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Dvus
09-19-2004, 04:18 PM
Thanks Seth!!!

Dvus
09-19-2004, 04:18 PM
the rear is installed

Dvus
09-19-2004, 05:44 PM
and the front:D

Dvus
09-19-2004, 05:45 PM
the full view

Dr. Thrillride
09-19-2004, 07:39 PM
Nice! That must have been a pretty penny (where'd you get them?). High score on the bling scale. Let us know how they behave.

scott2ride
09-19-2004, 07:41 PM
Very tastie

Im envious :D

HixX
09-20-2004, 02:23 AM
Originally posted by Dr. Thrillride
Nice! That must have been a pretty penny (where'd you get them?). High score on the bling scale. Let us know how they behave.

You can get em through RSVR.net or whatever its called now.

cman6453
09-20-2004, 08:27 AM
You can also get 'em here at AF1's store... Looks good DVUS!!!!

buckmaster
09-20-2004, 08:51 AM
They are also avialable from brake tech direct,I run them on my R1 & love them they are full floaters.Dont buy iron,they rust w/morning dew

Dvus
09-20-2004, 09:04 AM
That's the one I have the Iron rotors. The rust shouldn't be too much of a problem. Should it?

stinky
09-20-2004, 09:24 AM
I got mine (also iron) from AF1 here on the forum. I've had them for a couple months, and the only time there's been any rust on them is from getting caught out in a thunderstorm - and even then, the coating (the black stuff that comes off the pad track) kept them from rusting anywhere besides the pad track. After using the brakes a few times, no more rust.

Keep in mind that my bike stays covered at night, though. Dew might make for some rust accumulation if your bike sits outside.

buckmaster
09-20-2004, 09:51 AM
its more of a pain than anything,even washing it .dry off the rotors or ride it.They work better than stainless just harder to take care of.

Dvus
09-20-2004, 10:15 AM
Yeah that's easy to do I guess. I like having clean rotors after I ride. I'm pretty particular about having clean rotors every time I ride. Although having iron rotors in the pacific northwest seems to be quite a crazy thing, but hey can't pass up a good deal.:D

mossback
09-20-2004, 11:16 AM
Nice Dvus.

I hear you have a new bike too...

bastard :)

lunchbox
09-20-2004, 11:31 AM
Originally posted by Dvus
Thanks Seth!!!


No prob dude:D they look better on your bike anyways.

Dvus
09-20-2004, 12:04 PM
Originally posted by mossback
Nice Dvus.

I hear you have a new bike too...

bastard :) Buwahahaha http://www.cycleforums.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=123424

check it out:D

lunchbox
09-20-2004, 02:17 PM
post a pic of it on here please

20Hz
09-20-2004, 02:42 PM
I have iron rotors and it's no biggie with the rain. You do want to clean them off after a wet ride, but the first time you use them the rust goes away anyway :) Of course then you have to clean the rust dust off your rims but that just gives you an excuse to make your wheels all nice and clean!

btw Did you buy some new pads to go with them? you want to use organic pads with iron, not sintered (which is what we have stock, i believe)

Dvus
09-20-2004, 03:20 PM
what will sintered do to the rotors. I have the pads that were recommended by brake tech. The ferodos

stinky
09-20-2004, 03:44 PM
Ferodo, very proud of their cryogenically treated, billet-like ductile iron manufacturing process, (almost) recommends sintered pads with the BrakeTech Axis Ductile Iron rotors by saying, in so many words, that their recommendation against sintered pads is simple prudence due to their competitors' iron not being as strong as theirs. They go so far as to say they've dyno tested the SinterGrip pads with the DI rotors and haven't found any issues, but due to the litigious climate, blah blah...

Check it here: http://www.braketech.com/tech/sintered.html

DRT-Tuning
09-20-2004, 06:24 PM
Looks the business. And wow, rear floating disc.

Is the rear full or semi floating?

stinky
09-20-2004, 06:42 PM
It's also full-floating.

20Hz
09-20-2004, 06:52 PM
Originally posted by stinky
Ferodo, very proud of their cryogenically treated, billet-like ductile iron manufacturing process, (almost) recommends sintered pads with the BrakeTech Axis Ductile Iron rotors by saying, in so many words, that their recommendation against sintered pads is simple prudence due to their competitors' iron not being as strong as theirs. They go so far as to say they've dyno tested the SinterGrip pads with the DI rotors and haven't found any issues, but due to the litigious climate, blah blah...

Check it here: http://www.braketech.com/tech/sintered.html

cool. Obviously they know more about it than I do :peace:

stinky
09-20-2004, 08:42 PM
...and the stock pads are sintered. :)

r100gs
09-20-2004, 10:01 PM
I have a pair of Speigler iron rotors with sintered pads, CL SBK-3, which Speigler recommended when I bought them. I questioned their recommendation also, but iron rotors have came along way since the old iron rotors. All can say is, my brakes work like they should.;)

Dvus
09-21-2004, 12:20 AM
Well since the rotors and pads were used slightly and I had no idea which of the 8 pads were going where, I bed them in for about 45 min. Made lots of runs from 40 mph and slowing to 20mph did that about 5 times then progressively got faster and braked longer and harder. The braking got better and better. It will still get better since the contact area wasn't all touched just yet. They feel weird when I brake hard and almost to a complete stop. Feels like warped rotors. I guess that's the full floaters I need to get used too.

mossback
09-21-2004, 02:25 AM
Do they make the front end judder at nearly stop?

Dvus
09-21-2004, 09:06 AM
It's weird. I can feel the vibration, but the tire feels solidly on the road.

mossback
09-21-2004, 10:14 AM
Sintered pads? Your stock or Seths Ferodo pads? I have the same thing only happens when the pads are cold, once hot they don't do it. It's like they stick and release rapidily, at first I thought something was loose (check that) and needed tightening. Everything is OK in that area but I can reproduce the judder very easily by just doing a firm stop and it will judder the last few feet or inches before total stop.

Dvus
09-21-2004, 10:16 AM
That's what I'm using the Ferodo pads. It was ackward.

mossback
09-21-2004, 10:24 AM
I am using the Ferodo sintered XR pads on stock rotors. You are using them on DI rotors but are getting the same feeling in the front as I am? Could be that the that is trait of the XR pads when cold. 20hz? What pad you running? The organics? or Sintered?

buckmaster
09-21-2004, 10:53 AM
the feeling of full floaters is kinda weird @ first ,they also got a particular sound to them till their centered.kinda sound like a muffled dove.these are a fantastic mod.

scott2ride
09-21-2004, 09:47 PM
A muffled Dove?????

I know the Aussies like to muffle their sheep to silence the sad bleeting... But Doves!:p:

stinky
09-21-2004, 10:00 PM
So..what? You kiwis just let 'em bleet?

scott2ride
09-21-2004, 11:24 PM
Hell yes. I love it when they cry out my name.

scott2ride
09-21-2004, 11:27 PM
Now Stinky...

I checked the PC3 connection and it works, and the throttle position sensor readings change when I twist it.

But what I discovered is it was not set for my bike. o% was reading -2 and 100% was reading 85%. So I think that will have effected things a tad. Will see this weekend.

20Hz
09-21-2004, 11:31 PM
I'm running the Ferodo Platinums (organic) with full floating DI rotors. The feel is and has always been fantastic. Both trackdays I did with them the pads felt the same after 10 laps in a row as they do on a normal street ride :D I'm not sure what could be causing the weirdness in yours, Dom, except for the pads not being bedded in properly, even though it sounds like you did it the right way. But using used pads...I don't know. Full Floating rotors shouldn't feel weird or shuddery, imo, just the opposite. Dunno what's going on with that. I'd put new pads in. I'd recommend the platinums but it looks like AF1 doesn't have them for the 04 RSVR... maybe a new set of XRs?

good luck. I think once you get it sorted you'll be blown away by the increase in power and feel

hank
09-22-2004, 07:21 AM
Is it worth having a full-floating rear brake?

I only ask because I am upgrading to full floating (probably Brake Techs) up front and although I do actually use the rear in certain situations, perhaps the extra cost isn't worth it.

Any opinions?

Merto
09-22-2004, 08:19 AM
Originally posted by hank
Is it worth having a full-floating rear brake?

I only ask because I am upgrading to full floating (probably Brake Techs) up front and although I do actually use the rear in certain situations, perhaps the extra cost isn't worth it.

Any opinions?

I wouldnt bother with FF on the rear. I have always put braided hoses on my bikes but never on the rear. I dont see any benefit other than bling factor.

buckmaster
09-22-2004, 08:45 AM
I wouldnt spend the money on a floater for the rear,if any thing get a stocker lightend

stinky
09-22-2004, 09:28 AM
I'll probably wind up with the Brake Tech rear at some point, but only for the bling factor.

FWIW, I don't get any shudder at all with my Brake Tech fronts/XR pads - I did with the stock rotors and pads, but I'm pretty sure it was due to some pad material built up on the rotors.

Scotty, I agree, -2% to 85% will probably have some effect on how she runs.

Dvus
09-22-2004, 10:07 AM
I was looking at the instructions. It said to use the stock pads to take the black coating off the rotors. There are still some black coating on there. I think it's just the build up on that . Once I use it more it should be fine. Now if I can only have the time to take her out on a good ride.

stinky
09-22-2004, 01:18 PM
I did use the stock pads to wear the coating off - took a couple trips to the twisties because I don't use my bike to commute (hence not a lot of stop & go) and I don't normally use the brakes that much in the twisties.

The stock pads didn't look too dirty when I took 'em off, though the pad track was all grey.

stinky
09-22-2004, 01:58 PM
It's the thing you use to keep the bike from rolling when stopped on a hill.

Dvus
09-22-2004, 02:05 PM
Originally posted by stinky
I did use the stock pads to wear the coating off - took a couple trips to the twisties because I don't use my bike to commute (hence not a lot of stop & go) and I don't normally use the brakes that much in the twisties.

The stock pads didn't look too dirty when I took 'em off, though the pad track was all grey. Right on. Next time you should go faster than the speed limit if you ever want to use your brakes. I know it's difficult to do so, but remember the bike can do more than what you think your abilities are at. Just try increasing some speed and use the brakes to slow you down prior to entry or even trail brake to the apex. You'll get the courage:D


Originally posted by Fastttt
What's a "rear brake"???

It is the lever to help settle the chasis when you don't have to slow down too much. Helps to maintain a perfect line through the apex.

Oh don't forget it's the super bling bling on my bike that rattles like a floater.

stinky
09-22-2004, 05:05 PM
Originally posted by Dvus
Right on. Next time you should go faster than the speed limit if you ever want to use your brakes. I know it's difficult to do so, but remember the bike can do more than what you think your abilities are at. Just try increasing some speed and use the brakes to slow you down prior to entry or even trail brake to the apex. You'll get the courage


How can I go faster than the speed limiter? Why would I want to slow down? :D

Dvus
09-24-2004, 08:42 AM
THinking about the shuddering problem with both my bike and mossbacks. One other thing I found we have in common is that the pre load is really really soft. I have 7 lines including the very top showing. I'd have to turn in some preload to actually feel the difference. What you all think. Soft preload can cause more feel to hard braking? A shuddering feeling?

Merto
09-24-2004, 09:36 AM
Originally posted by Dvus
THinking about the shuddering problem with both my bike and mossbacks. One other thing I found we have in common is that the pre load is really really soft. I have 7 lines including the very top showing. I'd have to turn in some preload to actually feel the difference. What you all think. Soft preload can cause more feel to hard braking? A shuddering feeling?

If your pre load is soft it will affect the handling in all sorts of ways. Make sure your loaded sag (pre load) is set properly and then I would check tyre condition and pressure and head bearing adjustment before touching other suspension settings. If they are ok then it may be that your compression damping is too hard but you would probably notice other symptoms like a harsh ride, especially on bumpy surfaces and you may run a little wide in the corners.

If you have only noticed the difference since the new pads and disks then it is probably from there. Especially if you fitted used pads in a different sequence, they will take longer than normal to (re) bed in.

mossback
09-24-2004, 01:40 PM
I got this reply from BrakeTech on the brake shudder:

What you are describing sounds very much like the slip/stick phenomenon which can be caused by either an uneven deposition layer during brake pad bed-in or a slightly distorted rotor. Assuming there are not issues of improper piston retraction within the caliper or other alignment related problems, would recommend measuring out the rotors to determine run-out. If within spec, try Rotor-Honing again along with resurfacing the friction face of the brake pads and re-bed.

Regards,

Jeff


--
Jeff Gehrs
BrakeTech USA, Inc.
Ph: 951-471-3476
Fax: 951-471-3536
www.braketech.com

Dvus
09-27-2004, 10:29 PM
I think these are some warped rotors. What's funny is I tried the ferodo pads and the brembo pads. Still happens. during 60mph stops the bike shuders at near 45mph stops and comes back again at around 29Mph to full stop. Only when I Brake hard. If I brake slightly I can feel it less violently. Do brake tech sell just the rotors and buttons.

So fucking pissed!!!!

mossback
09-27-2004, 11:42 PM
Go to there website and you can talk to them via phone or email.

I did. Maybe they can give you some tests to do. Did you read my post from them about the stick-slip phenom?

Mine only shudder at low speed hard braking.

Merto
09-28-2004, 12:22 AM
Originally posted by Dvus
I think these are some warped rotors. What's funny is I tried the ferodo pads and the brembo pads. Still happens. during 60mph stops the bike shuders at near 45mph stops and comes back again at around 29Mph to full stop. Only when I Brake hard. If I brake slightly I can feel it less violently. Do brake tech sell just the rotors and buttons.

So fucking pissed!!!!

You could try loosening the calipers and pull the brake progressively harder whilst rotating the wheel forward (or rolling the bike forward) until the brakes are fully on and you cant turn the wheel any more. Keep the brake fully applied and re tighten the caliper bolts. This should ensure that the calipers are aligned. Something to eliminate anyway......

Exdukenut
09-28-2004, 01:41 AM
Just to say that I've been running Brembo full floaters on both an old Ducati (Ductile Iron) for at least 12 years, and for almost 3 years, a set of SS ones on my Falco, and have to say that at road speeds, (less than 40kph on full stopping power) yes I get some shudder from the rotors. Not a huge amount, but definately noticeable.

I have yet to get any shudder on a track on either rotors DI or SS, EVER. This is where they were made for!

I think you'll find that they just need lots of heat in the rotors & pads to work properly.

Just my 2 cents worth. And I also doubt very much that they are warped! It's just the design of them.

:cool:

Dvus
09-28-2004, 04:43 PM
I called them and they said to sand the rotors and pads to bare metal with 120 grit sand paper and try to re bed the pads in. Otherwise if it continues to send the rotors in to brake tech for their inspection.

scott2ride
09-28-2004, 04:48 PM
I have never yet seen any rotor that has warped. Often people think they are warped and even the "experts" (Some guy in a brake shop) say they are warped.

But you can bet that the problem is an uneven build up on the brake surface. They need a good clean and scrape.

Dvus
09-28-2004, 08:54 PM
Yeah I could be tripping cause I haven't had the time to ride due to painting this house with brushes and rollers by myself. Finally got a little help today. My brother showed up and knocked some of this trim out for me while I was at work. Good looking out! Anyways. Yeah I need to clean these up cause I didn't feel a wobble more or less the sticking feeling of the rotors I guess. We'll see once I'm done with the house and then I can concentrate on the bike. Fucking house work!

Aprilia94
09-29-2004, 12:56 PM
I have to add to that...I run the braketech new axis iron stuff Front and Rear. The first couple of laps I get some shudder too until the rotors and pads heat up. They only work right when up to temperature and I doubt you can ever achieve that on the street if indeed that's where you are using them. I haven't read all 4 pages of posts...chances are you are using the racing pads too and that makes it double important to realize they will not work their best until up to temp. Once my stuff is up to temp I have no problems and the brakes work PHENOMENAL. They are simply BAD-ASS...and yes, I had to purchase them.