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AbuDanger
06-23-2015, 10:55 PM
Last fall I had some issues with my speedometer acting erradicly, jumping all over the place no matter what speed I was going. This was after 2 days of riding in heavy rain on a trip. By the time I got home it had started acting normal. I inspected the sensor, and found a small crack in the rubber seal where the wires go into the housing. I cleaned it up, and sealed it with some liquid rubber, and things seemed to work fine, untill last week.
On my ride to work on Thursday I noticed that the speedo was not working. It had rained the night before, but I keep in garaged over night so I don't think that was the issue. Just as I was pulling into work it started working agian. It rained around noon, but the speedo worked fine on the ride home, so I don't thing it is a water intrusion issue. On Friday everything was normal, but then on Monday it didn't work when I left home but started to again just before I got to the office. Everything worked fine on the ride home. Then on Tuesday it did the same thing, starting to work just before I got to work. On the ride home I took an extra long way and it never started working.

At one point I pulled over, and shut it down just to see if perhaps re-starting would get it working. When I went to restart it did not want to start. When it finally did start the clock changed to the EFI diagnositic screen and said "1" so I cut my long ride short and headed home.
I looked it up and found that 1 is the kill switch position indicator, so it wasn't really telling me anything. It was odd that it didn't want to start, and the EFI light never came on, just the clock changing to the diagnositic screen. I don't think that this is related to my speedo issue, just a wierd gremiln thing that it seems like the Capo does every once in a while.

to make a short story long I pulled the tank and found the sensor wires to test them. the voltages between them seemed good, but when I rotated the wheel voltage would drop, down to about 2, but not to 0 as I had read it should. Also, it did not stay down for "two seconds" it was almost instantly back up.

I will mess with it again tomorrow, and note the actuall numbers, as I know someone will ask for that.
Is my speed sensor dead, or is it somehting else?
Thanks so much for your help.

Capoandrew
06-24-2015, 03:11 AM
Speedo Sensors are well known to go up shit on the Capo. Your voltages going up and down suggest the wrong brake bolts but then again if it was working previously it can't be that. Are they dirty at all? (Not sure if this makes any difference, but it's cheaper cleaning bolts than replacing a sensor hey!)

If it is the sensor and it sounds like it to me, then you can either get the genuine one (costs a bomb) or utilise another Aprilia sensor if you are a bit handy. Tuono fit from memory, but one of the other boffins can probably give you a better idea on this.

Do a search for replacement sensors, there is a bucket load of info about replacement, alternative and modified sensors.
Good luck and let us know the end result.

haga lout
06-24-2015, 04:12 AM
Gen 1 tuono/ Millie work

nerald
06-24-2015, 05:03 AM
Gen 1 tuono/ Millie work
I can confirm that they do work. The wire angle (entry into the sensor)isn't the same but this is easily worked around. They are about 20% less money than a capo sensor if bought new.

Precis
06-24-2015, 08:21 AM
Doesn't a VW/Audi unit also fit & work?

Saffa Gaz
06-24-2015, 09:21 AM
I'm still waiting for Moto Abruzzo's genius solution that allows you just to replace the sensor (at 13 a pop!)

AbuDanger
06-24-2015, 11:12 AM
Does it matter that it is a mark 1 (03) or are all the speed sensors the same?

haga lout
06-24-2015, 11:40 AM
Does it matter that it is a mark 1 (03) or are all the speed sensors the same?

Needs to be a mk1 tuono or Millie the one with one big headlight not the later with two seperate headlights

AbuDanger
06-24-2015, 09:05 PM
Ok here are the actual readings from the volt meter:
Blue/orange to Green/Purple 7.88
Blue/orange to grey/white 10.30


Connected to blue/orange and grey/white rotating the wheel falls a varying number, usually around 6 or 8, if I move it very slowly occasionally as low as 3, and I have seen 1, but never for more than a split second and never all the way to 0.
I had the brakes (pads) changed (front and rear) about a week before it started acting up. The bolts all look clean, and it worked fine for a week (I ride every day that it's not raining when it's time to leave).
I have a milie/tuono sensor from AF1 in my cart. Hoping that someone can confirm my suspicion that this one is dead.

Saffa Gaz
06-25-2015, 03:37 AM
Check the connector 1st. I had similar problem but found the female pin inside the connector was slayed and causing intermitant signals when riding. To find the connector trace the wire from the sensor, It should be on the right side of the bike near the frame.

Stanleybobly
06-25-2015, 03:50 AM
Doesn't a VW/Audi unit also fit & work?

Needle motor is from a Audi TT

http://fs1.directupload.net/images/150411/ff3ttdxt.png

haga lout
06-25-2015, 04:10 AM
Si
Ok here are the actual readings from the volt meter:
Blue/orange to Green/Purple 7.88
Blue/orange to grey/white 10.30


Connected to blue/orange and grey/white rotating the wheel falls a varying number, usually around 6 or 8, if I move it very slowly occasionally as low as 3, and I have seen 1, but never for more than a split second and never all the way to 0.
I had the brakes (pads) changed (front and rear) about a week before it started acting up. The bolts all look clean, and it worked fine for a week (I ride every day that it's not raining when it's time to leave).
I have a milie/tuono sensor from AF1 in my cart. Hoping that someone can confirm my suspicion that this one is dead.

If you have had rear pads changed and it's now playing up get back to dealer and tell them they have knackerd your senior they will of been twisting the rear mount about when fitting rear pads and have damaged the sencor

beasthonda
06-25-2015, 09:05 AM
I would also check the entire length of the cable that runs under the cover on the swing arm.
When I replaced my speedo sensor for this Acewell one I found the original outer cable had split and the inner cable was not in the best shape.
http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/showthread.php?295248-Speedo-sensor-alternative&highlight=alternative+speedo+sensor
My original one was still working but like many on this forum looking for cheap plug and play alternative.
This came close

AbuDanger
06-25-2015, 05:07 PM
Thanks beatshonda by the time I pay shipping from the UK I would be right at the same price as the Mille sensor from AF1. I orderd it last night, I figured that for $60 it was worth getting it on the way.
I plan to go over the old one with a fine tooth comb when I pull it out.
I will certainly take a look at the connectors as well.
While they might have speed up its demise I don't feel like the brake job was the cause of failure. It had already more or less failed once and I managed to resurect it with black silicone.

Capoandrew
06-26-2015, 02:06 AM
What sort of black silicon did you use? Engine gasket goo is ok, but house hold silicon isn't. It eats the wire insulation in time.
The pro electrical guys use a potting paste.

AbuDanger
06-28-2015, 01:15 PM
Capoandrew I actually used something called liquid-electrical tape. It paints on with a consistsncy of rubber-cement, and dries to a semi hard, but flexable finish. I hope it doesn't eat wire insulation....
The millie sensor came in the mail yesterday while I was camping. Hoping to fit it this afternoon.

AbuDanger
06-28-2015, 08:12 PM
I can confirm that they do work. The wire angle (entry into the sensor)isn't the same but this is easily worked around. They are about 20% less money than a capo sensor if bought new.

So I didn't actually get to it today, here's hoping I can tomorrow.
Nearld, just so I don't waste time trying to solve a problem that I don't need to what did you do about the wire entry angle? Just loop it around?

nerald
06-29-2015, 05:21 AM
I didn't secure the sensor via the bolt hole. I used the original bolt and washer to secure it via the " lip" around the edge of the sensor. It just needs to hold it down so to speak. Put a dab of loctite on the bolt if concerned. You will understand when you come to fit.

AbuDanger
07-03-2015, 08:00 AM
Thanks everyone for your help. The Millie sensor worked great. I compared voltage readings before I did the full replacement, and confirmed that my old sensor was dead.
There is enought wire that it could be looped around, but it looks a bit jankey. I opted for nerld's solution of a washer that goes over the rim of the sensor. All in all, probably as close to a "plug and play" solution as we can hope for.