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Thread: Honda CBR600RR Mosfet Rectifier Mod

  1. #16
    apriliaforum expert Stanleybobly's Avatar
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    Lightbulb

    *update*
    Voltage @ 4000 rpm



    Healthy Juice ?

  2. #17
    apriliaforum expert deefred's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stanleybobly View Post
    Yes man...............
    No Problemo Amico
    How can you say that it is no problems for the R/R to handle 470 W instead of the 350 W?
    2001 RST Futura in stream Silver.
    Mods: Modified Öhlins fork from mille R, EBC brake discs, HEL front brakelines, Carbon RS 250 front fender, Wiring mod for charging. Engine related:05 map, Iridium plugs, tuneboy, derestriced intake, old mille airboot, staintunes exhaust. Lambda bung hardbrazed in the "breadbox". Öhlins mille R rear shock with 110N/mm spring and the integrated hydraulic preload adjuster. LED Voltmeter installed inside the dash for monitoring charging. Duc 999 radial m/c for brake and clutch. EBC 320mm brake discs
    NWS hugger. Equipment: Famsa tankbag,
    CBR 600 -07 MOSFET R&R FH008EE providing stable 14.4 - 14.5 V (with my wiring mod). Daytona heated grips with mccoi pwm controller and automatic chain oiler

  3. #18
    apriliaforum Junkie
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    Looking on the Shindengen site I could not find a spec. sheet for the FH008EE VR/Rectifier. According to the OP, Stanleybobly, the module is a MOSFET based unit capable of handling 35 amps. The FH012, a 50A unit in the same series is rated at 14.5V out. Stanleybobly's photos seem to show the regulator in that range. Ohms law states that W=VA so take 14.5V (the rated output) times 35 amps (the rated max load) and you get 507.5 watts. So if the regulator IS a 35 amp unit then at peak efficiency it should be able to deliver all 470 watts the generator is supposed to put out. On paper the FH008EE seems to be a good match for the bike.

    http://www.shindengen.com/resources/...012%20Data.pdf

    Keep in mind that as the generator heats up its output will drop and as the VR heats up it's output will drop as well. Take a look at the output curve of the FH012 as it heats up. Also notice that the 50amp rating is at the max voltage (14.9V). Again, the FH008EE seems like it is a good match for the Capo but I doubt we will see a full 470 watts under normal operating conditions.

    Adam

  4. #19
    apriliaforum Junkie Wynand K's Avatar
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    Quite a difference with the fan. Maybe its worth looking for an alternative mounting position for the rec/reg. Don't think it gets much airflow where it is in any case.
    Wynand K
    2002 Aprilia Capo ETV - (Silver Dream Machine). H&B Panniers. Kappa Top Box. Aprilia Crash Bars. K&N Air Filter. Gutted Pipes, Main Stand, Hyperpro springs, and Ricor widgets, "Pooratech" gear lever & handle bar brace. Kaoko cruise control.

    Originaly from South Africa. Now "Serving time" in Angola

  5. #20
    apriliaforum expert Stanleybobly's Avatar
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    keep in mind that measured temperature is with stillstanding position. if you
    measure it while riding the airflow of the bike, will be the same effect as with an Fan

  6. #21
    apriliaforum expert Stanleybobly's Avatar
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    Recently talked with my mechanic about this issue.
    He told me after years the Rectifier burns the inner core out due the excessive heat and the performance as it once rated at the factory is gone.
    Mosfet RR is one step of solving the heat problem.

    For bikes with injection (Capo, etc...) around 14.00 Volt is a good current and 14,5 Volt is the max. Beneath the 13.5 Volt is gonna kill your battery.

    He even showed me while he was replacing the Rectifier of an 25 years old cafe-racer bike, which burned a small crack in the silicon section at the backside of it. that thing was juicing the bike with 17 Volts

  7. #22
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    Question Stock part number question

    do you know what the bottom 2 numbers are on the part number?

    yours is 1.0 mine is 2.4






    I'm new to this bike, although am currently doing some R & R on it..

    http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/s...d.php?t=209633

    my bike only has 9k on it but want to be ahead of the game on any issues..

  8. #23
    apriliaforum expert Stanleybobly's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by markwoodlief View Post
    do you know what the bottom 2 numbers are on the part number?

    yours is 1.0 mine is 2.4
    I think that's the revision number at this model, mines is an 1,0 version (probably the first), Your Rectifier is an later (year) model of the same part number rolled out of the factory at Shindengen Japan.

    It's the same

    Quote Originally Posted by moto-abruzzo View Post

    Finally, all the bits'n bobs have arrived ready for the install.

    Let the fun begin ......

    Attachment 142392
    Good luck with your mod, It's fun to see how the time flies, when you're busy with it.
    Do you have the special Crimper for making the connections?. I didn't have, buying was no alternative (I would use it once or twice), because it is soooo expensive. Borrowed it from a friend of mine. It was an Professional Crimper. Hence to say it did a professional looking job to me.


    Last edited by Stanleybobly; 07-23-2010 at 04:20 AM.

    sold: "01 Caponord |Flame Red|, Modlist done: Honda CBR600 RR Mosfet (FH008) Rectifier Mod, Brown Connector Mod
    now: "04 Caponord |Rally Raid| FH016 Mosfet R/R | GPR Titanium Exhaust|
    01 Futura [infinity blue]
    Caponord Stanleybobly style loomed MOSFET Rectifiers & Fuelline Kit FS

  9. #24
    apriliaforum newb
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    I'm seriously considering the same mod as Stanleybobly.

    However, I am a little confused.

    The FH008EE has only one +ve lead. The OEM Regulator had two separate positive ones and there are two red/black wires in the existing connector from the Capo. Is it ok just to join these two red/black wires together to the positive of the FH008EE Regulator or will this cause issues?
    (The same applies for the negative side FH008EE has one negative, Capo wiring plug has two(red/blue)).

    I have looked at the wiring diagram and they do seem to connect. So if they can be connected, why are they separate in the first place?

    I don't want to see her go up in smoke!

    Thank you all for an excellent Forum, full of wise and knowlegeable people.

  10. #25
    apriliaforum expert Stanleybobly's Avatar
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    Yes, indeed Aprilia has 2 Positive wiring and 2 Negative wiring, Both are way too skinny, Especially the Negatives ones. I wrapped them both into 1 wiring (1 Plus & 1 Minus). And indeed they connect to each other. Weird, why they used that at the factory design table (probably the Rectifier was the first with that design and had to adapt to it )

    It is better to connect it with an 12 Gauge wires directly to the battery (Positive Wire with an 30 A Fuse). The wiring of the FH008EE is much thicker !.

    Recently this supplier sells the FH008/Generic Complete Kits. (When I ordered 2 months ago, it wasn't available.)

    I''ll gonna do that in the winter. Probably I'm gonna get the full 14,5 V with it , if I change the wiring with thicker 12 gauges

    Have a look at this topic. That guy inspired me, to do the mod on the Capo .

    By the way, I am the living proof that it still runs & moves with it.
    Last edited by Stanleybobly; 07-25-2010 at 10:09 AM.

    sold: "01 Caponord |Flame Red|, Modlist done: Honda CBR600 RR Mosfet (FH008) Rectifier Mod, Brown Connector Mod
    now: "04 Caponord |Rally Raid| FH016 Mosfet R/R | GPR Titanium Exhaust|
    01 Futura [infinity blue]
    Caponord Stanleybobly style loomed MOSFET Rectifiers & Fuelline Kit FS

  11. #26
    apriliaforum Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stanleybobly View Post
    Yes, indeed Aprilia has 2 Positive wiring and 2 Negative wiring, Both are way too skinny, Especially the Negatives ones. I wrapped them both into 1 wiring (1 Plus & 1 Minus). And indeed they connect to each other. Weird, why they used that at the factory design table (probably the Rectifier was the first with that design and had to adapt to it )

    It is better to connect it with an 12 Gauge wires directly to the battery (Positive Wire with an 30 A Fuse). The wiring of the FH008EE is much thicker !.

    Recently this supplier sells the FH008/Generic Complete Kits. (When I ordered 2 months ago, it wasn't available.)

    I''ll gonna do that in the winter. Probably I'm gonna get the full 14,5 V with it , if I change the wiring with thicker 12 gauges

    Have a look at this topic. That guy inspired me, to do the mod on the Capo .

    By the way, I am the living proof that it still runs & moves with it.
    great pics.. thanks tons.. I'll be doing this mod here soon and these pics clears it up for me

  12. #27
    apriliaforum newb
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    Thank you, much appreciated.

  13. #28
    apriliaforum prov-nov
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    When you weld the wires to the new connections does the battery and ECU need to be disconnect???

  14. #29
    apriliaforum expert Stu_O's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by schoolbusbob View Post
    When you weld the wires to the new connections does the battery and ECU need to be disconnect???
    Always disconnect the battery negative (earth) cable before doing any electrical repairs on the bike.

    Stu

  15. #30
    apriliaforum newb
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    Hi,

    After breaking down with rectifier failure (a 2 year old AF1 one) I decided to follow Stanleybobly and upgrade.

    I purchased a very low milage 2nd hand Mosfet FH008EE, Delphi Metripack 280 3 pin male and female plugs for yellow Stator wires, a Delphi Metripack 280 single pin male and female plug for the rectifier earth lead and a Metripack 630 PTS 2 pin female plug and covering cap for the fuse on the rectifier positive side.

    After a few hours crimping, soldering, heat shrinking etc, I have fitted the new Rectifier in its original place but now direct to the battery. The original harness wires have been safely blanked off.

    To minimise connections I made a small aluminium bracket so that I could position the fuse close to the rectifier. This meant the positive wire from the R/R went straight into the connector without needing extending. I then ran a wire from the other terminal of the new fuse to the battery positive, connecting with a ring terminal (crimped, soldered and adhesive heat shrink). The negative from the R/R had to be extended using the 1 pole metripack 280 connector and went to the negative battery terminal.
    Sorry I didn't take any pictures during the process, too busy remembering to put the heatshrink on before crimping the terminals!!
    Hopefully, here is some of it finished
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    Now the moment of truth, at Idle with lights on
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    at 4000rpm with lights on
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    Overall pleased with the results, just hope it all holds up.
    Thanks to Stanleybobly and D'Ecosse for their excellent write ups.
    Last edited by CapoMad; 08-06-2010 at 11:50 AM.

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