• DIY Installing your Leo Vince slip-on

    So now that we are finally getting the Tuono V4 here in the USA I am guessing the next few months are going to see a HUGE spike in the sale of Tuono V4 pipes from all manufacturers. This is a simple DIY thread about how to install you r own pipe in only a few minutes at home. Most of you probably need no guide but for those who are on the fence about whether or not this is something the average Joe/Jane can pull off at home hopefully this will help you decide. The first step is to get the bike secure, either on it's sidestand, a rear stand or a workbench. Most of the job is VERY straightforward but at least on the last two pipes I installed there was no real "manual" so I thought this might be of interest.

    I do not have pics from installation of the Akro/Aprilia/Arrow/Austin/GPR/etc just yet but as you guys get those pipes add pics to this thread so if there are differences in the install process they can be seen by all. Basically what I am getting at is that this install series I am writing today covers ONLY the Leo Vince pipe for SURE, it probably also covers other pipes however.

    Step one: Visualize your bike with a pipe...mmm, is it black? Carbon might be a good styling choice right? We shall use that color bike for this example but I will post pics of both the Ti pipe equipped yellow one I did this week and the black with CF pipe I also did on Saturday. To help you visualize we shall start with a couple of sample pics...

    This is the yellow Tuono V4 with the Ti Leo Vince pipe:

    This is the black Tuono V4 with the same pipe but in Carbon Fiber.

    Both are obviously good looking and anything you do to make this motor sound better nets HUGE gains in aural pleasure!

    When you open the box that arrives from Leo Vince this is what you will find inside:

    Once you remove all the packaging this is what you will find from that same box:

    There are some optional parts included by Leo Vince which include a carbon pipe hangar if you decide to ditch your passenger pegs or are using this in a track-only application. Pictured is the hangar and the hardware associated with it which will be left-over if you are using your stock passenger footrests to hand the new pipe from!

    These are all the tools you will need to complete the job:

    The stock muffler is held onto the chassis and headers by a combination of two bolts and a compression fitting the joins the stock muffler to the stock collector set, it has a 10mm hex drive screw that forces the clamp closed or when loosened allows you to move the muffler away from the header after the other bolts are removed, this is the first item you are looking for:

    A 10mm socket on a long extension is how I like to get at this one, notice the orientation of this bolt, as you will want the same orientation for the new compression fitting on the aftermarket pipe:

    The next bolt to go after is a 6mm Allen head bolt that is basically hidden from view if you are on the pipe side of the bike. It is very short and only screws into a rubber damper on the stock exhaust bracket. Remove it now, simple enough!


    Plenty of room to get at it, no worries there and it is easy to see from the opposite side fo the bike if your head is low enough:

    Now, onwards to the obvious bolt, this is the last one to remove. Your 6mm Allen driver and a 13mm box end wrench will come in very handy at this stage. Once this bolt is removed with the compression fitting at the header already loosened the pipe will be free to slide off, it may require a little more effort than expected or may not...I was working with brand new bikes both times so the assumption is that with age and mile racking up they will be a little harder to remove:

    This is the simple removal process:

    This is one area where I am not sure if all aftermarket pipes are the same. The bracket that joined the chassis to the exhaust can be removed when installing the LV pipe. I see no reason to keep it on the bike as after removing the stock pipe it no longer performs a function other than adding a small amount of ballast to the machine:

    Now gently grasp the stock pipe and wiggle and twist and whatnot to get it moving off the stock collector pipe. It is not nearly as heavy as I expected. Just be very careful during this portion of the job to make sure you do not scratch up your new toy! Here I am removing the pipe:

    The bike now looks like this:

    I like to reuse the stock bolt that was used by Aprilia for the top pipe mount to fill in the hole left when removed, added ballast yes, but so stylin' for a fancy washer....

    Now...you get to finally install a part, the link pipe. Just slip it over and make sure there is only enough tension on the 5mm Allen bolt that tensions the slip joint to keep it basically in place:

    Wondering what in the hell this part is as you unpacked your goodies we shipped you? Wonder no more, it will make perfect sense in only seconds!

    Well Aprilia was nice enough to leave pre threaded 8mm holes in the back side of the passengers footrests, before you add anything it looks like this:

    That bracket has a home! At this point you need to install that little bit of alloy and the short 6mm Allen (8x1.25mm thread) bolt that came with your exhaust kit:

    Slide the silencer strap over the silencer and look closely at how the rubberized edges fit, only one way is right and it will be pretty obvious, there are no marks however to confirm you have it right. This is also the point where you will start to see the reasons all those little alloy bits and that long 6mm bolts were included in your exhaust kit. Just loosely fit the strap and pipe at this point:

    This next picture shows the correct stacking order as best I can tell for the assemblage of smaller bits....

    Now you can start tightening stuff down and pulling the springs into place. Make sure the link pipe is fully seated and the silencer is fully seated onto the link pipe. once the silencer is tightened to the bracket you can go back and tighten the top clamp on the link pipe where it joins the stock collector set.

    You are so close to done now you can feel it...BUT WAIT...there is one more very important step if you want it to look good for years to come, or at least not have bodily oils baked into your new metal goods! Break out a good polishing rag and a nice paper towel, i prefer paper but it does not really matter and hose it down with WD40...yes, I mean it, do it!

    Now use that rag/towel to clean EVERYTHING you touched with your hands that will be at 700-900 degrees in a few minutes! It gives the metal a nice finish as the oil cooks into it, and removes all your fingerprints before massively cooking them!

    Now, go ride the damn thing! If you have updated mapping and leave the db killer in place the bike compensates pretty well and sounds killer but not a LOT louder than stock, If you remove the db killer it gets WAY louder than stock under load! This is what you have to look forward to once mounted in a visual sense. I am done for today...been at this photo edit since 9am with over 900 pics spread between 4 memory cards from the last week, time for a killer dinner! I earned it this week!

    This article was originally published in forum thread: DIY Installing your slip on (Leo Vince used for this example) started by Micah / AF1 Racing View original post
    Comments 137 Comments
    1. VMaster's Avatar
      VMaster -
      Looks great with that can!
    1. bartho's Avatar
      bartho -
      Micah, Do you think it's possible to shorten the link-pipe and use the original mounting. With this Leovince of course.
    1. Micah / AF1 Racing's Avatar
      Micah / AF1 Racing -
      It may be? I will have to look closely at a bike tomorrow and see what it looks like. Away from the shop today, mmm, gardening.
    1. falkdal's Avatar
      falkdal -
      I was just settling on the Akra pipe until you posted the yellow V4 with the titanium LV pipe - that is EXACTLY the look I want. So there really is now way to get the official unrestricted race map ECU codes with this pipe, the dealer has to create custom ones? Seems like if one wants a no hassle setup for the improved low RPM fueling and overall throttle smoothness the Akra slip on is the only game in town. Do you know if they at least make theirs in titanium?
    1. Micah / AF1 Racing's Avatar
      Micah / AF1 Racing -
      I would assume Akro does make their pipe in Ti, I cannot think of any carbon-only Akro pipes. Just gt the LV if you like it and send Ed here your ecu, he can some amazing shit with his software/hardware/skills when it comes to ref lashing your ecu. You will never notice the difference between one of his flashes and one of the race kit flashes. It is that transparent and like I said previously do not expect huge WFO dyno gains but the ride around track or town is totally different before and after!

      Btw, I have a sneaking suspicion that the exhaust valve in the collectors running partially closed while at light throttle. Those has a lot more to do with keep reversion air away from the lambda sensor than with noise or torque management. I only say this because I know when tuning bikes with onboard lambda like Yamaha and Suzuki you can get way more valid lambda signal at light cruise with the EXUP partially closed...cause less atmosphere gets back into the pipe and back up to the o2 sensor.

      All this tuning think has me thinking about he air injection block off ages. They are required really to properly tune a Bazzaz or PCV full tuning system with onboard tuner/logger since extra air dilution in the pipe would equal a lean reading. If air injection is removed on the stock closed loop mapping I bet some really strange and overly rich fueling can occur. The stock map and stock lambda have to be expecting a very high level of o2 in the pipes from the air injection system, when you block off this supply of fresh air the ecu on stock mapping is going to attempt to maintain the target lambda and therefore is either going to severely lean the fueling to get the expected amount of unburned air or go the other way to an extreme rich condition. Either side of stoichiometric and you end up with unburned air in the exhaust. More fun at ideas for the coming weeks and months.
    1. Micah / AF1 Racing's Avatar
      Micah / AF1 Racing -
      The flip side is that if you leave the DB killer in place and have updated and correctly installed stock mapping in your bike (like the one pictured here at the time pics were taken) they seem to run fine, not dangerously lean at all. A dynojet lambda will say dangerously lean but it is not accounting for air injection system...as mentioned earlier.

      I will update this thread from time to time with differences I find in the install process as I start doing more and more V4's. Ed has literally been doing 99% of the V4's we have had in the door in the last few years. I am learning as I go. Hell, other than at tech school I had never even programmed one or updated mapping till this last week. I am mentally taking on a role now with the modern RBW bikes. We will all learn from my failures and successes. Please feel free to share both sides of your stories.

      Eventually I will put together an install guide for full systems, that is a weekend of editing pics by itself for the same level and type of guide.

      In the next week I should be doing an Arrow and an Akro slip on for the Tuono V4 so the learning starts tomorrow. Pics usually follow 1-2 weeks behind due to my home photo workload going into storm and airshow season and trackday and fun stuff time of year around here!
    1. falkdal's Avatar
      falkdal -
      Quote Originally Posted by Micah / AF1 Racing View Post
      I would assume Akro does make their pipe in Ti, I cannot think of any carbon-only Akro pipes. Just gt the LV if you like it and send Ed here your ecu, he can some amazing shit with his software/hardware/skills when it comes to ref lashing your ecu. You will never notice the difference between one of his flashes and one of the race kit flashes. It is that transparent and like I said previously do not expect huge WFO dyno gains but the ride around track or town is totally different before and after!
      Yeah I'm not looking for WFO gains, I just want better around-town driveability and an even nicer soundtrack. I would probably leave the db killer in because my street is full of families with small kids (mine included) and I am very aware of my V2 with 2-into-2 full Akra race system being VERY louad when I come home at night.

      What kind of turnaround time could I expect on the ECU if I sent it to Ed? I only have one bike so I would have to borrow my wife's Ninja 500 while the ECU was out for service.
    1. Micah / AF1 Racing's Avatar
      Micah / AF1 Racing -
      Same day he gets the ecu he flashes and return ships it normally. A week or less with premium shipping options.
    1. bartho's Avatar
      bartho -
      I install the block off plates already and think he takes less fuel at low rpm but absolutely small difference. I am interested if you can find a solution at low rpm for the tuono v4. I tried the bazzaz on my rsv4 factory but there was no way to tune the bike at low(-3000) rpm. I had to leave the orig lambda. But higher rpm the bazzaz works fine and I even got 36 mpg witch was the best i could get. I hope we can get better fueling on the tuonov4. What i notice before is that the colder it is outsite the more he takes. At cold start in cold weather he takes a lot of fuel. Thats something that the bazzaz can't controle, it must be done in the ecu with other programming stuff.
    1. Micah / AF1 Racing's Avatar
      Micah / AF1 Racing -
      Cars are the same way. My BMW v12 gets about 1-2mpg less in really cold weather even though my two way commute is 40 miles. Almost all IC motors require significant cold start, cold running enrichment. Even my diesel car sees same effect. You can tune Bazzaz below 3k rpm on dyno but not using lambda probe,3-5 gas EGA is required for very low rpm.
    1. bartho's Avatar
      bartho -
      I tried to tune under the 3000 rpm with the o2 eliminator installed but i had very bad idle without changing map. So i took the eliminator out and installed the orig lambda back. I didn't tried witout bove ,I touth it will create a fault code.
    1. Micah / AF1 Racing's Avatar
      Micah / AF1 Racing -
      On the V4 you are basically correct. Most of the newer Piaggio motors rely heavily on closed loop feedback at low loads and rpms. Heck, I think my Vespa runs closed loop about 95% of the time. On the V4 for tuning I think I am going to play with a newer idea of mine that has worked very well on a few other bikes. I just need to figure out best base map and go from there. I know it is possible to get these things to get good fuel economy and also have wicked throttle response and WFO power. The Tuono V4 will probably respond very well, we shall see. No crystal ball here.
    1. Hyper's Avatar
      Hyper -
      That's the only slip-on i'd swap for an akra, really does fit well on the tuono
    1. Micke65's Avatar
      Micke65 -
      Quote Originally Posted by Hyper View Post
      That's the only slip-on i'd swap for an akra, really does fit well on the tuono
      Think so too .. Pic from this weekend taken by Firefish in the bush , atlast ! spring is here !!

      I like Leo .
    1. Micah / AF1 Racing's Avatar
      Micah / AF1 Racing -
      More Tuono V4 porno pics...

      so this is what happens if you decide passengers suck...and decide to install the structural carbon bracket that is included with the Leo Vince slip on exhaust...so ugly...hideous...cannot look away...fuck I love this bike...must save money...airplanes....look away...

      Now back away a bit, it may look worse from a distance right...

      Better check the other side...oh hell, it looks even better! I am not single, why do I need passenger pegs again...

    1. Micah / AF1 Racing's Avatar
      Micah / AF1 Racing -
      Did an Akro Carbon slip on on a Tuono V4 this week too, very friggin' nice pipe and shaped the way I like...and of course there is the sound issue, it is perfect baffle in or out, not too loud with db killer removed.

      Here is the bike:

      This is a closer look at the pipe. A Lot of people seem to think the Akro pipes look too "old" now, they just look "right" to me...which probably means I am getting old....

      Now from the rear, my preferred position, oh wait, that sound bad...

      Opposite side of whole bike...this one had mirrors removed and replaced with Rhino Moto bar end sliders and fancy CNC alloy bar end mirror on throttle side. I was a bit surprised I could actually see pretyy well behind me with this little bit of kit installed.

      I am unabashedly pro Akro. My reason vary from perfect fit and finish to little details like this spring hanger. This is like the most precision non aviation band clamp I have ever seen, that is the Akro one forward of the centerline of the EXUP valve in this pic. Little details like this go a long way with me!

      Since this thread is about pipes I will keep the bar end mirror talk and bar slider stuff to a minimum, out of focus should do it right?

    1. yobwoc's Avatar
      yobwoc -
      What's with the bolts and wires sticking out of the license plate? Is this something you do with temporary dealer plates or something?
    1. falkdal's Avatar
      falkdal -
      How does the sound compare between the Leo Vince and the Akro? The Leo is stubbier so does that make it louder? The Akro looks a lot longer in comparison.
    1. Micah / AF1 Racing's Avatar
      Micah / AF1 Racing -
      The Akro is quieter than the Leo with the DB killer out. With DB killers in place I would say both pipes sound about the same. If running open though on boh pipes the Amro sound is a bit deeper, more muffled bass than the screaming cresensdo of the Leo. Shorter pipes typically sound a little "sharper" and this is no exception. Both made lovely noise.
    1. patkin's Avatar
      patkin -
      Man those pipes are UGLY, prefer my Austin Racing can and doesn't need support off the rear pegs

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