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Thread: Tech Tips thread

  1. #16
    apriliaforum Junkie caponord's Avatar
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    I use this cable on Tune ECU with cat map.
    I LIVE TODAY AND TOMORROW I DONT KNOW !!!!
    DON'T FOLLOW THE PATH, BUT LEAVE A TRAIL!!!!

    If you going to be up my arse, at least pull my hair!!!

    Even you can have a body like mine, all you have to do, is neglect it !!!!!

  2. #17
    apriliaforum expert catfish's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Caporoberto View Post
    Is this the cable needed of Tuneboy / catfish work of arts?
    This OBD2/USB cable works with the FREE TuneECU software. It does NOT work with the TuneBoy software.

    Catfish ...

  3. #18
    apriliaforum expert Stanleybobly's Avatar
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    Last edited by Stanleybobly; 04-28-2011 at 03:12 PM.

    sold: "01 Caponord |Flame Red|, Modlist done: Honda CBR600 RR Mosfet (FH008) Rectifier Mod, Brown Connector Mod
    now: "04 Caponord |Rally Raid| FH016 Mosfet R/R | GPR Titanium Exhaust|
    01 Futura [infinity blue]
    Caponord Stanleybobly style loomed MOSFET Rectifiers & Fuelline Kit FS

  4. #19
    apriliaforum expert Capoandrew's Avatar
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    Brakes and your life

    Lately I have seen quite a few posts about issues with brakes and I wanted to offer some years of experience concerning what to look out for.

    I have spent some years competing in endurance racing and this sort of motorcycle racing is notorious for being extremely hard on brakes. High temperatures and high pad wear can give you a good insight to what makes for efficient braking.

    Going to the basics, a brake system is nothing more than a hydraulic pump that squeezes pads onto a metal disk. The disk and pad cause friction and the bike stops. (It is a bit more complicated than that, but that's at least the idea).

    There are six main components and I will discuss each in turn.

    Master Cylinder (MC)


    This relatively simple device is a just pump that pushes fluid into the eventual calliper. There are many varieties of master cylinders, but really they all do the same thing. The main two components of the MC are the piston and the cylinder itself. For the MC to operate correctly, it must not allow brake fluid to pass by the piston seals. If this happened insufficient compression occurs and you donít get enough pressure (or what feels like resistance in the brake lever) to the callipers.

    Therefore (And you will get sick of me saying this after a while) the MC must be kept clean and with clean fluid. The bore of the cylinder must not have any nicks or abrasions that will either damage the piston seals or allow brake fluid to pass by the seals. If the MC does become scored from use, it can often be honed or cleaned with wet and dry sand paper. Or, better still, get a professional to clean it or replace it.

    Brake Lines

    These are the hoses that connect the MC and the Callipers. Again nothing very complicated but keep an eye out for abrasion, kinks and cuts. If you see any of these, replace them as you canít repair them, so donít even try.


    Brake Fluid

    Brake fluid is the stuff that transfers your hand pressure to the brake pads. Sounds simple, but this fluid is like the blood in your veins, without it youíre dead.

    Catfish mentioned in a recent post that fluid must be cleaned out regularly. He is quite correct, but this needs to be expanded. The whole system from master cylinder to calliper needs to be spotless. If in doubt, clean it again.

    I often read some laughable remarks about upgrading fluid, using a different fluid and generally what is the best fluid to use. Well the answer to all of this is really easy, you can use DOT 4, DOT 5 or DOT 5.1, just make sure itís clean and fresh. NEVER ever use brake fluid that has been sitting opened up in your garage for a year or two, itís of no use. Most likely it will be contaminated with microscopic water droplets or dust or worse.

    There are many discussions as to which fluid to use. My personal favourite is Motul DOT4. Itís high temperature and resists moisture attraction and good enough for day to day use. Avoid racing brake fluids as they designed for high temps and aren't the best for low temperature use

    Here is an excellent article all about brake fluid:
    http://www.motorcycleproject.com/mot...rakefluid.html

    My last word on brake fluid is keep it clean and replace it regularly. I had the privilege some years ago to attend one of the Paris-Dakar races and I noted that every rider after each stage replaced their brake fluid. (EVERY racer!) This says a lot about how clean and pristine fluid should be kept.

    Brake Callipers


    Often misunderstood, the calliper has generally one or two pistons (sometimes up to six pistons) that apply hydraulic pressure to the brake pad via the backing plate.

    One issue with BCís is that the brake pads often leave a dusty residue that sticks to the calliper pistons. This rotten stuff causes 90% of all issues with brakes. It gets sucked into the brake lines, it cause pistons to stick and seals to score. Keeping your BC clean avoids this. My wife hates me for this, but I am regularly cleaning my bike. What she doesnít know is I spent a lot of that time making sure my brakes are clean.
    Simply wipe them with an old rag and never use WD40 on the callipers. WD40 is not compatible with brake calliper seals and is a sure way to stuff them up.

    If you want to really clean callipers properly, use any proprietary spray brake cleaner. This will do the cleaning and leave no residue.

    One special note, the slide pins in the BCís should be bright clean. If they are sticking, then try polishing them up first. I sometimes hear people using silicon grease and the like on slide pins, but this is only hiding the issue. A properly clean and bright slider will not bind.

    Pads

    Iím not going to go into too much detail here because everyone seems to have their own favourite brake pad. For me, I use either the standard pad or the newer ceramic pads. Both have good feel, and last the expected time. Metal pads can be really harsh on your disk rotors, so if you have money to burn, then they are fine.

    I have my personal favourite pads, but this is a subjective discussion. It may take a while before you find what suits you, but just keep a set of standard pads on hand to change back to if you donít like your new ďracer padsĒ.

    Disk Rotors.

    Again, I hear countless arguments as to what is the best. Unless you are racing then the standard rotors will do the trick. The only rule is they need to be flat and (you guessed it) clean. The contact surface should also be as flat as possible. If there are too many ruts and hollows, then the rotor should be replaced.

    Warped disks are dangerous and should be replaced. (Not repaired!!)
    To check for warped disks, simply hold a pencil against a fork with the tip of the pencil on the rotor. (Of cause the wheel must be free to rotate, so use a stand or something similar) Keeping an eye on the tip of the pencil, turn the wheel slowly. If it feels tight or there is a gap appearing every now and then, then most likely the disk is warped.

    Some people change to wave disks and the like, but these actually donít improve braking as such, they allow for braking gases to clear more easily. I have found over the years that often cheaper replacement rotors donít last as long as the original rotors. I have found that Brembo rotors last very well if maintained and are not abused. My only recommendation on up grading is if you have a Brembo original, then upgrade with a Brembo. (They really do make some of the best brakes available)

    There can be issues with floating rotors, but this is covered in other articles.

    Well I hope this helps. Brakes are really simple and do an amazing job if maintained. If you have specific questions, then there is more than enough info from sites such as EBC, RDA and the like.
    My only last comment is, keep your brakes (from end to end) clean.
    Last edited by Capoandrew; 05-05-2013 at 06:19 AM.


    Mods (so far): Aprilia Rally Raid bars, bar clamp, seat, rear shock absorber, suspension link, front guard, headlight stone guard and lower chain guard. Replica RR sump guard. Leo Vince exhaust, Catfish Mapping. Mk2 Top fairing, painted to match. MG hand guards. Aprilia Dorso indicators. Honda CBR600 Reg. Autocom Intercom. Aux fuse block. H&B side racks. Trax Evo panniers. Tourfella top box Palmer aux bracket. BMW GPS quick release mount. Cyclops LED spot lights. Anakee 2 Tyres. And probably something else I can't think of right now!

    http://capoandrew.blogspot.com

  5. #20
    apriliaforum Junkie caponord's Avatar
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    Andrew,
    you are a legend, I really enjoyed this!
    Thank you !!!!
    Regards,
    Alby
    I LIVE TODAY AND TOMORROW I DONT KNOW !!!!
    DON'T FOLLOW THE PATH, BUT LEAVE A TRAIL!!!!

    If you going to be up my arse, at least pull my hair!!!

    Even you can have a body like mine, all you have to do, is neglect it !!!!!

  6. #21
    apriliaforum expert Precis's Avatar
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    More than you ever wanted to know about bearings:
    http://thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/bearing.htm
    Aut viam inveniam aut faciam

  7. #22
    apriliaforum expert catfish's Avatar
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    Aging Italian Wiring ...


  8. #23
    apriliaforum newb
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    Bar Riser option

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	2011-07-30_15-31-52_948.jpg 
Views:	366 
Size:	293.9 KB 
ID:	167649
    Parts Needed:
    1.Bar Spacers from Husqvarna TC/TE/SM 06-present p/n 8A00A6683
    2. 2 Grade 8/(12.2 metric) bolts, length as needed. 100mm works great if 2 spacers are used on bolt.
    Cost: 4 spacers = $20.00. 2 Bolts= $4.00 Total= $24.00
    Modification- (2 spacers per bolt) gives aprox. 1.25 inch rise.
    No relocation of wires or hoses required. (At full turn to right, clutch hose is a little tighter then I would like, but should be ok). 3 spacers per bolt would require re-routing or modification of clutch hose.

    These spacers are desigend and machined to be used with the rubber dampners that are used on the Aprilia and Husqvarna. They fit perfect. I have used this modification (3 spacers per bolt) on my HusqvarnaTC-450 and it has worked great!
    Last edited by Trim; 09-14-2011 at 09:41 PM. Reason: added part #

  9. #24
    apriliaforum expert Matt fe2o3's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trim View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	2011-07-30_15-31-52_948.jpg 
Views:	366 
Size:	293.9 KB 
ID:	167649
    Parts Needed:
    1.Bar Spacers from Husqvarna TC/TE/SM 06-present
    2. 2 Grade 8/(12.2 metric) bolts, length as needed. 100mm works great if 2 spacers are used on bolt.
    Cost: 4 spacers = $20.00. 2 Bolts= $4.00 Total= $24.00
    Modification- (2 spacers per bolt) gives aprox. 1.25 inch rise.
    No relocation of wires or hoses required. (At full turn to right, clutch hose is a little tighter then I would like, but should be ok). 3 spacers per bolt would require re-routing or modification of clutch hose.

    These spacers are desigend and machined to be used with the rubber dampners that are used on the Aprilia and Husqvarna. They fit perfect. I have used this modification (3 spacers per bolt) on my HusqvarnaTC-450 and it has worked great!
    Wow - thanks very much - I was on a ride today just thinking that the Capo bars could come up a little.

    I looked up the spacer part # is look to be p/n 8A00A6683.

    Great find.

  10. #25
    apriliaforum expert JohnG.'s Avatar
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    Andrew,
    I agree,organic brake pads will give you much longer rotor life,
    and stop just as well IMO.
    Problem is most shops try to sell you sintered Pads...
    I look for organics under
    BMW F650,Pegaso,for the fronts(Bendix MA174)
    & Ducati '03-749 & '03-999 (Bendix MA230)
    for the rears.
    Last edited by JohnG.; 08-04-2011 at 05:42 PM.
    JohnG.

    '02 Capo.

  11. #26
    apriliaforum expert JohnG.'s Avatar
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    Overfilled your oil?

    Been rushing and overfilled the oil
    Just grab a piece of 6mm clear plastic tube
    oil syphons out of the oil tank,easy as...
    JohnG.

    '02 Capo.

  12. #27
    apriliaforum expert Stanleybobly's Avatar
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    Last edited by Stanleybobly; 03-17-2013 at 03:33 PM.

    sold: "01 Caponord |Flame Red|, Modlist done: Honda CBR600 RR Mosfet (FH008) Rectifier Mod, Brown Connector Mod
    now: "04 Caponord |Rally Raid| FH016 Mosfet R/R | GPR Titanium Exhaust|
    01 Futura [infinity blue]
    Caponord Stanleybobly style loomed MOSFET Rectifiers & Fuelline Kit FS

  13. #28
    apriliaforum expert Stu_O's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by catfish View Post
    Not just the big high-current connectors. I've also repaired/bypassed wiring to the dash, to the fuel pump, AND the brake-light connectors. So far. Always the same black-wire corrosion in the crimp that can get high enough in resistance to not allow the required current to flow. This generates a LOT of heat at the corroded pin(s).
    You mean like this fried headlamp connector behind the main fairing?


  14. #29
    apriliaforum expert Precis's Avatar
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    Paint code

    Paint code for the early models in Infinity Blue:

    434 Land Rover Plymouth Blue.
    Aut viam inveniam aut faciam

  15. #30
    apriliaforum expert Stanleybobly's Avatar
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    sold: "01 Caponord |Flame Red|, Modlist done: Honda CBR600 RR Mosfet (FH008) Rectifier Mod, Brown Connector Mod
    now: "04 Caponord |Rally Raid| FH016 Mosfet R/R | GPR Titanium Exhaust|
    01 Futura [infinity blue]
    Caponord Stanleybobly style loomed MOSFET Rectifiers & Fuelline Kit FS

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