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ziser77
03-04-2019, 11:26 AM
Hello all Ape gurus I have 2017 RSV4RR 10K kilometers
I have power/acceleration cut offs. When I'm opening throttle slowly and progressively so no drama but if I'm opening it aggressive then it cuts off the power ...close and open slowly and it works fine. Sometimes it cutoffs power and turns it back on and cuts againin cycle of aprox 0.5 seconds and the ride is really jerky and dangerous if I'm holding the throttle and not releasing it. Tried to test do wheelie also same sh... ATC and AWC are off ABS off. Tied my side stand thought that it caused the issue also no luck. Checked gas lines and all are connected. Recently battery was discharged and I charged it back to normal. Also replaced front speed sensor since it was faulty prior to this find I was troubleshooting and checked all connectors .
Any suggestions?

rsnet
03-04-2019, 03:29 PM
Re perform the wheel calibration

ziser77
03-04-2019, 03:34 PM
done,
Nothing, still behaves the same :(

plocky
03-04-2019, 04:27 PM
Faulty quickshifter. Try disconnecting it & see if same happens.

ziser77
03-04-2019, 06:38 PM
Hi plocky
By disconnecting you mean just to unplug it ?
It worked fine up and down :( no issues
will it throw a fault to the dashboard ? Or should I see some error code at least ? I read and didn't see any error messages

Thank you

motoracerx
03-04-2019, 06:58 PM
Gawd knows i'm no expert, but sounds like a similar problem i had on my '16. Ended up being REAR wheel sensor was not properly 'gapped'. Added a shim if im not mistaken.

ziser77
03-04-2019, 07:39 PM
Thanks
Dud you got any errors or indicators on the dashboard?

motoracerx
03-04-2019, 08:41 PM
Thanks
Dud you got any errors or indicators on the dashboard?

Here's the thread that got me going in the right direction. Had flashing yellow lights as far as i can recall.

https://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/showthread.php?342493-Throttle-cutting-traction-control

ziser77
03-04-2019, 10:39 PM
No, nothing like this. Just cutoffs the power. No warnings, no lights, no errors. :(

plocky
03-05-2019, 12:13 AM
Hi plocky
By disconnecting you mean just to unplug it ?
It worked fine up and down :( no issues
will it throw a fault to the dashboard ? Or should I see some error code at least ? I read and didn't see any error messages

Thank you
yeah unplug it, you may get an error, but you shouldn't get any power cuts while riding the bike to test, if that's what is causing it.

There were several people here that had faulty QS sensors on 17's, with many different symptoms.
They worked but not as expected & caused some power cut/surging issues IIRC.
Most were replaced under warranty.

Quick google shows this is probably your issue.
Strange Surging/QS issue? '17 RR - Aprilia Forum
https://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/showthread.php?345711-Strange...QS...17-RR (https://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/showthread.php?345711-Strange-Surging-QS-issue-17-RR)







Aug 26, 2018 - I then disconnected the quick shift sensor and the bike rode fine just with ... Mine was not from a drop or damage though, just a faulty quick shift sensor that was covered under warranty. ... I took apart my old QS sensor and found corrosion around the ... By Jay Cowan in forum 2010-2019 RSV4 - All Variants.2017 v4 factory Qs/autoblipper not working (https://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/showthread.php?346716-2017-v4-factory-Qs-autoblipper-not-working)
6 Oct 2018

QuickShifter/Blipper fault on Tuono '17 - Anyone had these ... (https://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/showthread.php?335666-QuickShifter-Blipper-fault-on-Tuono-17-Anyone-had-these-problems)
13 Aug 2017

ziser77
03-05-2019, 02:15 AM
yeah unplug it, you may get an error, but you shouldn't get any power cuts while riding the bike to test, if that's what is causing it.

There were several people here that had faulty QS sensors on 17's, with many different symptoms.
They worked but not as expected & caused some power cut/surging issues IIRC.
Most were replaced under warranty.

Quick google shows this is probably your issue.
Strange Surging/QS issue? '17 RR - Aprilia Forum
https://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/showthread.php?345711-Strange...QS...17-RR (https://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/showthread.php?345711-Strange-Surging-QS-issue-17-RR)







Aug 26, 2018 - I then disconnected the quick shift sensor and the bike rode fine just with ... Mine was not from a drop or damage though, just a faulty quick shift sensor that was covered under warranty. ... I took apart my old QS sensor and found corrosion around the ... By Jay Cowan in forum 2010-2019 RSV4 - All Variants.2017 v4 factory Qs/autoblipper not working (https://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/showthread.php?346716-2017-v4-factory-Qs-autoblipper-not-working)
6 Oct 2018

QuickShifter/Blipper fault on Tuono '17 - Anyone had these ... (https://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/showthread.php?335666-QuickShifter-Blipper-fault-on-Tuono-17-Anyone-had-these-problems)
13 Aug 2017






Can I just disable it via dashboard or just physical disconnect it?

ziser77
03-05-2019, 02:19 AM
Plocky
But my quick shifter works fine and this issue only happens if I open the throttle fast , If I operate it smoothly and slowly then there is no problems.
But any way I'll try to disconnect the QS.
Thank you

plocky
03-05-2019, 02:22 AM
Can I just disable it via dashboard or just physical disconnect it?
Apparently the '17+ QS can be disabled in the dashboard, maybe worth a try, if that doesn't fix it, disconnect it to eliminate it's signals to the ECU.
In those threads I see at least one disabled QS & at least one disconnected it to troubleshoot the issue.
There should be a connector for it just up under the tank at the back of the air box.

Do you still have warranty? If so; get the dealer to fix it.

motoracerx
03-05-2019, 06:24 AM
Put the bike on stands. Throttle up and bang thru the gears and see if bike acts up.

ziser77
03-05-2019, 11:03 AM
Put the bike on stands. Throttle up and bang thru the gears and see if bike acts up.

This is slightly unsafe , it only happens on second gear at 9~10 kRPM
It safer just to take bike for the ride and the sensors won't be confused

tuto
03-05-2019, 11:21 AM
No, nothing like this. Just cutoffs the power. No warnings, no lights, no errors. :(

Did you move up the fuel tank recently ?
Check the fuel hose. Sometimes it can be pressed or too much bent under the tank canal.
I had the same issue. Exactly the same. Also the fuel can get too hot but that is another story. Anyway is form the fueling.
Hope it works

motoracerx
03-05-2019, 11:36 AM
This is slightly unsafe , it only happens on second gear at 9~10 kRPM
It safer just to take bike for the ride and the sensors won't be confused
Not sure how that is unsafe but umkay

ziser77
03-05-2019, 12:11 PM
Did you move up the fuel tank recently ?
Check the fuel hose. Sometimes it can be pressed or too much bent under the tank canal.
I had the same issue. Exactly the same. Also the fuel can get too hot but that is another story. Anyway is form the fueling.
Hope it works

Checked all hoses for bent or pinching
All is clear

tuto
03-05-2019, 01:00 PM
The fuel pump. Is ok?
Maybe you loose some v overthere

ziser77
03-05-2019, 01:14 PM
The fuel pump. Is ok?
Maybe you loose some v overthere
The fuel pump work it supplies constant flow?
Do you know how to troubleshoot it?

motoracerx
03-05-2019, 01:40 PM
Rear Wheel sensor

Let me elaborate....Put it on the stands 'GENTLY' bang on thru the gears since it is so unsafe, and see if it cuts out. If it doesn't, front wheel sensor sounds to be suspect since the front isn't spinning.

Your descriptions of events sounds a lot like mine. The bike felt like riding an atv over 12" rocks at 20 mph.

With you sitting on the bike while on stands, thats at least 600lbs sitting on the stand. Where can it go? I thought everybody has done that in their motorcycle careers.

ziser77
03-05-2019, 03:11 PM
Rear Wheel sensor

Let me elaborate....Put it on the stands 'GENTLY' bang on thru the gears since it is so unsafe, and see if it cuts out. If it doesn't, front wheel sensor sounds to be suspect since the front isn't spinning.

Your descriptions of events sounds a lot like mine. The bike felt like riding an atv over 12" rocks at 20 mph.

With you sitting on the bike while on stands, thats at least 600lbs sitting on the stand. Where can it go? I thought everybody has done that in their motorcycle careers.

Thank you for your help and input
The problem only appears after 10000 rpm on 2nd and 3 gear the wheel will spin very fast
But if you are saying just to run it at low speed and eliminate the front sensor issue then it's a different story.
I can do this.
I'll keep updating on the findings.
Thanks

rsnet
03-05-2019, 03:14 PM
Ziser, sorry i answered quick and from the cough.

but maybe, tell us what TC and wheelie setting do you have, as I now re read your original post’ of how with progressive throttle all is good, but yank a handful and all hell let’s go on the dash board and the motor cries out, maybe ....

motoracerx
03-05-2019, 03:58 PM
Thank you for your help and input
The problem only appears after 10000 rpm on 2nd and 3 gear the wheel will spin very fast
But if you are saying just to run it at low speed and eliminate the front sensor issue then it's a different story.
I can do this.
I'll keep updating on the findings.
Thanks

And the other advantage of it being on stands is you'll be able to monitor the dash and pay attention to what's going on instead of trying to not kill yourself on the street. Just my non-expert thoughts. Hope you figure it out. Probably something silly and simple.

ziser77
03-05-2019, 05:17 PM
And the other advantage of it being on stands is you'll be able to monitor the dash and pay attention to what's going on instead of trying to not kill yourself on the street. Just my non-expert thoughts. Hope you figure it out. Probably something silly and simple.

I watched the video from the track day that it happened and there was no indication of failure or TC turned on or anything,
I got some tip that since there was a low battery it might compromised a Throttle handle and it need to be re-learned

ziser77
03-05-2019, 05:24 PM
Ziser, sorry i answered quick and from the cough.

but maybe, tell us what TC and wheelie setting do you have, as I now re read your original post’ of how with progressive throttle all is good, but yank a handful and all hell let’s go on the dash board and the motor cries out, maybe ....


So I turned off everything ABC, ATC, AWC, all was off
When I'm opening throttle slowly and not 100% the bike accelerates OK, slow but OK no issues
but if I'm trying to open 100% then it's loses power (like I'm closing the throttle) if I releasing the throttle and opening slowly again then it behaves fine,
but if I'm holding it and not releasing the throttle it it starts jumping on the power, ON and OFF in intervals of aprox 0.5 sec like roller coaster
:(

Ed / AF1 Racing
03-05-2019, 06:06 PM
what's the history on the this bike? has it always done this behavior? airbox ever been off? Who has taken it apart before? all stock? pipe? mapping? stock rearsets? stock shifting pattern?

plocky
03-05-2019, 06:22 PM
...............................
I got some tip that since there was a low battery it might compromised a Throttle handle and it need to be re-learned
Low battery can cause temporary issues with sensors & cause CAN line errors. Once battery is restored to health everything should return to normal.

The Throttle Handle (twist grip), has an integrated demand sensor inside on '17 plus, the Handle self learning procedure sets the zero Handle (twist grip) position voltage in the ECU so the ECU knows where zero twist grip position starts.
This is memorised in the ECU & is only reset when the Twist Grip is replaced (demand sensor replaced for older models), ECU is changed, a new map is flashed to the ECU or the command is given to the ECU via PADS or GuzziDiag to Reset Auto Learned Parameters.

So it's unlikely that it has changed.
Having said all that; it does not hurt anything to do Handle Self Learning & Throttle Self learning (read Throttle body self acquisition), as many times as you like.
The later is performed automatically at every key on if you wait 10 seconds before pressing starter button or can be done with PADS or IAW/Guzzidiag.
Handle Self learning can be done with PADS or IAW/Guzzidiag, takes a couple of mouse clicks after cables & connection established.

ziser77
03-05-2019, 06:47 PM
what's the history on the this bike? has it always done this behavior? airbox ever been off? Who has taken it apart before? all stock? pipe? mapping? stock rearsets? stock shifting pattern?
I just bough this bike from auction so no history, but the bike was working perfectly except the speed sensor that I damaged and replaced so everything went to normal. it was riding good.
i switched it to woodcraft GP shift, rearsets are stock ,

ziser77
03-05-2019, 06:53 PM
Low battery can cause temporary issues with sensors & cause CAN line errors. Once battery is restored to health everything should return to normal.

The Throttle Handle (twist grip), has an integrated demand sensor inside on '17 plus, the Handle self learning procedure sets the zero Handle (twist grip) position voltage in the ECU so the ECU knows where zero twist grip position starts.
This is memorised in the ECU & is only reset when the Twist Grip is replaced (demand sensor replaced for older models), ECU is changed, a new map is flashed to the ECU or the command is given to the ECU via PADS or GuzziDiag to Reset Auto Learned Parameters.


So it's unlikely that it has changed.
Having said all that; it does not hurt anything to do Handle Self Learning & Throttle Self learning (read Throttle body self acquisition), as many times as you like.
The later is performed automatically at every key on if you wait 10 seconds before pressing starter button or can be done with PADS or IAW/Guzzidiag.
Handle Self learning can be done with PADS or IAW/Guzzidiag, takes a couple of mouse clicks after cables & connection established.


OK,
1. Disable the QS and try it out and see the results
2. Perform Throttle grip and throttle bodies self learning.

what else I can do ?
Maybe check the Injector Relay since the upper injectors are responsible for the high revs?

what else ?


Thank you guys for your help and support I really appreciate it

Ed / AF1 Racing
03-05-2019, 06:53 PM
post up pics of your GP shift setup...most likely you are triggering the QS by a bad installation. Like others said early on, look at the QS sensor and the linkages.

motoracerx
03-05-2019, 08:42 PM
If the linkage looks like this, something is wrong. This happened a few wks ago at the track. Have no idea what the hell happened.
Only thing i can think is i smashed the shifter when i slammed it into a corner and may have hit the curbing?

Bike went nuts as i free wheeled thru 130 mph esses.

-the threaded rod is just hanging there for the picture. it was threaded in and the shifter was behind the footpeg with no other damage other than the threaded stud.

ziser77
03-05-2019, 08:48 PM
376222

ziser77
03-05-2019, 08:50 PM
Everything is standard
That is the thing the bike was working perfectly and now this issue ....

motoracerx
03-05-2019, 09:15 PM
Threw my neck out looking at that pic. :)

ziser77
03-05-2019, 10:28 PM
Sorry dude, didn't meant to
376226

ziser77
03-05-2019, 10:29 PM
This is what I found.
Can determine which are new and which are old ones :(
The speed sensor was replaced a while ago

plocky
03-05-2019, 11:51 PM
Holy crap there is a lot going on there, cant say what order they are stored in.

Some of these faults could be from low battery, others could be from when your speed sensor was broken.
Some could be from previous owner issues that have not been cleared. Possibly caused just by having things unplugged & turning ignition on.

At least you have a start, clear the faults & see what comes back.
I still think it's a faulty QS sensor problem.


P0501 Front wheel speed sensor/signal
*U0125 Sensor box CAN line diagnosis - this can happen if ignition is switched on while tank is off & IMU is disconnected.
*P0230 Fuel pump relay control
*P0615 Starting relay
*P0704 - Clutch switch
*U0140 CAN to instrument panel communication
*U1129 - LH handlebar CAN line diagnosis
*U0121 CAN line to ABS control unit

All those with an * will have either a flashing or steady warning light. The U0121 will light the MIL (malfunction indicator lamp AKA check engine light)

EDIT; Also those shifter linkage angles look to be ok to me, unlike the ones on motoracerx bike, holy shit that's got to be hard to change gear, lol.;)

ziser77
03-06-2019, 12:27 AM
No lights or anything
I'll clear the errors and run the bike.
Done throttle learning and throttle body learn

CIAO 70
03-06-2019, 01:17 AM
Bike went nuts as i free wheeled thru 130 mph esses.


Bet that was fun!

:D

ziser77
03-06-2019, 05:33 PM
Still have bad weather for test run :(

tuto
03-07-2019, 10:02 AM
Did you check the fuel pump?
Dirt?

ziser77
03-07-2019, 11:13 AM
Did you check the fuel pump?
Dirt?

Hi,
Fuel pump was recently cleaned and reinstalled , bike was working perfectly a weekend before. It revs OK to high RPMs when it's on the stands and not moving.

motoracerx
03-07-2019, 12:04 PM
Hi,
Fuel pump was recently cleaned and reinstalled , bike was working perfectly a weekend before. It revs OK to high RPMs when it's on the stands and not moving.

Are you banging through the gears on the stands?

Ed / AF1 Racing
03-07-2019, 12:47 PM
was the fuel pump messed with trying to solve this issue or just before?

again, has anyone taken off the airbox? who is doing all this work? Who messed with it when the problems started?

We have seen a few people mix up the connectors on the top injectors. Probably runs ok in certain situations, and would choke in others.

ziser77
03-07-2019, 12:51 PM
Are you banging through the gears on the stands?

no just reving it up

ziser77
03-07-2019, 01:06 PM
was the fuel pump messed with trying to solve this issue or just before?

again, has anyone taken off the airbox? who is doing all this work? Who messed with it when the problems started?

We have seen a few people mix up the connectors on the top injectors. Probably runs ok in certain situations, and would choke in others.

Hi Ed,
So there were no issues before this weekend
It was working fine a weekend before, didn't touched neither injectors or messed with fuel lines or anything, I swapped to GP style and that is all that I did on the bike since last weekend.
Now when I noticed this issue
I looked into fuel lines and opened Air box for inspection, checked vacuum lines, and checked injector lines if they pinched or have marks of contact with gas tank.
Weather today is fine and I hope that road will dry out since I'm on the slicks.
I did throttle and handle learning also tested actuators via IAWdiag for injectors and fuel pump, cleared all old errors and will try to push the bike through the gear and provide test results ASAP
Thank you for your support

motoracerx
03-07-2019, 04:02 PM
no just reving it up

why? High revs without a load on the motor is never a good thing.

ziser77
03-07-2019, 04:45 PM
why? High revs without a load on the motor is never a good thing.

I know that, it was for very short just to see WTF ?! :(

ziser77
03-07-2019, 08:06 PM
Few updates
Did few test runs with qs disabled and turned off
In general no issues, there were few dips/holes for a fraction of a second between 10k and 11k but much better.
What is the best way to clean/purge injectors?

plocky
03-08-2019, 12:25 AM
Few updates
Did few test runs with qs disabled and turned off
In general no issues, there were few dips/holes for a fraction of a second between 10k and 11k but much better.
What is the best way to clean/purge injectors?
So then it maybe the QS causing the big issue. Acid test would be to reconnect & enable it, see if the problem returns.

Also you may want to pull the QS apart & see if there is corrosion inside.

For cleaning injectors, maybe some seafoam in the fuel. IDK, I never have to clean mine in 18,000 km.

Pro69ss
03-08-2019, 07:18 AM
I think itís the quick shift too . I would switch the shifter back to stock and see .
Could just be slightly out of adjustment or got damaged in the swap .

If itís just slightly out of adjustment and you roll on throttle without ill effects and if you snap the throttle the vibrations are different and could cause issues.

Iíd swap and see !
The injectors are Not the problem !

tuto
03-08-2019, 10:50 AM
Injectors are not an issue that correct. I think the pump dont get enough power at high rpm. I think is either the battery either the coenctors or fuel hoses. The qs has different symptoms. Like tc

ziser77
03-08-2019, 01:02 PM
Thanks for info
It's raining again. So as soon as the weather gets better I'll test run with QS enabled and see the results. I was turning on and off upper injectors via IAW Diag since they are in use less then a lower once and the pump as well maybe this did the trick. I think it might be dirty since bike was sitting outside in the yard for a while and gas tank was cracked so it was contaminated with dust I assume.
Next step
Run with QS ON , if ride is the same then Injectors if not then QS damaged.
I'll keep updating.

ziser77
03-08-2019, 03:06 PM
People what do you think about swapping fuel pump filter?

rsnet
03-08-2019, 03:24 PM
Thanks for info
It's raining again. So as soon as the weather gets better I'll test run with QS enabled and see the results. I was turning on and off upper injectors via IAW Diag since they are in use less then a lower once and the pump as well maybe this did the trick. I think it might be dirty since bike was sitting outside in the yard for a while and gas tank was cracked so it was contaminated with dust I assume.
Next step
Run with QS ON , if ride is the same then Injectors if not then QS damaged.
I'll keep updating.

Christ, this is why I don’t chime in very often, four pages later and we find out this 2017 has sat outside for a while with a cracked tank, so hows the tank cracked, shite fuel inside etc..

i’ll Stick to the racing section

i chimed in but I’m chipping out

but good luck getting it sorted, the seasons about to start

motoracerx
03-08-2019, 03:43 PM
Christ, this is why I don’t chime in very often, four pages later and we find out this 2017 has sat outside for a while with a cracked tank, so hows the tank cracked, shite fuel inside etc..

i’ll Stick to the racing section

i chimed in but I’m chipping out

but good luck getting it sorted, the seasons about to start

It's a salvage bike I believe.

ziser77
03-08-2019, 06:38 PM
The tank is new and pump was cleaned.
Again bike was running fine before last weekend. I'm just thinking about any possible cause.

ziser77
03-08-2019, 08:08 PM
The tank is new and pump was cleaned.
Again bike was running fine before last weekend. I'm just thinking about any possible cause.

ziser77
03-10-2019, 08:50 PM
Hi all
So I performed throttle body and handle learning, also initialized all injectors and fuel pump as well.
Problem went away, I hope for good.
Thanks everyone for supporting

CIAO 70
03-10-2019, 09:31 PM
Hi all
So I performed throttle body and handle learning, also initialized all injectors and fuel pump as well.
Problem went away, I hope for good.
Thanks everyone for supporting

So I guess it wasn't a quick shifter issue after all?

Glad you got it sorted and hope it doesn't come back again.

ziser77
03-10-2019, 09:41 PM
Yeah it was very weird, it works fine then issues then you touch here and disconnect and reconnect there , and it works....
This bike have character

CIAO 70
03-10-2019, 10:40 PM
That's one way to put it ;)

tuto
03-11-2019, 09:54 AM
It was fule pump for sure

ziser77
04-29-2019, 09:26 PM
Hello again.
Looks like problem was not solved.
So my mechanic cleaned both injectors and checked the fuel pump for output pressure all is good and working....but I took the test ride and bike was pulling very hard and I drove home.then at the track this crap started to happen again.
So I called the dealership for warranty and they they said that Since I have SC project exhaust I should perform valve clearance adjustments since the SC project exhaust is not supplying enough back pressure so the intervals for the valve's adjustment need to shorter.
I don't know if I should believe that.

ziser77
05-02-2019, 10:02 PM
Any thoughts?

SlamDunK
05-02-2019, 10:16 PM
Did you ask them to explain how it can be a valve issue when it's an intermittent fault?
Other than that, do you have guzzidiag and cables?
Maybe you can spot an errant reading even if it's not triggering a fault code.
For instance, injectors, map sensors etc.
Dodgy fuel?
aprc interfering?
Shooting in the dark but it's all worth looking into.

ziser77
05-04-2019, 12:11 AM
Did you ask them to explain how it can be a valve issue when it's an intermittent fault?
Other than that, do you have guzzidiag and cables?
Maybe you can spot an errant reading even if it's not triggering a fault code.
For instance, injectors, map sensors etc.
Dodgy fuel?
aprc interfering?
Shooting in the dark but it's all worth looking into.

Thank you for your response

1. Yes I do have diagnostic cables, no issues or errors detected.
2. Injectrors, fuel lines and pump are all clean and tested.
3. Map is also matching the exhaust
4. Fuel is also fine,
5. All APRC settings were turned off, inluding QS,ABS and Traction control
6. This issue only starts to happen when the bike is hot
:(

FERROUS
05-04-2019, 06:27 AM
Thank you for your response

1. Yes I do have diagnostic cables, no issues or errors detected.
2. Injectrors, fuel lines and pump are all clean and tested.
3. Map is also matching the exhaust
4. Fuel is also fine,
5. All APRC settings were turned off, inluding QS,ABS and Traction control
6. This issue only starts to happen when the bike is hot
:(

havent read all the thread but in reference to No6 have you checked the crankshaft sensor?

With temperature the resistance of the coil can go very high causing errors.

Also for 09-14 models keep in mind that at 10.000rpm the air intake manifolds change within the air box

Nevertheless, maybe a dyno check will show where the problem is

SlamDunK
05-04-2019, 10:02 PM
Well, fuck knows......
Maybe start with the basics.
Fuel, even though it's been looked at.
Spark (Plugs/coilpacks), are they corroded, eroded or fouled?
Not sure how you'd check the coils?
Battery and generator voltages.
General wiring check, look for damage or strain, clean neg to frame/engine block.
After that lot's ticked off it's on to sensors.....
Maybe as Ferrous mentioned, something like the crank sensor is misbehaving.
Although I'd think the system would report it if out of spec.

Secondly, I'd connect diag when cold, write down values given for all parameters and do the same when hot.
See if you can find any erroneous numbers pointing to a specific item.

It sounds like I'm shooting in the dark, because I am.
As a home gamer this is the way I'd go about fault finding if it was my bike.