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Thread: I Will Be Installing a Different Carb in my Scarabeo (2001) 150

  1. #46
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    that rotax will do 70 , 72 mph but that's gojng to kill,wear out the meccies rapidly and with parts issues,expense Etc can be costly I never recomend over 67 indicated just under 60 real mph constantly from cali to NC ok push to 72 for very quik pass if you must try to live up there Cheaper to buy a 300 and give 150 to Gf seriously BTDT this year at least thee 150 is still w/me I do love her

  2. #47
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    I had a GY6 clone bike with the Densi (Denki?) slide carb and vacuume fuel pump. Once I cleaned the ethanol residue out of the fuel system and carbon from the cylinder it would do a pretty solid 60 mph. I ended up on a monthly basis using Berrymans Total cleaner to deal with the way ethanol effected that bike and keep the ring/valves carbon free. If I waited more than I month it would start to loose top end and start cutting out with symptoms of fuel starvation below 60 mph. Push it past 60 for long and you would have fuel starvation issues but I felt that my reminder to back off before the engine tore itself apart.

  3. #48
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    I used ride it all over the place but I generally stay under 60 it's my understanding that the speedometer is a bit generous. I wanted a beo 150 for years before I got mine because I just think it's one of the prettiest scooters ever and I love the way it rides when it runs like it used to . Unfortunately ever since I took it to the best scooter shop in town it's troubled and I can't get it to run for more than a few miles. According to my new mechanic the carb is clean, there is good spark and the lines are clear.So I guess my choices are between a new fuel pump and plastic diaphram or the electric mini pump. Having been stranded so often I think I'm leaning more toward the electric pump.I appreciate all the advice here.

  4. #49
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    Do try that Mini Electric its a metal square Amazon has it like 25$ If your lines are dry after she pisses out and you think it shut off like it/s running Out of fuel And you pumps is or is not up 2 snuff as above then Yes Id certainley go Elec.. But gravity Should work Damn well 2 mines been on it four months now GF drives her daily in a loooong left sweeper 30 seconds or so she will sputter but yer up n over to right a long tyme ago.. It likes gas in tank with this setup.. The beo 150 is almost untouchable in thee city period its a best choice for a city bike performance and economy and the girls love em 2.. One of My Gf will not get off the 150 for a minute

  5. #50
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    Ill be coming thru Ga headed to Barber sports plex in Ala first week june I could possibly stop by cant be too far outta way

  6. #51
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    My tank was below the floor board and when I would be pushing it over 60 mph (I am 6' even and weigh around 250 lbs) all I had to do was roll off the throttle a bit to get the intake pulses going again so the carb bowl would refill in very short time and I would only loose a few mph in the bargain by the time the event was over. Don't roll off the throttle and try to force it to continue wide opened and it would stall out and come to a complete stop before you could get it started again.

  7. #52
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    Tom that's a generous offer and I may take you up on it.

  8. #53
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    hi all, so im a bit behind but looking at why my recently upgraded 125-150 beo still doest seem to be as fast as the guy on ebay selling a 125 beo who tells me its capeable of 70 i arrived here to see what it may be. a little history. i bought this bike in april with a poor starting engine and suspected engine failure.
    having searched about i decided on a whim it was the crank. so i bought a leonardo 125 crank, a head, 2 cylinders, one that had a piston. having researched and consulted with my friend who is my jiminy cricket i guess i started taking the thing apart. it was in fact a very blocked carb and also the valve adjustment. well after breaking a jet stripping the carb for the maybe 20th time i got the damn thing going, then i worked out that you can fill the bottom of the float bowl with water and test the accelerator pump with the carb in bits, it was blocked as well. so many things wrong at the same time.
    i got the thing going with bits from the new and old carb. many parts from both the 125 and 150 are the same. the piston and barrel from one will swap to the other as a straight swap and i have proved this since as i now have a 150 scab. gearbox parts are diff but doesnt stop the easy swap. to make a 200 you need a diff crank and also crankcase and i didnt look further. anyway...
    the point i was going to make was, after i made it better i would go out on my new self built 125 scab, before the 150 upgrade and after maybe 4 or so miles it would conk. id sit there being depressed for maybe 5 mins then start cranking and off wed go. after a bit of this. now id go for 1 mile maybe 2 id conk out again. this took me maybe 2 weeks of this to work out what was wrong. odd realy as the bike had the one way fuel valve pointing the wrong way, now this wasnt what was wrong but its worth checking. if you take the fuel cap off fuel should run from the little hole by the cap constantly. as the float operates in the carb the fuel is diverted back to the tank through this pipe and the valve i guess stops air being taken in. well i happened to have the cap off and started the bike and no fuel. i started taking the panels off and fuel so the bloody vacuum pipe was trapped the whole time due to my locating the tank in not quite the right place for the vacuum to freely run after the thing warmed up. how? i dont know but check this before you do anything else! fist post sorry it was mumbled and a bit late. i find forum posts years after they have been originaly posted and people posting later helps me no end. cheers

  9. #54
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    if you take the fuel cap off fuel should run from the little hole by the cap constantly. as the float operates in the carb the fuel is diverted back to the tank through this pipe and the valve i guess stops air being taken in.

  10. #55
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    Above me thinks this is not correct Not ever seen before on any rotax bikes or rotax scoots ,,.

  11. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by tomd View Post
    Above me thinks this is not correct Not ever seen before on any rotax bikes or rotax scoots ,,.
    well i can only tell you how i see it. the vacuum pump is operated from the engine running. it needs to run constantly as there is no cut off so pumping fuel constantly all the time the engine runs or its pumping with no where to go which would pressure the pump diaphrams. the float closes the fuel off and the fuel needs somewhere to go so it goes back to the tank. what other purpose does the pipe running from the fuel pipe from the tank to the y peice to the carb or diverts to the filler cap neck serve? id be happy for a better explanation but i cant see one. take the tank cap off and see if the fuel is pumping to the tank. if it isnt take the plastic cowling off at the front under the seat and see if the vacuum pipe is trapped, you will know if the fuel starts to run again and the placing of the fuel tank is a bit inacurate and can be moved about over maybe 1 inch (plenty enough to trap the vacuum pipe). that was my problem anyway. if anyone wants to disagree with this and explain better as to why there should be a pipe that runs from the side of the tank filler neck towards then intercepts the fuel pipe between the fuel pump and then carb with a one way valve heading in the opposite direction il gladly post a video showing how my bike runs like that.

  12. #57
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    the hole top of filler neck with thee plastic with a cut out in it that's an Evap hose its connected to charcoal cannister on floorboard you do not want to flood thee cannister

  13. #58
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    not on my t reg scarabeo it isnt. the fuel pipe funs up from the pump over the top of the tank to a y peice where it splits. one way it goes to the carb which has the float that turns the fuel on and off inside the carb. the other split goes to the neck of the filler cap and half way along there is the one way valve. this used to be facing away from the neck but that seemed wrong so i turned it round. now as the fuel fills the float bowl and gets cut off it is diverted back to the tank. there are channels in the top of the tank for this routing arrangement so i cant see it being wrong. ive found a picture of the arrangement here for you. 17 being the ypeice and 13 being the one way valve and 16 then leads back to the tank. http://www.vespaspares.co.uk/SPARES/.../9895/AP34.jpg on my bike there is only one vacuum hose 25 that leads round the front of the tank and that has a small moulded channel to clip the pipe and it was this that was where my problem was. it sits proud around the front of the tank and the big faring clamped it so it lost vacuum pulse.

  14. #59
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    Yes I guerss if youve no emissions not that way in a Rotax 150 sitting on USA soil so far Ive owned two work on countless otrhers interesting so dont clamp front line and ur good then i guess all markets emissions are different..

  15. #60
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    ahh yes looking at that youve no lines like us here this is how usa people shld make theirs when the emissons system fails much simpler hose routing and about three pounds gone cannister etc

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