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Thread: Sport City 250 Stalling

  1. #61
    apriliaforum expert armadillored's Avatar
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    I had the same stalling problem with mu 250. It was the fuel pump - the old style one and it was replaced under warrantee by the dealer. Since then (about 3 years ago) it works perfectly. Apparently the pump heats up and sizes to the housing. Then it has to cool off before it will work again.
    '67 BMW R69S-"Toots" in rehab
    '09 Silver SC250
    Previous rides:
    '04 Chinese 125
    '06 X9-500
    '08 MP3-400
    '06 BV500

    '09 Mana

  2. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by armadillored View Post
    I had the same stalling problem with mu 250. It was the fuel pump - the old style one and it was replaced under warrantee by the dealer. Since then (about 3 years ago) it works perfectly. Apparently the pump heats up and sizes to the housing. Then it has to cool off before it will work again.
    Hopefully they did not accidentally send him another old style fuel pump however even that should have worked for some time before failing again.

    Some mess up though when they replace the fuel pump or work on the fuel system since they do not fill up the tank with at least 2 liters of fuel to cool and lubricate the pump during its initial prime. Try to prime a new fuel pump without enough fuel to completely submerge the pump and you can ruin it. This is also critical when storing your bike for an extended period of time since you need to have enough fuel to cover the top of the pump during storage so you won't be starting it with a dry fuel pump.

    This information is on page 164 of the Service Station Manual.

  3. #63
    apriliaforum expert armadillored's Avatar
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    That's good to know Rockynv. When I stored my bikes and scooters for winter, I always filled up the tank and put in gas preservative.
    '67 BMW R69S-"Toots" in rehab
    '09 Silver SC250
    Previous rides:
    '04 Chinese 125
    '06 X9-500
    '08 MP3-400
    '06 BV500

    '09 Mana

  4. #64
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    Fuel injection systems with submerged rubber impeller pumps require special considerations. Running out of gas or even continuing on once the low fuel level light comes on can cause the fuel pump to fail too. Its best to fuel early and not wait since pump replacement is costly and labor intensive. Some people found out the hard way trying to run their fuel injected bikes dry for storage only to find they had compromised the fuel pumps in doing so.

  5. #65
    apriliaforum expert armadillored's Avatar
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    Good advice Rockynv
    '67 BMW R69S-"Toots" in rehab
    '09 Silver SC250
    Previous rides:
    '04 Chinese 125
    '06 X9-500
    '08 MP3-400
    '06 BV500

    '09 Mana

  6. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rockynv View Post
    Hopefully they did not accidentally send him another old style fuel pump however even that should have worked for some time before failing again.

    Some mess up though when they replace the fuel pump or work on the fuel system since they do not fill up the tank with at least 2 liters of fuel to cool and lubricate the pump during its initial prime. Try to prime a new fuel pump without enough fuel to completely submerge the pump and you can ruin it. This is also critical when storing your bike for an extended period of time since you need to have enough fuel to cover the top of the pump during storage so you won't be starting it with a dry fuel pump.

    This information is on page 164 of the Service Station Manual.
    Hi,
    I had filled the tank the day before fitting the new pump, (checked my credit card fuel receipts to see exactly when), and with premium unleaded ultimate from BP, (98 octane I think). Unfortunately it doesn't appear to be the pump as the one I took out was showing good pressure before I did and was the revised one anyway with three dots on the top. The new one was also the revised one with three dots on but I thought I'd give it a try in case it was the regulator or filter despite the good pressure reading.
    I have my replacement coolant hose on order as I have spotted some damage to one, and the clutch bearings to fit which will keep me busy this weekend if they arrive in time, though I don't believe the bearings will be the answer given there's no drag at all when on the stand as the wheel can actually stay stationary it idles so low when it isn't cutting out. I hope I'm wrong.
    I'm still going through the regime of fuel system cleaner additive with each tank of fuel in the hope I see some improvement but again I don't think I'm seeing any after three tanks full with a good quality additive in each. The first bottle cost more than a tank of fuel!
    I've found my multi-meter so will check battery/frame resistance.
    I'm going to see if I can check the coil and maybe the pick up next if there is test data for both. Am looking to see what there is in the manual shortly.

  7. #67
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    Whilst waiting for parts to arrive I haven't done much more but it has given me time to think. I've said it previously I think but I'm tempted to go back to the start of cleaning the throttle body. Part of my thinking behind this is that when spraying cleaner down the air bypass to try and clean the stepper moving part that reduces and increases airflow I wonder if I'm only getting cleaner onto the part that is exposed and what about the rest of the 'plunger' (or whatever it is called)? m I not cleaning it thoroughly enough to ensure it moves properly, how can I be sure I cleaned the whole of the plunger and the channel it moves back and forth in? Is it getting stuck in areas I can't get cleaner too with the spray throttle body cleaner?
    As a result I started to google the cleaning of the throttle body looking to see if anyone has actually opened it and removed the stepper motor. I couldn't find anything that indicates anyone that has or has opened the body up at all. All I found was the below image on Magnetti Marelli's website of it open.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Anyone opened it up?
    Can I pull the stepper if I do and clean the passage the plunger sits in?
    Will it go back together with the stepper set correctly or is there a danger it goes out of sequence?
    Any experience or advice appreciated.

    If I get to the point where I have to buy one then I have nothing to lose trying it but not really up for doing so until then if the risk is high.

  8. #68
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    I believe that Micah from AF1 has commented recently on some issues with the throttle body along with provided some info on work around's to get past some age related issues without having to invest in a new throttle body. I haven't had any problems with mine so I've yet to open it up.

  9. #69
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    Ah yes, the vacuum port using a mower petcock. I liked that idea and it would offer a temporary solution whilst I continue to work out what is going on. Would want to fit it to a spare air intake manifold though.

  10. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rockynv View Post
    Fuel injection systems with submerged rubber impeller pumps require special considerations. Running out of gas or even continuing on once the low fuel level light comes on can cause the fuel pump to fail too. Its best to fuel early and not wait since pump replacement is costly and labor intensive. Some people found out the hard way trying to run their fuel injected bikes dry for storage only to find they had compromised the fuel pumps in doing so.
    dude you are so full of shit that its a chore to come here anymore. You drivel your bullshit all over this forum and dont know shit all about working on two wheels. Do new fuel pumps come soaked in fuel? Gee I wonder why? But dry storing a pump makes it fail?? hahahahhahaah But you know everything. Like your missing spacer theory. Face it... you are a freaking hack wrench with the diagnostic ability of a single cell amoeba and made trivial mental errors like forgetting to install all the parts you took off. One thing is for sure... Im not the only person that feels this way about your constant misinformation campaign.
    How much would it take for me to buy you out of your sportcity? $500?

  11. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by superloopy24v View Post
    Ah yes, the vacuum port using a mower petcock. I liked that idea and it would offer a temporary solution whilst I continue to work out what is going on. Would want to fit it to a spare air intake manifold though.
    Removing a few bolts and the fuel injector along with the purchase of a $53 intake fitting. Did Micah's work around require modification of the intake or just tapping into an existing vacuum line?
    https://www.af1racing.com/store/Scri...ING+%2D+875694

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