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Thread: Ricks Motorsports Stator Version 2 - Thicker next step wires

  1. #181
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    Quote Originally Posted by Diablo1 View Post
    No. The stock rectifier continues to draw current when the battery is fully charged. Then it takes that current and grounds it out. At high rpm, full current is flowing through the stator and to the rectifier to be grounded out. The high current in the stator creates heat in the stator. This new rectifier increases the resistance in the circuit as the battery voltage rises.As the resistance increases, the current flow in the stator decreases. The lower current flow in the stator reduces heat.
    So Diablo,

    What do you think? Do you think this would fix our issues for good? I know you cant be sure, but if heat is indeed the reason our stators are dying it should reduce the amount of damage that is being done to the stators. No?

  2. #182
    apriliaforum expert kzmille's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by noskills View Post
    ...but if heat is indeed the reason our stators are dying it should reduce the amount of damage that is being done to the stators. No?
    And to the oil as well.

    Theknurl was working on a series regulator but I've never heard if he got it working. Though I haven't had any failures on my 01 other than connectors I would love to reduce the load on the engine +++ and get rid of the oil cooker. Would like to learn more about this unit and fit one if it does all that is claimed.

  3. #183
    apriliaforum expert kzmille's Avatar
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    Looking at that link just now I see this statement:

    "Blocks current to control voltage which reduces stator current resulting in lower temperature and less drag on the motor and more efficient operation"

    I believe this is a reference to alternators that have an electro magnet and not the permanent magnet like ours so I'm not sure this is going to do much for us.

    I wish we could have a regulator that would just disconnect the three stator leads when the battery is full then there would be no current flowing from the stator. Or some kind of variable resistors on the three leads rather shunting it to ground.

    Have any of you with failed stators replaced the rectifier? Maybe the problem is a bad rectifier causing excessive load on the stator.

  4. #184
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    Quote Originally Posted by kzmille View Post
    Looking at that link just now I see this statement:

    "Blocks current to control voltage which reduces stator current resulting in lower temperature and less drag on the motor and more efficient operation"

    I believe this is a reference to alternators that have an electro magnet and not the permanent magnet like ours so I'm not sure this is going to do much for us.
    KZ, I believe this is a series regulator designed for a permanent magnetic three phase alternator. They link it to a a 3-phase PM alternator here:

    http://www.jpcycles.com/product/382-705

    I think this will solve the stator burnup problems. Someone should call these guys up just to verify it is a series regulator. Also we need a guinea pig to measure stator current vs rpm with a charged battery while using this new regulator.
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  5. #185
    apriliaforum expert kzmille's Avatar
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    Okay, Thanks for that. Definitely a permanent magnet type in the picture

  6. #186
    apriliaforum expert Reubens32's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rws06rsv View Post
    contact me if you have any questions about the install.....and no comments please on the tidyness of the install, I was in a hurry and there as not much there to mount extra bracing for the huge regulator.

    cheers!
    When you have a chance, can you explain how to connect the rectifier?

    There are are yellow and black wires that it normally connects to....and I'm concerned that I'll screw up the connection. Thanks!!
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  7. #187
    apriliaforum expert mini_me's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Diablo1 View Post
    KZ, I believe this is a series regulator designed for a permanent magnetic three phase alternator. They link it to a a 3-phase PM alternator here:

    http://www.jpcycles.com/product/382-705

    I think this will solve the stator burnup problems. Someone should call these guys up just to verify it is a series regulator. Also we need a guinea pig to measure stator current vs rpm with a charged battery while using this new regulator.

    The user reviews don't look very promising to me especially the "stator died" part. But then again, most of the time only the dissatisfied users tend to post reviews:

    The first review:
    O.K. quality, but don't expect any help from Compufire in clarifying their unclear install instructions! You would at least expect some kind of an answer from them!!

    The second review:
    Item worked as advertised, except stator died within two months. Warranty is supposed to cover the parts for 2 years, but is a bit of work involved and time to pull and replace
    Last edited by mini_me; 12-29-2009 at 06:51 AM.
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  8. #188
    apriliaforum expert mini_me's Avatar
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    This is some interesting reading on the electrosport website.
    'Before you criticise someone, you should walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you criticise them, you are a mile away from them and you have their shoes.'


  9. #189
    apriliaforum Member rws06rsv's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kzmille View Post
    And to the oil as well.

    Theknurl was working on a series regulator but I've never heard if he got it working. Though I haven't had any failures on my 01 other than connectors I would love to reduce the load on the engine +++ and get rid of the oil cooker. Would like to learn more about this unit and fit one if it does all that is claimed.
    The series regulator that theknurl was referring to was the Cycle Electric series regulator that I installed. So far, so good and when I get some time I'll compare the temperature of the stator side of the engine. Though I am seeing no connector temperatures above ambient and nor are the wires above what I call normal ambient (for around the engine that is). So Far I am VERY happy with this solution.
    Last edited by rws06rsv; 12-29-2009 at 08:12 AM.

  10. #190
    apriliaforum Member rws06rsv's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mini_me View Post
    The first review:
    The user reviews don't look very promising to me especially the "stator died" part. But then again, most of the time only the dissatisfied users tend to post reviews:

    The second review:
    O.K. quality, but don't expect any help from Compufire in clarifying their unclear install instructions! You would at least expect some kind of an answer from them!!

    Item worked as advertised, except stator died within two months. Warranty is supposed to cover the parts for 2 years, but is a bit of work involved and time to pull and replace
    I don't quite understand why they refer to Compufire, is that another name for cycle electric? anyway, they refers to the stator, so I hope the regulator is better quality :-).....could also be that the guy was not competent, that could be a factor.

  11. #191
    apriliaforum Member rws06rsv's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Reubens32 View Post
    When you have a chance, can you explain how to connect the rectifier?

    There are are yellow and black wires that it normally connects to....and I'm concerned that I'll screw up the connection. Thanks!!
    Reubens32, are you comfortable crimping all the connectors etc? make sure you have a good crimp tool designed for those connectors. If you don't mind wrecking the stock regulator connectors and wiring and the connectors are in good condition, then you can snip them off and crimp (and solder) ring connectors on to connect to the new reg.
    OR
    you could snip the connectors off the harness and crimp the ring connectors straight to the harness. this would be the best for minimising the number of points of failure and voltage drops but increase the chances of making a wrong connection or shorting something out while stuffing about mounting it. I left the orig. regulator intact, put it aside and did the following:

    on the stator side:

    Snipped off the 3-pin brown connector. crimped on new ring terminals and connected to regulator. you can connect any wire to any terminal, it does not matter. These are all yellow wires and there are no unique marks any any of them.

    On the DC output side:

    The two red wires on one end of the connector connect to the SAME '+' Terminal on the regulator. the two blue wires connect to the same 'GND' Terminal on the Regulator. The Green Wire is left disconnected.

    I found a 6-pin plug/socket set at the local auto-electrical supplier that was similar , apart from the locking clip, to the stock housing. I completely replaced the plastic housing. I inserted the existing crimped spade connectors still attached to the wires into the new male housing. They are arrange the same as they were originally. it is not too hard to get wrong, just keep the red to the positive and the blue to the ground side.

    have a close look at the photos I took. and if you like I will take another so you can more clearly see the colour of the wires on the harness side of the 6-pin plug.

    I am crap at explaining things so hope this makes some sense.

    Lach.

  12. #192
    apriliaforum expert Reubens32's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rws06rsv View Post
    Reubens32, are you comfortable crimping all the connectors etc? make sure you have a good crimp tool designed for those connectors. If you don't mind wrecking the stock regulator connectors and wiring and the connectors are in good condition, then you can snip them off and crimp (and solder) ring connectors on to connect to the new reg.
    OR
    you could snip the connectors off the harness and crimp the ring connectors straight to the harness. this would be the best for minimising the number of points of failure and voltage drops but increase the chances of making a wrong connection or shorting something out while stuffing about mounting it. I left the orig. regulator intact, put it aside and did the following:

    on the stator side:

    Snipped off the 3-pin brown connector. crimped on new ring terminals and connected to regulator. you can connect any wire to any terminal, it does not matter. These are all yellow wires and there are no unique marks any any of them.

    On the DC output side:

    The two red wires on one end of the connector connect to the SAME '+' Terminal on the regulator. the two blue wires connect to the same 'GND' Terminal on the Regulator. The Green Wire is left disconnected.

    I found a 6-pin plug/socket set at the local auto-electrical supplier that was similar , apart from the locking clip, to the stock housing. I completely replaced the plastic housing. I inserted the existing crimped spade connectors still attached to the wires into the new male housing. They are arrange the same as they were originally. it is not too hard to get wrong, just keep the red to the positive and the blue to the ground side.

    have a close look at the photos I took. and if you like I will take another so you can more clearly see the colour of the wires on the harness side of the 6-pin plug.

    I am crap at explaining things so hope this makes some sense.

    Lach.

    Okay...looks pretty straight so far.

    Please confirm this for Lach:

    BOTH BLACK Connect to the BLUE / Green Side

    BOTH RED out of Rectifier goes INTO the Solid Red / Red-white striped wire?




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  13. #193
    apriliaforum Member rws06rsv's Avatar
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    O.K. some results:.

    the current on each of the windings started at about 11amps and quickly settled to around 7A and fluctuated up and down just a couple amps....fans kicking etc. AC amps of course. maybe if I waited it may have dropped more...but I doubt it.

    the voltage at idle was about 25v across each phase.

    you can't just calculate the wattage output from the above values since you need to consider conversion losses and somehow work out the power factor here but my electrical engineering is way too rusty for that.

    Output:
    no matter what the revs were the output was a steady 14.7v.
    The current on the output of the regulator was between 10 an 17A. I waited about 10min but it would be good to measure this stuff after a ride...

    The voltage at the battery was 14.0V steady.

    How do these numbers sound? anyone want to measure the stock values?

    Oh and after 10 min I could still put my hand on the cover. but it was definitely hotter than anything else I could find....I really need to measure it after a ride.
    Last edited by rws06rsv; 12-29-2009 at 07:04 PM.

  14. #194
    apriliaforum Member rws06rsv's Avatar
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    Reubens32:

    here are some pics of the wiring that should explain things.




  15. #195
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    Just wanted to chime in and say how interesting this thread is. A nail bitter for sure. Looking forward to some comparison/results, and if there is a simple way to better the not so great stock system.

    Keep it coming!
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