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  1. #16
    apriliaforum newb L84ad8's Avatar
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    lower front forks SXV 550
    i ride a lot on track an hav my front forks slid up the triple clamps as much as they will go.i feel the front would turn better if i could lower them even more. AF1 racing say u can shorten the forks internally, to lower the front. NO one in malasiya can help me.T hey all want 'how 2 pictures or diagrams step by step. Pls. help.

  2. #17
    apriliaforum expert Danneh's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by L84ad8 View Post
    lower front forks SXV 550
    i ride a lot on track an hav my front forks slid up the triple clamps as much as they will go.i feel the front would turn better if i could lower them even more. AF1 racing say u can shorten the forks internally, to lower the front. NO one in malasiya can help me.T hey all want 'how 2 pictures or diagrams step by step. Pls. help.
    it's not exactly a step by step but it's me doing the fork lowering thing. http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/s...d.php?t=138519

  3. #18
    Yellow Shirt
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    Is possible a "how to" for change piston and rings?

  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Danneh View Post
    it's not exactly a step by step but it's me doing the fork lowering thing. http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/s...d.php?t=138519
    Hi, been reading through the lowering topic. I feel that heating Springs for lowering weakens them. I feel cutting them would (iff possible) be wiser.
    Both methods increase spring rate however (stiffen up). Marginaly however depending on spring type and amount.

    MT

  5. #20
    Yellow Shirt
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    Tuneboy map for 09 sxv?

    Quote Originally Posted by Allen Noland View Post
    SXV 450
    14009 - mapping for Termignoni exhausts (6 seconds)
    14010 - mapping for Silmotor exhausts (6 seconds)
    14018 - latest update of the standard mapping
    14019 - latest update of the standard US mapping
    14020 - latest update of the standard Japan mapping
    14021 - latest update of the mapping for Silmotor exhausts
    14022 - MY 2007 Van Den Bosch mapping
    14023 - mapping for Akrapovic exhausts
    14024 - latest update of the standard Street Legal US mapping
    14025 - latest update of the Euro 3 MY 2008 standard mapping
    14027 - MY 2008 Van Den Bosch mapping
    14028 - Full Power mapping MY 2008 "double mapping"
    14032 - MY 2008 USA Full Power mapping
    14033 - latest standard mapping update with starter kit
    14035 - latest standard USA mapping update with starter kit
    14036 - mapping for Arrow exhausts with starter kit
    14037 - mapping for Silmoto exhausts with starter kit
    14038 - mapping for Akrapovic exhausts with starter kit

    RXV 450
    24004 - Mapping for Termignoni exhausts
    24005 - Mapping for Silmotor exhausts
    24009 - mapping for Termignoni exhausts (6 seconds)
    24010 - mapping for Silmotor exhausts (6 seconds)
    24013 - mapping for Akrapovic exhausts (6 seconds)
    24020 - latest update of the standard mapping
    24021 - latest update of the standard US mapping
    24022 - latest update of the standard Japan mapping
    24023 - latest update of the mapping for Akrapovic exhausts
    24026 - Mapping for Arrow exhausts
    24027 - latest update of the standard Street Legal US mapping
    24028 - latest update of the Euro 3 MY 2008 standard mapping
    24029 - MY 2008 Merriman mapping
    24032 - MY 2008 USA Full Power mapping
    24033 - standard mapping update with starter kit
    24034 - standard USA mapping update with starter kit
    24035 - mapping for Akrapovic exhausts with starter kit
    24036 - mapping for Arrow exhausts with starter kit

    RXV 450 MY2009
    24100 - Euro 3 standard mapping
    24101 - Full Power mapping for Arrow exhausts
    24102 - latest update of the standard mapping
    24103 - Full Power mapping for Arrow exhausts
    24104 - Full Power mapping for Arrow exhausts
    24105 - latest update of the Full Power mapping for Arrow exhausts

    SXV 550
    15008 - mapping for Termignoni exhausts (6 seconds)
    15009 - mapping for Silmotor exhausts (6 seconds)
    15017 - latest update of the standard mapping
    15018 - latest update of the standard US mapping
    15019 - latest update of the standard Japan mapping
    15020 - latest update of the mapping for Silmotor exhausts
    15021 - MY 2007 Van Den Bosch mapping
    15022 - mapping for Akrapovic exhausts
    15023 - latest update of the standard Street Legal US mapping
    15024 - latest update of the Euro 3 MY 2008 standard mapping
    15026 - Van Den Bosch MY 2008 map (assymetrical dual map)
    15027 - Full Power mapping MY 2008 "double mapping"
    15030 - MY 2008 USA Full Power mapping
    15031 - standard mapping update with starter kit
    15032 - standard USA mapping update with starter kit
    15033 - mapping for Arrow exhausts with starter kit
    15034 - mapping for Silmotor exhausts with starter kit
    15035 - mapping for Akrapovic exhausts with starter kit

    RXV 550
    25007 - mapping for Silmotor exhausts (6 seconds)
    25010 - mapping for Akrapovic exhausts (6 seconds)
    25016 - latest update of the standard mapping
    25017 - latest update of the standard US mapping
    25018 - latest update of the standard Japan mapping
    25019 - latest update of the mapping for Akrapovic exhausts
    25022 - Mapping for Arrow exhausts
    25023 - latest update of the standard Street Legal US mapping
    25024 - latest update of the Euro 3 MY 2008 standard mapping
    25028 - MY 2008 USA Full Power mapping
    25029 - standard mapping update with starter kit
    25030 - standard USA mapping update with starter kit
    25031 - mapping for Akrapovic exhausts with starter kit
    25032 - mapping for Arrow exhausts with starter kit

    RXV 550 MY '09
    25100 - Euro 3 standard mapping
    25101 - Full Power mapping for Arrow exhausts
    25102 - latest update of the standard mapping
    25103 - Full Power mapping for Arrow exhausts
    25104 - Full Power mapping for Arrow exhausts
    25105 - latest update of the Full Power mapping for Arrow exhausts

    MXV 450
    34102 - BIG BANG
    34105 - SCREAMER

    NOTES
    1) Maps that say "with starter kit" are for the '06-'07 model year bikes that have had the automatic air valve kit installed. They will not work on bikes without the starter kit.

    2) All "Standard US", "Street Legal US" and "Standard USA" maps are the restricted versions.

    3) RXV 450-550 MY '09 maps are only for bikes with the newer ECUG-2 control unit (ECU). '09 USA RXVs have the ECUC-1 control unit, and use the same maps as the previous model years.

    .
    I've just picked up a new 09 SVX 550 (U.S.), removed the throttle stop, exhaust restrictor cones and air box silencer, loaded tuneboy map 15017 and was pretty disapointed with the big flat spot from throttle closed to about 1/4 open. I haven't started tweaking the maps yet myself, as I am hoping that someone has already been down this path and has some suggestions.

    I guess the first question is can I get my hands on the maps in this thread?

    Thanks

    David

  6. #21
    just another Aprilia fanatic amauri's Avatar
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    Load map 15030, synch the throttle bodies with a mercury gauge (or comparable tool) and set the TPS.
    Never accept mediocrity, always demand competence.

    Certified Aprilia Moto Service in Southern California
    Call me at 714 892-4056 for appointment

  7. #22
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    sprag clutch replacement

    i see this a step by step post for changing the sprag clutch on another type of aprilia any body willing to do one for the rxv/sxv with pictures and what locktite to used and torque settings would be good if someone done one as they a common issue on these engines cheers

  8. #23
    apriliaforum expert swerver's Avatar
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    How-To Throttle Body Sync

    This is a copy of the procedure from XVAsylum ( http://xvasylum.wikidot.com/guide:engine-tuning-101 ) but with pictures added to help noobs like me


    Things you'll need:

    * A CarbTune ( http://www.carbtune.com/ ), or homemade manometer ( http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0nKaGEMLZjs ). I use a CarbTune in this How-To, but the same principles apply.

    * 185mm of regular 8mm fuel hose (or same length/girth as your current bypass hose).


    1) Take your bike for a spin to get it up to normal operating temperature.

    2) Remove the seat and lift the tank.

    3) Disconnect the hoses connected to the right side of the airbox. These are the atmospheric pressure pickup and the oil breather hose.

    4) Remove airbox lid and airbox middle section using your long philips-head screwdriver, being careful to not lose the airbox screws.

    5) Remove the rear cylinder end of the vacuum hose (circled in red below) that links the vacuum ports of the two TBs together. This is called the Bypass Hose:

    Click image for larger version. 

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    6) Attach a 185mm length of regular 8mm fuel hose to the vacuum port of the rear TB (important to use this length and width of hose so that it matches the bypass hose and thus sustains vaccuum in the same way), then connect your CarbTune hoses to the two hoses you know have connected to each of your TB's vacuum ports:

    Click image for larger version. 

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    7) Hang your Carbtune off your handle bars with a cable tie so that it's suspended without being at an angle which might affect the readings:

    Click image for larger version. 

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    8) Fire the bike up and compare the levels of the two TBs on the CarbTune. Here is how my CarbTune looked - as you can see my TBs were not synced:

    Click image for larger version. 

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    9) If the levels on the CarbTune are different, locate the TB synchronization adjustment screw for your bike. For 07 and older bikes the screw looks like this - circled in red from top and left-hand side views:

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Click image for larger version. 

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    10) Loosen the TB synchronization adjustment screw (TBSS) just enough to be able to move the rear butterfly valve arm a little with a light tap of the screwdriver.

    11) Make fine adjustments using light taps, preferably with the CarbTune hanging in front of you to make sure you're causing the two levels to converge on being equal. Eventually you should end up with something like this:

    Click image for larger version. 

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    12) Once they're equal, tighten the TBSS, taking care to not allow the torque of the screw to shift the synchronization.

    Now the TBs are synchronized at idle. You think, "Great! We're done… Right?" Nope! The two cylinders actually have slightly different vacuums at different RPMs, which means that synchronized at idle doesn't mean it's synchronized at the RPMs that probably matter more to you. Blip the throttle and watch the vacuum levels drift.

    So, now you'll probably want to repeat the last three steps while blipping the throttle (tighten the TBSS before blipping the throttle!), making minor adjustments away from idle sync, towards your mid/high RPM sync. The problem is, you don't want to make idle unstable and also make the bike hard to start. So, I usually adjust towards the higher RPM sync until idle becomes a bit unstable, and then adjust back a titch. Once you're satisfied, put her back together. You're done!
    Last edited by swerver; 08-14-2013 at 10:33 AM.

  9. #24
    apriliaforum prov-nov
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    Very good job!!!

  10. #25
    apriliaforum prov-nov
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    Excellent write up. The steps are perfect and the photos are awesome.

  11. #26
    apriliaforum Member VEETWOTLS's Avatar
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    i've never seen one used so i'm self taught using the carbtune.

    i have a KTM950SER running 38 FCR's but doing the carb sync is basically the same.

    i see your idle is at 14cm
    just curious is that important ? as mine is at around 26-28cm. if i go lower my idle gets bad.


    .
    CHEERS: VEETWO

  12. #27
    apriliaforum prov-nov
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    nice job! awesome pic's!

  13. #28
    apriliaforum expert swerver's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by VEETWOTLS View Post
    i see your idle is at 14cm
    just curious is that important ? as mine is at around 26-28cm. if i go lower my idle gets bad.
    My Idle isn't set right yet, I'm still investigating the problem and maybe that's the cause - I don't know, I'm certainly no expert lol. I have a TPS min of 45 but I have to have the throttle position at around 8% to be able to idle at 2200 revs which apparently is not right - should be around 4% I think.

    btw all credit for this how-to goes to XYAsylum, SXVINWA and Allen Noland - I just added some pics to their instructions

  14. #29
    apriliaforum prov-nov
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    Quote Originally Posted by VEETWOTLS View Post
    i've never seen one used so i'm self taught using the carbtune.

    i have a KTM950SER running 38 FCR's but doing the carb sync is basically the same.

    i see your idle is at 14cm
    just curious is that important ? as mine is at around 26-28cm. if i go lower my idle gets bad.


    .

    The number will be different for different bikes, especially models.
    You want to focus on getting them even, at idle and as you go up the RPM range. They'll fluctuate and even cross, so use your best judgement as to where you want the final balance setting at.

  15. #30
    apriliaforum expert
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    anyone want to do a write up on how to do a valve check?

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