......Only this week I have tried using electrolysis to remove some rust from an exhaust off of a small digger. I wish I had tried it before, its bloody brilliant.......old blue plastic tray filled with water, an old sprocket to use as a sacrificial anode and some washing soda. chuck the soda into the water about 2 tablespoons per gallon , connect battery charger to anode-positive to old sprocket (can be any old scrap ferrous metal) Connect negative to your item to be cleaned, make sure the two don't touch though. Switch on and watch it bubble............2-3 hours later rust all attracted to the positive sprocket, nearly all rust gone left a bit longer and all done. I even earned brownie points with the boss, put our chrome cooker shelves in to try, came out like new. Pressure washed them off as a rinse easy peasey.All burnt on carbon gone and no chemicals used........best done out side though as the process gives off hydrogen gas -very small but still dangerous in confined spaces........give it a go, you'll be amazed.
    Going to try that with our cooker racks ... there's a couple of weekend rides I need some credits in the bank for ...
    Aut viam inveniam aut faciam

  8. #8
    apriliaforum Junkie
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    280
    Especially good on those barby grills I should think precis................I reckon she will say have a month of sundays off to ride after you have done them......

  9. #9
    apriliaforum prov-nov
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    zululand
    Posts
    50
    swiming pool acid (hydrocloric acid) works for me chop chop and its clean. just remember to neutrelize with bicarbonate of soda solution and solder it.
    Quote Originally Posted by westee View Post
    I found this, tried it and it works.

    How to perfectly clean wires in minutes!!!
























    Here is an old ham radio operators trick for cleaning wires for soldering that are old and corroded. It is hard to find this technique printed anywhere! I am a ham, NH7ZE, and learned it from my elmer (mentor). I am passing it on. I hope it helps people who need to clean wires:P Please vote!!!

    Normally, if you strip a wire, and see it is corroded, there is not much you can do to restore it's shiny new conductive properties. There is scraping and scratching which comes to mind, but you'll never get it to the solderable slickness it once was long ago. After laboring and fretting over the corroded pieces of wire for a long, long time, you see that your sweat coming out of your palms and fingers are corroding the copper AGAIN!!!! Oh, dear. NOT TO WORRY!!!!! Give yourself a pat on the back, because what you will pull out of your bag of tricks now, will send all the corroded copper wires scurrying and scampering away in fear!!!! Here is how to clean any corroded wire without even touching it, in 30 seconds!! And what's more, you can even solder it!!!

    This process uses two solutions, one is regular table salt and vinegar. Any kind of vinegar will work, from balsamic, to rice, to white vinegars. Its the acidity and corrosiveness of the salt and vinegar together that you want. The other solution is Sodium Bicarbonate, or baking soda, and water. This is used to neutralize the corrosive properties of the other solution, and to further clean the wires.

    Step 1: Strip the wires to be cleaned.

    Step 2: Get 2 containers, one for each solution. They can be paper cups, plastic, glass, bowls, whatever you can find. I have vials, because I am a professional electronics installer and I use these solutions out in the field.

    Step 3: Get 1 tablespoon of raw salt, and put it in one of the containers. Fill up the rest of the container with vinegar, and stir the both together. As a general rule of thumb, put as much salt in the vinegar as will dissolve.

    Step 4: Get 1 tablespoon of Sodium Bicarbonate, (baking soda) and add it to the other container. Fill up the rest with water, and stir well. Add more baking soda to make it cloudy. The amount is not important, as long as it is alkaline to cancel the acid of the vinegar solution.

    Step 5: Put the stripped end of the wire in the vinegar solution, and stir the solution with the wire. any wire you want cleaned needs to be under the solution. Movement of the wire in the liquid speeds up the process.

    Step 6: After 2 minutes or so, the wire will look very shiny and new in the vinegar solution. The acid and salt in the solution is etching away the oxides, exposing the bare metal. Make sure the metal is uniformly shiny. Leave it in longer if it is not perfectly clean throughout.

    Step 7: Once the wire is satisfactorily clean, remove the wire from the vinegar, and plunge it into the baking soda solution to neutralize the acid's corrosive properties. If the wire was exposed to the air, without neutralizing the acid first, it would quickly corrode again. The baking soda keeps it clean and shiny. Swish the wire around in the baking soda water for about 10 seconds, and then you are done!! Shiny new wire ready for soldering, and conducting once again!!

  10. #10
    apriliaforum expert catfish's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Morgan Territory, CA
    Posts
    1,018
    Learn about electronics-grade rosin-core solder. The rosin cleans the copper when you solder. Pre-cleaning looks impressive,but it's not necessary with right solder.

    Catfish ...

  11. #11
    apriliaforum Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Sydney Australia
    Posts
    205
    Quote Originally Posted by camonc8 View Post
    Especially good on those barby grills I should think precis................
    I am doing this for a living at the moment, I clean domestic Ovens and BBQ's. No Joke, they come up like new and I don't use any caustic cleaners, just detergents. Lets face it, a can of resin will clean up the ends for soldering. If your going to change the connectors because of the Black Crap on the wires, solder the buggers and then no HR joints causing problems. Electricity still flows through wires with the "Black Virus", you just gotta make sure the connections good.

  12. #12
    apriliaforum Junkie
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Offenham Worcestershire
    Posts
    293
    Quote Originally Posted by catfish View Post
    Learn about electronics-grade rosin-core solder. The rosin cleans the copper when you solder. Pre-cleaning looks impressive,but it's not necessary with right solder.

    Catfish ...
    not everyone has access to the solder talked about, but most people have the components in the document readily available.
    I am sure you all have great ideas and solders. This was just something easy I found and thought I would share it guys.

  13. #13
    apriliaforum expert Capoandrew's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Sydney, Australia
    Posts
    3,300
    Any electronics store should sell rosin core solder. If it doesn't, then I would be going somewhere else.

    I tend to agree with Catfish on this. Rosin is a cleaning agent that penetrates surface crud, (to a certain extent) and I had no issues with it when I did my brown connector conversion. Often when I have to solder something, I will allow a bit of rosin to work a contaminated conductor until it's ready to take the solder.

    Westee, your idea is but one road to the end result. I've heard of this method before from some of my old work colleagues.

    I've come from a telco technical back-ground and the acid method is not something we would have used. The only reason being is the potential for residual acid to remain on the conductor and causing further corrosion.

    I used to do earth (ground if you are from the USA) tags for work. The terminals were always cleaned mechanically, crimped and then always soldered. If you missed any of these steps the statutory testers would fail you.


    Mods (so far): Aprilia Rally Raid bars, bar clamp, seat, rear shock absorber, suspension link, front guard, headlight stone guard and lower chain guard. Replica RR sump guard. Leo Vince exhaust, Catfish Mapping. Mk2 Top fairing, painted to match. MG hand guards. Aprilia Dorso indicators. Honda CBR600 Reg. Autocom Intercom. Aux fuse block. H&B side racks. Trax Evo panniers. Tourfella top box Palmer aux bracket. BMW GPS quick release mount. Cyclops LED spot lights. Anakee 2 Tyres. And probably something else I can't think of right now!

    http://capoandrew.blogspot.com

  14. #14
    apriliaforum Junkie macelius's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Seattle, WA
    Posts
    343
    Maybe it was the solder I was using, but I've never had many satisfactory results using just rosin-core solder itself, often it won't want to stick even if I get it to flow, just not enough flux. I always prep my work with rosin flux, it melts in to all the nooks and crannies when you apply the iron, lifts the gunk, helps the heat transfer to the work quickly, and the solder flow. Gets me nice clean joints and I just brush the excess off with rubbing alcohol.
    '02 Caponord - Dust Grey - 20-29K Miles
    Center stand | Factory tank bag | Factory side cases | Factory hand guards | Factory fairing guards | Tuono mirrors | Norge/Breva rear signals | Laminar lip | CPC metal quick-disconnects | 150A relay | Rerouted and joined grounds | Electronic flasher | MOSFET R/R | Metri-Pack 630 Charge Connectors | RTV Silicone sealed all others

    '80 Suzuki GS1000G (sold) | '90 Romet Ogar 205 | '84 Garelli Super Sport XL | '79 Puch Maxi Luxe II | '77 Puch Maxi S | '77 Motobecane 40-TL (sold) | '97 Kinetic TFR

  15. #15
    apriliaforum expert Precis's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia
    Posts
    5,940
    Here's a question for the wise?
    Can solder go "off"?
    I have several rolls of various thicknesses, mostly inherited from my late father's workshop (so all at least 20 years old, most probably trwice that) and frankly, I can't solder for shit. I always assumed it was just my cack-handedness and will wear that - but if it seems I should be working with something made at least in this century, rather than the last one, I might try again.
    So, can solder be "stale"?
    Aut viam inveniam aut faciam

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. How to clean RS250 '03 model caburetors?
    By vanbauer in forum RS250
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 10-20-2006, 02:41 PM
  2. What exactly is in fuel stabilizer? (and how to clean it)
    By aceyx in forum General Motorcycle Talk
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 07-15-2006, 06:58 PM
  3. How to tap a wire off the fuse block?
    By tsombrero in forum ETV1000 CapoNord (2001-2007)
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 01-23-2006, 01:57 PM
  4. How to clean the rear wheel!!?? :S
    By Buchern in forum RS125 Euro-archive
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 09-17-2004, 07:18 PM
  5. how to clean air filtering element (foam stuff)
    By repsolhonda46 in forum RS125 Euro-archive
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 04-18-2004, 10:32 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •