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Thread: Custom Powercommander map

  1. #61
    apriliaforum Junkie oz-strom's Avatar
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    Blocking the SAS will not affct performance - it is as you said an emissions measure. I just popped a glass marble in the rubber hose above the pipe and left it connected - very little popping now with Arrows.
    Cheers
    Graham
    Brisbane
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    2010 Shiver Sport

    2008 KTM 690E

    http://s18.photobucket.com/albums/b114/Oz-Strom/

  2. #62
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    Would a "blind" aluminium plate between gasket to the cylinder head and the SAS piping be a safer way than pressing in a foreign object into a rubber hose?

    Having the plate shaped exactly like the gasket would make it practically unvisible to the naked eye and easily removable, should you want to sell the bike or need to have it emission tested.

  3. #63
    apriliaforum Junkie Mammad's Avatar
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    Is there a guide for disabling the SAS in an older thread or something? Anyway which is the best way of doing it? Would cutting off the power to the SAS valve do the trick, or will it cause an error in the ecu?

    I've also read the following in the workshop manual:

    Moreover, overheating might derive due to air not circulating, thus causing damages to SAS tubes and unions.
    DANGER
    Stop air from circulating using only suitable equipment; using plugs to block off the air box scoop might overheat and damage the secondary air system and, if left there for a certain time, the plug might enter the intake channel while the vehicle is running, thus jamming the throttle and making the vehicle
    impossible to control.

    Is it true that disabling it will cause permanent damage ?
    Mammad - 2009 Shiver GT

  4. #64
    apriliaforum Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mammad View Post
    ...........
    Moreover, overheating might derive due to air not circulating, thus causing damages to SAS tubes and unions.
    DANGER
    Stop air from circulating using only suitable equipment; using plugs to block off the air box scoop might overheat and damage the secondary air system and, if left there for a certain time, the plug might enter the intake channel while the vehicle is running, thus jamming the throttle and making the vehicle impossible to control.

    Is it true that disabling it will cause permanent damage ?
    Indeed, a worst case scenario, that would apply to sticking a foreign object into the rubber hose. However: "Stop air from circulating using only suitable equipment...." would indicate that there's a way to do it right....

  5. #65
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    Hey Mammad, I've got exactly the same setup as you (PCIII, K&N, MIVVS) and at the moment I'm running the leovince map (506), which I've found to be pretty good. Haven't played with the yamaha maps much since I fitted the pipes.

    The Mivv pipes are great, but I found them a bit too quiet with the baffles in and too loud with them out, so I cut the baffles off quite short to about 1cm length, which is just about right. I'm having my bike mapped in a couple of days, so I'd be happy to send you a copy. Anyone who is interested, please PM me

  6. #66
    apriliaforum Junkie Mammad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bertoni View Post
    Hey Mammad, I've got exactly the same setup as you (PCIII, K&N, MIVVS) and at the moment I'm running the leovince map (506), which I've found to be pretty good. Haven't played with the yamaha maps much since I fitted the pipes.

    The Mivv pipes are great, but I found them a bit too quiet with the baffles in and too loud with them out, so I cut the baffles off quite short to about 1cm length, which is just about right. I'm having my bike mapped in a couple of days, so I'd be happy to send you a copy. Anyone who is interested, please PM me
    Thanks for the info Bertoni. I'm thinking of running without the baffles. Are they that loud without them? Anyway I'm going to try the map you suggested and see how it goes. I guess you will map the bike with the cut baffles in but I'd be grateful if you could send the map anyway. I'll PM you later. And since I still haven't got my bike running after the fuel pump died I cannot provide feedback. I hope to sort this out soon.

    Is there any easy way to remove the baffles without damaging the exhaust tip? That rivet seems to be firm and I'd like some advice before I try and butcher it off.
    Mammad - 2009 Shiver GT

  7. #67
    apriliaforum expert Frodo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bertoni View Post
    The Mivv pipes are great
    Where did you get them and how much were they?
    Frodo
    2015 Shiver
    New Zealand

  8. #68
    apriliaforum Junkie Mammad's Avatar
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    I got mine from e-bay. I originally ordered the Leos for 290e (plus 25e for postage from Italy to Greece) but the seller didn't have them in stock after all and claimed that they are not produced anymore, so he offered me the Mivvs (which were a bit pricier, around 360e..) at the same price. I installed them today. That db-killer was a real pain to remove..
    Mammad - 2009 Shiver GT

  9. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frodo View Post
    Where did you get them and how much were they?
    Got them from a site based in South Australia, which is the Mivv dealer for australia as far as I can tell - www.bikemonkey.com.au. The service was really good, but be warned the pipes took about six weeks to arrive from Italy (admittedly I ordered them just before Easter, apparently it's normally quicker). The aluminium ones are $899, carbon $1099 and titanium $1299 (AUD), and the quality of the finish is very good (I got the carbon ones). I think the Arrow cans are priced similarly as an alternative.

    I'll try to get some pics up on the site in the next few days. I'm not really a fan of the logo on the side (same for pretty much all the aftermarket pipes), so I'm trying to work out how to take it off without damaging the cans. And for Mammad, the pipes with the baffles out sound awesome on the open road (plus you get blue flames!), but I personally found them a bit too offensive riding around town here. Interestingly they seem to quieten down a bit when the engine warms up, so if you're commuting or doing longer trips it may not bother you.

  10. #70
    apriliaforum Junkie Mammad's Avatar
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    Thanks for the map Bertoni. I'm really looking forward to trying this. My fuel pump will arrive after 17/8 though since Aprilia in Italy and Athens is closed for now.

    About your setup, have you also done the cut snorkel mod? Mine is cut, so I guess the map will not be totally right for me. And another question, did you disable the SAS when you did the mapping? I believe this is needed since an emissions analyzer is involved in the mapping process. I'm also thinking of removing the resonator box, which means that if I do that too our air intake should differ a lot. Please post about your exact setup if there is anything more other than the K&N and the Mivvs in it. Thanks again for the map mate. Cheers.
    Mammad - 2009 Shiver GT

  11. #71
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    Yeah, I have done the snorkel mod - cut off to about 1cm long inside the airbox. Other mods are K&N filter and Mivv pipes. Baffles are in, but I have cut them off with a hacksaw to about 1cm long inside the can. I did this firstly to improve the sound, and more importantly because the mechanic couldn't fit the emissions probe down the pipe far enough with the stock baffles to accurately map it. Only problem is that the cut baffles apparrently cause a reverberating wave of exhaust gases at certain rpm, which is why the map is comparitively rich in the mid range (to overcome it). You don't notice it at all when riding though. I also swapped the plug for an iridium one after the mapping, which has improved it further. I found that the plug on the bike before was a CR8, and the CR7 iridium makes things smoother, especially while the engine is warming up. Not sure if the mechanic disabled the SAS or not, but I didn't. I occasionally get some popping or a backfire on low rpm downshifting, but it's rare.

    Overall impressions of the map is that the bike runs much more smoothly, throttle more responsive and more power. The power band seems to have been shifted downwards a bit, the engine is quite torquey even from down at 2000rpm, and max power seems to be about 5500rpm (although it continues it a fairly linear way to the rev limiter). The dyno says I'm getting 45rwhp. Overall it now feels like the bike it should be. Still some minor surging in certain situations, but I guess that's what I signed up for with a big single, and I'm still amazed sometimes at how agile and fun these bikes are

  12. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mammad View Post
    Is there a guide for disabling the SAS in an older thread or something? Anyway which is the best way of doing it? Would cutting off the power to the SAS valve do the trick, or will it cause an error in the ecu?

    I've also read the following in the workshop manual:

    Moreover, overheating might derive due to air not circulating, thus causing damages to SAS tubes and unions.
    DANGER
    Stop air from circulating using only suitable equipment; using plugs to block off the air box scoop might overheat and damage the secondary air system and, if left there for a certain time, the plug might enter the intake channel while the vehicle is running, thus jamming the throttle and making the vehicle
    impossible to control.

    Is it true that disabling it will cause permanent damage ?
    The pair valve in the SAS system operates mechanically (reed valve) and electronically (magnet open\close control) just disconnecting the wires will not disable it completely.
    i ride since years with a screw in the SAS pipe that is blocking it, so far no problems and when i need to do the TUV in Germany i remove the screw and the system was working again.
    As far as i know if the SAS is not blocked making a map for PC3 with gas analyzer will not be optimal.

  13. #73
    apriliaforum expert Frodo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bertoni View Post
    Yeah, I have done the snorkel mod - cut off to about 1cm long inside the airbox. I did this firstly to improve the sound, and more importantly because the mechanic couldn't fit the emissions probe down the pipe far enough with the stock baffles to accurately map it.
    There is an access point for mixture measurements underneath the silver heat shield that covers the pipes on the right hand side of the motor. Just unscrew the blanking plug. It is important that the measurement is taken before the catalytic convertor on the standard pipes. I know that aftermarket pipes do not have the cat. but the access point is easier.

    I agree with Elvis that the SAS needs to be disconnected.

    I had a similar experience with my custom map - more grunt down low. But the bike also revs more freely. I don't find much point in going above 6000rpm.

    Cheers
    Frodo
    2015 Shiver
    New Zealand

  14. #74
    apriliaforum newb anderalex84's Avatar
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    Hi I'm new here. Great forum! I have a Pegaso strada 2005 model with the surging problem between 3000-4000 rpm. Annoying! Therefore, I ordered a pc3 in an attempt to eliminate the problem. The Power Commander has not arrived in the mail yet. I'd much appreciate if anyone has a custom map for my bike and its setup. Or, if someone has a suggestion of which map I should install. 501, 502, 503 etc. I have cut snorkel, put in K & N filter, switched to iridium spark plug and Mivv aftermarket aluminum pipes. I plan on ride with the baffles in, in order to prevent tinnitus.Thank you in advance for feedback Best regards Alexander, Bergen Norway.

  15. #75
    apriliaforum prov-nov Pegaso Tegelen's Avatar
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    After reading everything about the surging issue, I bought the Power commander III and finally I worked it out: On my 2010 Factory, I loaded the XT660 Tenere map (Stock exhaust, Stock filter, snorkel removed): and voilą! That did the trick. Now it revs smoothly and runs without hesitation even at the former trouble zones 3250 rpm 4250 rpm. Hope this helps you guys, too. Happy Pegaso owner. (It ran good, now it rund BRILLIANTLY!!!!)

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