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Thread: Rear brake - RSV4 rearsets on RSV1000R complete with pics

  1. #1
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    Rear brake - RSV4 rearsets on RSV1000R complete with pics

    Hi,

    Thought Iíd start a new thread after having done the brake conversion on my RSV1000R (2006). Hereís mini_meís thread that started me off down this road http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/s...d.php?t=210844

    After having a chat with mini_me, I started looking for some RSV4 rear sets and master cylinder. Found some basically new rearsets at AF1 (left and right) which were way less than normal price. Once they were on the way down under I started looking for the master cylinder. Tried some KTM wreckers, ebay etc but none really looked the goods, were missing various connectors etc and I wanted a neat looking setup so wasnít going to use my existing MC. I ended up going for a new OEM unit from BikeBiz in Sydney. While it was a bit more expensive, I had some confidence in the unit and it also came with all the gear to just hook it up and go. As mini_me has said, you can use the original MC if you want.

    Hereís where I started I suppose with all the stock stuff in place:

    Note the mark on the fairing in the above shot, as you will need to trim this for the lever. There would be a couple of different ways of cutting it but I opted for a straighter line and this was the original plan. Youíll see it got changed slightly by the time I was finished.

    The RSV4 rearset does bolt straight on and you can see in this shot that the shaft on the lever ends up in the same position as the original (the photo makes it look like they donít, but they line up perfectly):

    The exhaust hanger is still on in this pic but should be removed as itís not required.

    Fairing and 1/2 the rearset off


    Brake pedal off and plunger out of original MC ( I had someone else connect and bleed the actual line for me as I would just screw it up for sure)


    Had to buy a couple of shorter bolts once the original lever had been removed.


    Exhaust hanger removed from new rearset. You can see the tidied-up cut in later pics.


    The hole where the hanger (for the fairing) connects to the rearset is not threaded, so I had to tap it (itís an M6 thread).


    Newly threaded hole


    The OEM hanger and bolt now get in the way of the connection of the pedal and MC plunger. The hanger is also a little short for some reason Ė like the hole in the rearset is in a slightly different place.


    A bolt with a smaller head is OK at this stage but still gets in the way once you connect the MC plunger.


    So a new hanger needed to be made (prototype shown) and together with a smaller headed bolts is clear of the MC plunger. The return spring is a Honda spring.



    Basically from this point, it all gets put together and the original brake light switch screwed in (you can see where I've cut off the rear exhaust hanger)


    As I mentioned above, I took it to my normal mechanic for him to connect and bleed the line as the bike was due for a service and Iíd probably stuff it up anyway. Hereís the finished product (watermarks on the swingarm because it was pi$$ing down on the way home yesterday):

    The brake line has been shortened to keep it tidy, and you can see the final line I took to trim the fairing. You could get away with removing less than this but I liked the straighter lines.

    And the matching left side


    So, OEM RSV4 rearsets with an OEM RSV4 MC do fit this shape RSV1000R (mines an 06). The whole thing does clear the swingarm by a few mm but I did put in a couple of washers to give me a bit more room (unnecessarily pedantic really). Here's a shot from the top down showing the gap


    So, the million dollar question is Ė whatís it like.

    Well, Iíve only had a short ride on it going home yesterday (about 15 mins) in the rain but it works - although it does feel different to my last one (which was starting to get softer after a bleed a few months ago). Iíd have to say that it feels more modulated. It probably needs a bit of tweaking on the plunger length and the position of the pedal shaft (ie what you press on with your foot) but it feels good nonetheless.

    Now for the long term testÖ

    Adam
    2006 RSV 1000R

  2. #2
    apriliaforum expert mini_me's Avatar
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    Nice work m8!

    Did you also have to cut into the fairing a bit to accomodate the brakepedal (when pressed down hard)?
    'Before you criticise someone, you should walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you criticise them, you are a mile away from them and you have their shoes.'


  3. #3
    apriliaforum expert TuonoAB's Avatar
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    Very Nice work! I was going to buy some RSV4 rearsets for my RSVR as I believed they would fit! I didn't end up doing so but great to see that it can be done. I ordered my bike from AF1 racing and I have had a stiff rear pedal for all 19k km of ownership (luckily).
    2008 Aprilia RSVR Bol D' Or Rep (Street)
    2010 KTM 450 EXC (Dirt)
    2007 KTM 640 Adventure (Cross Country Bomber)
    2008 Husaberg fe 450 (Project..)
    2008 Ski-Doo 800 (Rotax!) 154" (Winter)
    2007 Aprilia Tuono (Gone)
    2000 Kawasaki ZR-7 (Gone)

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by mini_me View Post
    Nice work m8!

    Did you also have to cut into the fairing a bit to accomodate the brakepedal (when pressed down hard)?
    Yep,

    you can see the final shape of the fairing in the last photo of the right side. You also have to make sure the lateral position of the fairing is correct (ie in a motion perpendicular to the length of the bike) to ensure the lever doesn't touch.
    2006 RSV 1000R

  5. #5
    apriliaforum Junkie Erwin8r's Avatar
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    Nice work! Your mechanic?!?! With that sort of clean fabbing expertise?

    Looks good!
    2004 RSVR Factory Black Sebimoto Race Bodywork, TIG Titanium Exhaust (Black Powder Coated Cans), Sato Rear Sets, Gilles Variobars, Pazzo Levers, CRG Mirror, Puig Double Bubble

    09 KTM SuperDuke 990R bone stock, but not for long...

  6. #6
    apriliaforum prov-nov
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    Had to buy a couple of shorter bolts once the original lever had been removed.
    What size are those bolts which you replaced when taking off the OEM brake lever?

  7. #7
    apriliaforum Junkie shadowblaster's Avatar
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    Nearly finished my RSV4 rear brake, only difference so far is mine needed a spacer behind the hanger to clear the swinging arm. I even gave myself a £100 budget and came in just under, sourced the hanger and peg second hand, the master is from a KTM 525, (same part number as RSV4) and the only item new was the brake arm and spring, everything else is interchangeable from the RSV, nice work.
    Last edited by shadowblaster; 09-19-2010 at 12:39 PM.
    Since owning a RSV I suffer with OCD
    2004 Factory
    V-trec short levers
    Uprated Clutch Slave
    R&G crash bungs
    K&N
    43/16 gearing
    RK Gold chain
    Map II
    Titanium Akropovic EVO's
    Pirelli diablo BSB super corsa's
    RSV4 rear brake conversion
    post 07 oil filter upgrade
    Modified air box & oil breather.
    Dynojet PC III
    Fully re mapped

    2001 R Factory Track bike
    Too many mods to list here

  8. #8
    apriliaforum newb
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    Quote Originally Posted by groul View Post
    What size are those bolts which you replaced when taking off the OEM brake lever?
    groul - you'll need 1 x M6 (40mm partial thread) and 1 x M8 (45mm partial thread)

    Quote Originally Posted by shadowblaster View Post
    Nearly finished my RSV4 rear brake,
    shadowblaster - any pics?

    Adam.
    2006 RSV 1000R

  9. #9
    apriliaforum Junkie shadowblaster's Avatar
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    More to follow
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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    Since owning a RSV I suffer with OCD
    2004 Factory
    V-trec short levers
    Uprated Clutch Slave
    R&G crash bungs
    K&N
    43/16 gearing
    RK Gold chain
    Map II
    Titanium Akropovic EVO's
    Pirelli diablo BSB super corsa's
    RSV4 rear brake conversion
    post 07 oil filter upgrade
    Modified air box & oil breather.
    Dynojet PC III
    Fully re mapped

    2001 R Factory Track bike
    Too many mods to list here

  10. #10
    apriliaforum expert mini_me's Avatar
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    You forgot to mount the heelplate?
    'Before you criticise someone, you should walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you criticise them, you are a mile away from them and you have their shoes.'


  11. #11
    apriliaforum Junkie shadowblaster's Avatar
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    Well if you really are paying attention, you will notice I have also not replaced the fairing or rear wheel, this was taken with work in progress. I have found that the fairing mount on mine was fine and didn't need replacing. I just reduced the thickness around the hanger and replaced the bolt with a round head allen head, this is needed to stop the master fork lever snagging. I will post more pics when back together. I probably still won't have the heel plate, as I am trying to source a set of carbon ones.
    Since owning a RSV I suffer with OCD
    2004 Factory
    V-trec short levers
    Uprated Clutch Slave
    R&G crash bungs
    K&N
    43/16 gearing
    RK Gold chain
    Map II
    Titanium Akropovic EVO's
    Pirelli diablo BSB super corsa's
    RSV4 rear brake conversion
    post 07 oil filter upgrade
    Modified air box & oil breather.
    Dynojet PC III
    Fully re mapped

    2001 R Factory Track bike
    Too many mods to list here

  12. #12
    apriliaforum Junkie shadowblaster's Avatar
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    Nearly finished, not truly tested yet but short ride and all I can say is do it.
    I will be treating it to a set of carbon heel plates, and I think the fairing trimming chosen by Ozads is the way to go.
    Unfortunately my funds dried up temporary after my new rear diablo rosso tyre got a puncture.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	P1030441.jpg 
Views:	734 
Size:	285.9 KB 
ID:	147441  

    Since owning a RSV I suffer with OCD
    2004 Factory
    V-trec short levers
    Uprated Clutch Slave
    R&G crash bungs
    K&N
    43/16 gearing
    RK Gold chain
    Map II
    Titanium Akropovic EVO's
    Pirelli diablo BSB super corsa's
    RSV4 rear brake conversion
    post 07 oil filter upgrade
    Modified air box & oil breather.
    Dynojet PC III
    Fully re mapped

    2001 R Factory Track bike
    Too many mods to list here

  13. #13
    apriliaforum newb
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    Just an update.

    I decided that my new brake was working too far down for my liking (ie I had to push the pedal down too much) and figured that I could adjust it by way of the MC shaft. I knew not to wind it in too far so only wound it in 2 full turns. This seemed to make a difference and my next ride was a couple of days later where I was going to catch up with the guys on the Putty Rd.

    Sat came and I set off (the Putty is about an hour from my house and has a nice 20km section of twisties). I got about 4 mins down the road and came to a set of traffic lights where the bike decided it knew how to stop by itself! I was just able to get to the other side of the intersection with the rear brake substantially locked.

    Figuring my assessment of 2 full turns on the MC shaft was now somewhat excessive, I got out the toolkit to loosen the locknut and back the shaft off, only to find that a standard RSVR toolkit contains a 14mm, 12mm and 11mm open-ended spanner and what I really needed was a 10. After knocking on 3 houses, I found a guy with a 10mm, backed the MC shaft off and rode down the road to buy my RSV its own 10mm.

    Met up with the others and had a great day riding with a rear brake that worked well and had no probs.

    Rode the bike to work during the week after and coming home noticed that the bike was feeling sluggish and the brake pedal was rock hard under my foot. Got to within 1km of my house and, once again, my bike decided it knew how to stop with no input from me. This time, while I was able to unlock the 10mm locknut, I wasn't able to rotate the MC shaft at all. Had to sit on the side of the road for a while letting the bike cool down before I could coax it home.

    (I think I said right at the top of this thread something about stuffing things up!)

    So the bike's been back in to the shop to have them visually set the position of the shaft so that it clears the return valve and a re-bleed. The brake pedal is now working well and the pedal works high up in the travel as expected in the first place. Only time will tell if I've learnt how not to mess with things - but I doubt it! The ride home this time was even better with a rear brake that works in the right spot - I found myself not actually using the front brake because the rear was so good. Kind of felt like this

    Here are some pics of it all together and also just a note to remember to position the angled brake line connector (ie the gold one that connects the line to the MC) so that it isn't likely to touch the swingarm.

    Here's the finished product:


    Make sure this is rotated out of the way:


    Stay tuned and I'll post some further feedback after more time on the bike.
    2006 RSV 1000R

  14. #14
    apriliaforum expert potere's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TuonoAB View Post
    Very Nice work! I was going to buy some RSV4 rearsets for my RSVR as I believed they would fit! I didn't end up doing so but great to see that it can be done. I ordered my bike from AF1 racing and I have had a stiff rear pedal for all 19k km of ownership (luckily).
    That's cuz it's never above 20 degrees there, Dan!! No heat gets to the MC from your engine!
    potere - italian for power
    have M1 permit, will travel

  15. #15
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    So what I gather is this works, just requires a new RSV4/KTM MC and holes drilled for the fairing stays. You also had to trim the fairing for lever movement?

    You mentioned spaces so the swingarm was not an issue. Where was the spaces? On the actual frame mounting location or the MC?
    a long lost soul -- who will never be a legend.

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