View Full Version : Bleeding cheek

Steve 2d 2004
09-30-2004, 01:39 AM
Suffered from air ingress to clutch since purchase of Factory 11 months ago. Powerhouse has had 2 goes to clear and 2 promises to get part (No feedback on part even after reminders).
I have a left forearm arm like popeye after trying to squeeze the life outof the lever. Can't select neutral and bangs the gears up the box - if I rev the bolox to the quick shift it is OK, but looks silly at the lights just to get neutral.
I've suffered the continual nuisance and bled the clutch myself to get use of the bike and while in Eurpoe this year.
Brands Hatch Performance think they have found the problem with the actuator and requested a warranty replacement. This was refused and a new seals are to be sent.
For the price of the bike, I cannot believe I'm going to end up with a stripped down component.
"Aprilia riders stay with Aprilia" is what I'm told, if this doesn't work does anybody want to by a 2003 kitted Factory??
Must have grip like Pluto!!!

09-30-2004, 03:40 AM
had the same problem myself while in the IOM this year for the TT, the bike wouldn't shift gear and with the clutch pulled in fully it was dragging itself along - visited dedman's, the IOM prilla dealer, who charged me for fixing the problem (new seal & fluid) !!
I tried to say that this should have been done under warranty but was told to take it up with my local dealer - on doing so I was told that as they hadn't seen the problem then I would have to foot the bill....
That's what I call customer service - the guy looking after UK customer service and relations policy should be taken out and :gunner: , when will they learn that you need to flex and at least listen to get a customer to buy again.
I'm currently struggling with claims on the following:
1 melted display - looks as if the sun has tracked across it and burnt it !!
2 decals peeling on the lower fairings
3 rubber bung on the exhaust (rhs) has solidified and worn a hole thru the rhs fairing lower
4 chain catches on the exhaust pipe and is grinding it away - yes even when the dealer had also adjusted it correctly
Don't get me wrong performance wise the bike is great, it's the after service that stinks....

Otto Parts
09-30-2004, 06:28 AM
join the club!
i carry a can of putoline dot 5.1 , a small length of rubber pipe, 11mm spanner, and a cloth under the seat in case i suddenly can't downshift when i'm out.

09-30-2004, 07:33 AM
my clutch REGULARLY when I first bought my Factory....


Put the Evo Slave Cylander on there & have never looked back since....excellent fix!

plus it will help in alleviating Poppye Arm Syndrome! ;)

09-30-2004, 08:07 AM
I agree, I bought the EVO slave and put it on over a month ago...no more clutch problems. After taking the OEM unit out you can see why it sucks sooooo bad. The piston seal, and i use that term loosely, is a POS thin rubber ring. The EVO has three very sturdy looking thick O rings. No wonder it works better.

It seems that they (Aprilia) got a great chassis and motor and got the bike about 97 precent finished. They then outsourced the controls to the cheapest bidder.

So buy the EVO. It sucks shelling out more cash but putting a new OEM on or one with the crappy seal will lead to more heartache....

09-30-2004, 02:53 PM
I thought there was a fix. I fixed mine by poking a very small hole in the dust boot. I haven't had the need to bleed the clutch since. And that was 3500 miles ago.

09-30-2004, 03:18 PM
Originally posted by Dvus
I fixed mine by poking a very small hole in the dust boot.

The dustboot on the master cylinder?:confused:

09-30-2004, 03:52 PM
That would be it.

09-30-2004, 05:59 PM
how do you figure the hole in the dust boot fixed it?

09-30-2004, 08:48 PM
I believe there was a thread about it. As usual it was awhile back ago so you'll have to do a search on it. There was a bulletin from the factory about it. It did the trick.

Johnny in Oz
09-30-2004, 09:24 PM
Originally posted by Dvus
I fixed mine by poking a very small hole in the dust boot.

Me too! Well, several holes actually. Weird but true.

You have to really believe that it'll work though.;)


09-30-2004, 09:30 PM
Okay dumb question. Which one is the dust boot?

09-30-2004, 09:59 PM
I know what you mean.

It's the black rubber

10-01-2004, 06:56 AM
Thanks Dvus! Very helpful.

So you poke a hole anywhere on that thing? A small one? With a needle or what did you use?

Steve 2d 2004
10-01-2004, 07:08 AM

I'm impressed the hole in the rubber boot stops the air ingress.:peace:

buzz lightyear
10-01-2004, 09:20 AM
Use DOT 5.1 fluid the problems with the clutch fading disappear!

It has a higher boiling point than the DOT 4 that comes in it!
Worked for a few folks i know now with mille's !
Just the job on the back brake issues as well!
Give it a bash!


Otto Parts
10-01-2004, 10:07 AM
i'm using dot 5.1 and i pierced a small hole with a compass in the dust boot to not much avail. i'll think about the slave cylinder upgrade.

10-01-2004, 10:22 AM
Is this a problem on all the factorys. I have 5600 kms on mine, with no problems so far. The only thing I found, was that after riding for a couple of hours my forearm would start to cramp from pulling in the clutch. Does not happen anymore.. Should I be concerned and have the clutch looked at..:peace:

10-01-2004, 07:11 PM
Don't forget that you can adjust the internals on the master too, there is a small 7mm? bolt that touches the plunger in the master. I tightened mine just few turns and it is perfect and has been so for about 4,000 miles.

Also running 5.1.

10-04-2004, 05:21 PM
I did the same. I tightened the 7mm bolt on the master cylinder (It is th little bolt thet pushes onto the dust seal boot that you prick in the pics above)

I also pricked the boot with 4 pin pricks and re-blead the clutch. 2000km later and no issues.