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Thread: FYI: RSV4 valve adj w/engine in the chassis

  1. #16
    apriliaforum Junkie
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    Second that. You have to lock the crank. Front bank is just dying to jump forward 150 degrees! Even on engine stand when doing cam degreeing it's very hard to control

  2. #17
    apriliaforum Junkie hdtech's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tim Radley View Post
    Second that. You have to lock the crank. Front bank is just dying to jump forward 150 degrees! Even on engine stand when doing cam degreeing it's very hard to control
    I found keeping the spark plugs in made it much easier
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  3. #18
    apriliaforum expert
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    Thanks for all the good advice, Amauri and Tim.

    Why would keeping the spark plugs in make it much easier, hdtech?

  4. #19
    apriliaforum expert
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    Could you use a couple of piston stops down the spark plug holes to lock the crank in position?
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  5. #20
    apriliaforum Junkie
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    Quote Originally Posted by Diablo1 View Post
    Could you use a couple of piston stops down the spark plug holes to lock the crank in position?
    Compression of the engine. Much easier just to whip the covers off and use the holes in the crank. You can lock it with a long thin posi screwdriver if needs be.

  6. #21
    apriliaforum Junkie hdtech's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rspec99 View Post
    Thanks for all the good advice, Amauri and Tim.

    Why would keeping the spark plugs in make it much easier, hdtech?
    It holds the compression in cylinders that don't have valves open and keeps the cranks in position much easier. I found this works well with most motors except single cylinders because there is not other cylinder there for balance...... Try it.... you might be surprised
    Steel Horse Performance
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  7. #22
    apriliaforum expert
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    Aprilia racing do a gasket for that cover. A paper one. I never found a part number for it though, it might be in the WSBK fiche. Is that still on the racing site? If not i can forward you a copy if you don't have it.
    Would it be difficult to make from a sheet of gasket paper ?

  8. #23
    just another Aprilia fanatic amauri's Avatar
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    I can't find that p/n in any of the race dept parts catalogues either.

    I have a local source that can scan the part in to a computer program and make accurate gaskets from any material desired.
    That's why I aksed if anyone has a used/damaged alt cover to loan me.
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  9. #24
    apriliaforum expert GreaseSnake's Avatar
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    When I havn't got the proper locking tools I use my indicator for the same purpose.
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    some brands have rediculous prices on their special tools.
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  10. #25
    just another Aprilia fanatic amauri's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GreaseSnake View Post
    When I havn't got the proper locking tools I use my indicator for the same purpose.

    some brands have rediculous prices on their special tools.
    There's certainly more than one way to do the job.

    Using a dial indicator to find TDC and then mounting a degree wheel on the crank to find the cam lobe centers before disassembly is certainly possible.
    But much more time consuming and not practical with the motor in the chassis.

    Another benefit to using the Aprilia tools is that the motor is not timed with any of the pistons set at TDC.
    The tools lock the crank in a position where none of the eight cam lobes on the bank being timed are compressing the valve springs.
    This makes it a lot easier when repositioning the cams, torquing the bearing towers, and inserting the timing pin.

    To time the front cylinders #2 and #4, you start with #1 at TDC and then rotate another 150 before locking the crank, lock the cams, setting the tenioner and finally torquing the bolts.
    After timing #2 and 4, rotate the crank 300 degrees and time #1 and 3.

    It's all a bit confusing at first, and as you can imagine the Aprilia supplied tools save a lot of time.
    Never accept mediocrity, always demand competence.

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  11. #26
    just another Aprilia fanatic amauri's Avatar
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    Some more FYI,

    Worked on two more bikes this week with valve adjustments due.

    -2010 R model with 20k miles, found 8 valves a little out of specs but one Intake was so tight that a .001" feeler gauge would not go in.

    -2010 Factory with 11k miles all but two EX valves were right on spec.


    Important:
    Bellow is a photo of the o-ring on the cam bearing towers that must be replaced to prevent an oil leak thru the spark plug holes (the parts book calls it a dust seal BTW).
    The list of gaskets needed for a proper valve adj:

    2-) 897442 v/c gasket
    6-) 898410 bolt gasket
    4-) 857074 plug hole to cover gasket
    4-) 857043 cam tower o-ring
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    Last edited by amauri; 07-04-2012 at 11:20 AM.
    Never accept mediocrity, always demand competence.

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  12. #27
    apriliaforum expert cantcode86's Avatar
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    Amauri, could you please measure how much you had to cut off of special tool 020865?

    Thanks in advance.

  13. #28
    apriliaforum prov-nov Westy's Avatar
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    Any chance you'd like to sell kits of these modified tools so those of us that live 3+ hours from a dealership can do the job without destroying our motors?

  14. #29
    just another Aprilia fanatic amauri's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cantcode86 View Post
    Amauri, could you please measure how much you had to cut off of special tool 020865?
    To be honest with you, I didn't take any measurements on how much I had to trim the tool.
    I just used a 4" grinder and a flat file to remove enough material so the tool would slide into position, not that much work really.

    Quote Originally Posted by Westy View Post
    Any chance you'd like to sell kits of these modified tools so those of us that live 3+ hours from a dealership can do the job without destroying our motors?
    If you’re up for a challenge I suppose I could make another set, PM me if you decide to go this route and we'll see what we can do.
    Never accept mediocrity, always demand competence.

    Certified Aprilia Moto Service in Southern California
    Call me at 714 892-4056 for appointment

  15. #30
    apriliaforum expert Trinity666's Avatar
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    lookin at one of those cut away v4 pics it dawns on me my issue may be much simpler. the stethascope says outer front left, fuel and power dont match a valve issue as their fine. well whats left, broken spring or failed tentioner.

    it doesnt matter shes getting fixed on the 14th, but if its a broken spring could the rod drop and scar the piston? would spring bits show on my drain magnet as ulrta thin silver shinny metal shavings (which iv had)? what could fail on the hydrolic tentioner? i imagine the vains would be vary small and may plug with gunk but cant c it having a lot of parts to fail.

    I know its a mine field but just a little insight or experience would help a lot, plz if u have had any dealings in this area comment on this post or just a piece of it.
    "I currently hold the record for the only player to take his skate off and try to stab somebody with it" -Happy Gilmore

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