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Thread: Side stand "wiring device"

  1. #1
    apriliaforum expert kzmille's Avatar
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    Side stand "wiring device"

    In case anyone is wondering; the side stand "wiring device", aprilia part # 8124943 as decribed in the owners manual under "Removing The Side Stand", is now in stock at aprilia USA. My dealer just got me one. At about two dollars it is the cheapest part I've bought from aprilia.

    http://www.af1racing.com/store/Scrip...idproduct=3173


    My side stand switch recently failed. I've spliced the wires for the ignition circuit on the switch harness to prevent engine cut out while retaining the indicator light function. I plan to keep it this way for street use and use the "device" when I remove the side stand.
    Last edited by kzmille; 07-29-2007 at 09:37 AM.

  2. #2
    apriliaforum Member
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    I'm not sure I understand... on my 02 RSVR I removed the side stand (for racing) and rotated the switch to the down position. It works fine so far. Is this a potential problem or am I missing something?
    Flatt-out Racing
    Team OGRE
    02 RSVR - Race
    Black Ice Cooling

  3. #3
    apriliaforum Junkie RSV12K's Avatar
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    I think most people will rotate the switch because it is easy to do and you don't have to wait until hell freezes over to get it from Aprilia. You're not missing anything but you do have to make sure the switch won't pop back into position. I use a couple of zip ties and then wrap it with electrical tape just to be sure.

  4. #4
    apriliaforum expert kzmille's Avatar
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    Side Stand Switch

    The thing you are missing is the high failure rate of the switch which can cause the engine to cut off unexpectedly.

  5. #5
    apriliaforum Member
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    is the switch failure due to it moving to the off position, internal wiring, or ???
    Flatt-out Racing
    Team OGRE
    02 RSVR - Race
    Black Ice Cooling

  6. #6
    apriliaforum Junkie vp rsvmille's Avatar
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    If you can get to the wiring, then why don't you put in an override switch between the wires? That way you can switch it on and off as you please.
    VP in the Land of Oz

    There are only 10 types of people in this world that understand the binary language - those that do, and those that don't.

  7. #7
    apriliaforum expert kzmille's Avatar
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    Switch Failure

    jkflatt

    The switches fail because of either poor quality or poor design. Mine failed recently at something over 10,000 miles. The bike went from running perfectly for 10,000 miles, to one day cutting off completely and intermittently at least 30 times for from 2 to 10 seconds in a two hundred mile ride. It's not the wiring. It's not moving off position. It's just the switch failing. If it failed while at the limit on the track it could be bad. If it fails when you're hundreds of miles from home you'd be stuck on the side of the road trying to figure out which wires to splice.

  8. #8
    apriliaforum expert Louge's Avatar
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    I've spliced the wires for the ignition circuit on the switch harness to prevent engine cut out while retaining the indicator light function.
    kz,

    My second switch failed on a ride recently. I'd also like to permanently wire it off. Can you post which wires to connect to retain the instrument cluster indicator light.

    Thanks,
    Lou

  9. #9
    apriliaforum Junkie deputydog95's Avatar
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    it's the two outside wires on the harness

    leave the third (middle) one alone. i haven't done it yet but somebody at the track showed me how to do it. i've been trying to get the euro aprilia part with no sucess. hopefully i can get it now that's it's available here. i wouldn't rely on zip tying the switch. i did it that way once after i started dragging my sidestand, but i kept worrying it would come loose. besides, how often do you forget to put your sidestand up?

  10. #10
    apriliaforum expert kzmille's Avatar
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    Switch Modification

    Sorry to take so long to respond. First, if you haven't already, find the side stand switch connector. You need to raise the tank. It's to the inside of the left frame rail, above the sprocket cover, zip tied to part of the harness. Undo the connector. It's easier to work on if you completely remove the switch. Modify the switch pigtail, not the main harness. Three wires come out of the connector and go into black plastic sleeve. About two inches from the connecror is some tape. Remove it. You'll see that the first sleeve is slipped into the main sleeve. After removing the tape, push the short sleeve into the main one as far as you can but not so far you cannot retrieve it. Cut the brown wire as far from the connector as you can. Bend it back towards the connector. Strip 3/8ths inch off the end. With out cutting the wire; strip 3/8ths inch of insulation off the black wire close to the connector. Wrap and solder the brown wire to the black wire. If you have the tool remove the terminal from the connector and put a piece of heat shrink on it. Pull the afore mentioned sleeve back into position and retape it. That's about it. Put it all back together.

  11. #11
    apriliaforum Junkie deputydog95's Avatar
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    that seems like the hard way

    why not just get a couple spade connectors and jump the two outside wires?

  12. #12
    apriliaforum expert kzmille's Avatar
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    This allows you to hard wire the ignition circuit and still have the side stand indicator light function.

  13. #13
    apriliaforum expert kzmille's Avatar
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    Forgetful?

    I know we'd all like to think we would never leave the side stand down but it happens. Over the years I have encountered many motorcycles tooling along with the stand down. Usually nothing much happens. You initiate your turn and the stand touches down. The bike twitches a little and makes some noise. You feel stupid and vow not to let that happen again. But, if you really pitch the bike into a turn, as we sport bike riders are prone to, the sudden strong jolt can lift the rear tire and cause a crash.
    Mistakes like this usually happen when something distracts you and you break your routine. Every bike I have had since 1981 has had some design feature that made it imposible to drive off with the stand down. I don't plan to replace the switch since they have such a high failure rate but having the indicator light function gives me some protection.

  14. #14
    apriliaforum newb Mille_Finners's Avatar
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    Hi kzmille -

    Louge pointed me to your thread here. I may also have this side-stand switch problem on my '00 Mille.

    Engine dies in exactly the manner you described.

    Thought that the fault seemed to be a fuel pump problem, as I cannot hear pump whine when turning on ignition, and cannot smell unburnt fuel from exhaust after cranking.

    My question is this: when the engine is in NEUTRAL, and assuming the switch IS faulty - will the engine fail to run (even when in neutral)? If yes (fails to run) - you've solved my problem & I'll wire up the fix you describe. If no (can still run if in neutral) - then at least I know the problem is not the switch.

    Thanks in advance...

    - Finners

  15. #15
    apriliaforum expert banjaxxed's Avatar
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    They all do this, the design is poo. You can change the contact points to stop the cutout function but retain the light in the dash, works for me
    "Give me chastity and continence, but not yet." - Saint Augustine (354-430)

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