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Thread: Alternative Coils

  1. #211
    apriliaforum newb matisse's Avatar
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    Thanks TarMac and skvrnsk. I'll replace the vacuum lines and reconsider the coils. Would someone try to explain what the descriptions surging/hesitating actually refer to? Could it be the stepper? If replacing the vacuum lines doesn't fix the problem, what should I look at next (I could ask that to be done at the same time)

  2. #212
    apriliaforum prov-nov
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    99-07 SUZUKI HAYABUSA 1300 GSX 1300 R COILS
    Suzuki Hayabusa coil connector kit GSXR Coil Plug
    Dynatek 8mm Suppression Plug Wire Set DW-800

    Been running flawless for over a year. I also did the rectifier, going with a series version - SH775

  3. #213
    apriliaforum Member skvrnsk's Avatar
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    That's my recipe for a spare coil.
    NGK U5008 + M5x20 allen bolt (half of it is re-threaded to 4mm). Original NGK rubber casing has been cut short and cone-shaped.
    M5 allen bolt fits perfectly, like it belongs to NGK socket.
    ..
    Last edited by skvrnsk; 09-28-2018 at 11:29 PM.

  4. #214
    apriliaforum expert ravenranger's Avatar
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    Japanese COP conversion thread (LINK)
    2006 Caponord 1989 NX250
    IBA#22798 is now #580 AMA#601202

  5. #215
    apriliaforum expert northernkiwi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by matisse View Post
    Thanks TarMac and skvrnsk. I'll replace the vacuum lines and reconsider the coils. Would someone try to explain what the descriptions surging/hesitating actually refer to? Could it be the stepper? If replacing the vacuum lines doesn't fix the problem, what should I look at next (I could ask that to be done at the same time)
    hey matisse, did you get any further after the vac lines?, this sounds similar to my problem, as described in my idle problems post. it is not exactly idling, although it has stopped a couple of times. it hesitates from standing start, but also hesitating, coughing when slowing down at crossroads and roundabouts.
    Current:
    2004 capo - the grey one
    Oberon clutch slave, 4cm extra foam in riders seat, RR back shock , Hagon progressive front springs, 4 techauto coils, AF1 fuel line and metal connectors, both brown connectors replaced with direct wiring, kappa racks and Big Husky 46l cases, hepco becker junior top case,mandatory capo stickers, cbr honda mosfet rectifier. Grant of watford,s map.
    Previous:
    Honda CB 360
    Kawasaki Z1 900
    86 Yamaha xj 900
    knees in the breeze is my only disease

  6. #216
    apriliaforum newb matisse's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by northernkiwi View Post
    hey matisse, did you get any further after the vac lines?, this sounds similar to my problem, as described in my idle problems post. it is not exactly idling, although it has stopped a couple of times. it hesitates from standing start, but also hesitating, coughing when slowing down at crossroads and roundabouts.
    Hi Kiwi,
    and sorry for the late reply. I had the bike serviced last October and the mechanic said the vac hoses were ok, but the stepper motor had been hit and somehow repaired, so it might be causing something as well. I only rode the bike to garage last year (and it seemed fine), but now it's back on the road. When cold, the idle is a bit rough, although when warm, the revs are right. The bike runs poorly below 4000 rpm, sometimes popping a little with deceleration. I'll now replace the vac lines. CapoEVT had changed them in April and had the intention to post some pics, but I can't seem to find them. I haven't found the honda 5.5mm vac line at the local dealers' web pages, so I'll need to call (ordering from ebay seems overkill). Can I reuse the clamps or should I get new ones? Is the 5.5mm line all I need or also some other sizes?

    I didn't put any additives in the tank for the winter, but the bike doesn't run well even with new fuel.

  7. #217
    apriliaforum newb matisse's Avatar
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    I finally got around to replace the vacuum lines (all clear ones, others seemed (tm) ok). Luckily I had got some additional clamps as the original ones didn't fit around the honda hose when stretched over the nipples. I still have about 30 cm of hose left (bought just 1m). The airbox drain tube was rotten and the short clear tube at the front had a small crack. The sync hoses seemed fine. I also cleaned the stepper and the throttle butterflies + bores with some carburettor cleaner. The airbox had about one spoonful of oil on the bottom and the right side of the engine (outside) was quite oily. After standing for 2 weeks there was also some oil on the floor (haven't seen oil dripping before, although the engine has been dirty).

    Anyway, this didn't help. It doesn't stall, but pull is irregular, and there is often a small surge from when applying throttle. There was only a little variation with idle when cold, but it stabilized when warm. Since spring something else seems to have gone wrong as the bike starts to sound more and more like a tractor and mileage gets down. Any ideas what to try next? Coils? More hoses? (I don't have the sync tools or tunecu) The rubber intake valve also seems to have cracks. Could this be the culprit? I recall can am part were cheaper (and it really seems so) but I can't figure out how to ship to Finland from e.g. here (www.2wheelpros.com) could someone help? Thanks in advance!
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  8. #218
    apriliaforum expert calgaryjeff's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by matisse View Post
    The rubber intake valve also seems to have cracks. Could this be the culprit? I recall can am part were cheaper (and it really seems so) but I can't figure out how to ship to Finland from e.g. here (www.2wheelpros.com) could someone help? Thanks in advance!

    Black RTV silicone gasket maker. A good layer smeared all over the rubber boots will seal 'er up great.

    2003 CapoNord
    1985 Honda VF1000R (gone to a new home)
    IBA #23204

  9. #219
    apriliaforum newb matisse's Avatar
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    Thanks calgaryjeff for the tip! I did read about it in here but somehow didn't think about it To my surprise there is a can am supplier also in Finland, but I'm still waiting for confirmation if these parts are available. As it's taking days to reply, I may go by your advice. I think I can smell gasoline while sitting in traffic lights. Would that point to a vacuum leak, too rich injection, or maybe something else? Unnerving anyway although now I'm in peace with the fuel connects thanks to stanleybobly.

    I also took her to a mechanic, who said after a quick ride "these are like this, maybe a bit sluggish, just ride". That made me think, how aggressive should these be? I recall comments of wheelies with throttle, but I doubt mine would do it.

  10. #220
    apriliaforum newb matisse's Avatar
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    Some progress with some cost. Sorry for the long post.

    The local can-am reseller didn't have the rubber boots, but this german company shipped them in almost a week 35EUR/each + postage. It was possible to swap the boots without disconnecting the oetiker clamped hoses. Although the cracks in the boots looked bad on the outside, they didn't seem to go all the way through, thus I doubt I still hadn't found the issue.

    Therefore, back to the thread topic: coils. First I didn't see anything odd in Tuneecu, all coils gave similar numbers, but occasionally the third number dropped to 0.4 for a while.
    I think this is the frontmost coil, which appeared to be the only Sagem left on the bike (blue-green, black-red LT wire), others are JCI.

    Based on the detailed info on this site (BIG thanks to all!) I modified the NGK U5008 coils and bought Magnecor leads (thanks Kennibear for the tip). They might be overkill, but I figured they would guarantee about right impedance and lengths, which seemed hard otherwise. The HT leads on the bike all tested ok for resistance. The HT lead - coil connection took some thinking. I ended up taking Skrvnsk's route here (msg #213 above on this page). Brass M5x25 bolts (cheap) which were rethreaded for 12mm as M4 (35 EUR...). Those lock very well in the coil holes. The Magnecor lead boot fits the rubber in the coil perfectly (better than the coil directly) so I used them both. This made the combo a little long. I secured the setup with a zip tie (coil to its boot), and tied the lead-boot to the coil boot with string and wrapped it in self vulcanizing rubber tape. Apart from being a little long, I think it is very good. If you order Magnecor leads, ask them to be fitted with an angled boot as it will fit better on the bike.

    The plugs looked bad, although I'm not sure what it means. What would you say? I replaced them too. The piston heads also look very dirty, I wonder if that would give a clue to what's wrong?
    Anyway, after all this, the uneven pull was gone !! with modest gas and low revs (below 3 or 4k), the bike doesn't feel like it's about to stall at start, but it feels it's still lacking power and sometimes pops on deceleration. It still sounds like a tractor. I might be a little paranoid with the noises, but the gunk in the plugs/pistons, noises and the lack of power doesn't feel right.

    The map on the bike says it's 050429, LTFT at 4.7, although I couldn't figure out how to change it. Bike has LV cans (with baffles) and K&N filter. I was thinking of trying out Catfish's maps, but wanted the current issues to be sorted first.

    Would you have suggestions on what to try next?

    Thanks in advance!
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  11. #221
    apriliaforum expert Stu_O's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by matisse View Post
    Would you have suggestions on what to try next?
    A compression test. And a cylinder leak down test, if you're able. Just judging from what appears to be oil on the plug threads and piston crown, plus that whitish residue on the plug electrodes, your power issue may not be down to mapping or coils. Hope I'm wrong.

    Stu
    Last edited by Stu_O; 08-07-2019 at 06:20 PM.

  12. #222
    apriliaforum prov-nov MCR's Avatar
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    If you want solve the issue of Caponord or Futura Colis troubles, take a look on this post https://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/...=1#post4524895
    Up today are 10 years that they are running on several bikes withaout any problems
    Last edited by MCR; 08-08-2019 at 12:58 AM.

  13. #223
    apriliaforum newb matisse's Avatar
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    Thanks for the suggestions Stu and MCR. I don't have compressed air, so DIY would be compression test. It would hopefully rule out some nasty options - or point to them. If there's a leak, either leak down test or another bike. I don't have the tools, but they seem easy to get.

    For now I'm happy with the coils, but if they start acting up, I'll get back to MCR suggestion. All my HT leads and 3/4 of the coils were ok, so I already have lots of spares.

    Riding-wise this summer has been a disaster.

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