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Thread: How to Have Both Headlights On on Sportcity

  1. #16
    apriliaforum expert scooterman's Avatar
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    I see, thanks for the thorough explanation and research. I've seen some high output Philips H7 size lamps that I believe draw the same, perhaps that's a more reasonable direction to pursue in this quest for increased luminance?

    Here's the blah blah...

    http://www.newscenter.philips.com/ma...see_better.wpd
    Last edited by scooterman; 10-30-2011 at 11:46 PM.


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  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by scooterman View Post
    I see, thanks for the thorough explanation and research. I've seen some high output Philips H7 size lamps that I believe draw the same, perhaps that's a more reasonable direction to pursue in this quest for increased luminance?

    Here's the blah blah...

    http://www.newscenter.philips.com/ma...see_better.wpd
    Looks interesting. Would help with normal driving on low beams too not just on high beams. A bit pricey at $50+ per bulb and you have to watch out for fakes.

    For my daily rider that gets me back and forth to work starting before sunrise most days something to really consider as a pop-in, no fuss alterative. Only question is how much additional heat comes with the high output?

    Will look into them more seriously when it comes time for bulb replacement which nowadays seems to be on an annual schedual according to those selling headlight bulbs.

  3. #18
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    You wont need Hi lo HID they dont work well the Hi when flipped takes a few seconds to warm up n brite up correctly and youre turning em off Not good fo HID Use Hi / lo Single Hid bulbs the A magnet moves the Bulb assy in n out from the reflector and mimicks Hi beam with NO wait I use em nightly on several machines in H 11 9006 etc Bulbs 16$ pr on web 2 reg ballasts 50$ dont use slim ballasts they burn out Quickly Ive watched Two smoke in my hand Circuits to small needs R&D work still Im using German TUV stuff to much better than China

  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rockynv View Post

    If we dig deeper looking at the circuit itself and do the math things don't look that great either. Fuse No5 is 15 amps and protects the headlights, running lights, stop light, turn signals, instrument cluster and horn. When you add up the load on the circuit with the passing lights on which comes to between 14 to 15 amps, if you hit the brakes and the horn at the same time you could end up blowing the fuse as you could be close to 18 amps or greater draw on a 15 amp circuit. Maybe 17.5 amps or possibly 18.5 depending on whether the Sport City has a 20, 25 or 30 watt horn and assuming that the instrument cluster and it LED lighting only draws 10 watts or less. The likelyhood of failure increases the longer you run the bike with the clip in place to run the passing lights instead of just the single high beam.

    On further thought if we also consider that loading Fuse No5 to max puts about a 200 watt or greater load on a 320 watt system, that only leaves about 120 watts or less to run the fuel pump, ecm, fuel injector, ignition, etc.

    For long term reliability of the bike I would now after considering the electrical loads say it is not a good idea to bridge the passing lights to the high beams without reducing the load on Fuse No5 first especially if you do any night driving where you would use the high beams. I usually run my vehicles for 10 to 20 years or longer so I usually keep this goal in mind when adding loads to the electrical system.
    These discussions of the electrical capacity of the system leave out a very important element - the battery. It is fully capable of handling any intermittent surge loads applied by the brake lights or the horn. Then the charging circuit restores the lost energy consumed from the battery. The alternator doesn't have to supply the surge power consumption. Rocky correctly points out that the weak link will likely be the fuse, but that also protects the rest of the charging system from any overloads.
    I have been using the jumper wire to have both bulbs on for a year, with no negative effects. The voltmeter registers 14 volts with a single or double bulb lit, convincing me that the charging system is not at all overloaded. Also, the dual bulbs are not just for night time - they improve our visibility in the daytime, too, a great safety factor. In fact, the only time I switch to the single bulb is at night in traffic to avoid blinding oncoming traffic. I have been pleased with the conversion, and people no longer tell me my headlight is burned out!!

  5. #20
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    Hi I'm new to the forum as I've just got a SC cube 300.

    I would like to Mod the headlights to have both lights on for the "low setting" can this be done?

    Thanks

  6. #21
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    I can be done but would be ill advised if not illegal in many areas. When there is oncomming traffic you would not be able to go back to the factory low beam and could be found at fault if someone was blinded by your high beam and had a mishap.

  7. #22
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    Its not illegal her in the UK most scooters and motorbikes have both headlights. I only want the low beam but full beam would be fine aswell.

  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lanyu View Post
    Its not illegal her in the UK most scooters and motorbikes have both headlights. I only want the low beam but full beam would be fine aswell.
    That does not make sense that bypassing things so you can't dim your lights to low beams for safe riding in traffic is no longer possible would be lawfull. Most places I have driven if you ride with your high beams on in traffic you will get pulled over and ticketed for driving to endanger. If you don't comply with the constables request to dim your lights then the bike could be impounded.

    When a bike is set up so that both lights work together from the factory then they are both dual fillament bulbs with a low and a high setting. In the Sport City you have one single filament High Beam bulb on the left and one single filament Low Beam bulb on the right. You run the Left Lamp and you are running a High Beam lamp that will be focused into the eyes of any other drivers on the road. You run like that and you may end up with an lorry driver trying his best to make you into a hood ornament.

  9. #24
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    The bulbs that are on the bike are exactly the same 2x 12v-55W -H7 all I'm trying to do is arrange the lights so that for the dipped/low beam both headlights are on as we ride with lights on and it looks silly with just one headlight on and people think the bulbs blown nobody is going to be blinded by it as its to dull anyway?

  10. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lanyu View Post
    The bulbs that are on the bike are exactly the same 2x 12v-55W -H7 all I'm trying to do is arrange the lights so that for the dipped/low beam both headlights are on as we ride with lights on and it looks silly with just one headlight on and people think the bulbs blown nobody is going to be blinded by it as its to dull anyway?
    Both bulbs may be the same wattage but they are focused differently. The left bulb also has no upper shield and will blind oncomming drivers and obscure things on foggy or misty nights. Dull is not a word that desribes the Sport City headlights on the US model. They are brighter than the OEM lamps on many automobiles. I get complaints from those I follow at night that even the low beam is too bright when I come up behind them.

    Don't compromise safety for vainity is the best fatherly advice this old man can give you. There is nothing silly about the headlights on the Sport City.

  11. #26
    apriliaforum expert Buckeroo Bob's Avatar
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    You just need to aim them properly. The adjusting screws aren't the best and the plastic housing doesn't slide very well. You sometimre have to coax it along to get the lights to move to aim them.

  12. #27
    apriliaforum Junkie Aprilionare's Avatar
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    the shiny refector stuff inside the lens is designed for the high side to reflect higer than the low side. I have aimed my high side bulb lower and noticed the reflective difference on the high side. It is on the opposite side for UK/AU/JP bikes.
    If you find yourself in a fair fight, your tactics suck.


  13. #28
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    Yes you can try to aim it lower however without the sheild to prevent upward glare in fog or mist for safety you need to be able to turn that bulb off. If you shunt the low beam side of the switch to run both passing lights then your only alternate setting is the unshielded high beam bulb which is not any good in fog or mist. If you are going to shunt anything it would be the high beam side of the switch so you would still have the option to run only the shielded bulb when weather conditions demand it.

  14. #29
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    From reading your comments it seems that there is a big difference between UK bike and the US as having both of the lights on dipped beam on my bike isn't going to blind anyone.

  15. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lanyu View Post
    From reading your comments it seems that there is a big difference between UK bike and the US as having both of the lights on dipped beam on my bike isn't going to blind anyone.
    Then you will be defeating the real high beam and passing light by aiming them too low. In that configuration you loose the ability to light up a dark country lane and are at risk of over running your headlights. Not good either.

    I ride out in the country after midnight from time to time and there is no way I would want to ride with a crippled high beam or passing light because I don't like hearing an occasional query as to why only one headlamp is lit.

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