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Thread: How To Guide: RSV4R Oil Change

  1. #16
    apriliaforum Junkie
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    yep, I covered the O ring with oil. Just wanted to see how tight it needs to be fit.
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  2. #17
    Graphicologist Extraordinaire ckruzel's Avatar
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    hand tight is fine
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  3. #18
    apriliaforum expert bartho's Avatar
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    capacity oil

    In the online service manual they state to fill up (with oil filter change) with 4 liter oil. Here they say 3,8 liter.
    I changed yesterday and fill up with 4 Li. Now I see the oil is coming in the side glass, with cold motor, to the upper mark. Is this to much ?
    Because "control oil" must be done with hot engine.
    bartho

  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by bartho View Post
    In the online service manual they state to fill up (with oil filter change) with liter oil. Here they say 3,8 liter.
    I changed yesterday and fill up with 4 Li. Now I see the oil is coming in the side glass, with cold motor, to the upper mark. Is this to much ?
    Because "control oil" must be done with hot engine.
    I try to fill my bikes so the oil is midway between max and min on the sight glass. If you prefilled your oil filter and then added 4 L then you'll be over the max

  5. #20
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    I buy 4L of oil every time. I fill the filter with some of the first one and then pour the rest in the motor. When the bike is warmed up and then allowed to sit for a couple of minutes the oil settles right at the max line every time.

  6. #21
    apriliaforum expert Chris_Mag's Avatar
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    If it's noticeably above the full line with the bike on level ground with the bike upright, remove oil until it's correct. Sounds like you're probably ok though Bartho.
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  7. #22
    apriliaforum expert fastmike's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Don View Post
    Great write up.

    My little tip (from experience) is to be careful when you remove the drain plug. The oil shoots out with fair force, misses the pan you have carefully positioned under the bike, and goes all over the garage floor!! lol.



    I can second that experience. Get a very wide mouth bucket, or put the drain pan about 1' further than where you think it's gonna hit.

    I think I caught about 1/2 the oil.

  8. #23
    apriliaforum Junkie jsin38's Avatar
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    New to the forum and did the oil change on my RSV4 Factory tonight. Wanted to thank all of those who gave great advice in this thread especially regarding positioning of the catch pan. I didn't spill a drop!
    ~Jason

  9. #24
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    The link seems to be very helpful; we can get rid of most of our bike problems I guess.

  10. #25
    apriliaforum newb lowkee's Avatar
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    I did the oil change with the information provided. It was a great help.

  11. #26
    apriliaforum prov-nov
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    Sorry if this has already been mentioned - would the instructions be identical for a 2011 RSV4 R APRC?

  12. #27
    apriliaforum prov-nov RSV4 Jay's Avatar
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    Thats a mega post for changing the oil is that, proper! , may have to bin the workshop manual if you keep this lark up cocker. Awesome. And idiot proof
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  13. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by newtomoto View Post
    Guys,

    What is the recommended installation procedure for the oil filter? I hand tightened it and then rotated it half turn with some filter pliers. Is that OK?
    Technically, ASE says hand tighten and do an extra 1/8 turn. Personally, I'll hand tighten, give the tiniest turn with the wrench, start the bike, and check for leaks before I put the plastic on.

  14. #29
    apriliaforum Junkie EricD's Avatar
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    On my japanese bikes, I used to hand-tighten the oil filter and drain plug but on my RSV4, it appears that it wasn't enough. I changed the oil before a track week-end and coming back from it, both the drain plug and the filter had loosened by about an eight of a turn. Just enough to drip a little oil but not enough to cause any oil starvation issues.

    I took apart the lower and side fairings and cleaned the inside of any oil that dripped out and then proceeded to change the oil again. I usually hand tighten things when changing the oil, the first bike I bought used had a cracked oil pan because the PO over torqued the drain plug but I'm not sure how to handle this one.

    I've hand tightened things a little more this time around, plus I got time to order replacement crush washers to that probably helped. My torque wrench doesn't do small numbers like 30Nm (22ft-lbs according to the online converter)... any other ideas out there?

  15. #30
    apriliaforum Member Hawkeye's Avatar
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    Great thread. I found the descriptions for fairing removal to be immensely useful. Thanks to the OP for taking the time and trouble.

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