View Full Version : Forkin' hell

03-31-2003, 08:31 AM
I know the front end on the 96 model is a little on the soft side but i've decided that mine are way too soft and are in need of new oil at the very least. Haven't got a clue how to do it. I'll be having them sorted properly later in the year by MH Suspension so this will be just a quick fix.

A very kind fellow forum dude is sending me a manual but in the meantime, can anyone give me some brief instructions and recommend the best oil to use. Can they be firmed up a bit by using a heavier grade oil.

Thanks for any help you can give. .


03-31-2003, 04:44 PM

Forkin ' hell :rollin:

04-01-2003, 09:26 AM
420cc per leg. SAE 5w to SAE 20w. This is for the early forks(only one fork spring and that is in the left leg) Maxton fit cbr cartriges into these forks.

07-14-2003, 10:04 AM
i can understand your problem i recently wrecked my damping leg internals somehow by hitting a blind open drain at speed and i also wanted to change the oil as i fixed it, but for some reason the drain plug is obscured by the axle so that means holding the bike in a front stand and removing the wheel. the drain plug also holds the internals in so once the plug is removed you can undo the adjuster at the top and lift it out if you want to completely get all the oil out but this isnt half way through i asume the other leg is the same method but my one is broken so i cant fiddle with it but long story short it really is such a pain in the arse its not really worth it if you are going to have them sorted professionaly but the forks really are a bit crap arnt they over damped and undersprung i think mine worked best when the preload was a turn off max and the compression was 7 or 8 clicks off max but i could never get it good for the road so fed up ive sent them off to maxton to get sorted

07-14-2003, 10:17 AM
HI randomrider.
Can you let me know how the forks go when you get them back from maxton, dont they put new adjusters and eveything on?? How much for the conversion?

07-15-2003, 08:02 AM
HI, i was quoted about 430 which includes junking all the internals in both legs and making them into fully adjustable ones with preload and rebound adjusters on the top of both legs and the compression adjuster at the bottom and springing in both legs so the ride im informed would be better than th 98' version and im told they talor the springs to your weight and needs unfortunatly im going to have to put the mods on the back burner for a while because of cashflow problems but i have heard nothing but praise for the work thats why i wanted to get it done so unfortunatly they are just going to be fixed for the moment but their number is 01928 740531 well worth giving a ring if only for advice anyway just thought id let you know

Bob Murray
07-15-2003, 03:22 PM
I have just had Clive Horton at Racing Lines Derby replace seals and bushes in mine. But on replacement I have gone for a thicker grade of oil, SAE 20.
Did a trackday at Cadwell on Monday and felt perfect.
Just one ring showing on the spring fork, and three clicks off max on the other side.
If its of interest.

07-15-2003, 03:59 PM
Thanks Bob. I'll give that a try. Really good of you to reply to the topic.

07-16-2003, 03:19 AM
Racetech (tek?) do really good replacement valves with adjustable shim-stacks for both cartridge and normal forks... I think the 98 RS has cartridge forks - so you can just get a replacement valve - pre 98 are not, but you can get something called an 'emulator' which does the job. Although a bit tricky you can fit both of these yourself and save a packet.

07-16-2003, 03:37 AM
Hi Keean
Can you give me more info bout the emulator type??
Do you do away with the 1 leg for rebound and 1 for damping etc?
Do you get new adjusters?
How much?

07-16-2003, 09:44 AM
Here's the link to racetech

www.racetech.com/shopping...age=street (http://www.racetech.com/shopping/shopdisplayproducts.asp?id=8&subcat=6&cat=Gold+Valve+Cartridge+Emulators&L2=Forks&L3=Fork+Valving&L4=Gold+Valve+Cartridge+Emulators&showPage=street)

if you google for "racetech gold emulator" you will find loads of reviews...

As far as I understand it you loose all external adjustments on your forks when you fit the emulator... so you have to strip the forks to adjust.

07-16-2003, 09:51 AM
How does a Race Tech Emulator work and why is it so good?

Some people have asked if Emulators really emulate something. Well, the full name of these wonderful devices, brought to the market in 1993 by Race Tech's owner/founder Paul Thede, is Race Tech Cartridge Emulators. So yes, they do emulate something: Cartridge forks.

RT (Race Tech) Emulators are little devices that use a single shim to control the compression damping of the fork. The shim sits on top of a machined brass housing that is placed between the damper rod and the fork spring. When the forks are compressed, oil is forced up the damper rod and toward the Emulator. Oil is then forced through a small orifice on top of the Emulator. This orifice provides the LSD. When the velocity increases, the shim opens to let oil pass through. This shim controls HSD. As the forks are rebounding, a check valve underneath the body of the Emulator opens to let oil pass back thought the Damper Rod. The Emulator does nothing to affect the rebound damping characteristics of the forks.

Changes to the compression damping are made with changing the preload on the valve spring. As you increase the preload you increase both the LSD and HSD although, it will have more of an effect on LSD. Decreasing the preload on the valve spring will decrease both the LSD and HSD and again, it will have more of an effect on the LSD. Changes to rebound damping are made with a change in fork oil weight. If you desire more rebound damping, increase the fork oil weight. If reduced rebound damping is desired, decrease the fork oil weight. Be aware that changing the oil weight will also have an effect on compression damping.

The single greatest advantage to the addition of the RT Emulator is the ability of it to provide a linear damping curve. Put simply, your damping rod forks will now work like cartridge forks. What does this mean to you? Your damper rod forks can be tuned to provide increased LSD and decreased HSD. Your bike will dive less under braking, and it will soak up the nastiest of bumps and expansion joints. You will be riding down the highway with more comfort, and riding your favorite back roads with greater speed and a greater margin of safety. Are they really that good you ask? Yes they are! As many have said, "the best $140 you can spend on your bike."