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Thread: HOW-TO (Engine Side) Brown Connector MOD

  1. #1
    apriliaforum expert Stanleybobly's Avatar
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    HOW-TO (Engine Side) Brown Connector MOD

    So here we go...

    difficulty grade : normal
    time: +- 1 hour.
    needed: soldering iron, metripack 280 3 pin connector, wire puller, fiberglass heat shield hose 10mm diameter (at your local Walmart).


    Most bikes use unsealed type connectors and these are the biggest cause of problems later,
    due to corrosion causing arcing and eventual meltdown and loss of current flow.

    Did this mod with an "fancy" Metripack 280 connector.

    specs:


    Other did removed and solder it together. That's on some Capo's very difficult. Wiring harness is too small (in my case).
    Others have more room to solder. Within the tiny space surrounded with bunch of thin cables


    lift and remove the tank.


    pull the big rubber socket, where bunch of connectors hide.
    undo the connectors. Chop the brown bastard from behind and strip it.
    Pull it to side of your shiny frame (don't forget to put some protective cloth to it)


    go to left side of the bike.
    pull the wire (3 yellow) from the alternator side, let it hang.
    put some cloth to protect your frame.


    I bought a fiberglass heat shield hose for wiring in ovens.
    this particular hose is protective till 450C
    put this over the original black hose of the 3 yellow wires from the alternator side.


    crimp the 3 wires with the male terminals. solder the terminal for a secure connection.


    use the wire puller to pull it from the right side and (duck)tape the crimped & soldered terminals.


    gently pull


    remove the puller and tape.



    push to terminals in to the connector housing. In any order for the wires...


    I used extra Thick wiring harness hose as a protective wall around the housing.
    although Metripack is rated at -40c till 125C. I am a overkill person


    put everything back to gether,...

    and your done.

    now you have a black bastard connector which is water sealed and melt proof (bad current flow on the terminal due oxidation).
    Last edited by Stanleybobly; 04-20-2011 at 05:31 PM. Reason: pics

    sold: "01 Caponord |Flame Red|, Modlist done: Honda CBR600 RR Mosfet (FH008) Rectifier Mod, Brown Connector Mod
    now: "04 Caponord |Rally Raid| FH016 Mosfet R/R | GPR Titanium Exhaust|
    01 Futura [infinity blue]
    Caponord Stanleybobly style loomed MOSFET Rectifiers & Fuelline Kit FS

  2. #2
    apriliaforum expert the_toe_cutter's Avatar
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    Excellent stuff, stickyifcation beckons.
    Really dig the hi temp insulation wrap!
    To add, i was advised by either BigSteve or Grumpy to route these wires all the way to the rec reg, seemed like good advice. I see you also used 'a puller' to enable you have the same routing when pulling it back.
    Brum Brum

  3. #3
    apriliaforum expert Stanleybobly's Avatar
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    yes, I also was thinking of re-routing the alternator wires to the r/r.
    I am lazy lately......
    wonder Aprilia wakes up or are they lazy as I am ...........
    Last edited by Stanleybobly; 04-20-2011 at 04:37 PM.

    sold: "01 Caponord |Flame Red|, Modlist done: Honda CBR600 RR Mosfet (FH008) Rectifier Mod, Brown Connector Mod
    now: "04 Caponord |Rally Raid| FH016 Mosfet R/R | GPR Titanium Exhaust|
    01 Futura [infinity blue]
    Caponord Stanleybobly style loomed MOSFET Rectifiers & Fuelline Kit FS

  4. #4
    apriliaforum expert Stanleybobly's Avatar
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    and this is how my brown "bastard" connector looked like :
    look at middle terminal
    male and female housing melted together, I had to use force to open it after I chopped it.



    Last edited by Stanleybobly; 04-20-2011 at 04:55 PM.

    sold: "01 Caponord |Flame Red|, Modlist done: Honda CBR600 RR Mosfet (FH008) Rectifier Mod, Brown Connector Mod
    now: "04 Caponord |Rally Raid| FH016 Mosfet R/R | GPR Titanium Exhaust|
    01 Futura [infinity blue]
    Caponord Stanleybobly style loomed MOSFET Rectifiers & Fuelline Kit FS

  5. #5
    apriliaforum expert catfish's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stanleybobly View Post
    and this is how my brown "bastard" connector looked like :
    look at middle terminal
    male and female housing melted together, I had to use force to open it after I chopped it.
    ...

    I will offer a different opinion about the OEM connectors & problems.

    Some of the early model Caponords (2001-2005) appear to have some lubricant-contaminated wires in the wiring harnesses. If you open a connector & see BLACK wires in a crimp, this is what I'm talking about. Its not caused by water getting into the connector. This lubricant is used in the manufacturing process of the wire. The wire is then cleaned & insulated. The "cleaning station" appears to have had intermittent problems. Initial "electrical" testing of harnesses looked fine, I'm sure. However, over time the lubricant & heat poison the copper wire to crimp interface. As that resistance goes up, the heat generated from the current-squared times resistance losses get hot enough to melt the connector housings.

    If you inspect the connectors BEFORE they have melted, then they can easily be repaired without replacing anything, and they will never melt.

    Use this technique to disassemble the OEM connectors and solder the wire-in-crimp part of the connector pins. Use a good electronics-grade (rosin-core flux) solder. The flux will clean the copper when heated and the solder will flow & adhere.

    Re-assemble connectors and you are DONE. A good solder job will prevent this wire-to-crimp interface from going bad in the future.

    In the older Caponords, I have found this black-wire problem in many different connectors on the bike. It might be only one wire inside a 6-wire connector, but it needs to be inspected and fixed BEFORE it goes bad and creates a worse problem. I've got a couple of photos of the last bad connector I found. I'll put it online soon.

    The 2006 & 2007 Caponords that I have inspected have not had these contaminated-wire issues.


    Catfish ...

  6. #6
    apriliaforum expert Stanleybobly's Avatar
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    indeed I saw 1 terminal almost completely black.
    Copper Oxidise (look at a old copper penny coin), these terminals are Tin plated.

    I've seen 2007 models Tuono's , RSV 1000 with the same issue on the Brown connector.

    last year I used contact spray on this bastard. But it didn't helped
    Thanks for the info regarding the "black wire"
    Last edited by Stanleybobly; 04-20-2011 at 05:52 PM.

    sold: "01 Caponord |Flame Red|, Modlist done: Honda CBR600 RR Mosfet (FH008) Rectifier Mod, Brown Connector Mod
    now: "04 Caponord |Rally Raid| FH016 Mosfet R/R | GPR Titanium Exhaust|
    01 Futura [infinity blue]
    Caponord Stanleybobly style loomed MOSFET Rectifiers & Fuelline Kit FS

  7. #7
    apriliaforum expert Capoandrew's Avatar
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    I do applaude Stanleybobly for his work, it's well done and professional, however I tend to agree with Catfish.

    Years ago, I used to race a Ducati NCR 900. I had similar issues with some of the various connectors on the bike. Sometimes in the middle of a race I would literally see a connector melt before my eyes. To cure the problem, I first replaced the offending connectors cases without touching the wires. It would last a couple of months and burn again.

    Having this happen in the middle of a race was starting to become frustrating, so I consulted a bike electrician and he suggested stripping the wiring loom and soldering every terminal. Being a pedantic git, I not only did this but replaced every spade or pin ternminal on the bike. I never had a issue again. (Mind you, it cost a bit with some of the odd shaped connectors)

    After talking with some of the Ducati gurus, they mentioned this was an intermittant quality control issue. Some bikes were fine others were an on-going issue. Italians have been known to have dodgy electrics on there bikes (and cars) for some time. Only in recent years has it got better.

    When I get the time (and patience) I will do the same job on the Caponord.

    The connectors Stanleybobly use are top-class. Water ingress should not be an issues with these babies, but for now I'm happy with the standard gear.


    Mods (so far): Aprilia Rally Raid bars, bar clamp, seat, rear shock absorber, suspension link, front guard, headlight stone guard and lower chain guard. Replica RR sump guard. Leo Vince exhaust, Catfish Mapping. Mk2 Top fairing, painted to match. MG hand guards. Aprilia Dorso indicators. Honda CBR600 Reg. Autocom Intercom. Aux fuse block. H&B side racks. Trax Evo panniers. Tourfella top box Palmer aux bracket. BMW GPS quick release mount. Cyclops LED spot lights. Anakee 2 Tyres. And probably something else I can't think of right now!

    http://capoandrew.blogspot.com

  8. #8
    apriliaforum newb
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    I'm going over many items on my bike.
    After reading about so many lower brown connector issues I headed there next.

    I too saw black lubricant in the wire crimping region. (2002 M.Year) But I noticed the mating parts of the connector were in clean condition.
    I feel these are sizable (amperage) connectors with a large contact surface.

    What I noticed is several posted photos of melted connectors appeared to heat from the wire crimped region and not the mating part.

    Dissassembly: I than used a solvent to wash off the lube. Than a Dremel at low speed to brush off any oxide on the wire crimping region.
    I soldered up each wire crimp. Than slightly compressed the female connectors and tested each one separately for firm tension when the connection is made.
    Reassemble, than apply alittle dielectric grease to (hopefully) ward off any corrosion.

  9. #9
    apriliaforum expert Pplummer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by catfish View Post
    I will offer a different opinion about the OEM connectors & problems.

    Some of the early model Caponords (2001-2005) appear to have some lubricant-contaminated wires in the wiring harnesses. If you open a connector & see BLACK wires in a crimp, this is what I'm talking about. Its not caused by water getting into the connector. This lubricant is used in the manufacturing process of the wire. The wire is then cleaned & insulated. The "cleaning station" appears to have had intermittent problems. Initial "electrical" testing of harnesses looked fine, I'm sure. However, over time the lubricant & heat poison the copper wire to crimp interface. As that resistance goes up, the heat generated from the current-squared times resistance losses get hot enough to melt the connector housings.

    If you inspect the connectors BEFORE they have melted, then they can easily be repaired without replacing anything, and they will never melt.

    Use this technique to disassemble the OEM connectors and solder the wire-in-crimp part of the connector pins. Use a good electronics-grade (rosin-core flux) solder. The flux will clean the copper when heated and the solder will flow & adhere.

    Re-assemble connectors and you are DONE. A good solder job will prevent this wire-to-crimp interface from going bad in the future.

    In the older Caponords, I have found this black-wire problem in many different connectors on the bike. It might be only one wire inside a 6-wire connector, but it needs to be inspected and fixed BEFORE it goes bad and creates a worse problem. I've got a couple of photos of the last bad connector I found. I'll put it online soon.

    The 2006 & 2007 Caponords that I have inspected have not had these contaminated-wire issues.


    Catfish ...
    Ha, this is what I did with mine after I found my crappy wiring issue. I pulled them down, cleaned them and soldered them. I only have 8k on the bike now, let's see how they hold up.
    02 Caponord, 06 Speed Triple,03 VFR, 03 K1200RS, 07 k1200GT

  10. #10
    apriliaforum expert catfish's Avatar
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    Here is the last connector I found & fixed. Its for the fuel tank (fuel pump, fuel-level sensor). Notice the bright shiny copper connector pin, but the wire inside the crimp is BLACK!!!

    Now notice the blue arrow pointing towards the BURNT spots on the inside of the connector housing next to where the arcing & sparking was occurring; black wires to copper pin.

    I soldered the wire-in-the-crimp and it works fine now. Sorry I forgot to get a photo after the repair.

    Catfish ...
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  11. #11
    apriliaforum expert Matt fe2o3's Avatar
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    Great Thread

    Hey CF, thanks for input, great thread all the same, BTW you and I need to make a play-date after I get my 06 Capo broken in. After reading posts and looking at your posts I suspect you are the guy Kregg in Livermore (where I just bough my NIB 06) was on about regarding re-mapping and such. Speaks very highly of you (I think its you). At the 350 mile point and raining as you know. What is a good mileage point time for the post-break-in remap?

  12. #12
    apriliaforum expert GH_services's Avatar
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    the cause of the wires turning black is actually moisture ingress which oxidises the copper alloy wires.

    i am also a scuba instructor and use a rebreather, the biggest issues we deal with is the dreaded black wires to the oxygen fuel cells - the wires are exposed to the condensation that builds up inside the unit caused by the divers warm breath and it gets into the wire & travels up it via capillary action, turning it black, brittle and high resistance as it goes

  13. #13
    apriliaforum Junkie vilaishima's Avatar
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    I've actually checked most of my connectors and they are all shiny and look absolutely perfect. Mine is an '03/'04 model so perhaps the issue was more with very early models?
    2004 Oyster Gray Caponord
    Kappa High Screen
    Aprilia Crashbars
    Aprilia Handguards
    Aprilia Centrestand
    Polisport High-mount front fender
    HPR Concepts LED driving lights
    Radiator + oil cooler guards
    Heidenau K60 + Mitas E-07
    Ariete angled valves
    Bags Connection Daypack II
    Mods: Gutted Pipes, af1 braided fuel line + connectors, charging mod, fork spacers.

  14. #14
    apriliaforum expert BigSteve's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by the_toe_cutter View Post
    Excellent stuff, stickyifcation beckons.
    Really dig the hi temp insulation wrap!
    To add, i was advised by either BigSteve or Grumpy to route these wires all the way to the rec reg, seemed like good advice. I see you also used 'a puller' to enable you have the same routing when pulling it back.
    I still havn't got around to removing the engine brown connector yet, but I do inspect it everytime the tank is off, and it still looks ok.

    After seeing this excellent job that Stanley has done, has motivated me to look at this area soon and probably re-route a new cable up on the left hand side of the bike to get it away from any fuel lines.
    (2003 Infinity Blue Capo) - Gone but not forgotten..
    (1990 Kawasaki ZZ-R 1100C1) Remus Innovation S/S Full System, Double Bubble Screen, ZXR750 full lift Carbtops & RenTec rack.
    (1997 Kawasaki KLR 650 C3) In Kwacker Green.
    (2016 KTM 1290 SAT) In White .

  15. #15
    apriliaforum expert Stanleybobly's Avatar
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    noticed the fuel tank connector. Still in a reasonable good state for this year....
    I will chop down that bastard too in the future, and use a watersealed one.

    p.s. Saw a CBR600RR modelyear 2010 stripped down to make a trackbike.
    One thing I noticed: probably 95% of it's connectors (especially very important ones) were watersealed.

    sold: "01 Caponord |Flame Red|, Modlist done: Honda CBR600 RR Mosfet (FH008) Rectifier Mod, Brown Connector Mod
    now: "04 Caponord |Rally Raid| FH016 Mosfet R/R | GPR Titanium Exhaust|
    01 Futura [infinity blue]
    Caponord Stanleybobly style loomed MOSFET Rectifiers & Fuelline Kit FS

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