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Thread: New, old Scarabeo 150 purchase

  1. #1
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    New, old Scarabeo 150 purchase

    I'm hopefully about to acquire a 2005 Scarabeo 150 with about 500 miles total. The bike has been sitting outside under a cover for all of it's life and has not been started for 3 or 4 years. Obviously, it'll need a new battery. What should I be looking at before purchase, and what should I plan on doing to get it on the road other than a change of all fluids? I'm fairly mechanical and have been doing most of my own maintenance on my MP3 250 and my wife's 125cc Chinese knock off. There's a competent local scooter shop if necessary.

    Thanks!

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    alot of work carb off in hand flushing etc good luck lotsa cleaning etc break up dead gas intank etc ..

  3. #3
    apriliaforum expert ispud's Avatar
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    sweet deal - post a picture please - I am kinda keeping my eyes open for a nice 150 or 250 with low miles and shiney. I still have space for a few more in my shop!

    >>
    Ispud
    2008 200 Scarabeo (fool me once) spooky
    2009 Kymco People 250 S Work horse
    2006 Honda Big Ruckus (sold 10-14)
    2004 500 Scarabeo Cadilac
    2006 S250 sold for top dollar
    2013 BV350 screwing with me bit time
    2009 SC250 Cube (whatever that means) sold...never liked it

  4. #4
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    A 7 year old 4 stroke bike sitting outside with some minimal form of covering for that whole time and has not been run for over half its life. All the rubber parts are now suspect and would need replacing including the drive belt, tires, brake lines, master cylinder seals/pistons and caliper seals/pistons.

    Look for signs of rodents and chewed wires/tubing also.

    Carb will most likely require some cleaning if not a full rebuild. Cvt and clutch would also require full service with replacement of the rollers and fresh grease of everything that moves and is supposed to have grease on/in it. Wheel bearings from lack of movement would also have bad seals and most likely be suffereng from some form of grease seperation and may need replacing.

    Before starting I would pull the sparkplug and fill the cylinder with diesel fuel or kerosene to clean/free up the piston rings. Also fill the crankcase and gearcase with kerosene, let it soak for a day or so and then flush it out with fresh.

    Electrical connections, relays and switches may also have internal corrosion and could be problematic over time.

  5. #5
    apriliaforum expert ispud's Avatar
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    or maybe not such a sweet deal!

    >>
    Ispud
    2008 200 Scarabeo (fool me once) spooky
    2009 Kymco People 250 S Work horse
    2006 Honda Big Ruckus (sold 10-14)
    2004 500 Scarabeo Cadilac
    2006 S250 sold for top dollar
    2013 BV350 screwing with me bit time
    2009 SC250 Cube (whatever that means) sold...never liked it

  6. #6
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    UNF: No one Really does all that .. we'd like to imagine tis so though. Hay have much fun with it though Tis a Nice Un

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    The deal is done at $500, subject to inspection. He has all the keys and manuals. The bike has both the top box and factory panniers, so I'm very happy with the deal! Based on the good price and the above comments, I'm just going to take it directly to the local scooter shop and let them work it over. I don't trust myself to clean the carb and look at the belt, rollers, etc. I've read that the scooter has idle problems with fuel containing ethanol, should we change a jet while the carb is off? Other than what's been mentioned above, what else should be checked while we're at it?

    The scooter is black, not my favorite color. I have a local body shop that does excellent paint work. How much trouble is it to get all the plastic off for a repaint?

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    Tom - As a kid I spent a bunch of time at the neighbors where they went through old float planes taking them down to the frame and verified each bolt, weld, rivet, wire, cable, pulley, bearing, switch, etc, etc. It has became ingrained to apply this methodology to everything.

    Took Maxwells course on effective business and the law of the price tag applies whether we want it to or not. Sooner or later you are going to have to pay the pricetag however the longer you put it off the more it will usually cost. A 7 year old bike will need maintenance regardless of the mileage and it will cost you less in the long run to take care of it now instead of nickel and diming it over time. Replace the belt, rollers and CVT guides and lube the clutch and sleeve now or do it later and possible have to replace the drive faces, clutch and gear case input bearings in the next year or so along with doing the maintenance that was skipped when you first got the bike.

    I helped someone this past year who short cut things and just got the bike to start and rode it. What he skipped made it so instead of paying the pice tag of some maintenance items (a few hoses, belt, rollers, variator guides and some grease/fluids) he was replacing hard parts and rebuilding the gearcase, replacing the clutch and the entire variator. Will failures from skipping the initial maintenance happen to everyone in short time, no but over the life of the bike it will genreate some negative impact eventually and usually at a greater cost then if you took care of things right off.

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    well thats wonderful and maybe a problem at same time I dont know .. So far It hasnt worked out for me and usually no when to say when . I dont get much Govt. work over here so things a lil different but its nice to be able to have n make the time to go over every rivet on your sailplane thats fo sure eh but at least you ll crash over water

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    I'll be borrowing a trailer from the scooter shop to pick up the scooter next week. Any information on how to properly secure the bike using straps would be appreciated. I'm guessing it shouldn't be on the center stand, correct?

  11. #11
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    theres these straps that go in bar ends and a wheel chock You should be set no stands on bike used google to see pictures of setup on a trailer

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    I was just at the shop and looked at the setup. I was incorrect in calling it a trailer, it's simply a channel rail that sits crosswise in and is supported by a trailer hitch. No wheels at all. There's a ramp which is used to roll the scooter up onto the rail. Apparently, two straps attached to the bars pull the scooter forward against a chock in the rail. No other straps are used. The mechanic claims that it's very secure. We'll be using a Ford Explorer for the transport.

    Tom, I guess I remove the bar end weights in order to attach the straps, correct? Do you see any potential problems with this set up?

    Thanks again!

  13. #13
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    nope have similar and the setup is only like 200$ 250 cc bike is bout its limit though but the 150 rt at home there . Some people just loosen bar ends and slip web strap in that Valley

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    For what it's worth, I hauled my Beo 150 500 miles in the back of my Astro. I'd measure the Explorer carefully to see if it will fit in there with all the seats folded down. You'll for sure have to remove whatever windscreen it has and the mirrors, but you may find it will fit in there. If it does, what I did with mine was to lean it on the sidestand, although it was pretty well wedged in place and likely wouldn't have moved around much. Then take a pair of those nylon web straps with the ratcheting buckle and strap 'er down. Your main concern is to keep it from moving forward or side-to-side. Worry less about it going backwards. Unless you're into drag-race starts...
    Good luck!
    Steve

  15. #15
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    I use the Harbor Freight hitch carrier and just wrap the wratchet straps around the hand grips for the front and then use the passenger pegs to strap down the rear. If your are binding things tight enough to damage the hand grips then you are way too tight on the tie downs. I double up the straps and thread them through the wratchets and I am pulling the loops over the handgrips so there are no metal hooks or twisting actions taking place.

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