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Thread: Futura chain adjustment

  1. #1
    apriliaforum Junkie
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    Futura chain adjustment

    Is there a state secret on how to adjust the Futura chain? I read the manual and used the pin wrench (developed by a pin head BTW) and I can't move the adjusting wheel, not that the wrench helps at all. The two bolts are completely loose.

    I tried moving it with a drift, and even that doesn't move it much, plus I am concerned it will deform the detents on the adjusting wheel.
    2002 Aprilia RST Futura
    2006 Ducati 999s
    1986 Honda VFR700

  2. #2
    apriliaforum expert Dr_Jakob's Avatar
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    Put the bike on the centerstand and in neutral. Loosen the two No.13 bolts at the back, then use the chain tensioner to adjust the chain. Rotate the wheel as you adjust the chain. Don't forget, it has to be around 2,5cm free play on the chain. That's it.
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  3. #3
    apriliaforum expert Powerful Pierre's Avatar
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    Sounds like its seized, might need to let some penetrating oil soak in there before you try again....then tap it back & forth and apply a bit of patience, soak it some more if it won't go at the first attempt.
    Last edited by Powerful Pierre; 06-10-2013 at 03:33 AM.

  4. #4
    apriliaforum expert Motech's Avatar
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    You're right, that adjusting wrench is useless. Try some lube and a long screwdriver with a hammer.
    No Matter Where You Are, There You Go!

  5. #5
    apriliaforum expert Argh Oh's Avatar
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    It took a lot of penetrating oil, patience, gentle prying, tapping, patience, oil, etc to free mine up. If it works as designed, the wrench actually does work.
    01 Blue #84, 11/12 with: HeliBars, foam grips, 05 map, Borla cans (Replaced by 2" pipe)/stock silencer, derestricted, metal QD, dash socket, wiring mod. Me: Ford relay +10awg & grd, fuel pump rewire, FPR, vac hoses. Evap gone, CBR coils/harness+ Magnecor, clutch switch bypass. S.S. clutch & front line, RaceTech Gold fork, Cogent rebuilt Sachs, tapered head bearings. Added LED run lights/indicators/brake. All signals also run lights. All lights but Hi/park/brake on dash switch. Hi beam mod, vest plug, wiring block, blue dash SMD's/Red V meter, Tune IFT, PCIII gone. Stripped/polished rims, vented screen, rear petal disc. FH008 soldered DC plug/added grd/hard soldered AC. L/R dash indicator lights, RG frame/fork sliders, vented screen.

  6. #6
    apriliaforum expert Robert Borchert's Avatar
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    KD Tools, I believe, makes an alternator tweaking tool. I have one in the toolbox for those older V-belt installations. It is much bigger than the basic one in the tool bag, and it has a cut for your basic square-drive SAE breaker bar. I'll have to dig it up for a photo for you.

    With something like that, you can break the cylinder free. The best penetrating oil is ATF diluted with some acetone. Be careful twacking the teeth with a hammer and drift!

    I was lucky, I guess. Mine rotated easily using the supplied one.

    I'll be running some errands this afternoon, so making a quick run by the workshop fits into the day's schedule. I'll make it quick before they try to give me a problem to look at...day off today.

    I found a pin spanner listed on eBay here. Scroll down to the sizes available. Still, I'll locate mine and will look for a mfg. part number for you.

    Bob
    Last edited by Robert Borchert; 06-10-2013 at 01:25 PM.

  7. #7
    apriliaforum Junkie
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    Argh Oh - what penetrating oil did you use?


    Bob - by ATF, I assume you mean automatic transmission fluid. Any concerns about the ATF/acetone mixture getting on parts? Any other suggestions for penetrating oil as I don't have easy access to acetone (or is that readily available)?
    2002 Aprilia RST Futura
    2006 Ducati 999s
    1986 Honda VFR700

  8. #8
    apriliaforum expert Robert Borchert's Avatar
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    I learned about automatic transmission fluid from hanging out with machinists. ATF is something like, 3wt, but a bit of acetone is a brilliant solvent to thin it for "nut busting".

    I've had good luck with "PB Blaster" over the years as well. With the swingarm, there isn't any paintwork to worry about unless you drool onto the rear wheel, but that's remedied with some handy shop towels.

    Speaking of machinists, I have a diesel cylinder head to pick up as well. Plenty of honey-dos today. Even located a donor car for a new block for a second engine that grenaded last week. Still can't believe that one. I'll get photos of the melee.

    Bob

  9. #9
    apriliaforum expert MartDude's Avatar
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    This just prompted a stray thought. If they were available, would you fit a fully-enclosed chain-guard, to keep the road crud off the chain? You know, like we used to have in the 'Good Old Days'?
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    2002 Futura, Silver - now sold

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  10. #10
    apriliaforum expert Robert Borchert's Avatar
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    Nah, the 525 chain is an O-ring type, with the pins' primary lubrication sealed within. If you use a proper chain lube, like Bel-Ray's Super Clean, for example, the exterior is relatively dry and remains quite clean.

    The key is to adjust your chain properly so that it rides smoothly.

    If your chain was gooped up with heavy lube in the past, take the time to pull the fairing lower and remove the drive sprocket cover, and clean up the interior. With a properly maintained drive chain, it will stay clean for some time.

    Bob

  11. #11
    apriliaforum expert deefred's Avatar
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    I greased my excenter at installation 4 years ago and it turns easy for chain adjustments.
    2001 RST Futura in stream Silver.
    Mods: Modified Öhlins fork from mille R, EBC brake discs, HEL front brakelines, Carbon RS 250 front fender, Wiring mod for charging. Engine related:05 map, Iridium plugs, tuneboy, derestriced intake, old mille airboot, staintunes exhaust. Lambda bung hardbrazed in the "breadbox". Öhlins mille R rear shock with 110N/mm spring and the integrated hydraulic preload adjuster. LED Voltmeter installed inside the dash for monitoring charging. Duc 999 radial m/c for brake and clutch. EBC 320mm brake discs
    NWS hugger. Equipment: Famsa tankbag,
    CBR 600 -07 MOSFET R&R FH008EE providing stable 14.4 - 14.5 V (with my wiring mod). Daytona heated grips with mccoi pwm controller and automatic chain oiler

  12. #12
    apriliaforum expert Motech's Avatar
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    Also, it's easier to lube/service/adjust with spanner tool when wheel is off.
    No Matter Where You Are, There You Go!

  13. #13
    apriliaforum Junkie
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    Wheel is off. I'm going the penetrating oil route, as it still doesn't move.

    BTW, what do I lube on the drive side of the rear bearing assembly, once I get the cush cover off?
    2002 Aprilia RST Futura
    2006 Ducati 999s
    1986 Honda VFR700

  14. #14
    apriliaforum expert Robert Borchert's Avatar
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    Motech has a good thought there, as I just confirmed at the shop. The rear cog bolts interfere with the alternator tool, as does the tire when using a longer (Kowa Seiki) pin spanner.

    Remove the two pinch bolts completely, and spread the rear pinch a little bit using either a large screwdriver blade or a properly-sized chisel blade. Only expand the pinch enough that you see the tab move a little bit. Apply the penetrant at the crack, and at the left side teeth, have a beer, and see if the assembly will break free after it's soaked for a few.

    To lube the cush side splines, a little grease should do the trick. I've always favored a dab of anti-seize on spline teeth as well.

    Bob

  15. #15
    apriliaforum expert Argh Oh's Avatar
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    What Bob et al have said. I gently spread the pinch, squirted PB Blaster, tapped, revisited. Tapped the cog slightly to turn, eventually it freed up enough to do than any adjustment using spanner.
    01 Blue #84, 11/12 with: HeliBars, foam grips, 05 map, Borla cans (Replaced by 2" pipe)/stock silencer, derestricted, metal QD, dash socket, wiring mod. Me: Ford relay +10awg & grd, fuel pump rewire, FPR, vac hoses. Evap gone, CBR coils/harness+ Magnecor, clutch switch bypass. S.S. clutch & front line, RaceTech Gold fork, Cogent rebuilt Sachs, tapered head bearings. Added LED run lights/indicators/brake. All signals also run lights. All lights but Hi/park/brake on dash switch. Hi beam mod, vest plug, wiring block, blue dash SMD's/Red V meter, Tune IFT, PCIII gone. Stripped/polished rims, vented screen, rear petal disc. FH008 soldered DC plug/added grd/hard soldered AC. L/R dash indicator lights, RG frame/fork sliders, vented screen.

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