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RSV4_Dave
06-27-2015, 05:21 PM
Firstly, I'm new to the forum (and indeed to aprilia ownership!) so hello! I bought a 2009 RSV4 Factory about a month ago. I bought it privately from a bloke who hadn't ridden the bike for about 8 months as his son tragically died in a bike accident and he couldn't bring himself to ride his bike again. Since then I've had a few minor issues such as a binding read brake and leaking rocker gaskets. Those issues have been sorted, however, I've now got another issue which I'm hoping you knowledgable chaps can offer some advice on!

Basically the smoothness on and off the throttle isn't there, when you begin to open the throttle it doesn't come in smoothly, it's all or nothing and it doesn't feel as sharp and responsive as it should, you have to wind the throttle a lot more than you should have to, it just feels like it's running a little rougher than it should. I have a friend who also has an 09 RSV4F and I've ridden both bikes back to back and his is so much smoother and nicer to ride. I'm hoping it's as simple as a duff sensor or leaky air pipe but before I start prodding around i thought if ask on here. It's just had an oil/filter change at aprilia and curiously they put 5w40 oil in which I thought was for the later bikes, and filled the oil right up to the top of the sight glass which I thought was a little high but there we go. The bike had new plugs last August too. It's a standard bike aside from an Austin racing pipe and I don't believe it's has the ECU fiddled with to suit, so that's another possible cause? I'm tempted to put the OEM pipe on to see if it makes a difference.

So, any ideas folks? :)

thanks in advance!

Dave

Proctologist
06-27-2015, 06:40 PM
Swapping out the exhaust systems will most likely not make a difference.

When was the last time the values were checked or adjusted?

marc.r1
06-27-2015, 07:39 PM
After much research on here i thought the older ones were on 15W50 and the newer ones were on the thinner oil after some internal changes. This throws a spanner into my thoughts as I am about to change oil on mine and was going to get Motul 300V 15W50.

RSV4_Dave
06-28-2015, 02:26 AM
Swapping out the exhaust systems will most likely not make a difference.

When was the last time the values were checked or adjusted?

Thanks for your reply. It had a full shim service last August after which it didn't do a single mile until I bought it a month ago. It had 9 shims changed at that time.

re oil, yeah the earlier ones are meant to have 15/50 in but when I queried it they say they now put 5/40 fully synth in all model years

mikef4uk
06-28-2015, 04:11 AM
A couple of things you could check
1) Is the exhaust butterfly opening/closing correctly (opening this at lower rpm's does make the engine run very lean)
2) Another member had similar to you and it turned out one of his lower injector connectors had been plugged into the upper set and vise versa after a valve service, I think this is only a mistake you could do on the front bank, the rears are too hard to cross

I dont think theres an easy way to check this either except with the wiring colours, or perhaps you could disconnect the fuel to the top injectors (there is a dry break connector on the side of the airbox) and see if it runs on 4 cylinders in the lower rpm (below 6000 rpm)

However, this would'nt find the fault if the lower cylinder injectors were swapped over

RSV4_Dave
06-28-2015, 04:14 AM
A couple of things you could check
1) Is the exhaust butterfly opening/closing correctly (opening this at lower rpm's does make the engine run very lean)
2) Another member had similar to you and it turned out one of his lower injector connectors had been plugged into the upper set and vise versa after a valve service, I think this is only a mistake you could do on the front bank, the rears are too hard to cross

Thanks Mike. How do I test those two things? Should I disconnect the exhaust butterfly to see if it runs better? Or is there some other way?

Are the injector connectors labelled or is it a case of swapping them over and seeing if it makes a difference?

mikef4uk
06-28-2015, 04:15 AM
Just altered the previous post!

mikef4uk
06-28-2015, 04:16 AM
I can email you a wiring diagram if you want? just pm me your email

mikef4uk
06-28-2015, 04:33 AM
Injector plugs should be
Cyl1 Black
Cyl2 Brown
Cyl3 Green
Cyl4 Grey

283508

RSV4_Dave
06-28-2015, 04:34 AM
You're very kind, thank you. I'll drop you a pm

ncp
06-28-2015, 02:46 PM
Hi Guys.
If the injectors are plugged the wrong way around there would be a very noticeable dip around 7k when the upper injectors come into effect. One very noticeable thing in both smoothness and performance assuming that everything else is in place is the early fuel maps. The original ones are very on or off compared to the updated maps. Regarding oil, 2009/2010 are supposed to have 15w50 oil. Later APRC models onwards had small internal changes to the oil ways and switched to a 5w40 to suit. I did once try the thinner oil in my 2010, but immediately took it out as it did seem to lose a little of its smoothness too. I just wasn't confident if the temperatures would rise too high as they already run pretty hot. (Oil loses viscosity with higher temperatures.)

RSV4_Dave
06-28-2015, 02:56 PM
Hi Guys.
If the injectors are plugged the wrong way around there would be a very noticeable dip around 7k when the upper injectors come into effect. One very noticeable thing in both smoothness and performance assuming that everything else is in place is the early fuel maps. The original ones are very on or off compared to the updated maps. Regarding oil, 2009/2010 are supposed to have 15w50 oil. Later APRC models onwards had small internal changes to the oil ways and switched to a 5w40 to suit. I did once try the thinner oil in my 2010, but immediately took it out as it did seem to lose a little of its smoothness too. I just wasn't confident if the temperatures would rise too high as they already run pretty hot. (Oil loses viscosity with higher temperatures.)

Thanks. According to the paperwork, new software was downloaded to the bike last August but I've no idea if this included the fuel maps. I'll get s copy of guzzidiag and find out what map is in it. That said, when I first got it I felt it was smoother than it is now, I think, which makes me think it's a fault. There's no dip at 7k so maybe it's not the injectors.

Will i I do any damage running the thinner oil? It was Verwood Aprilia who told me that all years now run it but I'm concerned now that they could be wrong.

ncp
06-28-2015, 03:16 PM
Verwoerd are wrong in my opinion and only saying that to save embarrassment and having to do another oil change for you for free. Not sure as to whether it would cause any damage, but it will certainly sound a lot noisier than normal and they ain't the quietist of engines anyway.
As for the roughness, it could just be a partially blocked injector from lack of use. Try a fuel cleaner and a good run. I take it that when the valve clearances were done, they also balanced the injectors too? Sounds obvious, but most UK dealers aren't worth crap!

RSV4_Dave
06-28-2015, 04:44 PM
No idea if they balanced the injectors, it's not listed so I'd assume not! They put 5/40 in it last August too. I did run some Redex through it but not specific injector cleaner. I've done about 800 miles on it now so I'd have hoped it'd have cleared but I'll run some more through :)

RSV4_Dave
07-04-2015, 06:59 AM
Right, I've checked a few things and would be interested in opinions:

1) tested oil level when warm as detailed in the manual - level is right at the top with just a bubble of air showing.
2) used guzzidiag to redo the throttle and handle learning in case it was a simple software issue. No change.
3) checked the exhaust valve - it whirs on ignition on but does not move. I removed the end can and checked it with engine off and running in neutral - stays OPEN at all times (at least that's how it looks, looks like a flat disc and is horizontal)
4) refitted OEM end can. Hard to say if it felt different, certainly quieter! Lol

any thoughts? I'm particularly interested re the exhaust valve as this could well be the reason for the symptoms could it not?

cheers

Dave

mikef4uk
07-05-2015, 04:45 PM
Didn't some one say exhaust valve ;)

I pissed about with my 2011 bike whilst fitted with a PCV and an autotune with the std map loaded, the autotune had already added a fair bit of fuel with the exhaust valve operating correctly, I then removed the cables to leave the valve open all the time, on the next ride the autotune added about 12-15% extra fuel in those area's where the valve was previously closed.

I guess what I am saying is with the valve open and no extra fueling your bike will be running weak, and a weak mixture can give poor/abrupt throttle control

RSV4_Dave
07-06-2015, 12:25 PM
Cheers Mike. I plan to switch to a race Ecu so hopefully that'll sort it?

mikef4uk
07-06-2015, 01:32 PM
Should do yes, you can unplug and remove the exhaust valve servo when you fit the race Ecu and it won't put an error up.

Aprilia seem to say that you can fit slip on with the std Ecu, but, if you go for a full system you must fit the race Ecu, to be honest the only real difference between slip on and full system is the exhaust valve goes with the full system

Eizoz_RSV4
07-09-2015, 04:11 AM
Injector plugs should be
Cyl1 Black
Cyl2 Brown
Cyl3 Green
Cyl4 Grey

283508

could you send me these too please? i want to clear the wire mess i currently have under the tank with all the cables plus teh cables of the Rapidbike and could really do with these diagrams so taht i dno't connect them back wrongly xD

i'll pm you my email if that's ok? thanks!