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ckruzel
08-09-2005, 09:14 PM
i know there are alot of threads around on the stall, but they all go way off subject, bike stalls when coming to a stop, i slow down downshift through the gears as i almost stop and i pull in the clutch and go to click it in neutral it shuts off, not all the time, but alot

also when cold and during warm up - (over 110 degrees, sometimes even 170 or so) bike backfires through the throttle body into the air box under light throttle when pulling out from a stop


any detailed help would be greatly appreciated, i have heard some things about the air screws and also about a check valve

clarkie49
08-09-2005, 09:51 PM
you need a custom map plain and simple, the tigs have very little back pressure from being such a big muffler and the bike needs to be tunes accordingly. the backfire is caused by a lean condition on one of the cylinders

ckruzel
08-09-2005, 10:11 PM
i forgot to mention i have a custom map, and its running rich (sorry) the bike under hard acceleration is noticably quicker, pulls very hard everywhere, just is rich and stalls, but before i had the map made, they said it was lean, and it still stalls, so it stalled lean and rich??

it also stalled before the power commander - air screws????

clarkie49
08-09-2005, 10:26 PM
your problem is at idle right? it can be rich everywhere and even rich on one cylinder at idle but it only takes one cylinder to be lean at idle to make it stall, a popping/backfire in the intake is caused by a lean condition ;)

where are your bypass screws set? which version mapping do you have? which muffler did the air/fuel probe go into?

MDRSV
08-09-2005, 10:39 PM
Why not just take your PC and add fuel at 0,1, and 5 % TPS position at the low RPM's on the map and put that into the PC. I have a custom map but I messed with it quite a bit using the butt dyno watching the rpm and a estimate of the TPS....I was able to improve on the orignal custom map and got rid of a few surge/low spots over time..........

ckruzel
08-09-2005, 10:44 PM
clarkie, i'm not sure on all of those, i'll pass some of it on to skip, i just remember reading about a thread on the air screws

clarkie49
08-09-2005, 10:48 PM
check how many turns out they both are and i can tell you more from there, if the rear is closed and the front is 2-3 turns out i have your answer :)

novos
07-03-2007, 10:15 PM
Sorry to revive an old thread, but my bike just developed this exact problem....

What was the cause of your stalling, chris, did you ever find out?

Italijet
07-04-2007, 04:14 AM
Novos,
There are 2 main reasons for the stalling and backfiring.
The most common is the synchronisation of the throttle bodies, the second is the revision of the fuel map (the latest doesn't do it).

Have the fuel map upgraded and the throttle bodies synchronised by a reputible mechanic.

There is also the not so common vacuum hose failure or installation issues.

How old is the bike, what mods have been done (if new suspect map and sync). If older suspect vacuum hoses and gaskets.

novos
07-04-2007, 11:17 AM
The bike is older 04, I'll have to check the vacuum hoses then.... the problem developed in the middle of the ride so maybe something came loose...

GRMNMSL
07-04-2007, 11:39 AM
i know there are alot of threads around on the stall, but they all go way off subject, bike stalls when coming to a stop, i slow down downshift through the gears as i almost stop and i pull in the clutch and go to click it in neutral it shuts off, not all the time, but alot

I had this problem with mine when I first put my Pazzos on. When coming to a stop and just randomly sitting at a stop light, the bike would die. Turns out I was using too low of a setting (to keep the levers closer to the grips) and it wasn't engaging the clutch far enough, so I went a couple clicks up, and the problem went away. Just an idea.

BigMille
07-04-2007, 02:35 PM
The bike is older 04, I'll have to check the vacuum hoses then.... the problem developed in the middle of the ride so maybe something came loose...

Please keep us informed...

novos
07-04-2007, 02:36 PM
I'll bleed out the slave cyl as well... it was running hot all day yesterday at 200+ F so maybe that's the problem too...

Anders J.
07-04-2007, 02:51 PM
The bike is older 04, I'll have to check the vacuum hoses then.... the problem developed in the middle of the ride so maybe something came loose...

My bike just developed a bad idle and had a cracked vacuum hose. See the thread http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=121008

Flashfish
07-05-2007, 12:11 AM
Page 77 of full bike manual "ECU initialization must be performed whenever important engine components (valves,cyclinders, camshafts) the exhaust system, lambada etc are replaced. The three self adaptive correction factors for lambda, control of ignition timing are electronically reset."
I just had a BBK installed and am now suffering stalling at idle on occassions. Have added more fuel at idle PCIII and removed fuel, adjusted TB's, have checked every hose. If I get it all back together I will go down to the shop and try the above. The Knurl needs to step in here.

theknurl
07-08-2007, 11:00 PM
chris,novos and all..
been there too!
first check ALL vacuum connections..click clamps suck
on the TBs and the other end of each hose too.
left side; 2 MAP hoses, 1 to the pressure regulator and 1 to the clutch
right side; 2 IAC plastic hoses and the 2nd clutch hose. the front fitting should be capped[deflap/decanister/decheck valve ]
bypass screws, they are thereto balance the machining of the throttle plates for SMOG REASONS.
[if you have a constant vacuum source, one screw will be CLOSED [the leaky one] and the other open some amount [with all the hoses PLUGGED]]
at different times many people have had hose failures, CHECK them all, clamps too.
EVERYONE has air leaks in the rubber intake manifolds, there are socket wrench clearance cuts in the manifold under the clamp!!! degrease and fill with RTV silicone to the level of the clamp/surrounding rubber,let it cure then remount.
rotate both injectors counter clockwise with your FINGER tip, with the connector on.
while the tank is up, check the clamps on the fuel return hose.
check the manifold mounting bolts
re; page 77 of the manual, we are in MAP 2, no lambda sensing
now electrical;
LOW SYSTEM VOLTAGE WILL MAKE IT RUN LEAN, especially with a PClll when my 1st stator died, major backfiring on decel.
check the battery terminals...no lock washers[cheap bastards]
check the engine grounds[both sides of both cylinders] use dielectric grease on all electrical connections whenever you get a chance.
DO NOT USE products like Castrol Super Clean... they do exactly what they advertise... degrease, to the point every bolt/screw has galvanic corrosion.
you WILL get to remove EVERY one on the bike to clean/lube it [i know NOW, ktm duke ll]
check battery voltage, with a MULTIMETER
now do the system voltage check, running voltage, idle & 4,000 rpm
now do charging voltage check, the infamous BROWN connector @4,000 rpm > than 60 volts DC between terminals 1-2, 1-3 and 2-3.
guys this should have solved the problem..
if it didn't, pm me, list everything you checked and if that doesn't help we'll use Skype, no, i don't want to debate anyone, i've ranted in other threads about this stuff.
the most usefull tool in this situation is a lambda meter
Noel-theknurl

novos
07-08-2007, 11:35 PM
update: the stalling problem was the clutch not engaging, since the bike had been running 200+ all day, so I bled the clutch slave, and the problem went away.

My speedo sensor also died, but I found that problem was the cable got pinched or something in the swingarm pivot point, so I cut the damaged bit of wire off and soldered it together again, and got it working again.